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I see you are using the Boss GT-Pro with this! That's my intention too.

Hola, que tal? Tengo el FCB 1010 y me gustaria poder controlar la sección de grabacción del CUBASE 12 ARTISTS (Inicio, grabar, detener, avanzar, rebobinar y activar ciclo), entonces te pregunto se sebes como lo puedo hacer? Desde ya muchas gracias por cualquier información. Lo que pasa es que como soy guitarrista, me cuesta mucho estar cambiando del teclado para guitarra y lo revés porque cuando pienso en el teclado ya se me ha hido toda la concentración de la guitarra y esto es un rollo. Una vez muchas gracias

Oh my! THere are some killer mods! I came up with couple of mods too: 1.Change the springs of the footswitches to more soft, because in my opinion original ones are too stiff. 2. Add foam rubber soft pads under the expression pedals to reduce hitting sound(it's useful for bedroom use, bc the noise was relatively loud).

I have this problem with my unit which first started manifesting a couple of weeks ago. What I don't understand is how a potentiometer could be producing constant random pulses when it isn't being touched. It seems to me like there is an issue with static build up of some kind. If it's an issue with the connection berween the wiper and the terminal surely this could be easily fixed with a bit of soldering.

This video has many errors and I advise against following this procedure which I have also tested: it is wrong! 1)The potentiometers don't fit in the chassis and the cover has to be filed 2) the values of the potentiometers are wrong (the volume does not reach good but low levels) 3) the rotation of the potentiometers is in reverse Maybe it's better to remove video or fix it with more effective solutions.

I'm looking for foot controller that can change midi channels so I can work with my 16 fx units?

Can it change midi channels?

Thanks so much for all tips! I have replaced all switches by myself and now i have a brand new fcb1010!!

What the music in background ? Very intrigued me :)

Hello, Anyone knows how to disable them ? I tried to disable them in Windows but they keep making/picking up noises, and still are detectable in DAW's. Also still detectable incoming sound on all meters, on the motu and in all DAW's and so on...

I considered doing this modification for some time but ended up not using the front inputs until eventually it drove me nuts seeing the LEDs flicker randomly without a mic attached. Today I had really had enough and decided to do a touch more research into why this happens. Just below and slightly to the rear of the trim board there is the voltage reference circuit for mic/guitar 1 and 2 respectively. With the removal of 4 SMD and addition of 4 standard resistors I managed to switch where the voltage reference about and eliminate the problem. While this worked for me I do not recommend thios for anyone who has shaky hands or poor soldering skills as this really tested mine to the limit.

The Internet, and YT can be treasure box and THIS video, Sir, is SUPERB! Thank you 😊☺️🙏🏿

Hi Bob, today I installed a expression pedal range mod. This is the only source with regard to that topic I found. I used some old neutral filter foils from my cam equipment to limit the brightness detected by the sensor. So, the CC value changes simultanously with the movement. But on pedal 1 I have at the end of the movement 5 mm dead space after reaching the 127. Pedal 2 delivers exactly 0 to 127 from stop to stop. I calibrated them after the mod. The strange thing is, during calibration you can notice that there are values detected on pedal 1 at the end of the movement , it changes the shown values. Is that a software problem? Thanks for that video. Even after 6 years it was quite helpfull.

Excellent Video, that is what home programming is all about and this is what led to the modern PC

I was able to find 6x6x4.5 switches on Aliexpress. So I hope that they will be ideal without washers, which are most probably about 0.5 mm. I'm going to replace broken switches with them.

Hey guys, sorry its a bit unrelated but I'm just putting it out there as I am stuck. I just fitted a new UNO chip, configured it, tried using this editor for windows; www.fcb1010.uno/ It's letting me receive patch dump from the FCB but not letting me export anything. I joined the group but I can't see anyway to get a activation code or even anywhere to enter one to enable me to get the board working. There is a payment link on the Mac software D/L button but not the windows and all the forums are dead.. I'm Win10 64, i7 16gb Presonus Audiobox US 96 I'm just trying to get it to communicate with guitar rig 5 in stomp box mode. All the manuals are overcomplicated and might as well be written in Latin, can anyone out there please help me?! thanks.

plastic bag over the sensors worked perfectly for me! I finally have full range in my pedals :D

Thank you so much!

hi woud you know why i have a dot flashing to the left of the channel numbers it wont go off?

