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Claire Shaeffer
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2012
Welcome, I am Claire Shaeffer.
I write sewing books and collect vintage fashions. I graduated with honors from a trade-technical school where I learned to make garments at all price points. Later, I graduated summa cum laude with a degree in art history.
I've written hundreds of articles and more than 25 books and videos on garment construction. I, also, design the Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns. I taught college level courses for 22 years. I received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals in 2003 and the American Sewing Guild Hall of Fame Award in 2012.
I have an extensive collection of vintage fashions which I use for research.
My TH-cam videos focus on museum exhibitions, sewing techniques, and what you can learn and apply from vintage designs.
I write sewing books and collect vintage fashions. I graduated with honors from a trade-technical school where I learned to make garments at all price points. Later, I graduated summa cum laude with a degree in art history.
I've written hundreds of articles and more than 25 books and videos on garment construction. I, also, design the Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns. I taught college level courses for 22 years. I received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals in 2003 and the American Sewing Guild Hall of Fame Award in 2012.
I have an extensive collection of vintage fashions which I use for research.
My TH-cam videos focus on museum exhibitions, sewing techniques, and what you can learn and apply from vintage designs.
24-Hour Dress
The 24-Hour dress was designed by Jean Phillipe Worth for Kate Brice to wear to the Bradley- Historic Costume Ball in 1897. This stunning dress was inspired by a Spanish 17th century gown worn by the Infanta Margarita. Sewing expert and vintage collector Claire Shaeffer describes the dress which Worth reportedly made in 24 hours so it could be shipped via ocean liner in time for the Ball.
มุมมอง: 857
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WOW -- The Secrets of a Chanel Jacket
มุมมอง 3.5K28 วันที่ผ่านมา
Join Claire Shaeffer to examine an haute couture Chanel jacket from 1965. Photographed in Vogue magazine, Claire will show you the signature elements which Vogue dubbed Chanelisms and how they are used on this classic jacket.
Chanel Designing with Fabric
มุมมอง 608หลายเดือนก่อน
Sewing expert and collector Claire Shaeffer shows you 4 haute couture designs in which Chanel created innovative designs by cutting the fabric apart and sewing it together again in a different way.
Dior's Dress with a Twist
มุมมอง 733หลายเดือนก่อน
Claire Shaeffer takes you behind the seams of this beautiful haute couture skimmer from Christian Dior. She'll describe the dress and show you how it was made.
Electric Light by Charles Frederick Worth
มุมมอง 4632 หลายเดือนก่อน
Claire Shaeffer shows you the details on this incredible party dress by Charles Frederick Worth. Worn by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt to the Vanderbilt Ball in 1883, this over-the-top dress showcases the high quality of the design and workmanship typical of the House of Worth. This dress is in the collection of the Museum of the City of New York.
Worth's Embellished Mantle, 1888
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Author and sewing expert Claire Shaeffer takes you to the Museum of the City of New York to examine a richly embellished mantle by Charles Frederick Worth from 1888. Claire shows you the design details and the exquisite beading on this handsome wrap.
Dior Red Dress-and the Bias Stay
มุมมอง 6K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Claire Shaeffer takes you behind the seams to examine this haute couture design from Christian Dior. Designed by Marc Bohan in 1985, the dress has traditional haute couture construction with easy to copy techniques such as the bias stay, cutting bias, covering a shoulder pad, and waist stay.
Chanel Trims on Haute Couture Jackets 1
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Join sewing expert, author, and collector Claire Shaeffer to examine 20 couture Chanel trims and a couple of ready-to-wear trims. The trims include topstitching, lining and blouse fabrics, self-fabric, embroidery, pipings, braid, and beaded trims.
The Complete Book of Shortcuts by Claire Shaeffer
มุมมอง 7233 หลายเดือนก่อน
Sewing expert, author, and collector Claire B Shaeffer tells you about her first book The Complete Book of Sewing Shortcuts.According to Claire, there is a shortcut for every sewing technique. The book was published in 1981 and was in print for 30 years. Claire discusses why she wrote the book, some new items in the book as well as criticisms of the book. Although the book is out of print, it i...
