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Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Do you like the speakers? I think they sound pretty good for being in such a compact size. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Honestly, because of the out of the box damage, I returned it. When I went looking for another reasonably priced table top drill press, I decided to buy this: th-cam.com/video/aMKKk4_XiT4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AjyJKg7014gv8D-c and have not regretted it. Thanks for your question and for watching.

Thank-you. I do wish the Workmate was more stable so that's what inspired the video. I also have some plans to try and change the top. When I do that, I'll probably make another video about the Workmate. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Yes, I also tend to wear hearing protection and eye protection when cutting wood using a circular saw. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for the thumbs up!

Thank-you. As I was making the video, I tried to imagine the close-ups I'd want to see. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks! Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thank-you for your concern; I am fine. I'm guessing because I haven't posted anything new in quite a while you were worried. I am fine, honest. I had to change day jobs and that took a long time and I had many hoops to get thru. But I got thru the process successfully. Thru all of that though, I have been compiling ideas for new videos. So stay tuned! Is there anything you'd like to see a video (or a series of videos) on? Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for your comment and for watching.

No apology necessary. Yes, it is difficult to see the grid on the screen. Hopefully, you are able to see the simple drawing done in the video. I'm not sure how many other videos of mine you've seen (I do have a LibreCAD playlist available on my channel if you are interested), but I try to make videos that someone can follow along and do what I am doing to better learn and understand what I am teaching. If you did that, you'd be able to see things clearly on your own screen and use my video to see what to do. I hope this makes sense. I always encourage my viewers to follow along and do what I do when watching many of my videos. I hope you were able to learn a few things about using the Command Line in LibreCAD. The Command Line is a powerful way to interact with LibreCAD. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Yes, I thought the same thing when I first discovered them. If you don't try to cut too many sheets at the same time, they work pretty well. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Permanent hearing damage is no joke. I hope they start caring before permanent damage is done. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

You're very welcome. Thanks for you comment and for watching.

You're welcome. Good luck with your projects. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for your question. If you look around on my channel, you'll see I have tried several different methods for destroying (making unreadable) old paperwork. Out of all of the methods I have tried, I like using the blender the most. As you saw, I fill the blender with water, turn it on, and then insert a dry, rolled up sheet of paper. Once I hear the blender start to slow down, I dump the slurry into a strainer (to recover the water), dump the water back into the blender and repeat. The blender NEVER over heated. The blender's blade NEVER got dull. This process worked GREAT in my opinion. It does take some time to do and it is messy, but it does work. I ONLY tried it using rolled up, dry pieces of paper. I'm not sure what would happen if you tried to insert already wet paper into the blender. I can tell you that when I dumped a stack of paper into a bucket and let it sit (still) for several days, a lot of the papers just got stuck together. That's why I stick to inserting only dry paper into the blender. I hope this helps. Maybe get yourself an inexpensive blender and try it for yourself? To speed up the process the next time, I think I wouldn't bother trying to press the water out of the slurry; just add new water to the blender to make the next batch of slurry and dump into the strainer. Once the strainer is full, quite for a couple of days and see how much water naturally falls into the bucket from gravity. Hope this helps.

@@ImaginethenMake thanks for the update!

Thanks for your comment and for watching.

You're very welcome. Enjoy scrolling! Thanks for your comment and for watching.

I am glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.

I do not have a bench bull yet. Maybe one of these days. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

I think you're asking me why I cut the tire off in this way. Well, it was the first time I ever tried to do this. I tried a couple of other times later on (the videos are on my channel). Basically, I concluded that it is not worth my time to take the tire off of a steel rim to scrap the rim. Thanks for your comment an for watching.

I have heard from others as well that they really like these blades. I'll have to get some and try them out. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

I understand. Watch this: th-cam.com/video/K8uIcuQHOyI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-hPXD7EnQpWUylQd . I show you how to remove a tire from a rim without damaging the rim. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Credit is given for the music in the video description. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Yes, it is a lot of work to remove a tire from a rim without having the proper tools. I'm too stubborn to quit so I tried a few other times (the videos are on my channel). In the end, I also decided it is just not worth the effort. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

@@ImaginethenMake Thanks. I wondered before attempting something similar myself why no one just cutting them off, when breaking the bread is so hard. After all it's just rubber right? How wrong I was when I got out my aviation snips/hack saw etc. Decided that it's just easier to take to the local tip.

You and I have come to the same conclusion. Thanks for the comment and for watching.

