Do you still have this boat? I have a question on this volvo model 2003. I recently purchased a vessel with this motor and I noticed that the anti siphon for the cooling system pisses like an outboard. I have never ever seen this. It runs into my bilge. I am assuming yours does the same thing? Not much info on this. Any help would be great. Thanks
Hi, I didn’t notice it not being flush. I think I would have noticed when I ran the razor blade over to clean the gasket surface. Check the shaft is in the correct place and that there is no dirt behind the back plate. Let us know how you get on…
Removing the pump is easy, it is the reverse of fitting it - which I show on the video around 5:02. The only thing to watch out for is any wires connected to any of the three retaining bolts, as on my boat, the electrics for everything were grounded through the engine and connected to that point.
I used a bit of copper plumbing tube and a vice to press the bearing on to the shaft. What I actually did was to press the first bearing on enough to get the spacer and the second bearing on, however once both the bearings were on I was struggling to push both the bearings to the correct position together. I ended up taking it to a friends garage and using his hydraulic press to get them in the correct position. Next time I would press the first bearing on and get that to the exact position, then add the spacer and the second bearing.
@@Gi1e5 Great, thanks... I just replaced the seals now...I had a small drip, so this should fix that. If not, I will replace the whole pump...found it for about $250, Johnson pump. You have access to some other good tools, which help. Good job on the video!
It's not clear in the video but it appears as though there is a gap between the two bearings? If that's the case is there a spacer between the two bearings?
The ‘smoke’ was steam, because of the seaweed blockage. The engine is now being cooled ok. There is still some light smoke when it starts, but after a run at high revs it is not noticeable.
Yes it didn’t start easily did it - but it wasn’t the governor spring - it was my starting procedure that was wrong.. These engines have a special method for starting when cold. You have to set the throttle open ( at least half, but I’ve found somewhere around 3/4 to be best) and then pull the stop handle (and push it back in) before starting. This supplies extra fuel by overriding the injection pumps governor, allowing the fuel injection ‘rack’ to go beyond the normal maximum fuel setting for cold starting. It works really well, and our engine always starts within 3 to 5 seconds even in very cold weather.
Epic fail! You never, ever, ever install a bearing in a housing by hammering on the shaft. That treatment puts loads on the bearing it was never designed to absorb. The bearing will fail!! Those bearings were meant to be installed by applying pressure to the outer shell and pressing it in.
@@PaudolphyGmail Hi. Yes you kinda sorta need a special tool which can be as simple as a piece of pipe who's diameter is slightly less than the outside dismeter of the bearing you are installing. A socket can often be used. The point is to apply pressure only to the outer race of the bearing. If the bearing fit in the housing isn't too tight, light hammer blows can be used to install the bearing. Make sure though that the bearing goes in straight. If light hammer blows are insufficient to seat the bearing then a arbor press or a hydraulic press are required.
The two bearings are separated by a spacer on the shaft, so pressing on the outer race would apply the exact same forces to both of the bearings as pressing on the shaft since the force would be transmitted through the shaft, the only difference being that the force on the upper bearing would be in the opposite direction. This happens because the force needed to move the lower bearing would be transmitted through the upper bearing to the shaft, then through the lower bearing to move the outer ring of that bearing. The two bearings are separated by a spacer only on the shaft so there is no other way of inserting this. I did check with Golden Arrow (our Volvo Penta dealers) to see if there was another method but this was the method they suggested. A year on and the bearings are still working fine.
Thank you very much, it`s really good job and contribution for the volvo owner`s.
Do you still have this boat? I have a question on this volvo model 2003. I recently purchased a vessel with this motor and I noticed that the anti siphon for the cooling system pisses like an outboard. I have never ever seen this. It runs into my bilge. I am assuming yours does the same thing? Not much info on this. Any help would be great. Thanks
Useful info. Thank you for making this
Did you have to drain the engine oil before removing the pump?
Nope
No, you do not need to drain the engine oil before removing the pump
Can i ask did your impeller sit flush? Im rebuilding mine and it seems to protrude past the face a fraction of a mm.
