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It slows the drying process on the end grain allowing the moisture to evaporate more evenly which helps reduce splitting

What did you use to paint it? I am preparing to cut few logs with my chainsaw and this is something I completely left out of my mind.

It’s called End Seal and it’s made by Chestnut Products👍

Thanks! @@NathanaelGriffiths

It’s called End Seal and it’s made by Chestnut Products. It’s a wax based emulsion paint to slow drying

It’s called End Seal and it’s made by Chestnut Products. It’s a wax based emulsion paint to slow drying

@@NathanaelGriffiths thank you very much, I'll try to get it here in stupid Europe 😅

All the slabs are 2m long and 5.5cm thick. The largest slab is 70cm across at its widest point.

I use a standard chain on my 28 inch bar for general cutting and a LoPro skip tooth chain on my 40 inch milling bar in the Alaskan Mill

I’m not sure about that one😅 I really enjoyed watching your video too!

I got mine from FR Jones and Son, it’s the 42 inch panther chainsaw mill. www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products/panther-42-chainsaw-mill-with-gb42-lo-pro-milling-bar-42/

I use it mostly for woodturning but a lot of people use beech for furniture as well. Thanks for watching!

Beech warps and distorts in a trapazoid manner. But once its dry its GREAT wood. Hard. Works well under blades and knives. VERY high weight and stress bearing wood. It glues and screws well and takes stain well. Because we dont have holly (ibex) here, we use it for WHITE wood against walnut, mahogany, and cherry. Its about to become rare due to a disease that is killing it off; not quite as fast as the ash has died but any beech that have flaws or injuries and especially small beech- dying. Get all you can now. Historically, the sofa and stuffed chair industry has used beech for the frames of covered sofas. It was used in past centuries for axles and wheel hubs when osage or ironwood wasnt available; not quite as good because of its tendency to crack when drying, but when fully dried and oiled- it was a good choice. If you saw- put some away for the future; saw it thick (8-12/4), stack it to dry for at least 2-4 years; its worth whatever walnut or ironwood is selling for at that point to the right craftsman. Maybe me.

Overall it took me about 10 hours over the course of 2 days but I milled up another section the same size as the one in the video at the same time

@@NathanaelGriffiths Thx Nat. Gorgeous beech. I have several here that i have my eye on. But, does the hand crank really help? Skeptical.

My left hand has to stay on the chainsaw trigger to keep cutting and it’s quite difficult to reach to the other side of the log with my other hand. It’s definitely not needed but it just helps to pull the mill evenly through the tree with one hand

These slabs were cut just over 5cm thick (2 inches). Any thicker and they would have been too difficult to move.

Thanks! It’s called End Seal and is made by Chestnut Products

Why do you put end seal on the wood?

@@rikertvonfulton16 it helps the wood dry more evenly so there is less chance of the slabs splitting during the drying process

@@NathanaelGriffiths Thanks. I am new to chainsaw mill work. I have a small high tunnel I am thinking of storing slabs in to dry. What are your thoughts?

@@rikertvonfulton16 ideally you want a well ventilated shaded outdoor area so the wood can lose moisture as quickly as possible. The more humid the air is the longer the wood will take to dry (hence why you need a ventilated area). If the wood is stored in direct sunlight then it is likely to split (hence the why you need shade).

The attachment is called an Alaskan Mill