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Power supplies are some of the most dangerous electronics to work on if you're not familiar and comfortable with high voltage safety. If you're sure it's the power supply, you could do best by replacing the entire supply rather than troubleshooting it. It looks like the KAG100 power supply can be found for <$100. If you really want to troubleshoot it, you'll need to find a wiring diagram and test all known voltages as I'm doing in this video to find the component that isn't doing its job.

IKR -- I wasn't expecting it to be quite that nice first time out. This was with a 0.4mm nozzle. I swapped over to a 1.0mm last night and I'm getting some bubbling in my first layers now more like I expected as I'm printing on glass and my current setup can only get it up to 40C or so. Tronxy has a 800mm spring steel/PEI print surface that I want to try before investing in upgrading the heater.

​@@cilynx I find it funny because I've got one sat in my basket, and then your video pops up while doom scrolling 😅 How well do you think it would work on a 120mm~ build plate?

You asking about the Eddy? I've been playing with it on a 250mm Kossel and an 800mm cart. The hardest thing seriously is just finding a good way to mount it. I'm going to have to redesign my fan shroud on the Kossel and the whole spindle mount on the Onefinity to get away from rubber bands and zip-ties. For software, ignore everything BTT says -- the Eddy is supported in mainline Klipper as of a few days ago -- everything other than temperature compensation and I haven't found that to be a problem -- just follow Klipper's docs and it'll work. The other thing I ran into on the big bed is that my total surface delta was like 5mm and Eddy can really only handle <4mm. My build plate is really a wallboard for dry-erase markers, so it's not the most precisely manufactured thing in the world so it's a bit of a bowl. The center is already held up by the heating coil, so I printed up some clips to pull the four corners down and now I'm able to do high-quality meshing. Looking at the heighmap in Mainsail, 20x20 seems to cover this size well.

@@cilynx I'm debating if I should put one onto the PrintABlok printer I'm designing/building

It's a world better than piezo or bltouch-style for sure.

I originally bought two with sequential serial numbers. One was fine and the other DOA. I warrantied the dead one and the replacement works well. They let me keep the dead one, so I'm working on figuring out the actual problem. I'm thinking it's likely the thermistor that checks for over-temperature.

@@cilynx The one I brought home popped when I connected something that was a little 600w. After that that when it stopped working. I don’t think their breaker switch is very reliable. I noticed when they popped, you can smell the plastic.

@@mrmeza78 interesting -- I've not had one pop and release the magic smoke. It she's sound like something burned up in yours. Mine never powered anything successfully.

I've started trying to avoid water shooting directly on "sealed" VU meters. Never had one die, but I've had them get condensation inside that takes days or weeks to evaporate and there's no way to open them up to speed things along.

That's how it was when I got it -- picked up the pair cheap because the original woofers were already gone and replaced with the pyles. I'd much rather have originals and will replace the pyles if I ever come by a pair.

I ran into similar and ended up shimming the build plate on the low side as software never got it good enough.

I've heard some folks who can't use traditional stabilizer clamps have used steel shims inside the receiver tube to make for a tighter fit -- might be something to explore. I also cannot overstate the importance of using stabilizing straps and not relying on just the hitch receiver to keep things stable.

I picked this one up a few years ago for $250 in unknown condition and have kept it in service since cleaning it up. 2015s generally sell for $400-700 in good working order, depending on how clean they are and if they've been recently serviced.

I've played around with various options and not seen a lot of difference. I usually do a quick wash at default temperature without soap unless the unit is full of nicotine buildup. For the really nasty ones, I go for longer cycles and/or soap. It's all about risk. Hotter, longer, soapier all increase the risk of water getting inside of components and destroying them.

@@cilynx thanks for your quick response. I have a Onkyo TX-2500 receiver which i bought on eBay and when it came, it was filthy and smell awful. I managed to get grime out of it but i still can’t get rid of the smell, and it gets worse when the unit is powered on.

I've only used it a few times and only on paved roads. It's very easy to use, but it squiks me out every time. Hasn't shown any sign of failing, but I stare at it / the bike in the mirrors compulsively waiting for it to fail the entire time I'm driving with it.

