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@@adamhoneybun1166 If it feels right it probably is right! Yes, rebound on 3 is pretty quick which is fine for sport riding on the road but not so much for regular mixed riding. Good that there is so much adjustment and you are getting it dialed in for you.

@@clarkstreetcustoms Appreciate the reply wanted to check as the manual says they should be the same amount of clicks both sides 🤷‍♂️

You are all good mate. No worries! Question A: the "top knob" is the adjuster for compression damping (on the right fork) and rebound damping (on the left fork) so you are right these are "setting adjuster(s)". The nut is for spring preload. Question B: I meant clicks (you will hear them and feel them). Question C: There are no graduation marks on the adjuster on the bottom of the rear shock. Think of it like a clock. "0.75" is 3/4 of a turn left from the fully clockwise position. Just turn the adjuster fully clockwise with your screwdriver and then turn it left the amount you want e.g. 0.5 equals half a turn anticlockwise etc.

@@clarkstreetcustoms So I turned the nut, with my 19m wratchet wrench..and it wont stop turning ? (not the adjuster, the nut) ?

@@kee7678 Yep. Keep going. It’s about 20 turns to full preload.

@@clarkstreetcustoms To the RIGHT...? I went full HALF turns with the wratchet like 40 times...? still keeps turning.......

@@clarkstreetcustoms I've gone over 35 and it's still turning....? is something wrong with it?? I"m leaving for a moto camping riding trip tomm....

@@haeloglobal5725 Alas, it is not for sale. It has been in our family since new purchased by my Grandfather. My eldest son will inherit it. Thanks for the kind words. It is a beautiful example and gets many positive comments when it gets out on sunny days! Good luck with your search.

@@Colin-From-Corby-yy4vb Colin - thank you for your kind words. People who see the car today often make that comment that it still looks “modern” coming up 50 years after its launch. Timeless is a good word 🙏

@@kevinmcelroy1802 The “nuts” on the forks I think you are referring too (which require a 19mm socket or spanner) are for preload. The “nipples” are to adjust the compression damping (right fork) and rebound damping (left fork). So in some respects you are right that they are for “fine tuning” adjustments. They do make a big difference to the way the bike rides and feels as I talk about in the video.

@@ginobulo no problems at all getting the bike on the centre stand.

@@ginobulo And try placing your right hand under the subframe near the accessory outlet and lifting up while pulling back with your left hand on the handle bar. Seems to work easily for me.

@@joaochantre4160 You are correct. 10.5 turns. Thanks for the settings that work for you 🙏

When you say turns, do you mean 360 degree turns on the handle?

@@danielpineda3656 Hello. A 30mm drop means 30mm less ground clearance so yes, you do have to be a bit more careful but you do have a lot of ground clearance to start with on the Tiger 900 RP.

@@clarkstreetcustoms Thank you for your reply!! Why don't you try a low rider seat? I found some really cheap in eBay

@@danielpineda3656 Thanks. I have the Triumph low seat fitted. This retains the heating. Have found it very comfortable.

@@clarkstreetcustoms sorry if i ask again, jeje, i don't understand the "low seat fitted". I found one in 50usd, i love to put my legs on the ground, but my butt doesn't feel the same jaja.

@@danielpineda3656 What I meant was I had the official Triumph accessory ‘low’ seat fitted when I bought the bike. This has the factory heated seat option built in. It costs more than USD50 but is worth it IMHO to keep the factory look, seat heating and get your feet flat on the ground.

@@iainwilson4463 Good idea Iain.

@@sweetbarry Hahah! I agree. It is just a little harder to find a kit for that!

@@Yippynutsmacker I think the Type-X Pro has higher standard of filtering. I’ll be checking whether there are any issues with EMI (and RFI) with held held radios and devices in Project Rad Rav.

@clarkstreetcustoms I've got type x pros on my big rig, they seem to be holding up well, I tested them using an rf analyzer, they are way better then the chineese lights, but I also run 4 lightforce htx 2s on my powee wagon, the lightforce advertise the rfi filtering on the box, I tested them and that are about 90% quiet. But those lights are almost twice the price of the pro x. I'm interested in the new lights from lightforce, " the beast" too bad lightforce pulled out of north America

I left the stock one on and it is working ok. The angle is less steep but not as much as I feared and it doesn't look weird or feel like its about to tip. You wouldn't want to park it on a uphill slope to your left or have the left of the bike facing into a real strong wind, but I never did that anyway. I always use the centre stand if I'm going to leave the bike for any decent length of time. A bonus is it is a whole lot easier to pick up off the side stand!

@@clarkstreetcustoms thanks. Thinking of lowering my GT Pro. Always on my tip toes!!🙄🙄

Also, I live in a right-hand-drive market (we drive on the left side of the road) so the side stand with the factory height was a real pain when parked on the side of the road. The steep road camber (i.e. big drop off to the left) on our country roads made it real hard to pick the bike up off the side stand fully loaded. It's now a lot easier. For those riding and parking on the right hand side of the road, the stock side stand might be an issue and replacing it with the Tiger GT Pro side stand is probably a good thing to do.

@@GavinCummings-b7r Yes, I would totally recommend based on my experience. I have so much more confidence with my feet (close) to flat now when pulling up at a stop light or very slow speed work in a carpark or offroad.

Good to hear it really worked for you.

What did that cost you?

