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If someone buy Prusa its mean that he dont want to modyfy his printer he just want to prinr, buy cheap printer and invest more money and time in it..

Would attaching an MMU to this setup still work?

How did you hook it up externally? Is it an analog output?

Does this same mod also apply to the new MK4S? Also, the Aliexpress links have died, could you please provide updated links?

Looking forward to seeing a MK4S version

Do you have any issues with the Z axis getting off? I have a triple Z as well with independent motors and when I Z_tilt_adjust, I'm always way off after every print. Sometimes as much as 0.8.

on finished model erhm.... finish - if filament i'm using is matte in spool, shouldn't it stay matte after the print?

Everyone praises and is happy about it, but no one realizes that it is completely unnecessary? Bambulab has conquered the market with its fast and very beautiful printing machines. Each has a single Z motor connected by a belt drive. 1. It is not necessary to level it because the two (or 3) axles are connected and never stop. 2. Faster start of printing, fewer parts, fewer errors.

How many minutes for that benchy?

my table is so shaky that this would make it levitate. and i m only at 250mm/s 🤣

Are you using stock firmware or Klipper on your MK4?

But this mod changes the weight and CG of the toolhead, without the accelerometer on the toolhead wouldn’t it be a problem?. Not having it on a printer this expensive is a massive oversight from Prusa

But speed printing means a weaker part regardless of visual quality.

Have followed all your instructions and purchased the specified parts. My Mk4 consistently fails the loadcell calibration tests with the E3D adapter and included .4 brass nozzle, Reinsert the stock parts and all works well. Any suggestions - have used multiple E3D nozzles with the same failure.

I am reminded of the recent-ish CNC Kitchen "Volcano hotend is obsolete - JUST USE NUTS" :D

Like it, bring any mod you got for prusa.

Does anyone have good settings for the MK4?

I speculate you could have similar results using a CHT nozzle with the stock heatblock. Thanks for showing this off!

Do you have a video showing how to assmable the nozzzle after purchasing all materials ? If not , can you make one ?

all of this to be crushed by a fucking ender three

This is an interesting mod and I like the theory and quantification you presented, but both of these Benchys look terrible in my opinion - at least on camera. Admittedly, this is in the spirit of your channel name, but it's useless for any real-life printing scenarios. People want to print the same quality more quickly or a better quality in the same amount of time. Nobody wants quick failures. Just a thought: If you think the hotend is limiting the rest of the machine, why not decrease nozzle diameter instead of increasing heat output? This won't improve printing time, but it'll improve printing time per quality.

Why infamous?

Not sure about combination “aluminum block + 24v/50w heater”. Safer option will be 40w heater on aluminum or 50w with brass/copper block.

If you want a fast printer, probably not the MK4, check for yourself in PrusaSliser what the actual BENCHY print is and it's definitely not 20 minutes, for me it's 46 minutes, and besides, it's better to buy a printer in a housing with the latest technologies with core x y .

Love it: <what's the point of having a way faster printer if you can't melt the plastic fast enough> - that's how you beat any other "speed-heavy" printers out there!! :D On that note, I wouldn't overdo it with PETG : ) Nice. Don't you think that Prusa knows the "secrets" of higher flow though? Unfortunately not all of the projects are "open". It would be much easier for everyone - including Prusa - if more manufacturers cared more about open source like Prusa does. In fact, the Prusa nozzle technically is not proprietary.

Very interesting comparison. How about a Nextruder with CHT Nozzle? If normal Nextruder is better then V6+CHT how about Tuning the Nextruder-Block with the CHT Nozzle?