Hi, I didn’t notice it not being flush. I think I would have noticed when I ran the razor blade over to clean the gasket surface. Check the shaft is in the correct place and that there is no dirt behind the back plate. Let us know how you get on…
Anyone knows how to remove the pump ? Looks easy to put it back ? No trick ? Thanks
Removing the pump is easy, it is the reverse of fitting it - which I show on the video around 5:02. The only thing to watch out for is any wires connected to any of the three retaining bolts, as on my boat, the electrics for everything were grounded through the engine and connected to that point.
How do you get the bearings on the shaft? They dont just slide over it. Do you need a special tool for that?
I used a bit of copper plumbing tube and a vice to press the bearing on to the shaft. What I actually did was to press the first bearing on enough to get the spacer and the second bearing on, however once both the bearings were on I was struggling to push both the bearings to the correct position together. I ended up taking it to a friends garage and using his hydraulic press to get them in the correct position. Next time I would press the first bearing on and get that to the exact position, then add the spacer and the second bearing.
@@Gi1e5 Great, thanks... I just replaced the seals now...I had a small drip, so this should fix that. If not, I will replace the whole pump...found it for about $250, Johnson pump. You have access to some other good tools, which help. Good job on the video!
It's not clear in the video but it appears as though there is a gap between the two bearings? If that's the case is there a spacer between the two bearings?
No just an amount to allow oil to flow
well did it actually start to smoke less ?
The ‘smoke’ was steam, because of the seaweed blockage. The engine is now being cooled ok. There is still some light smoke when it starts, but after a run at high revs it is not noticeable.
What was the part # for the rebuild kit that you used? I have the same problem and need to do the same repair? Thx.
The kit was already on the boat, so I’m not sure how old it was. part number = 876756-9 Renoverningssats Overhault Kit.
@@Gi1e5 Great...Thanks!
somebody knows a bearing`s numbers code please.
You need to change you governor spring so the engine will start easier when cold.
Yes it didn’t start easily did it - but it wasn’t the governor spring - it was my starting procedure that was wrong.. These engines have a special method for starting when cold. You have to set the throttle open ( at least half, but I’ve found somewhere around 3/4 to be best) and then pull the stop handle (and push it back in) before starting.
This supplies extra fuel by overriding the injection pumps governor, allowing the fuel injection ‘rack’ to go beyond the normal maximum fuel setting for cold starting. It works really well, and our engine always starts within 3 to 5 seconds even in very cold weather.
Epic fail! You never, ever, ever install a bearing in a housing by hammering on the shaft. That treatment puts loads on the bearing it was never designed to absorb. The bearing will fail!! Those bearings were meant to be installed by applying pressure to the outer shell and pressing it in.
Thank you for the video and for the comment.
My question, how do you apply this pressure? Do you need a special tool?
Thanks
@@PaudolphyGmail Hi. Yes you kinda sorta need a special tool which can be as simple as a piece of pipe who's diameter is slightly less than the outside dismeter of the bearing you are installing. A socket can often be used. The point is to apply pressure only to the outer race of the bearing. If the bearing fit in the housing isn't too tight, light hammer blows can be used to install the bearing. Make sure though that the bearing goes in straight. If light hammer blows are insufficient to seat the bearing then a arbor press or a hydraulic press are required.
Hi, the problem here could be that since there are two bearings you can only do the procedure you explained in one of them, am I missing something?
The two bearings are separated by a spacer on the shaft, so pressing on the outer race would apply the exact same forces to both of the bearings as pressing on the shaft since the force would be transmitted through the shaft, the only difference being that the force on the upper bearing would be in the opposite direction. This happens because the force needed to move the lower bearing would be transmitted through the upper bearing to the shaft, then through the lower bearing to move the outer ring of that bearing. The two bearings are separated by a spacer only on the shaft so there is no other way of inserting this. I did check with Golden Arrow (our Volvo Penta dealers) to see if there was another method but this was the method they suggested. A year on and the bearings are still working fine.
@@Gi1e5 That’s what I thought, my local volvo penta dealers said your procedure was fine. Thanks.