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A Chrysler magnetic pickup, and an externally mounted GM HEI 4-pin module - interesting setup.

Thanks. When you connected the wires to Coil, you only connected one wire, the red one.

Dave, two questions: I see that you require the serial number of the distributor, ok, does this mean that I can’t swap this HEI kit from a 216 to 235 engine? I’ve observed that you didn’t connect the black wire that come from the switch, why?

Excellent video, But..... why go through all this trouble when you can buy a GM electronic ignition cheap at any auto parts store or cheaper from a junk yard? You also get an output for a tach.

Deve where does the ground wire on the HEI module go ?

Where can I order the kit. ? Phone. #. And. Address . Ok

Where do I get that advanced

BIG PROBLEM solver and does help a lot too. Pir it up with some Iridium plugs. World of positive results

And I forgot to add the most important part 2 for you guys that use oil bath air cleaner used dextran transmission fluid it filters better you will actually see more dirt in the bottom of the filter make sure you clean the filter out first with some good cleaning fluid solvent and you can overfill it just to tad it will help lubricate the valves.

For you guys that want to stay with points put a good set of Blue streak points and your distributor just to Gap and make sure you lube the distributor check the vacuum advance I have a good coil that doesn't put too much load on the factory Delco coil is a great coil. And don't use carbon wires their junk to modern-day wires that have what you would call wire wound wires. The Bosch where are a very excellent wire to use and I prefer spark plugs for that engine.

Bad ideal for the PC valve and supposed to use .010 brass to adjust the gap. The PCV valve will drink a lot of oil. The road draft tube have been modified to put the PC valve on top or on the side.

Are these kits still available?

Super nice 👍

How can I see the install of the pcv kit

is there a kit available for the late 60s chevy 327 cid v8, ? i want to use the stock distributor

How much is your kit?

I have a 51 international 6 volt positive ground. Do you have an HEI for my truck?

Thanks for all your work and clear explanations. I've been following your tech info for a couple of years and finally putting it to use.

You helped me sooo much, thank you!!!

i have a 1950 chevy with 235 6cyl its also been converted to 12 volt system ,,it has a ceramic ballast mounted on the firewall ,, now if i go to the electronic ignition and remove the breaker points ignition DO i unhook the wires from that ballast regulator or leave it hooked up ????? first time trying the pertronix

Can you do this without taking distributor off?

Hey bud was wondering how do I know 🤔 if my distributor is positive or negative ground . Cuz pertronix offers 2 such kits.. please ✊🏽 appreciate 🙏 cha.. . Besided that I know which kit to order thx bud 👍

Great video! I have a 1944 White scout car with a Auto Lite distributor IGC 4708. No one seems to make the electronic ignition for them. You should start making them. I sure you can sell them...

All these videos are so helpful

My next purchase for sure.

i am having trouble with getting oil up to the top of my 216 after i removed the distributor...any suggestions ?

Nice set up

Nice Video.. Stop by my Garage anytime Please..

Interesting video. I will be ordering this kit. Thanks

i have a 1950 chevy coupe with a 216 engine. the car is all original except that i converted the system to 12 volts. Am I going to need something like this? and if yes Why? Thank you so much!

That test stand is one of the best ideas on TH-cam!!

Sweet!

Deves on my 216 motor the Bakelite is facing the motor. What is that about, on all these videos I watch it facing away from the motor. Where it would be easy access. The motor runs fine, but not sure why it's sitting in that direction. Thank you if you could please answer me back, when you have a chance

Deves I'm looking to replace my points with an electronic ignition, on my 1953 3100series 216 motor. I was told I should clean up for a better ground the underside of the distributor hold down bracket, and the top surface of the motor where the hold down bracket, makes contact with the motor. My question is if I go to remove that hold bracket do I have to remove distributor. Or once I remove that half inch bolt does that slide out so I could clean it up. It looks to me like that vacuum bracket sits on top. Really don't want to disturb the distributor. Unless there's an easy way of doing it. I never removed it. Thank you for your help and your great videos you make.

You need to make more video's

Awesome kit and video, I need to get this.

Where are you located

Motor K23-6. ?

Chrysler used a brass feeler. Looseness is because of counter weight advance. Gell SHRINKS? Fine strand wires for the moving distributor? test lead wire works best.

How much timing are you using? When you set the distro in.. you set number one to the desired degree of timing? Or TDC? I can't find this answer.

What's the point of all that work. Most people don't drive their vintage car that often that warrants a electronic ignition. Lived with points condenser in my time. Once a year repair and vehicle was driven every day. Pertronix kit much simpler installation can be done with distributor installed less chance of screw up.

great video. do you make this setup for the 1933 stovebolt six ? would love this on my chevy standard

Thank you. I'll do it for a few months.

Freakin awesome video Deve. My name is Dev by the way. I own a 54 150 with a 235. I've always been a terrible at understanding and setting the ratio...on my own car or bike. However, for work I (use to do) set the ratio on huge boilers and thermal oxidizers running on natural gas. The NG comes in a 3" pipe and is set at about 10psi. It makes about 120mm BTU at high fire. I am comfortable with them and I know how they are doing as soon as I walk in the building. I set them by ear and by looking at the fire and then check them with instruments. I guess it's like the story about electricians not being able to fix their own house or mechanic fixing their wifes car...I'm that guy too. My 54 has been down for a few years while I've been dealing with an injury and losing everything I own, but I'm going to try to bring it back to running next spring. There's nothing wrong with it it's just been in my dads care and he let it sit instead of starting it once a week. It was perfect 5 years ago, but things happen. I know he pulled my points for some reason but I'll figure it out in the spring. Thanks so much for all the tech information you have put out there in various places. I only just discovered it but I'm sure I'll be referencing it a lot.

I'm searching for an advice, For a longtime,.I do this type of conversion from points to electronic using OEM parts, that because I fear the reliability of instant kits like the Pertronics and similar, I use the complete Chrysler setup , reluctor, pick up coil, ballast, coil and module and of course, it eliminate points but it is not a HEI performance ignition. my applications are agricultural, marine, stationary and automotive in 4,6 and 8 cyl applications, for the 4 cyl applications, I machine 4 spikes from the 8 cylinder reluctor. Actually, I'm converting an old Volvo 4 cylinders Bosch distributor from point style to electronic ignition, happily, Bosch produced distributors variants that are equipped with magnetic pick up coils that are used with the GM HEI module in a Fiat application so the conversion is feasible. The Bosch 4 cylinder distributor is very small ( 2 3/8" dia ) and the cap posts are very near from each other so I fear crossfires in damp weather conditions if I apply the full power that the HEI is capable As I can see about everywhere, the HEI module is about universal so it can be used about everywhere a module fails and the pick up coil in the distributor is magnetic style. My question is if somebody has used the HEI module with the point ignition original coil and ballast, is the performance is at least equal to the point style ignition and if it has a detrimental effect on the life of the module

I bought a chrome valve cover for my original 235 on my 55 Bel Air. I noticed radiator fluid coming out of the front bolt hole on the drivers side. What could cause it. It does not come out once I put the bolt in.

I have a question by any chance is the Heatriser Springs is installed in the wrong direction?

I wrote a book for Cartechbooks.com that explains how to rebuild these engines in detail. You can get it on Amazon.com , National Library of Australia , Publishers Group UK or if in the US, from my website at devestechnet.com. On Amazon search for Deve Krehbiel. The book number at cartechbooks.com is SA455. New one coming in February 2020 How to Restore Your 1947-1955 Chevy Truck.

Stovebolt Army front and center! Thanks for your web page info too!!

Dude awesome video! Thank you so much it helped tremendously! You did a great job