Sleeping Beauties: Reawaking Fashion at the Met
มุมมอง 2.4K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Sleeping Beauties: Reawaking Fashion at the Met
Fly Front Zipper- Abridged Untitled video
มุมมอง 5165 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fly Front Zipper- Abridged Untitled video
Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style
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Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style
Chanel cocktail suits 1954 1971 Chanel Manifesto
มุมมอง 5737 หลายเดือนก่อน
Chanel cocktail suits 1954 1971 Chanel Manifesto
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Evening Designs 1909 to 1939
มุมมอง 1.3K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Evening Designs 1909 to 1939
German--17 Easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing noX4ekJSDCUb5wece8aEb
มุมมอง 6818 หลายเดือนก่อน
German 17 Easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing noX4ekJSDCUb5wece8aEb
French: 17 easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing T3bbXUBNozqIMO0Q8MQow
มุมมอง 5958 หลายเดือนก่อน
French: 17 easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing T3bbXUBNozqIMO0Q8MQow
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Day Dresses & Suits 1909-1939
มุมมอง 1.6K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Day Dresses & Suits 1909-1939
The Chanel Suit Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto
มุมมอง 6K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Chanel Suit Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto
Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto at the V&A Museum
มุมมอง 1.8Kปีที่แล้ว
Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto at the V&A Museum
I borrowed this skirt from a friend so I could write about it. It's really lovely and I had never considered using that many circles.
Thank you. Your videos are training my eye to recognize top level craftmanship. You are a gift for us! 🎉
Wow, that's beautiful! Who made it?
Another lovely video! Ty! I am dying to know your story and how you have acquired your knowledge? A video perhaps? “Triangle is on vacation”…that was so funny 😊
Actually, I'm not sure where the triangle is. It's a nice large one so I'm sure that it's not lost. I've considered a video about my educations and how I learned many things. It's a part of my family history. I'll think about it some more. I always appreciate your comments.
Great video! I don’t understand that button hole piece… Could you let me know what’s its purpose. Ty!
The end of the should strap is inserted into the buttonhole.
Hi, I just discovered you and I’m on my second video. So far I’m very impressed. Thank you for sharing! As a professional designer heading this was made in 24 hrs…Wow!!!
Welcome! Worth invented a variety of "shortcuts", another dress I wrote about has small tucks in each sleeve when joined to the dress. This tells me that the bodice and sleeves were made separately. When sewn together, the sleeve was bigger than the armscye so a tuck was used to make it fit.
Although I was unable to attend the exhibition, thank you for this detailed video.
As always❤❤❤❤❤❤ a pleasure listening and watching your videos
I absolutely cannot believe this dress was made in just 24 hours. I wonder if, somewhere in the archives of the House of Worth, there is some journal or log entry about how this could possibly have been accomplished. Very interesting commentary, Claire.
💖
Imagine a whole workroom all sewing parts to finish in 24 hours! 😮
I wonder how many seamstresses had to work on the organza strips at once to be able to make it in 24 hours.
and how many hours!
Wonder video, thank you! I love the historical and tayloring details.
Thank you Claire!
Always such a pleasure to watch your videos!
thanks, I've had some voice issues this summer.
hey, I have a question. I'm studying fashion design and I'm thinking about what direction I should take after that. I've been following you on TH-cam for a while and really enjoy watching your videos. I wanted to ask if you happened to know whether there is any specific training in the field of couture tailoring. Unfortunately I can't find anything about it on the internet, but I would be absolutely interested because I would love to learn the craft. I'm already learning to be a tailor during my studies, but I would like to learn more specific couture tailoring. very best regards Luna
Luna, yes, there are, but they are in London and Paris; and although I don't know of any specific programs, there are some good programs in other European countries. FIT in New York used to have a great tailoring instructor. Sadly, he is no longer there. If you live in a city that has a bespoke tailor, he might take you on as a student.
I just love your videos ❤❤❤
So is Haute Couture just similar to Bespoke? And (2) that means Givenchy is not true Haute Couture, because it's still Mass Produced Ready-To-Ware sitting a Mall or store , instead of Made-To-Order one of a kind only?
Yes, it is similar to Bespoke. Generally Bespoke is used for menswear, but it can be used for women's. Givenchy can have an haute couture collection as well as a pret-a-porter or ready-to-wear collection. Some couture houses-have 2 lines of ready-to-wear-one more expensive than the other.
The colors in the fabric are incredible! 💖
Yes, they are and these photos don't do them justice.
