Looking good! And there are "light tension" hood springs out there specifically for fiberglass Mustang hoods. Cobranda has them. My $0.02: if I was going to a fiberglass hood I'd ditch the springs altogether and just stick with the hood prop.
I run a full fiberglass hood in my 66. During a mustang day show, Some guy came up to me and asked if I wanted a fiberglass hood for $100. What a steal. Anyway, I run no springs on the hinges and use a little prop rod. There is a prop rod kit for the fibergalss hoods. Ive seen others make a cool little chain link that hooks over the spring location when the hood is opened. Im cheap so I just bring a litttle stick with me at all times! Keep it up man!
I have an original 67 Shelby Shelby GT 500. The hoods were all hand laid up fiberglass. Yes, Shelby ran a lighter spring tension for glass hoods. Check out Tony Branda for the hood springs. Too much tension will ruin the hood. Hope this helps, take your time! Happy Thanksgiving and Holidays to everyone.!
Looks great. Working with fiberglass is a PITA if you need to cut/trim it. Maybe pull both fenders outward, then square the hood up against the cowl. Then pull the fenders back in after you are square. Nice seeing the first project of the winter season!
Looks good, I say keep the hood black. Tweaking the hood/hinges/alignment is a nightmare. I kept the stock springs on my steel framed fiberglass hood, seems to work fine.
Yeah, I had to get some lighter springs, full fiberglass hood. Actually, I'm not happy with the hood, but the timing of everything is forcing some me to make certain decisions. :)
Hey Andy, love your videos and this definitely isn’t my first comment on them, but I had a question. Did your car ever have front or rear torque boxes added? Currently in the early stages of a restoration and seeing if they’re completely necessary for a weekend cruise with around 300 WHP. Thank!
None of my cars came with them from the factory (because it wasn’t a standard part until 1968) and none of them had them installed from a previous owner. However, I am rectifying that on this car, so stay tuned! I think the benefit of torque boxes are less about the power output and more about how you plan to drive it. If it is a trailer Queen or it’s only used for putting to the grocery store, the added rigidity will not likely be felt. But if you plan to take the car out for some spirited driving, these will be a must have in tightening up the chassis so the car will act as desired. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel Appreciate that. I know you've done lots of other chassis mods, but I wasn't sure if you had torque boxes. I think long term torque boxes will be added, but currently just exclude them in favor of "bolt on" chassis stiffening. Thanks!
Andy, I can’t find this style hood on their website so could you please post the part no? Also is the structure made of steel of fiberglass and is the underside smooth or rough? Thanks
Unfortunately they don't put up most of their fiberglass parts, so you'll just have to call Bill and tell him what you're looking for. :) This hood is all fiberglass, and most of it is smooth.
Other than weight why go with a China hood rather than oem? Was the original hood rusted and bondo underneath? Honestly I think the old one looks better than am. I know body lines and stuff will never fit right but I think oem will fit better and last longer in the long run. Just curious why?
Copy that been there too many times lol. I have had best luck with national parts depot. Even though their parts are from Taiwan sometimes the tooling is excellent. But all is about experimentation
Maier Racing. I've never purchased or messed with a Fiber Glass hood, so I have nothing to compare my experiences to. For all I know, this is how life is with those hoods. :)
I don’t get this one Andy . The steel hood looked really good. Does it look like ass in person or something? I just don’t understand replacing a perfectly good hood. I know it’s personal preference but I think hoodie pins are kind of ghetto.
Apologies, my comment about hood pins was a little harsh. I also read in another comment. You need to do away with the hood latch for your new valance, so makes sense in your case.
Hey there, just catching up, since my subscription dropped somehow.. Sorry for all the "opinionated" comments you've endured on this elective job here. If you've got the energy, to work thru the install issues, to yer own satisfaction or fatigue position, then to each his own.. I watched your apron video, I'm adding GT350 apron myself, and plan to fabricate a custom metal brace to support the factory hood latch mechanism... Keep at it brother..
