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@JWNZ. I am trying to use this method. Transferring works great, but my transparent film is shrinking/expanding when the hot nozzle prints on it, causing the print on it to distort or fall off completely. How did you solve this issue? I tried to put my bed on 100° and my nozzle on 190° to have less a temperature shock than with 60° bed and 230° nozzle, but this did not help at all.

Do you sell a diy guide some where? Couldnt find it on patreon

Is it okay to print it with pla+ ?

What magnets and how strong ones did you use

Where to buy it ?

Thanks you may have inspired a hack for me. I'd need to get my printers back up n running and I can text it out

I think that in order to quickly switch the operating mode to sequential and back, you can rotate the case by 90 degrees, that way you can simplify the build even more

Thank you for the good explanation. How can I turn on the LED pin4 on the board?

also would this work if i had steering mapped to my controller and just throttle and brake mapped to the pedals?

does this work with any game like if i wanted to setup the pedals with f1 2023 or 2024 would there be anything different i would need to do?

I like this. Perhaps an enhancement might be that each body worn tag has an separate colour LED, and then the Frisbee randomly selects a new colour when a rest. The game is to "tag" the right player displaying that colour and so on. 21st Century you're It (a kids playground game chiefly here in the Old Dark) Oh, and first (always wanted to do that, but hate seeing it) and last time of doing it.

hello can do a video on the wiring of the components in a detailed video been trying to make this just confused with wiring part

Really great video! I do have a question. How long does the threaded rod and the roll pins need to be? Only the diameter is shown on your Printables page for this awesome project.

plz tell the code how can i use nema 17 motor instead of x27 plzz helpp

how do you actually connect the hall sensor to a pc

The algorithm has chosen you. For real though, awesome build.

the casing is way too small. unusable

I've been an avid user of this type of device for over 30 years. I own 2 arcades (JAMMA and JAMMA+MVS port). I applaud the move to make one. However, you need ballast to install it comfortably. It's simple, on the ones I bought for the PS1, Genesis, Saturn and SNES, I had at the time added pieces of steel fixed with silicone to the inside of the cases. On the PS1, it wasn't easy, as it's not very thick. It's hard to find the ultimate arcade stick, you have to build it. A friend used a mixture of plaster and wood glue for the ballast. Over a width of 80 centimeters, his DIY approach proved highly effective, with 2 SF2 enthusiasts at the helm. For ultimate comfort during long gaming sessions, the case must be wide enough to support the palm of the hand... like a real arcade with a rounded side.

yes

I'd love to see a matrix set-up! Thanks for the video mate

Hi, thanks for the video. I managed to get WLED to get a signal from my lighting console and can successfully control 1 esp32 and strip, but when I try to patch another fixture in the console for the second esp/strip, it doesn't seem to work or respond to the console. Any insight? I even tried patching on a different universe and changing the respective settings in WLED.

great

I have been making home PCB's for about 40 years using the positive photo resist method. But now days you can't get the resist coated boards or the chemicals anymore. MG Chemicals made the best stuff but they no longer sell it. I also have a large 8 x 12 solder pot where I dip the boards coated with liquid flux just like industry did in the 1960s before solder mask became the norm.. I find that DIY tin plating solution breaks down after a few years. I too tried many of the TH-cam toner transfer techniques including professional transfer paper with the same poor results you got. One TH-camr, Mr. Carlson's Lab, makes really good SMD PCB's with toner and a low cost modified laminating machine. I guess it's practice, practice, practice, until you come up with a good process. I hear you can get the photo resist products from Europe? PCBway is great and I use them a lot. But often I just need a simple single sided board.

Nice work, your dead pixel is because you didn't reset the simple desk. It is the final arbiter of what is sent out on dmx lines.

Well done Jason it looks sick, hell I bet you'd put it that in a real car and it would be just as awesome

I think I saw someone else do this, they printed on photo quality paper, and printed a few times to layer up the ink to block as much light as possible. to me the vinyl sounds easier if you have the cutter or want it all one color.

Beautiful work! Hope to see you expand on this project!

Hi! i cant find de STL :(

Sadly It was a pain in the ass to install wled on my esp32-s3

One suggestion I'd have is that in simhub you can actually send each variable on its own rather than how you done it, then you can send them as key value pairs and then receive them on the arduino. (Tokenize and strcmp) The benefit is that it's easier to add more variables rather than modifying where it is in the serial payload. Also then with simhub you can modify the data rate of each variable so some can update faster or slower or even only when it changes

I really would like to see a followup for this! Seems like a great idea

From witch car was the speedometer?

Chrome suggested on andriod sent me here, awesome and straightforward design!

I'm new here. This is very inspirational!

Hmm, i think it would be possible to add "buttons" - like button covers - to that design. Print a transparent top first, then change the filament to a black tpu. Print the sides of a button, and add an arch at the bottom that deforms if you press it, allowing the black tpu to trigger the sensors. I hope you all understand what i mean.

USB connection is that much harder to use? You would do away with the multiplexor. Neat idea.

I'm gonna sub and "borrow" this idea for an upcoming guitar pedalboard...

Hi Jason. Really good video, but is there a write up with code? Are you selling it in ebook form? Can't find anything related to it on the (mmobile version of your website

great video! where is the voice from?

Can't wait for the finished result

Oooooh this is very smart is exactly the type of inspiration i was looking for. I have a ton of these little stickboxes from console repair. I was thinking "what if i put it right under the stick" but uhhh it instantly occurred to me that the moment i slam it into gear against the guide plate, there's going to be a mad torque on the stick that'll rip the stickbox right apart, it's not made for levered side loads like these. My other thought was to have a good robust potentiometer read X movement but have two Y movement limit switches. I'll be using a blue pill with custom firmware for my build, i have already done a firmware proof of concept. I'm looking to accomplish following features: - compact build, possibly conical running narrower towards the bottom, fully enclosed in a 3D print. - quick desk mounting, tilted towards me. - 6 speed gearbox arrangement with Euro reverse rear left, so ideally where one needs to press down on the shifter knob to get it into reverse. I don't know if i can implement this type of reverse, but i guess i can always "cheat" and make it more difficult to move to the left into the reverse. - hollow alu shaft with wiring with MiniXLR connector for the knob. Two knobs, SKRS and racing. - i'm also adding a 3.5mm jack for clutch pedal. - probably some sort of button/encoder device for more functions.

❤

Just stumbled across your channel after showing up on my home feed. You have a lot of great videos covering topics I've been curious about, but haven't fully dug into yet. Thanks for all of the information, I look forward to trying some of the projects you've shared

Bro which game is it ?😊