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simon4043
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2007
A New Design of Alcohol Backpacker Stove boils water faster than a Trangia
A novel design "convection pressure" alcohol stove featuring both inner and outer flame jets. Click on the time here 7:28 to skip discussion on the limitations of other stove designs. This easily-made stove starts heating the kettle from the moment it's lit (no pre-heating, no "cold pot kill"), has no central cold spot, does not need a pot stand and allows easy retrieval of unburnt fuel for later use. As a bonus, it also works well as a charcoal stove, for a long, slow simmer
The rising column of hot alcohol vapour formed by the lower internal flame jets gently pressurizes the upper half of the stove, forcing the vapour out of the upper jet holes. After secondary ignition, these jets form the main heating source. Make one and it will change the way you look at the humble tin can forever!
The rising column of hot alcohol vapour formed by the lower internal flame jets gently pressurizes the upper half of the stove, forcing the vapour out of the upper jet holes. After secondary ignition, these jets form the main heating source. Make one and it will change the way you look at the humble tin can forever!
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Each year the Hartley TS16 Association in Victoria runs a variety of sailing and motoring cruises. This is from a cruise on the Yarra river through the centre of Melbourne on a beautiful Spring day. The Hartley TS16 was designed by New Zealander Richard Hartley in the early 1960's, and was the original "trailer-sailer" design.
Outstanding ding ding😊 ding!
Brilliantly simple design! I've only tried it with methylated spirits, but need to find something else as I can't stand the smell of meths. Not easy finding a suitable range of fuels here in NZ.
Methanol is an ideal fuel if you can get it. Essentially odourless.
Ive been looking for what size holes did you use?
6mm holes, but now I use diagonal overlapping slots so that all the holes light progressively around the rim. (see pinned notes at top #8)
I’m going to make one for emergency use. I have excess to 80%alcohol spirit.
That should be fine as long as it's not isopropyl alcohol
If you bend the top part to become square, you don't even necessarily need a windscreen, as the wind does not bend around sharp corners. Obviously loosing efficiency on the non wind side.
They burn hot with the holes around the outside but good luck snuffing the flame once it has bloomed.
I've never had a problem snuffing the flame. Just put the snuffer over the top and it's out instantly. You don't need a big tin to snuff the stove or retrieve the fuel. A cooking pot, a mug or a cone of aluminium foil will work just as well.
I've been using a stove with your design for a couple of years worth of outdoor cooking. I added a bigger tin (same height, larger radius) around the burner to act as a wind shield and more stable pot stand. I like it a lot, thank you for sharing your work!
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. Am awaiting delivery of my first alcohol stove (trangia copy) but will make one as per your design with the tin from my just eaten lunch!
Built this and it worked a treat simple but useful it gets my vote
Fantasticly simple yet effective design. Well done.
Fuiciona com álcool normal?
Não tenho certeza do que você quer dizer com álcool normal! Funcionará com etanol, álcool desnaturado, álcool desnaturado e metanol, mas não com álcool isopropílico, conhecido como álcool isopropílico.
Dude.... I've been making and using alcohol stove for years. This is by far the easiest and best I've made and used! Hats off to you sir!! Thanks for the outstanding video showing what led to your design. Kudos!
I'm glad you're finding it useful!
After seeing endless stoves, you've come up with a new design. That is remarkable. Sorry that it's 6 years later!
The simplest designs that you can make work are always the best. Thanks
That is a slick design. "Simple" that works is always best. Do you have a video of you folding those support tabs at the top of the can? I like that, maybe just use the 3 inside ones to avoid the sharp points. I will have to try this with different sizes and height cans. At the 7:45 mark, it looks like there is a big flame in the center of the kettle, how long did that design take to come to a boil? Thanks
I like the toilet paper paint can stove instead. I added a cross member pot stand. Easy to light and stable. Heats and cooks quickly and resealable. Am still updating the pot stand
That's great as long as you can stop the alcohol evaporating!