Shelby American made their own 'glass parts in-house or shopped them out to a local shop. The mold was made using an OEM steel hood. Remember, the cars they were installing on them were new, not nearly 60 years old with bodies which - even if original and never dinged - have distorted over time. Even back then the fitment of the fiberglass was dodgy and required some "massaging", and they weren't particularly concerned with perfect, symmetrical gaps on what were basically disposable race cars. Any fiberglass parts today are going to take some work to get the kind of fit you'd expect from OEM parts. It's achievable, but it takes a lot of fussing and fiddling. There's no "plug and play" option! It's going to look great when it's all done though. BTW my friend did this hood job on his 65 a couple of years ago. Once he got the hood basically where he wanted it he took the front fenders off and reattached them relative to the hood gaps. Looks OEM now. BTW the fiberglass hood he got weighed 26lbs. I don't think it was from Maier though.
Not going to lie Andy.......I liked the other one better. But you do you brother. Much respect.
Yeah, this fiber glass hood is not great.
Winter projects underway!
Lots of swear words have been saved for this winter. :)
This is life with the fiberglass hoods. The only way I was able to dial mine in was with the CVF racing hinges and its still not perfect, haha.
Yeah, I'm starting to realize that. :)
Looking good! And there are "light tension" hood springs out there specifically for fiberglass Mustang hoods. Cobranda has them.
My $0.02: if I was going to a fiberglass hood I'd ditch the springs altogether and just stick with the hood prop.
Yeah, I have since picked up some springs, we're good. :)
I run a full fiberglass hood in my 66. During a mustang day show, Some guy came up to me and asked if I wanted a fiberglass hood for $100. What a steal. Anyway, I run no springs on the hinges and use a little prop rod. There is a prop rod kit for the fibergalss hoods. Ive seen others make a cool little chain link that hooks over the spring location when the hood is opened. Im cheap so I just bring a litttle stick with me at all times!
Keep it up man!
I have since found some springs designed for the fiberglass hood, so it's not an issue now. Too bad the hood is not great. Oh well. :)
I have an original 67 Shelby Shelby GT 500. The hoods were all hand laid up fiberglass. Yes, Shelby ran a lighter spring tension for glass hoods. Check out Tony Branda for the hood springs. Too much tension will ruin the hood.
Hope this helps, take your time!
Happy Thanksgiving and Holidays to everyone.!
Looks great. Working with fiberglass is a PITA if you need to cut/trim it. Maybe pull both fenders outward, then square the hood up against the cowl. Then pull the fenders back in after you are square. Nice seeing the first project of the winter season!
Yeah, this hood is not great, but there are some advantages with the new hood, hopefully it pays off. :)
hello andy, hey i enjoy watching your vids.. just want to say the engine bay look awesome, im currently working on a 67 mustang..good times
Very cool!
Looks good, I say keep the hood black. Tweaking the hood/hinges/alignment is a nightmare. I kept the stock springs on my steel framed fiberglass hood, seems to work fine.
Yeah, I had to get some lighter springs, full fiberglass hood. Actually, I'm not happy with the hood, but the timing of everything is forcing some me to make certain decisions. :)
Put a seat belt end, the latch, contact to the spring and just pull the spring.
What?
Keep your hood latch on. Its a extra safety thing just in case you forget to attach the pins.
Nan, it won't work with the new lower valance. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel so your next step is a front R.
Hey Andy, love your videos and this definitely isn’t my first comment on them, but I had a question.
Did your car ever have front or rear torque boxes added? Currently in the early stages of a restoration and seeing if they’re completely necessary for a weekend cruise with around 300 WHP.
Thank!
None of my cars came with them from the factory (because it wasn’t a standard part until 1968) and none of them had them installed from a previous owner. However, I am rectifying that on this car, so stay tuned!
