MDF vs Hardwood shaker doors and how I build my kitchen cabinets
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- In this weeks exciting episode I showcase the differences between making hardwood shaker style doors vs MDF shakers style doors and show how I build my kitchen cabinets
#workshop #carpentry #cabinetmaking #joinery #bespokejoinery
Thanks for another interesting video. Not sure what it is but we do much the same kinda work but I still enjoy seeing how others go about it! - Same name too!!
Wow, strong name💪🏻 in our world there is always more than one way to skin a cat! In my eyes TH-cam is all about learning and sharing.
Thanks for watching.
great channel , full of info ! thank you
Thanks for checking it out ❤
Hi , just came across your channel and enjoyed the video. I run a small Joinery workshop in East Sussex and make my kitchen cupboard doors in the same way. Regarding clamps and clamping times, I just glue the doors, clamp them up and then fire an 18g pin through both sides of the domino joint and then unclamp them.. I've never had a single door fail or even joint open up. Just my way of doing it. I have a few panel clamps which I got from Wurths and and also Scott and Sargant. They are excellant because they give you around 8" of pressure on the width rather than about 2 inches with sash clamps.
I've actually moved away from Tulipwood for most of my kitchen doors etc because I've found it's not as stable as it use to be 20+yrs ago. Just ripping Tulipwood down on a rip saw and both pieces move whereas years ago that never happend. I now use European steamed beech, far harder so no chance of damaging pieces and more stable in my opinion. Lots of ways of doing a job ,so just my input. All the best Ade.
Love it mate. Very interesting idea about the nailer into a domino. I use the 18g air nailer loads for stuff but never thought of that!
Yeah I here you on tulip. Luckily I select what I buy so don’t get anything to close to the pith.
I think next kitchen I will use something else as I enjoy the change! I have always wanted to do one in sapele as I really love the look when sprayed! And I can get sapele faced boards easily enough for the panels.
Do you get much grain come through when painting the steamed beech?
Thanks so much for watching, matt
@@Wattsjoinerybarn Hi Matt, European Steamed Beech is harder than Tulipwood so you don't see the grain through the paint like you can with Tulipwood where the growth rings can be denser and the adjacent ring softer so you sand away the softer grain which you don't get with beech. They also do a paint grade Steamed Beech which is cheaper. Only downside I can see is the hinge borer needs to be sharp and you need to pilot drill for Mag catches etc if you go down the butt hinge route rather than Blum/Grass hinges. Sapele can have fab grain, pretty stable too. I use it mostly for Doors,windows but you can use it for a nice effect in a kitchen. You can also get paint grade Maple too which is a tad softer than Beech but still stable, a lot of people use for making kitchens. There are a few different options out there and Tulipwood is falling down the list for me..
All the best Ade 😁🙂
I hear you with the tulip. First lot I did this year was the first for a few years. It was nice to work with again as light and machines easy but I noticed it needed more care when finishing as was softer than before plus a few sprung a bit. On the whole it’s good tho. I just did some sapele doors and it’s Tempe first time I sprayed them. The grain pattern was lovely through the paint and I get it a good cost so I think it’s a no brainer for my next one. My timber merchants do German steemed beech so I will cost that too!.
Thanks again
@@Wattsjoinerybarn The German Steamed Beech is usually "Polmeyer" if I remember correctly. If you're going to spray it you can save a bit of money on getting the paint grade. I had some about 3 weeks ago and it was good, very few defects to speak off, just some colour streaking,spalting but no biggie. Worth getting a price for both and see what is best for you. Let me know what you think of it.
My rep came in today, nice guy and very knowledgable. He was a fully qualified machinish prior to repping. Gave me a sample of "Frake Noir" which is a member of the Iroko family which they heat treat which makes it similar to Accoya so it is uber stable. Looks like it might compete directly with Accoya for external use so I'll try that sometime soon.
I have seen that frake noir (still can’t believe they called it that!😂) as cladding down the road from me. It actually looks nice unpainted so would compete with acoya there.
Probably not as nasty as accoya either all tho it is good stuff!
Yeah I will give that beech a price up. I like the idea of sapele tho as sapele faced boards aren’t too expensive where I get my sheets from!
Where abouts are you based ?
Love the work, is there any chance of getting more info on how to measure cabinets from face frames? Im a novice but hoping to build my own face frame kitchen. Thank you
@JmackL thanks for saying mate, PM me on instagram any questions and I can answer or arrange a call.
Thanks for watching
Wow, strong name💪🏻 in our world there is always more than one way to skin a cat! In my eyes TH-cam is all about learning and sharing.
Thanks for watching.