Hey, fellow T8 owner here. I also sharpen as a side business and sometimes see knives with big chips like that one. I'm also a welder/fabricator by trade, so I'm also used to working with steel in a more crude manner than sharpening blades. I don't see the problem with removing the chip by grinding the edge flat, when the chip is cleared the flat edge should be nearly exactly where the new edge apex will form, since any angled grinding from this point on will in theory only take away away material behind the flat edge apex. In reality it might be wise to stop the flat grind, just a hair before the chip is cleared to leave some wiggly room for the final grind, as to not take away to much material, but this really shouldn't be a big problem, since we're likely speaking about saving +/- 0,1mm of the blade if normal care is taken to not overgrind when apexing the edge. You could consider just using a good quality metal file for removing this amount of material. Simply mount the knife in a bench wise, edge facing up, and take the file directly to the edge, filing flat along the edge apex, with the file just slightly horizontally skewed as to not hit the handle. This makes super quick work of removing steel frem the edge, gives great control, insures a flat/even edge profile and ofcause doesn't ruin the heat treat of the blade. You'll also avoid some unnecessary wear on your expensive diamond stones.
Why are you using 18 degrees per side for the debuting? Sorry if I missed something. Also since global knives are sharpened on one side why are you hitting both sides? Or doesn’t this matter at this point in the process? Thanks again. Really enjoy Your Content. I’m learning a lot
Oops. Sorry for the misunderstanding - I’m not deburring at 18 here. I use a steep angle to grind away the chip, and then continue grinding at 18 dps to se that as the new edge angle…
Hey, fellow T8 owner here. I also sharpen as a side business and sometimes see knives with big chips like that one.
I'm also a welder/fabricator by trade, so I'm also used to working with steel in a more crude manner than sharpening blades.
I don't see the problem with removing the chip by grinding the edge flat, when the chip is cleared the flat edge should be nearly exactly where the new edge apex will form, since any angled grinding from this point on will in theory only take away away material behind the flat edge apex. In reality it might be wise to stop the flat grind, just a hair before the chip is cleared to leave some wiggly room for the final grind, as to not take away to much material, but this really shouldn't be a big problem, since we're likely speaking about saving +/- 0,1mm of the blade if normal care is taken to not overgrind when apexing the edge.
You could consider just using a good quality metal file for removing this amount of material.
Simply mount the knife in a bench wise, edge facing up, and take the file directly to the edge, filing flat along the edge apex, with the file just slightly horizontally skewed as to not hit the handle.
This makes super quick work of removing steel frem the edge, gives great control, insures a flat/even edge profile and ofcause doesn't ruin the heat treat of the blade.
You'll also avoid some unnecessary wear on your expensive diamond stones.
Brilliant advice, thank you. I will pin this comment so that hopefully others can benefit too.
Why are you using 18 degrees per side for the debuting? Sorry if I missed something. Also since global knives are sharpened on one side why are you hitting both sides? Or doesn’t this matter at this point in the process? Thanks again. Really enjoy Your Content. I’m learning a lot
Deburring
Oops. Sorry for the misunderstanding - I’m not deburring at 18 here. I use a steep angle to grind away the chip, and then continue grinding at 18 dps to se that as the new edge angle…