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No, I took the hose off of the valve cover that would run to the turbo and put a draft tube on it, a piece of 3/4 oil safe hose that runs down just below the oil pan to atmosphere, you also have to make sure you cap or plug the intake tube when you do it.

Thank you I appreciate that!! Maybe one of these days who knows.

The texture is no big deal, you want to take the shine off with scotch bright then use high build primer, spray and sand, do that over and over until your happy then paint. It’s a summarized version but works really well.

Swap the world!!!

Thank you man! I need to get busy

@@Cargill450 I need to produce better content more consistently

@cadilakisrodcustom your content has been getting better and better, I enjoy watching

@Cargill450 I appreciate you man! I recently upgraded my camera so I'm back on the learning curve lol

@cadilakisrodcustom I need to get a better camera setup, the GoPro is great but damn does it like to over heat

Sure did, just a typical draft tube.

It was there I promise

The Insane filter looks the same as my Australian Jackmaster Classic but it is a lot prettier.

There are several 1 micron filters now. In the 60s all we had was Frantz and Motor Guard. Multi grade oils were crap. Delo 30W and 20W were about the best oils you could buy. I dont plan on paying up to 50 bucks for something as good as toilet paper at cleaning oil.

I used Castrol R 30 racing oil in the motorcycle. Not very economical.

Thank you!

This one a friend actually found for me but every now and then they will pop up on marketplace, at least that’s where I look for them.

In all honesty, on the console the far right is good. Middle and left not so much and the down low cup holders you already know about them.

They are the same dimensions as the factory mirrors

Don’t be fooled by a little color in your oil make sure you do samples periodically to see the actual health of the oil, you will be surprised

I like the factory shifter over the shorter shifter, you had me thinking on that one because I couldn’t remember if I did or not

@@Cargill450 yeah I’m currently torn between doing another one of the fx1200 organic clutches but driving a little smart or doing the ceramic fx1200. My power levels technically should have a ceramic but the organic held pretty well until I did stupid things while driving with it. Like not downshifting when I should to pull with someone on the highway and heat soaked the clutch really bad. I’m running the b&m short throw shifter and absolutely love it. It takes a couple thousand miles to break it in so it’s not so stiff but once you get it worn in it’s a dream shifting

@TheWheeler2299 they are tough clutches that’s for sure but just be ready for the thing to be a light switch on engagement. I really want to do the B&M tower one of these days, I have heard nothing but good about them.

As far as the arrows you have duration and sensitivity, it’s a lot of preference really but it all depends on what you like and a little bit of how quick the boost comes on

@@Cargill450 mam truly appreciate... now at 400 torque 35 psi

@chuckbarquero5327 definitely play with it, I would think you might want the sensitivity at 1/3 duration start in the middle

If I remember right it’s just a little 1.4 or 1.5 CFM compressor

Not yet, I really really need too but I have been dragging my feet to no end.

Well......get to it! 😅

That vice needs some T.L.C. And we don’t get along most days so I didn’t even want to fool with it.

I’m pretty sure we used all 3

@@Cargill450 ok now I’m wondering if I should of done all 3 I only did 2, I have a fuel filter housing delete kit coming in. I’m going to do that and see if it fixes my problem if not I may go back and put the 3rd one in.

What are you fighting?

What are you fighting?

@@Cargill450 so I have an 07 lbz that gave me the p0087 low fuel rail pressure. I’ve added a lift pump and it still has some trouble keeping up. Usually when I start in lower gears and get on it it’s fine but not always. It happens when I’m in higher gears and need to get on it to pass someone the actual isnt keeping up with the desired pressure. So I shimmed it only using 2, I’m watched another vid prior to doing it and I’m not sure if it was true or not but he said 2 will stiffen it up so it doesn’t open as easily and 3 will pretty much keep it closed. I don’t if there is any truth in that or not.

They work great

I would go with the Haynes manual, the Chilton is pretty good too I have just always preferred the Haynes.

how much is a Kleenoil filter kit worth? I cant seem to find a price.