I get the vast majority of my LEDs from projectblk86 on eBay. He operates out of northern California, has substantial stock on hand, and works directly with manufacturers to ensure function and quality. If you can't find a listing in his store with exactly what you need, just drop him a line and he'll hook you up. www.ebay.com/str/projectblk86

Check out the very end of th-cam.com/video/369mpzqM-8E/w-d-xo.html

Mine cleaned up by just working it full range back and forth about 100 times. It still had a tiny bit of scratch at one spot fairly high up on the volume dial when I sold it, but better that than risk destroying the pot entirely.

Sadly, I'm not going to be much help here. I had to pack up my shop since making this video and all of my equipment and manuals are currently in storage. I never found a digital copy of the service manual for this unit and wound up ordering one on eBay. It looks like they're still pretty available there for ~$20 shipped. That's probably your best bet. Good luck!

For scratching sounds when you move the knobs, you need to get the cleaner inside the electronics of the potentiometer. If you take the physical knob off then shoot cleaner along the post towards the back of the pot, you might get lucky and get enough in there, but to really do it right you need to take the receiver apart and shoot cleaner in the holes in the back of the pots. Any 8-ohm speakers should be fine. What is yours doing when you turn the volume higher than 1?

thats funny i have the same, they definetley dont work well together. I am getting another power amp.

I still really like the LP-2051 for relatively high power from a small unit with tone control and I use mine for ad-hoc projects fairly often. I've not played with the AIYIMA T9. I have an A07 and its price-performance is hard to beat for flat amplification. Personally, I like tone control, so I almost never actually use the A07. With the T9, looks and heat come into play as well. If you like the retro fusion look, the T9 will look good sitting on a shelf. My LP-2051 generally winds up getting shoved behind or inside things where no one sees it, which I'd be less inclined to do with a T9 with hot tubes sticking out the top.

I know what you mean I currently have a kinter 2020a and I like it so much that I use it over my more expensive Sony. Looking to upgrade in the future and want something with hifi bluetooth, remote, sub output. Any suggestions?@@cilynx

@@johnnybravo4976 -- Kinter has the 2024BT which uses a real (but fairly low power) Tripath chip. It's ok, but uninspiring, IMO. I'm currently using two ZK-1002Ts as Bluetooth daily drivers. You can find them branded as Fosi Audio or pay half the price for a no-name of the same model. I have one of each and other than the screen printing have seen/heard no difference. I'm not generally a fan of subwoofers and prefer to drive full spectrum speakers that can make the lows I'm looking for. In one listening space, I'm driving Klipsch RP-600Ms, which have outstanding lows for a speaker of their size. In my other listening space, I'm driving HPM-1500s which sound/feel better than any subwoofer to my ear.

Looking into the zk1002t might potentially buy one. Any other recommendations?@@cilynx

I also have the Aiyima A07 works great. I fell in love with the Tripath sound many years ago. Is it still made? I thought I read they had gone out of business and there was just left over stock. I might pull the trigger on the LP-2051. Aiyima claims 300W times 2 on Amazon it is 32V 5A. The LP-2051 is sold a little cheaper on Aliexpress. I wonder if the quality of Lepy is less? I pulled out a "brand new" LP-2020A that had been around the house for a few months in the box but doesn't work. After buying the initial Tripath I've played with many others but don't have the technical skill to run the numbers like you've done which is fun to see. I like the SMSL SA-50 but the power supply just died. My favorite is the Aiyima for the express power. Parts Express does have a LP-2020AD on sale for $20 with power supply. What's an AD? @@cilynx

A functioning diode will pass current in one direction and not the other. You can do a continuity test and if swapping the leads gives you either continuity or not then your diode is basically working. Generally when they fail, they short in which case you'll have continuity no matter which way you put the test leads. The diode packs in the rectifier have either the anodes or cathodes of the diodes connected together depending on which side of the bridge you're on. When testing the packs, test from each diode lead to the common frame.