@@claireshaeffer7616 the close ups do! 💞
Soo beautiful and interesting. I treasure your videos. Important that the history of these works of art are never forgotten. 💝
I wonder, is that chain smelly? I’m allergic to various metals used in faux jewelry and cannot stand the smell some of those pieces have. Lovely jacket, the buttonholes look rudimentary in comparison to the ones made by machinery. The Victoria and Albert Museum youtube channel has a wonderful documentary about one of Lauren Bacall’s Chanel suit, maybe you can compare the two jackets!
I love your channel Ms Shaeffer. A small tip, we all do umms and errs when talking but you can have those pauses edited out.
thx
I have been collecting designer Vogue patterns from the 1900s, and am intrigued by the great variety of jackets that often come as part of a dress outfit, and also by dress coats. Perhaps a video on the subject.
Linda, I'll put it on my list. Thx for the suggestion.
Enjoyed the review.
As a weaver I’m fascinated by the actual cloth. I’ll be having a go a replicating it one day
I have always been intrigued with Chanel jackets. Thanks for sharing
The biggest design fault is not matching the back centre seam, surely a basic error
Barbara, the fabric appears to be a random handwoven weave which could not be matched.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for showing us behind the seams of this jacket.
Will there be a video about the dress that is under the jacket ?
No, I only have the skirt, but I have the dress for another suit.
Daunting! I appreciate your breakdowns of these garments. These skills may become "lost" but you are providing a great documentation to help circumvent that!!
Thank you! I always enjoy your 'tour' of iconic clothing - and learn something every time too.
It appears beautiful. Did you find it well-constructed, and were you satisfied?
Yes and I learned a lot from it.
Thank you so much!Very interesting!I love that they are a lots of hand stitches!Lovely!
Oh another delicious post, thank you. My American Mother in law was a socialite long ago was not present in my life until I was an adult had a few pieces of Haute Couture but by the time I thought of asking her if she had any interesting fashion items she had already sold them for pennies to a reseller who moved in her circle of friends. Here in Tokyo the chances of me picking up a Haute Couture piece at a flea market are very very slim.
If possible, ask her about her HC experiences--anything she remembers.
@@claireshaeffer7616 Hello!! I wish I had asked her about her fashion experiences but before I had a chance again she unfortunately passed a few years ago.
Thank you. This is utterly fascinating. have been following you since I got your books when they first came out.
Thanks Claire! It always amazes me to take a peek inside these garments....the seamstresses must have handled the garment pieces so carefully to avoid unravelling of seam edges. Do you think they basted the edges until the end of construction, and then removed it carefully at the end?
Remember--the toile (pattern) was developed on the client's dress form so there wasn't a lot of fitting needed for the jacket itself. Also, the work was handled carefully and kept on a table. Lastly, they could have started with extra wide seam allowances and trimmed them at the end.
A lovely tour. *_*
My lord this is marvelous ❤❤❤❤❤ thank you.
If I am honest, I could never really understand wherein the beauty lays in Chanel fashion (not Lagerfeld). Only the handwoven texture seems to me attractive. Chanel means for me the end of the feminine era. But I do appreciate your channel, Mrs Shaeffer, for understanding techniques. Thank you!
It would be a boring world if we all like the same things. Thanks for your post. Claire
So much information, as my mom used to say, "the simpler the dress or jacket the hards it is to make correctly."
Yes, because there are no ruffles to hide your crooked seams in.
Maybe you can answer this, what is the weight of chain used? Thats been puzzling me for some time.
The chains used to be brass--now just gold-colored or silver. They look like a curb chain and are about 1/4" wide. I buy chain at Britex Fabrics in San Francisco.
@@claireshaeffer7616 excellent and thank you! This gives me a good guideline. I can get some brass in NYC. Much appreciated.
You don't want alluminum or lightweight jewelry
@@claireshaeffer7616 I know where to get brass. And if they don't have it in stock, the hardware store does.
Thank you! So much fun to see inside and hear your commentary! I cannot help thinking, “Can I do that on my garments?” ❤
Why not?
super
I absolutely love this suit and had never seen it before. As I often tell people, Chanel suits were not office wear, they were "Dallas ladies do lunch." I would love for you to explain how the "false" blouse cuffs were done inside the jacket sleeves. Often, my suits are worn with various blouses and doing the snap in cuffs would be oh, so nice.