I think the benefit of torque boxes are less about the power output and more about how you plan to drive it. If it is a trailer Queen or it’s only used for putting to the grocery store, the added rigidity will not likely be felt. But if you plan to take the car out for some spirited driving, these will be a must have in tightening up the chassis so the car will act as desired. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel Appreciate that. I know you've done lots of other chassis mods, but I wasn't sure if you had torque boxes. I think long term torque boxes will be added, but currently just exclude them in favor of "bolt on" chassis stiffening.
Thanks!
Andy, I can’t find this style hood on their website so could you please post the part no? Also is the structure made of steel of fiberglass and is the underside smooth or rough? Thanks
Unfortunately they don't put up most of their fiberglass parts, so you'll just have to call Bill and tell him what you're looking for. :)
This hood is all fiberglass, and most of it is smooth.
Got it. Thx
How does the air cleaner fit with this hood compared to old one?
Surprisingly there's about the same amount of space, so I don't need to adjust the filter height. :)
Do you still have that stock steering wheel? If so could I buy it
Sorry Brotha, that thing is long gone. :)
Other than weight why go with a China hood rather than oem? Was the original hood rusted and bondo underneath? Honestly I think the old one looks better than am. I know body lines and stuff will never fit right but I think oem will fit better and last longer in the long run. Just curious why?
List is long, and I'm not 100% happy with the new hood, but here we are.
Copy that been there too many times lol. I have had best luck with national parts depot. Even though their parts are from Taiwan sometimes the tooling is excellent. But all is about experimentation
Are you gonna tell us where you got this hood and why you don’t like it?
Maier Racing. I've never purchased or messed with a Fiber Glass hood, so I have nothing to compare my experiences to. For all I know, this is how life is with those hoods. :)
Can I ask where did you get the hood ?
Maier Racing
I don’t get this one Andy . The steel hood looked really good. Does it look like ass in person or something? I just don’t understand replacing a perfectly good hood. I know it’s personal preference but I think hoodie pins are kind of ghetto.
Sounds like I won't be able to change your mind, so we'll leave it there. :)
Apologies, my comment about hood pins was a little harsh. I also read in another comment. You need to do away with the hood latch for your new valance, so makes sense in your case.
HDHS2 CJ pony parts light weight hood hinge
Yeah, I have since picked up some fiberglass hood springs. Thank you anyways! :)
Hey there, just catching up, since my subscription dropped somehow.. Sorry for all the "opinionated" comments you've endured on this elective job here.
If you've got the energy, to work thru the install issues, to yer own satisfaction or fatigue position, then to each his own.. I watched your apron video, I'm adding GT350 apron myself, and plan to fabricate a custom metal brace to support the factory hood latch mechanism... Keep at it brother..
I wish there was a decent hood latch option out there, but I'm not against hood pins either, so I'll be fine. Good luck with your build. :)
Weight difference?
Stock steel is around 50lbs. I havent weighed my own fiberglass hood but I can pick it up with one hand with ease. Im guessing around 15-20lbs
I did not weigh them (I wish I did), but there's a good 30 pounds diff between them. :)
Ship the old hood to me in California 😂
Pass.
@@AndyKruseChannel 😂
Can i have your old hood?
No
after market parts..
Yeah, I wish there was another way that didn't cost me a Kidney. :)
Shelby American made their own 'glass parts in-house or shopped them out to a local shop. The mold was made using an OEM steel hood. Remember, the cars they were installing on them were new, not nearly 60 years old with bodies which - even if original and never dinged - have distorted over time. Even back then the fitment of the fiberglass was dodgy and required some "massaging", and they weren't particularly concerned with perfect, symmetrical gaps on what were basically disposable race cars. Any fiberglass parts today are going to take some work to get the kind of fit you'd expect from OEM parts. It's achievable, but it takes a lot of fussing and fiddling. There's no "plug and play" option!
It's going to look great when it's all done though.
BTW my friend did this hood job on his 65 a couple of years ago. Once he got the hood basically where he wanted it he took the front fenders off and reattached them relative to the hood gaps. Looks OEM now. BTW the fiberglass hood he got weighed 26lbs. I don't think it was from Maier though.