God damn why does everybody show all their old stoves?While showing a new one, they just created wasn't that the purpose of creating a new stove.Because your old ones don't work quite as well.Why f***ing show all your old s***
How do you show the advantages of a new design without showing the disadvantages of the old? I even put "Click on the time here 7:28 to skip discussion on the limitations of other stove designs" in the description for viewers like you who can't be bothered to view the rest!
I gotta say my Trangia eats half the fuel and lasts 23 minutes too... But then again I remember that not any single of my pots is that size. I gotta give yours a go. About the recovery of fuel, it might be useful to develop a double container system. Say, a dish or a cup of alcohol inside, and the chimney, in two separate tools. I bet the rim of liquid alcohol must be very close to the bottom holes, and I also bet the liquid must heat from the contact of the chimney too, but I think the recovery process is hard from optimal. Besides that I'm gonna build one for sure!!! Awesome idea and thanks for sharing
Well then you've got a different Trangia to mine!
When someone says “boils water faster than a Trangia” it’s a wasted statement. We could as well say that “this stove is faster than a birthday candle”. Or, a wooden match. Now, that being said, a bit tongue in cheek, quite frankly, even though accurate, it is still not a useful piece of information. When operating a stove in camp, I AM NOT IN A HURRY! I am not in camp to win any race - period. A USEFUL piece of information would be how much fuel it consumed. Then, I can make informed choices about how much fuel to carry. THAT is useful information for most campers. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
The information you're looking for is in point 2 of my pinned notes at the top of the comments section. Hope that helps. A Trangia is the gold standard as far as alcohol camp stoves go IMO, so I thought a comparison would be attract a click or two. (but wasn't expecting 500k plus)
@@simon4043 G’day, Simon. Thank you. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
So you put the charcoal in the liquid before it burns out or before you light it?
Before you light it. It was originally conceived as a charcoal stove. The fact that it worked so well as a pure alcohol stove was a surprise to me! The alcohol was added originally merely to light the charcoal.
@simon4043 I tried it last night and it is very impressive. Didn't use charcol but alcoholburned better then all my little cans. Thanks
I know this is 6 years ago, but i judt made this, in mins, and wow! It boils in no time. You are a genius buddy. Thank you so much 👊👊
I hope you have fun with it, and find it useful.
Thank you Simon informative well filmed beautiful design and will lead me to making my own soon and I learned so much thank you again
I sense nothing but smugness as he bests many tried and true designs forgetting the initial reasoning for their designs. Compatibility. Not saying the design is bad, but other designs were made for camping in the mountains so what they lack in efficiency they make up for compatibility and durability.
It's horses for courses. This stove is a dual-fuel design so, if you run out of alcohol, you can still cook a meal. Show me another design that does that and I'll take my hat off to you.
Do you think that an aluminium beer can could be used if you only intended to use alcohol fuel?
Aluminium is fine with alcohol, but charcoal is too hot for it, and it will melt
This is an excellent video and I recommend it a s a project and you’ll get a cool stove out of it. As a note, I recommend punching holes in each position of the air holes using a finishing nail as the pilot hole before using the 6mm drill. I smoothed the burrs using a file. When I lighted the alcohol it burned orange until I placed a pot on the stove top. This means that it needed the top sealed, as the video discussed, to maintain pressuse on the alcohol vapor within the stove chamber. When it exits the holes at the top it is regulated by the size of the holes so that it hits the air hot and ready to burn at a rate that it is nearly perfect rate for the available air to allw for clean burn; hence the blue flame. This mis made a grate procject for anyone who loves camping.
Yep, a pilot hole is the way to go. I use a thumbtack, but any small pointy thing will do.
@@simon4043 pointy thing: right! the box of tapestry finishing nails were handy so it was the choice. 😂 fwiw, my SAK reaming tool is about 6mm at the root so may do this again in the field as a demo with a can of beans. Burn out the plastic liner 😡 with a lump of charcoal then cook the beans in my mess kit and soak up the admiration of my mates. 👍😂
Excellent video, straight to the point, very well explained, well done, best one yet , 👍
And I like to complicate stuff for what reason? I'm sold. Thanks very much for the video. Subscribed. 👍
Awesome design! Exactly what I was looking for. Simplicity as its finest!