Very cool mods you made. I'm having an idea also to make some mods (well mostly 1: using an STM32 or Arduino instead of the current firmware). I'm wondering if it is 'easy' to read the pedal values, and same to read the switches (although I could possibly create some new kind of 'board' inside, or solder directly to the legs, leaving the current PCB unused).

I ended up doing this mod but slightly differently as I couldn't find a type of pot which I could dismantle and rejig as Bob has cleverly done here. I realised that the 2k pot is the volume control for the XLR input and the 20K pot is for the 1/4" jack input. So I left the 2 Gang 22K and a 2 gang 2K as they are. So my left control is for both XLR inputs and my right control, controls both 1/4" inputs. It means that the levels of both inputs will always have to be set the same but I can live with that. I got around the problem of the action being reversed by turning the pots around 180 degrees and attaching the shaft to the back of the pot. I used pots from manufacturer Piher. (They are the black plastic ones available on ebay at the moment). They have a small hole down the centre of the shaft at the back which I drilled out slightly to take the shaft of a 'cotton bud' and did the same to the original shaft and super-glued them together. I mounted the pots on a piece of veroboard, making use of the original PCB mounting screw points. so no front panel modifications were necessary. I just had to remove (grind off) one of the unused upstands from the inside of the lid (they're all over the place) where it was hitting one of the pots. For this I used a dremel tool. It works a treat.

Hi! in my country I can't find log A pot. Can I use linear potentiometers with the same values? 2k and 20k? Thank you so much. Best regard!

what gauge wire are you using?

Brilliant video and brilliant explanations also. 👍

A question: May i use an A22K in couple with an A2K?

Cleaned mine with contact cleaner. No need to replace them. You just have to flush them.

Hi Bob. In my case the problem was caused by blown capacitor. Two times already. th-cam.com/video/zVey-8ROmZY/w-d-xo.html

i want you as my recording engineer

This looks great. I am considering doing it to my 828. But I would like to ask. If on the replacement pots I used the centre pin and right pin, rather than the centre pin and the left pin would the pot work in the normal clockwise direction rather than anti-clockwise?

Just make a midi / 110 volt cord snake with 2 dollar electric tape... Loll

Is it possible to send CC messages and PC messages with the same button on the FCB1010? If not by default, can the EPROM mod do it?

do you have any idea for how could i fix the usb input port, coz i guess mine had fried by a lightning bolt, would you possibly have any suggestions...thx

Hello, Nice work/vídeo. Very usefull. I was searching this type of modif to my FCB1010 I'm thinking about something similar, but: I would like to use pins 1,5 to feed the FCB and to feed a wah pedal from ibanez (weapping daemon). But the Current is diferent: 9v DC yo Ibanez 9v/12v (i'm not sure) AC. So the power must be rectified. I wonder: ¿Wich element I can put yo change de Current? ¿Is there any posibility, to feed the FCB in other point, where de Current needed is 12v DC? I mean, maybe the FCB has itself a rectifier in other point. (I'm mechanical, not electrical...so I don't understand so deep this issues) Best regards and thanks in advance !