$1065AU

What springs (manufacture and weight) did you put in?

@@TimZ750 No idea, I took it to a suspension specialist, no way I have the smarts to do it. I gave the guy my gear total ride weight including gear and tools and the forks were re valved and sprung to suit. I will replace the rear shock, it's more effective to replace it than try and tune it. Wilburs make a good replacement shock.

i would like it! thank you!!

I would like that too!!! Please.

@@kee7678 I have added these in the description section. All the best for you ride coming up.

@@mtnszr1877 Hi there. The settings I talked about in the clip which work well for me and my wife and luggage: FRONT: Preload: Minimum (fully anticlockwise). Compression (right fork): 6 clicks from fully clockwise. Rebound (left fork): 6 clicks from fully clockwise. REAR: Preload (right side, top of shock) Maximum (fully clockwise). Rebound (left side, bottom of shock): 0.75 turns anticlockwise from fully clockwise position. Let me know how that works for you!

@@enkeierick On road it feels the same. I did a road loop two days ago I’ve ridden many times and the bike felt its normal excellent self. I did touch down my right boot once but that was because I was close to home and riding lazy and had my toes hanging. I haven’t done any serious off road yet as I recover from a broken leg. Given the way it feels on road (pretty much exactly the same), I’d expect it to be just as good, albeit with 30mm less ground clearance. I can put up with that given the confidence the lowering as had on slow speed manoeuvring and stopping. Overall, very happy so far.

@@SebastianHubrich-e1f Yes, should be the OS-24 Combo (2x12 litre). The Moto Reckless 40 have a good reputation. Can’t speak for the fitment on the 900 RP. As you say, if that had to go over the passenger grab rails, it would make them very wide. The narrow fitment of the Kriega on the RP is a big advantage.

I think so too!

Thanks for the feedback 😊

Great to hear!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks @woodstovemeister1. To my knowledge the Rover SD1 was never sold in Japan. The UK, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Canada were the main markets.

@@clarkstreetcustoms 日本だけではないと思いますが旧車が大人気です。今の車のデザインはどれも同じなので車好きは個性的な古い車に興味を持っています。 個性的なデザインの車が本当に減ってしまい新車が欲しいとは感じなくなりました。😓

The chain tension will need adjusting after installing the lowering kit. Let me know how you get on after doing that.

@@clarkstreetcustomsso after adjusting the chain the noise went away. Now it seems as my front fork is oscillating. Liking like like if a wheel isn’t true. That isn’t the case since it has 1000 miles and hasn’t been off roading or hitting potholes. Even if I coast, especially the slower I feel as if the front suspension is hit constant bumps even though the the surface is completely smooth. When I did lower the front forks, I did have to turn the left fork 180 degrees to make it move. I don’t know if that might have bonded anything internally. Any ideas?

@@bucpeeba08 Did you return the left fork to the original position? How worn is your front tyre? A worn front tyre can cause oscillation and bar shake at certain speeds. I’d check all the basics (tyre wear, tyre pressure, suspension settings back to factory etc.). If it is still feeling weird, try removing the front wheel, check the fork movement and that nothing is binding. If it is still not right, you might need trip to the dealer to check the forks. Hope that helps.

It is the OS-Base Universal Fit. kriega.com/os-base-rackless/os-base Kriega don't make a custom OS-base for the Tiger. Not sure why not, perhaps because the Universal fit works quite well with a bit of adjustment. Add a comment if you'd like to see a a video on how I fitted it.

@@clarkstreetcustoms yes please - we have the universal but seems a bit small across the seat

Peter, muchas gracias por tu comentario. You know your C10 trucks. I like the way Chevrolet/GMC called the colours of the trucks just by the colour name. The cars were given fancy names like "Mediterranean Blue". Like you said, The trucks just got "Red", "Green", "Black" or in the case of our truck "White & Medium Blue" (Option No. 531). This got shortened to "White & Med Blue" on the Service Parts Identification label inside the glovebox lid (see 2:08 in the video).

@@martinbaldam6676 Remove the two bolts underneath the beak and then pull it firmly towards the front of the bike. There are two retaining clips which will break free but won’t break. So basically just a reversal of the way it was reattached in the video. Hope that helps.

The two bolts are 5mm Hex just to the rear on each side of the horn as you look underneath the beak.

@@clarkstreetcustoms thank you I'll try that later, thanks for the help.

@@clarkstreetcustoms thank you, finally got it removed…

Good question. Thanks for asking. No issues so far. The angle on the side stand at the standard height was quite steep so with the 30mm drop, it looks 'normal' and doesn't feel like its going to tip on a flat surface. Certainly a lot easier to lift off the sidestand now. Haven't had it fully loaded, two-up yet (still nursing the broken leg) so will post up if there is any issues there.

What about center stand. Is it harder to get it up on it? I cannot get it up on center stand anymore after lowering it. Maybe if I fiddle with suspention settings a bit. Just got it so havent tried that yet.

@@ginobulo I haven’t had any issues getting the bike on the centre stand. I find putting my right hand on the subframe (near the accessory power outlet) and lifting up makes it easier.

@@ginobulo I haven’t had any issues getting the bike on the centre stand. I found that putting my right hand under the subframe near the accessory power outlet and lifting up while pulling back with my left hand on the handlebar works well.

Scroll through to 17:50 to see the old tent I use. Need a lightweight option for sure.