Thanks for your comment. As you have noted, I have used different styles of work benches over the years. Black & Decker Workmate, HF wood bench, a large wooden kitchen table a neighbor was discarding, and an usual small bench I designed and built from 2x4's (videos are on this channel). I have toyed with the idea of building a heavy, permanent bench with built-in vises. I've once considered building a Moravian bench because it seems very robust yet still able to easily be broken down into basic pieces for transport or storage; I have a great set of plans but have not started the build yet. I realized that I basically gravitate toward simple with options. Now, I am using 2 folding sawhorses with a 1/2" thick piece of reclaimed MDF as of top. This bench is very easy to setup and take down so I have been typically setting it up outside; I really enjoy the fresh air while working on my projects. If I need to use a hammer, I make sure I am hammering over one of the sawhorse (to lessen table top bounce). If I am sawing (powered circular saw or a hand saw, I clamp the workpiece down to the top. If the top starts moving around, I can either add a concrete block to the top or I can clamp the top to the sawhorses. Simple. And I have options. I know that I could build a better top for the sawhorses; perhaps one day I will. I know that I could build a Moxon vise to add to the top; perhaps one day I will. I know that I could build my own saw horses if I needed a different height; and perhaps one day I will. Options. I hope this makes sense. Thanks again for your comment and for watching.

@@ImaginethenMake Sounds like you are well into maximizing the benefits from finding your own solutions - which I think is the best way for a lot of people. As I get older, I’m beginning to look at the road ahead and realizing it’s a lot shorter than the one behind. More and more that governs my thinking. As an old boss told me last year, he only buys annuals for the garden, as anything else is a risky investment - ha ha. Have you looked at the vids on bench bulls? I think they are a great thing to add to a Workmate. Another hack has a guy replacing the tables on a HF type bench, but raising the table with a second layer of plywood to create shelves between the old level and the new. A guy named Magnus. I’m tall so casters or raising the table height is very appealing. Thanks for your reply.

Bench bulls sound familiar, but I don't remember anything about them. Its funny to me that it has taken me YEARS to decide that the Workmate (to me) is really just a vice. For me, the tables are pretty small so unless my project is also small, I have found the Workmate does not really make a very good workbench. That's exactly why I tried adding the plywood as you saw in the video. This worked OK but not great. I gained a lot more surface area but only for items that do not weigh very much. But at the same time, I lost the use of the Workmate as a vice. It was a fun idea to try out, but in the end I don't use the plywood in the Workmate anymore. I'll do a search for Magnus and see what he has to say. Thanks for your comments; it has been fun chatting with you.

@@ImaginethenMake Bench bull in it’s simplest form is three pieces of 4x4 laying down on top of each other with the centre one being shorter (to clamp of down on the bench top.). Add dog holes on top and sides and you ban plane, chisel, cut wood at a comfortable height. Use hold downs, clamps etc to hold work down push work against like a bench hook. There are a few vids but one covers a bunch of mods/hacks/improvements/casters etc. you see the bench bull on the video photo. I’ve come back to the WM and smaller HF model like you have, because I know I’m not going to do anything big at the age I am. I like to putter and to hold things still while doing it. Watching these vids gets me thinking about doing small things in a small space and clearing out a lot of things I now know I won’t need or use. Best R

Thanks for you comment and for watching. Enjoy the saw. There is a lot you can do with it especially when working with small pieces.

@@ImaginethenMake The ads oversell it. A couple is shown carrying it out in the yard like they are going to use it to build a gazebo. A battery handsaw is a far better tool for that. But, most savvy users realize it's basically an upside down scroll saw and will be limited to small projects. It's not ripping long 2" thick boards.

Yes, the BladeRunner really isn't designed to rip 2x construction lumber. If I recall correctly, mine is limited to cutting pieces 1.5" thick or thinner (so 2x lumber just fits, but I would use it for only short cuts). I can tell you that I have enjoyed the portability of the saw. Quite a while ago, I needed a small saw at work so I brought my BladeRunner in and I was able to build what I needed to using it to make the cuts. So the built-in handle came in handing (pun intended - haha). Thanks for your comments and for watching.

Thanks for your comment and for watching. Enjoy the saw. Make some great projects!

@@ImaginethenMake Thanks. Got it yesterday. Have already used it for some small 1/4 inch plywood cuts. Doesn't take up much space on one end of my workbench. Cuts through 1 1/2 inch side of 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 (nominal 2x3) pine no problem if you go slow. I would only do this if the piece was too short to hold down with the left hand while cutting with a battery handsaw.

Glad you are enjoying the new saw. With a little imagination, you can make all kinds of cool stuff. Thanks for your comments and for watching.