Its probably a roll of toilet paper in a sock. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine. Been using toilet paper since 1963 starting with a Frantz oil cleaner. I went with the top loaders in the 80s.

Any filter that looks like toilet paper is as good as toilet paper.

@@ralphwood8818 We've done over 4 million km on filters that use toilet paper as the filter medium. The tightly rolled TP works best or two ply... but we've never had a problem even with a normal toilet roll. N.B. AKT told us they used Sorbent two ply specially rolled tightly for them. 🙂

So let me start by saying the idea is solid and maybe there are a few things we could have done different but after running the truck for about a week to see how it acted compared to the cts he had in the truck we ditched the clipsense and got all the correct fittings to put the sensor in the line like it should be done in the first place. cool idea if it would have worked but at the end of the day the best reading will always be in the line.

@@Cargill450 thanks for the reply. I am installing the same gauges and wanted to avoid cutting into the transmission line but the clipsense almost seemed “too easy to be true”😂 otherwise clean install I like your videos!

@jimtie9007 I really wish it would have worked good and maybe you could insulate it better then we did and have it work better but when you started down the road the wind would cool the sensor

Correct

How did you find the wires you needed to tap into? I just got mine and going to start installing this weekend

@roberttilaro3462 the best way is to find wiring diagrams but what year is your truck, I can double check my wire colors and let you know what I taped into

It’s not a whole lot, it has a s367 turbo with a BD manifold, 10mm cp3 and a few other odds and ends exhaust is 4 inch straight also

How frequently do you change the oil in terms of miles?

I normally dont drain oil. I probably change the filter and add more new make up oil than most. My Australian Jackmaster Classic is similar but is a little drab with a green color. I expect the oil in my gasoline engines to always stay clear. The diesel tractor oil will get black because some diesel soot is a lot smaller than 1 micron.

@@natealvarez16 I think it depends on the engine and your wear profile i.e. I change my oil at the normal intervals because my additive package has been depleted: TBN (Total Base Number) and viscosity are out of spec. You'll never pick up on this kind of stuff if you aren't doing oil analysis. The improved filtration reduces wear... so that's where the real win is. 🙂 P.S. I could run the oil much longer if I wanted to as wear has never been an issue due to bonding a lubricant to the metal (which reduces wear further).

I don’t have them anymore, I got rid of them a while ago

If I’m not mistaken the map sensor is where the truck is going to get its boost reading, I would look at that sensor but it’s a little odd that it didn’t mess with you until you changed the tubes

@@Cargill450 thanks bud, I will let you know when i get it sorted.

@tomsmith4484 yeah please do and if anything pops into my head I will let you know, I’m curious

@@Cargill450 so it was the IAT sensor. When I changed the connector, everything was fixed. No more CEL and the boost guage reads zero at idle. I got the pigtail from OEM connectors on Ebay for 16 bucks and it was excellent quality. The dealer wanted over 200 for the exact same part!

@tomsmith4484 so the connector was just pinned wrong?

It will do it every once in a while but not much

@@Cargill450 is there anything I need to do to run this monitor with a tune that’s already on the truck or would it be fine just plug and play?

@sickmansgas483 if you just but the monitor and not “with attitude” it will be fine

@@Cargill450 maybe you could give me some insight (pun intended) Got an issue- been running a raceme eco tune for about 7 months now with no issues. Defaults timing default trans settings. I just got my edge cts3 insight these last couple days. Set up the monitor yesterday and had my first drive with the truck to work today. When getting onto the highway Truck seemed to be completely gutless and would not up shift past fourth if I wasn’t going faster than maybe 50mph, rpm would sit around 2500 rpm. Any ideas if the monitor is interfering with the tune or maybe something else? I have a 400 mile road trip Saturday and need this truck asap

@sickmansgas483 is it possible to leave the raceme plugged in too or atleast plug it back in to see if it goes back to normal

I couldn't go without that lower storage.

Thank you! I really appreciate it. The thing has been a project for a while now and i couldn't be happier about where its at right now.

With the cover on no, it’s a bastard to get into the tool box