Finally? That odd cus last i check i had inputshaping on my prusa for over 5months. Besides that point the rest of your videos really good

Part of the "ghosting" comes from the fact most slicers do a super crap job of using arcs. Running through arc welder can drastically what appears to be ghosting on curved walls.

try a bambulabs clone

Dude prusa just keeps giving themselves the L's

Thank you for including data! I love these types of scientific investigations and problem solving 🥰

##### FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ##### 1: Settings you need to change (When I get some time I'll upload some configs - keep your eye on this comment) REQUIRED * Printer settings -> General -> Max print height : change this from 220mm to 210mm RECOMMENDED * Filament settings -> advanced -> Max volumetric Speed: PETG: 13 if you want a perfectly uniform gloss finish or crank it up to 20 if you're feeling impatient ABS: 25 to be conservative and up to 35 for speed benchy PLA: 25 to 35? I don't print PLA anymore, sorry. * Cooling: You'll need to tune these yourself but a good starting point is to add 50% to the max fan speed * Retraction length: increase this by 50% to start and increase up to 100% if stringing becomes an issue OPTIONAL * Speeds: you can basically crank these up as much as you want - add cooling as necessary. * Accelerations: Play with these! Push it (under close supervision) and have fun! 95% original quality - External perimeters: 4k, Top solid infill: 5k, Perimeters: 8k, Infill: 10k, Travel: 10k, Bridge: 2.5k 90% original quality - External perimeters: 6k, Top solid infill: 8k, Perimeters: 10k, Infill: 10k, Travel: 10k, Bridge: 2.5k 2: Yes! I did try a CHT first 😏 Sorry that I didn't mention it in the video! The problem is that the heater isn't powerful enough to feed it which is the main reason that you need to upgrade to a 50W heater.

This is interesting, but if it won't produce equal part strength and print quality to going normal speed it isn't of much value to me. We want the best quality these machines can make. Even input shaping speeds often reduce overall quality compared to going a bit slower.

Thank you for posting this. I'm pretty new to printing, just started with a Sovol SV07+, and it took me awhile to figure out that in stock form it has substandard parts cooling. The directional curtain fan on the back of the X crossbar is part of the problem - it creates differential cooling zones across the width (X) of the plate as well as by exposure time, with the -Y areas of the plate getting the effect continuously and the +Y areas not getting enough. This leads to differential layer heights if you're running the thing at speed, then the nozzle starts knocking on them, etc. Finally worked out a design for dual 5015 blowers to ride on the print head. Seems to have solved all of the problems. Curtain fan is now removed. Also the overhangs look much much better now :) Anyway it's up on printables if anyone else has a SV07+ with the same problem.

with Volcano + MK3S the firmware modification for Z-height was necessary, what about with the MK4?

All your graphics have x axis leyend wrong, it is (mm3/s) not (mm/s3)

FFS I just sold my nextruder nozzle adapter *face palm*, 50% is too much to pass up!

Great video! I might give this a try. I think the MK3.5 is also a very interesting candidate for high speed printing, as you can easily install any hotend, such as Revo HF with 50W heatercore, Phaetus Rapido or Goliath.

Why dont you run a v6 bamboostyle on the mk3 theyr cheap and with chbclone nozzle really good

Thanks for doing this! Did you change any other settings in the slicer or on the printer other than the ones mentioned in the video?

Please keep it going with more challenging prints!

I just gave a friend my volcano... i wish i had considered this

In your triad, I would replace melt with "extrusion system". Even with plenty melt capability, without the filament grip and extrusion force to overcome backpressure, you won't get high flow.

I don't believe the melt zone length Logic. I think the bottleneck is almost always motor torque, especially if your using a CHT.

I have always thought the cooling on my mk3 was not good enough. Has that changed on the mk4? Clearly it is going to be more important with your volcano mod. I would love to see a video comparing stock cooling vs upgraded.

I wonder if this would be workable with the MMU3

Does a Revo handle this better with HF?

There is a quite good reason why to set lower limit for PET even when the nozzle can melt more (see Prusa and Bambu printers for example). So comparing 9.5 vs 20 may not make much sense.

Could you please describe the settings you made in prusa slicer? Did you just change the max volumetric speed? I also think you forgot the thermistor in your list. :) Do you use a 0.4mm Nozzle?

why didn't you test the CHT nozzle on the nextruder? If the V6 results are anything to go by, it would be VERY close to the volcano results, without needing the larger heater block. More powerful heater might still be needed, though.