Very nice and simple. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent! Thanks for the demonstration. Subscribed.
One of the greatest report in the study and design of alcohol stoves. The data never gets old. Thanks for your service to all.
Intressant ❤❤❤❤
Excuse my ignorance. I do not understand how the vapor is not ignited by the lower jets before it gets to the upper holes. Please help me understand. Thank you.
It is. That's why there is an internal flame. There's enough heat to vaporize more alcohol than there is oxygen to burn it, so the excess vapour exits from the top holes where it's burnt by secondary ignition.
I failed miserably building the soda cans version. And I have found them to be highly unstable. I will try your version with the steel can. Thanks boss 👊🏼
Well reasoned and designed. Your design is by far the most effective and elegant alcohol Stove design I have ever seen.
The latest video is all about real crime documentaries. I hope you find it intriguing. After watching, please share your thoughts with me!
Do you have anything that will work with veg oil?
Sorry no, just alcohol
Thank you Sir ; even 6 years a go, but these one maybe my love and chosen, thank for share .
I'd love to see an update on how you have evolved your design over the years
Still using it, except the upper holes are now overlapping slots, so they all light together.
Great design! Simple and effective. Anyone with a drill can make one, perhaps even with just a SAK awl or church key. With something like a mesh to keep wood off the bottom, it can easily be used as a twig stove. Also, twisting the air holes to create a vortex would be nice as the swirling air would likely cause all air exit holes to be self ignited. (Plus this modification could allow for an inner plate/mesh to be held inside simply by the protrusions in the can from the tilted holes). So yeah that’s my two cents - one can, one safety can opener to open the can from inside the rim and then have the top drop down and serve as a tray for twigs/charcoal. Twisted air intake/outtake holes for circular air flow, and an easy way to hold the inner plate in place. Would need to drill holes in the inner plate for airflow from alcohol ( though it’d likely be better to remove it from inside if using it to burn alcohol).
Thanks for the video! I loved that you used a glass Pyrex container to showcase lighting it.
Beautiful!
Good application of pyrophysics there! I like the bi fuel capability as well. Any relationship between the distance between the top and bottom holes? Any data on the fuel quantity to boil 500ml water? This will allow accurate use of fuel without the need to recapture unburned fuel. I would like to ry this design with a slightly larger diameter pot with a lower centre of gravity for a more stable setup. Excellent work Mate!
You need a minimum of 6cm between the top and bottom holes to generate the chimney draft effect. The design shown (12 lower holes) burns methanol at a rate of 4 ml per minute, boiling 500 ml of water in 6.5 min (less with ethanol). Fuel capacity is 95 ml, giving a total burn time of 23.75 minute
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Nicely done!
i saw a test on vermiculite firebrick cut in a circle and soaked in alcohol was the lightest most efficient system but im betting a small tin of sand filled with alcohol will match that
Super! Making one of these tonight. I live on a sailboat and butane fuel is getting more and more expensive. So I want to try a simple, effective alcohol burner. Thank you.
Please use a fire-proof plate underneath, and only use it when on a mooring, not when under way. I'd hate to hear that alcohol spilled out and set fire to your boat!
My number one priority with an alcohol burner is that it has to be light weight.
You can make this design out of aluminium. You just can't burn charcoal in it. It will melt.
I notice that most people use the alcohol stoves only for boiling water. Would this work if I wanted to cook something, like bacon and eggs, or pancakes? Also how far apart (minimum distance) do the two sets of holes need to be? Thank you, Chris
Yes, you can certainly fry on this stove. Minimum distance between the top and bottom holes to generate the convection current (chimney draft effect) is 6 cm.
Impressively simple and works more uniformly than any of the smaller alcohol stoves! Next can I open turns into one.