This was the very first time I ever tried to remove an auto tire from a rim. At that time, I did not understand that there are many thin steel wires embedded in the bead so the best I could do was cut off most of the tire using a saws all. Why did I remove the valve first? Honestly, it was so long ago that I do not remember. Thanks for your comment and for watching. I tried a few other times to remove a tire from a rim while on camera; the videos are on my channel. With each attempt, I got a little wiser.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment and for watching.

The first piece of wood was a 1/4" thick piece of MDF. MDF is a man made product and can be purchased from home improvement stores like Home Depot. The 2nd piece was Luan. The piece I used was about 3/16" thick (a little thinner than the MDF). Luan is a type of plywood and can also be purchased at Home Depot. I think that Luan is more durable compared to MDF. If I were to build doll furniture, between the two choices, I would use MDF. Once the furniture piece is assembled, I'd seal the MDF with several coats sanding sealer and then paint. Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks. This really works great. Just wear thick gloves (i.e. winter or garden gloves) so the handle made from tape doesn't hurt your hand at all. This is especially important if the boxes are heavy. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for your comment, for subscribing, and for watching. Using inserts in wood has opened up a whole new range of new project possibilities.

Thanks. I was a fun animation to work on. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Yes, I guess I could have done that but I thought the tape would peel up after a while so I decided to take a crack at making a wooden insert that would last a really long time. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

You're welcome. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

There is a link in the video description that takes you to where you can buy the blade holders. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Sorry it was another holder I got my videos mixed up. I ordered these wonder of they take spiral blades

Spiral blades have flat ends (meaning no pins). I ordered these holder years ago when I first wanted to try spiral blades; my original blade holders only worked with pin end blades, the holder I ordered works with BOTH kinds of blades, flat and pinned. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for the compliment and for watching. Since you liked this one, you might like this one: th-cam.com/video/ulRmXe6Fcc4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=umKoOUKUEAf2Sl1h .

The idea was to see if there was an easy way to improve the design. In the end, I didn't make any changes. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for your comment and for watching.

I absolutely agree. I thought it might be useful to compare them because some people may only want to spend the money on 1 machine or the other and they are not sure which one would be right for them. I like both machines but if I had to pick one, I would probably pick the scroll saw. It might cut slower than the Bladerunner but it is A LOT quieter. I also think you can make more accurate cuts with the scroll saw since the blade is held in tension from both ends. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

I do not, sorry. Just out of curiosity, how much would you be willing to pay for plans? Thanks for your question and for watching.

@@ImaginethenMake 20-30 bucks...Jon Peters sells his about that much. most of them are 19.99.

Thanks for letting me know.

Thanks for your comment and for watching.

You're very welcome! Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Interesting question. I don't think I have ever seen anyone use a thickness jig with a hand plane. What I have seen many times is that a cut line is drawn on the stock. Then a hand saw (or circular saw or band saw or even a scroll saw) is used to cut close to the cut line removing most of the unwanted stock. Then a hand plane is used to plane down to the cut line. I have seen many examples where the hand plane is used to plane down to the cut line by watching the cut line as the planning occurs and making adjustments to where the plane is cutting. With each stroke of the hand plane and revaluating if you need to make any adjustments to where you are planning, with some practice, one can plan right up to the cut line. It does take some practice on some scrap to get good at this and develop the confidence to go for it on your project pieces. Having said that, I think most people put the practice in and learn to plan down to the cut line. If you wanted to make a jig to ensure that you hand planed to the same amount each time, I suppose you could build a jig that 1) holds the piece that needs planning and 2) restricts the hand plane from saving too much off your workpiece. To simply hold the workpiece, you could rest it against a stop(s). To keep the plane from saving off too much, the plane would have to ride along some rails which would not allow it to shave off any more material once the workpiece got to the desired thickness. This idea might work if you workpiece is narrower than the sole of your hand plane. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and for the question; it was and interesting one.

@@ImaginethenMake thank you. I ensure hardwood jig base and guide rails are perfectly level and flat. Guide rails smooth hardwood, waxed. The body of the jig, two 4x2 s are level and these just get clamped to the hardwood based secured onto worktop. The face of the stock in contact with the hardwood base should be flat. Use a wide try plane blade eg 2 3/8 inch. Hardwood gets screwed onto table top. Will make it soon.

Good luck with your project.

Yes, I became aware of that method for gluing the end grain AFTER I had made the video. I have not tried it yet but I imagine the bond would be much stronger. Thanks for the tip and for watching.

Sounds like the voice of experience! Thanks for the tip and for watching.

You're welcome and thanks for your comment and for watching,

Thank-you for your comment and for watching.