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I am not sure how you have the parts apart. You might want to put them back together one at a time. Saving the corner bracket with rod for last. Its position in terms of rotation is a key part to it working as it should. Once its inserted then you twist to get the torque you need. After that I then clamped into place before bolting.

With mine the brackets at the end of torsion bars went through the roof. I had to remove the bracket/ bar and old wood. Then when putting it back together I reset the tension. The torsion bar came out of the tube. It was somewhat difficult resetting the tension, then holding it and bolting the bracket to the wood again.

I changed the heads but you do not have to. The intake manifold had to be changed. I needed a port for my power break booster and the new intake had the port for the booster. I am not sure on the 78 bug what you would need to do. You could call Kaddie Shack and talk to those guys. They are the all knowing when it comes to VW stuff.

When I did mine a few years ago I also put an aluminum flat bar around the out side of the top. I didn't take the time to cut the channel into the wood. The repair has held up good and the top goes up and down easy. I did add two 100 watt solar panels up on the roof. Even with the added weight the lift works.

Just under the carbs. The intake manifolds had threaded fittings to access the intake vacuum.

You mentioned possible issues how's it been so far?

@@familyurias1938 Break booster works great with it hooked up on the intake manifolds just under carbs. No issues at all. Make sure you get intake manifolds with threaded holes to tie into.

Right on thanks Richard

not sure, I replaced this washer after I had this problem. My new washer has already had issues with its motor. I had to replace new machines motor. I would think voltage should be around 110 volts.

I saw the 6 vane pump for the TR7/Stag. Do you have a part # ? If it fits the TR6 then that should do the trick. I haven't had any problems with over heating since I plugged the recycle hole down in the pump. I did this to the pump over 4 years ago and still works great. Thanks for your comment, it could help someone who is having the same problem. Sharing info is what keeps these old cars on the road.

@@richrocketlll hi Richard, sorry got my wires crossed there, the six vane pump for my TR6 I bought from a company here in England called Racetorations not Moss , the Moss pump I was thinking of was for a TR4 that I no longer own, there is also a company here called Revington TR who do exceptional quality engineered components for the TR range, I believe they do a modified pump as well.

It was with a pair of Alpine speakers. The remote only controls the Kenwood subwoofer.

@@richrocketlll Thanks,

@@richrocketlll which model is your alpine speaker?

I am so sorry your best friend died. Sorting out the problem and making repairs like this have to be done in person. Sometimes the lift system is broke and that is why they will not go up.

Did you get your camper fix. I just fixed mine yesterday.

I am not sure of the PSI of cooling system. I can tell you for sure that plugging the hole down in pump put more water through the radiator. I have not had any problem at all with temps after I did this. If I had to do one mod to help with cooling this would be the one. Cutting the studs off that extend into circulation area of pump had to of increased flow also. I just had the TR6 out yesterday in 90 degree weather. Temps ran normal.

Hi Cinthia, Good to hear from you. Hope all is going good for you, stay healthy and safe.

Thanks for the info on who made the lift system. I did this repair back in late 2019. It has worked great since. It is a tough lift system. Keeping the water away from the corner wood/brackets is the key to it lasting and working for a long time. I have added some solar panels to the roof and it lifts the top right on up.

On my other video someone asked the question about position of torsion bars. I explained it in the answer. I used a clock/time to explain the position of start point. Look through the ?s and answers it is answered. C clamps to hold in position until I bolted it down.

I have the same question how to unload the torsion spring

I would like to know the answer to your question also. Did you ever figure it out?

​@@jeffreysmith9368 I was wondering if you ever figured out how to release the tension? I did and now my camper is fixed and ready to go. I am willing to share how I did it if you need help. I did it all by myself.

When I built the motor I put in a high lift cam, two over pistons. Several other performance mods. Timing is advanced a bit also. This just adds to more heat. Maybe with a stock motor it would not be needed. You would be right and it would not be needed at all. I like to make these videos to help others that might find them useful. Overheating with Triumph TR6 is not an uncommon problem. Thanks for your comment Antonella.

Sounds good. If you do a video I'll check it out. The way I did it was not easy but it worked. The videos help others do the repair. Thats why I do them. I like the feed back. Thanks

@@richrocketlll this is a fairly specific issue. The tension on that bracket is the kicker. Seems like a pretty straightforward job without that thing trying to chop at ya. I did notice a bit of confusion on the orientation of how the bar is indexed at it's "resting" position as to apply preload to the lift. 7 degrees from perpendicular seems to be accurate based on what I've read and saw when tension was released.

Is the fuse exposed ot u need to cut inside the wire to expose the fuse

I still have this system on the bus. It has worked fine for me. My filter is mounted vertical so I fill filter with oil when I replace it during oil change. I have had no problems at all with the oil cooler,filter or lines. I also inspect oil lines during oil change and make sure they are secure. I just had the bus out yesterday and its running good.

inlet .008 exhaust.010 Thanks for the comment I like all the bikes. The older the better.

If my memory is correct started with left was around 1:00 pm . The right was around 11:00 am. This was standing at rear of camper and looking at the camper. That would make the left go to 3:00pm and the right to 9:00 am. When all done only moving 2 hours each. Did one at a time. Hope this helps.1:00pm to 3:00pm left side ---- 11:00am to 9:00am right side of camper. Toward center of camper down.

If I remember right what I did was I used a pipe wrench on one side of bracket back side of camper pulling down. I put the pipe wrench on the bracket itself. Then when I got it down in the right position I clamped the other side of bracket to side board. All at same time. The cover siding was not attached to the boards yet, it was still pealed up. So I could clamp the bracket to the wood. I tapped the bracket lightly to get it where I wanted it, while it was still clamped. Then I screwed and bolted the bracket into place. It was not easy. A lot of pressure on that bar.

@@richrocketlll, Thank you x 1000! Much appreciate your response. I'm working on it today, and your message may save the day. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thank you for your video and time.

I used a multimeter to check fuse. The fuse was enclose in heat shrink. Always check fuse before motor. Unplug power cord to washer before checking fuse.

I though about cutting splines a little further up the shaft on the box. Then moving the pitman arm up about 1/8 inch more. If I ever pull the box again I might try this. Not much shaft to work with but this might improve the steering even more. It must have something to do with the pitman arm angle to the inside tie rod ends. Thanks for your comment.

I removed all the wiring for fuel injection system. Got power for new fuel pump and fuel cutoffs at the coil. The ignition switch gets power to the coil when I start the bus. That was about it as best I can recall. I haven't had any problems with the bus since I did the conversion. It runs good.

I like mine but if you want big woofer sound then you might want to go big. I have had no problems at all with my Kenwood subwoofer.

@@richrocketlll awesome thank for replying, i appreciate it:)

Hi Cinthia, Smokeout 20 was good. Linda and I went. We had a blast. I was surprised to hear from you after so long. I posted the video some time ago. Hope you get the bike right. I'm working on a 1966 BSA b44. Linda said hi.

@@richrocketlll Hi to Linda, too! I had seen the video soon after you posted it, but I didn't know how to comment. I don't know much about b44's. I think my bike's issues started when it got totally drenched in water. I've replaced almost every element of the electrical system. Anyway, it was so nice to see another BSA at Smokeout 19.

@@cinthiawing8854 You know when I understood you had rode that hard tail as far as you did it took me back. I was very surprised. Its not something you see everyday. Old bikes are known to break down. On my b44 I have gone through the motor. Put it back in the bike. I had to rewire the whole bike. I am waiting on a clip for the carb. Then I will try to kick it over. So good to hear from you. Cheers.