Wonder if you think that the tenure of Viard over the House of Chanel has diminished the integrity of the Chanel and Lagerfeld tenures. And who next?
This is a good example of the Peter principle--when someone is doing a great job, then gets promoted. For various reasons, the new job may not be a fit. Lagerfeld was a tough act to follow. During the period between Chanel's death an Lagerfeld, there were several designers until they found the right match for the Chanel customer. It's hard to know exactly what happened with Viard; and it could be a change in what the customers want.
@@claireshaeffer7616we will probably never know the real reason. The fact is that during Viards tenure sales were up, the brand was doing very well, so there must have been differences that were more idealogical, or the new management wanted to take the brand to another level which involved more drastic modern changes. It's a very tricky situation, and the near future will show their intentions.....
@@claireshaeffer7616I actually didn’t like Viard’s interpretation of Chanel. She just kept doing what Lagerfeld was doing and the brand didn’t evolve at all. I never really liked Lagerfeld’s Chanel either as he made it tacky. I hated his overdone branding and all the very German tacky Chanel logos and way too much leather and nonsense. Chanel needs to be reinvented by a younger designer and to strip back all the horrific gold and silver bling, chains and logos. Only tacky rich nouveau riche Asians wear Chanel nowadays. Coco Chanel herself never did all that branding - she had a little bit of chain here and there, but Lagerfeld campified her style and it was atrocious. I would like to see someone like Phoebe Philo take on Chanel’s creative direction. I don’t think Daniel Roseberry is appropriate nor Marc Jacobs. Jacobs is outdated now and his style is too kitschy and campy. Roseberry is way too theatrical and that’s not what a Chanel is. Chanel requires a more restrained and classical cut and approach. A very young Giorgio Armani or a very young Donna Karan would’ve been perfect.
There is no difference between home sewing and couture. The difference experience and craft quality of the sewer. Your videos are a waste of time and nonsensical. As if we can't sew the same quality as they do in Paris. I'm assuming couture you mean not just made to order French couture.
Fred, thank you for your post, but I disagree. There are many differences between traditional home sewing techniques and haute couture. That said, home sewers can use haute couture techniques and create the same quality as Paris. Generally, when I use the term couture, I am referring to made-to-order French garments.(The same or similar techniques are used by couture houses in Italy and the UK.) Ready-to-wear techniques are not couture, but they can also be used by homesewers. In the United States, expensive ready-to-wear (RTW) is called "couture." The techniques may be different from less expensive RTW, but they are still RTW. I began writing about haute couture techniques more than 40 years ago because I believe homesewers can use them to improve their sewing skills. Often, HC techniques are quite similar to a technique which homesewers already know, but it is applied in a different way or for a different purpose. Again, thank you for your post.
This is not a secret these are all either common sense or common knowledge.
Good morning Fred; I agree. They are not secrets; but they are hints which will improve the skills of most homesewers--especially those who are new or less experienced and those who have had limited opportunities to take sewing classes or tutorials. Do you have some "secrets" which you are willing to share? If so, I hope you will.
For me as a beginner these tips are very valuable. Thank you Mrs Shaeffer! I appreciate it very much.
I love everything you do! I was a Paris seamstress in three past lives. I spent my childhood this life in "Grapes of Wrath" country, Bakersfield, CA. I think my mom subscribed to Vogue magazine. I cut out for my scrapbook the picture of a Dior gown that was strapless with a bodice of white peau de soie covered in rhinestones and pearls -- and layers of pale pink tulle gathered to a dropped waist! Was that 1954? I loved my junior high sewing classes. My mom struggled to sew nice things. Sheer ruffled curtains, Easter dresses, and a classy red wool princess coat which ended up in a "Care" package to Holland along with coffee, sugar and chocolate! I long to get back to making my own clothes -- very simple but the best fabrics and full bust adjustment! Thank you!
Your comments are always a delight!
Claire, you are doing god's work. This is so brilliant and the amount of detail in your description of each garment is truly masterful. Thank you, a million times.
Thank you. I really appreciate your comments. I enjoy what I do. I hope to have a new video--Inside a Chanel Jacket soon.
@@claireshaeffer7616 Eagerly looking forward to that :)