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I don't remember but there is no measure in the manual. I have made the measurments at the time by leting the clutch rod to travel enough. If you tight to much the clutch will not disengage, if you let to loose the rod will not push the clutch cover. So you have to find little by little the correct tightening of the nut.

@@lznicu thanks!

The ignition advance is electronic and is done by the CDI unit.

www.ebay.com/itm/155718773070?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

@@lznicu Thank you!

Yes, I can say is my own my design in the way that I have designed two parts in order to be able to use some scooter parts (CDI and the sensor) in order to work on this engine. The plate on which I have assembled the sensor and the trigger of the sensor are made on my own design and they were executed by a turner.

Or you have made an error or the fork is worn out and it is not pulling enough.

@@lznicu I restored all this parts. And them is in good condition

@@Andrey_Tarariew Or you have made a mistake or you have a wrong part, maybe the disk clutch is too thick. This clutch is quit simple, you should see what is wrong. When you pull the clutch you feel the tension of the springs or is solid?

@@lznicu on pulling clutch is absolute solid. I checked that is placing correct and not replacing during assembling

@@Andrey_Tarariew That means something is wrong, if you have a solid feel for the clutch something is not ok. The bolts of the clutch with the springs are original?

The bearings for axial play are available in different thickness according to your needs after measurment. First you have to measure the play and after that you establish the thicknes of the bearing that you need acording to the specs in the manual and your measurements. There are four bearings available: 08 Stop disk 2,483-2,53 2 11111256973 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,53-2,578 2 11111256974 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,578-2,626 2 11111256975 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,626-2,673 2 11111256976 $35.31 Give me a link from Brookes Airhead to see about that wrong reading but I don't thing it was because of the oil because the oil film is too thin to influence the measurements.

@@lznicu hi Luca thank you for replying. here is extensive article on main engine Trust Washers.....I found his mistake and how he corrected it.........I'm following his and your ways ......I'm glad to see your vids again hope your well and keeping busy with your video of bike and especially engine building .....please more vids on this and more explanation on your process it is a great help so thank you.... I'm just clean the oil pan and bottom of the block as there's a little gap so I'm lapping those parts just got to check the crank shaft oil passages one final clean then back to gather. it's been a learning curve for me at 65 but loving it.......hope you keep in touch...stay safe chap..regards Phil

Почему? В чем проблема?!

@@lznicu.. датчик не понятный, комментарии одни иностранцы пишут.. С коммутатором не понятно как подключён. И на раме под баком.. сверхновая установка, непонятного образца.. Даже предугадывать не стал, иностранцы додумались, наши нет.

@@kenteytonor7178 Я постараюсь найти время, чтобы объяснить эту систему зажигания и необходимые детали. Подпишитесь на мой канал TH-cam, чтобы получать уведомления. Это простая и дешевая система зажигания.

As you have seen I did not use excesive force and I did not use the screwdriver between the surfaces. I have pushed with the screwdriver in the shoulders designed for opening the case.

Salut! Orice e posibil... ar fi interesant sa descrieti aici in cateva cuvinte istoria ei.

That red light is permanent for iginition on green red is for neutral. The charging system is a modern one whitout light control and the owner wanted to have the red light for ignition on.

@@lznicu alles gut Danke für Info

100cc for each pipe. It is not a hidraulic fork so you can use any type of oil. I have used T90 transmission oil but like i said you can use any tipe of oil.

👍thank you very much !@@lznicu

I am not russian.

@@lznicu yes I see you are Romanian

www.motorradmeistermilz.de/ and oldtimergarage.eu/gb/ . There are others sites but this are the usual.

I had a problem with the camshaft, described here: th-cam.com/video/QwU-Y_M7HQE/w-d-xo.html . After solving the problem the chirp sound dissapeard. In your case if the the camshaft is not the problem it could be the ignition timing.

I know about this improvments but after this work the rear drive is working just fine. I have now near 1000km and no oil loss until know. On this rear drive which is actualy a Dnepr 650 rear drive with a M72 cover suspension I have the ventilated dipstick wich release the pressure built inside the rear drive.

Just because it was available, it was rebuilt by me for a K750 project that is paused for the moment.

We had a complete set for timing gears and chain: www.motorradmeistermilz.de/Antrieb-fuer-Steuerung-EMW-R35

There are various shops on internet but mostly from here: www.motorradmeistermilz.de/

No , I have used the delayed ignition, if you look carefully you will see my left thumb moving the lever.

No, it is not for sale.