Based on your video, I've made a similar EXP pedal mod but in another way: I put black tape on the LEDs/sensors surroundings to avoid reflections on the aluminum surfaces, and twisted both LEDs to the side, to decrease the amount of light that goes to the sensor. The result was awsome, but I noticed that the left pedal was getting a bit of the right LED luminosity, so I added a "wall" (also made of tape) to avoid that problem. Another thing I've made is to put a piece of tape on the black part of the plastic shaft, so the light wont go trouhg it anyway (just in case). Now both pedals go from 0 to 127 in all the range of motion!!! Probably, an even better mod would be the adding of a LED trim potenciometer, so we could adjust the LED luminosity with a lot more ease... But since I have no eletronics skills, I prefered a more "physical" solution. Lesson learned: optical sensors SUCK!

man you got to show this thing in operation...would love to know i could actually fix this unit ,,because other than this crackle it work great....and my budget wont allow.

I have the fb200 and a gsp100 both roland. The fb200 has a note mode to act as a pedalboard. The description is not very useful and i cant seem to get it to work...any assistance would help. Thanks, John Dartt

ingenious, just did it. works like a clock!! thank you!!

how can i do switches with one shot...I had Kepler but i changed because i thought that it was matter...

You are amazing! Thank you

Tony Macalpine in the background?

Pretty amazing mods, man. Whole 'nuther level.

I've watched the whole thing and I don't even play guitar...

Fantastic tutorial and very elegantly explained. Hat's off to you sir.

You lost me the first 20 seconds! I'm just going to go buy another interface. I've had mine since 2003 (14 years ago). I figured that's a good lifespan, so I'm off to buy another interface. (Might get one with fewer inputs/outputs).

Hi Bob Thanks for sharing your smart and brilliant modifications on the FCB1010 to make it more reliable I have few questions regarding the equipmentl you are using What is the reference of the cable you have used to have MIDI + Power and also what is the reference of the micro switch you have used Great job Fred

you are a master sir, and I am now a loyal subscriber

Hello, and excuse me for my poor english.I try to operate my loop station by FCB 1010 ,I set it up, I make first button to send CC mesage for start /stop.Everything works, but I need to push 2 times(Fcb 1010) to make loopstation start and then push 2 time (Fcb 1010 button)to stop.How I can fixed it and to push only one time for one command.

Outstanding. I have a rather dated TC Electronics G Major and I intended on bringing her back into the mix so to speak. The Behringer controller was going to be my choice. This type of interaction would make this a viable option. Thank you.

Great info thanks for your email!

Somebody asked me for the ARDUINO CODE for the CTRL mod, here it is: /** ******************************************************* BEHRINGER FCB1000 CTRL button modification Make it possible to use one button of the FCB1000 as a push ON-push OFF instead of toggle only. On the Effects rack it will be possible to use it as it is or toggle again. Written by Bob Axx starting 26 august 2014 */ /* UPDATES: 2014-08-05 ******************************************************* Hardware: - BEHRINGER FCB1000 Midi pedalFCArduino Mega - Arduino Mini Pro 5V Circuit: ARDUINO GND GND from FCB1000 VCC 5V from FCB1000 D2 (in) button from FCB1000 (not the grounded one) D9 (out) where that button is connected (input of FCB1000) D13 (out) additional LED */ boolean pressed = false; void setup() { pinMode (2, INPUT); // activate input with pull-up resistor digitalWrite(2, HIGH); pinMode (10, OUTPUT); // activate button as unpressed digitalWrite(10, LOW); pinMode (9, OUTPUT); // turns on additional LED digitalWrite(9, HIGH); analogWrite(9, 40); } /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// void loop() { if ((!pressed) &&(digitalRead(2) == LOW)) // pressed button reading { // NOISE & BOUNCE filter, accepts only double confirmed reading delay (4); if ((digitalRead(2) == LOW)) // still pressed 1 { digitalWrite(10, HIGH); delay (10); digitalWrite(10, LOW); analogWrite(9, 255); pressed = true; } } if ((pressed) &&(digitalRead(2) == HIGH)) // release button reading { // NOISE & BOUNCE filter, accepts only double confirmed reading delay (5); if ((digitalRead(2) == HIGH)) // still released { digitalWrite(10, HIGH); delay (10); digitalWrite(10, LOW); analogWrite(9, 40); pressed = false; } } }