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Bulb diameter?

solid work! best implementation I've seen so far

Quick question are the connectors polarized or does it matter what position I put it in? Does it matter if it's positive or negative either direction when putting inserting the light bulb

We want to see to believe, show the before and after footage. Please. Great infor though, thanks 😊

Great Video!! Question: My e28 tach works intermittently. Would this be the batteries on the cluster maybe? The fuse is good. Thanks

I guess the only reason to mark the ball is to compare with ware with the channel? but thats just the word on the street from the ladies!!

Please text me as soon as possible because I want to buy

Seat for BMW E39 is going to feed for E34

Hey bud I’m interested in buying those gears off you. Do you ship internationally?

£13 from Bmw and that came with the 2 pines,car runs great now

THANK YOU!! I have never commented on any TH-cam videos but want to express my gratidute. This is my favorite mod on my 1989ix (so far). Your video is PERFECT. The attention to detail with the the trunk seal and foam weatherstripping makes it look factory. I especially like the end where you have the parts list and schematic. Truly one of the best how-to videos on YT. A tip of my hat to you. I just had my entire interior ripped out for some rust repair. I had initially used rivnuts but upon reinstalling, my angled hole rivnut is spinning. I am going to use the toothed washer that you recommend in that hole going forward. BTW, I have swapped to E36 heated seats. The console is snug between these wider seats but everything does fit in the E30.

Necesito con odómetro para un e 28 modelo 1982 528i

Hello! The ABS module is on the board under the steering wheel of the car? At the height of the knees?

Incredible! All I did was to move the car seat all the way back. Then I leaned the seat to the point where it was straight. I then wiggled the cable shown in this video (I did not removed anything at all). Finally I tried once more to bring the seat back to position and it worked! I had been driving with a twisted seat for a couple of months, this video saved the day for me. THANK YOU kindly! Took me two minutes literally.

i remove my cluster and i notices the ground not behind the fuel gauge is missing, could you tell me what size is that nut and where can i get one

This is correct operation of switches.

I have a 88 325I and the power window switches stay lit anytime the ignition is on. Is this correct or should they be controlled headlight switch like all the other interior lights? Thank you in advance for any help you can give.

good shit man but damn spend $300 on the e30 arm rest lol

I just lowered it all the way until they evened out, moved seat forward, disconnect, pulled the two back bolts, lifted off the hooks and removed, that was all (94 e34 530i sedan), the seatbelt bike shifter-like cable was already undone, I think I am missing the connector, just left the upper belt attached and rotated the seat out and rested it on the doorframe face down. I torched the steel by the top left motor (I had a left side twist) pulled out the cable, trimmed the plastic, heat the steel nub, reinserted plastic, crimped a bit, reinstalled seat, connected, and nearly perfect, 20-25 minutes in and out, next time I'll trim and fix the other cables, but this was a fine first attempt and 95% fix that non-e34 fanatics won't notice. Thanks!

Thanks for the guidance! So I push the cable in with pliers while the seat is connected to straighten it out, then remove and do this process, not 100% sure on that but about to give it a try.

Ok so how do you set the seat straight before you disconnet it if one side does not move at all? It is supposed to be straight before you fix the cables, if you cant get it straight, what to do?

Remove cluster but don't disconnect. Start the car and wiggle connectors a little while watching gauges. If it works wile wiggling connectors that means bad connection. More likely its one of those connectors loosing ground. Good luck.

rev counter and speedometer dont work unless i hit the cluster, what do i do?

Sedan, coupe are the same. Ether one will work. I don't know about ti orCompact. Ti model has a different dashboard, it may have different hand rest. You can check on realoem.com.

armrest from sedan/coupe/compact ?

You don't have to. I wanted to put it back the way at was. Some things are engineered to be the same but in reality they are different. Especially after being used for a long time. Some last two years some 10, but engineered to be the same.

Why on earth would you mark the balls? Those things are engineered to be the exact same size.

Exactly what i needed. Now my ABS light turns off after starting the engine. Thank you very much.

I would check all cables if they need shortening. It all depends on how much its been used. Over time the steel cable grinds the outer sheath from inside producing extra space in it. That makes the outer sheath appear that it became longer. In reality the cable inside has more space to move and comes out of the motor. So if its not used it should be fine.

So you shortened both cables?

I have a 1994 530i 3.0L V8 that's an M60 Engine . Anyway both the RPM and the tachometer stop operating. How do I repair them?. Am willing to buy parts from you if you sell them. Thanks. John.

Used this on my 1992 E34 this afternoon. Process is very similar. E14 Torx to get the seat out. It seems to be a little harder to get to the bolts holding the motors in than E39, but the process is the same. To facilitate that, you can drill out the rivets holding the bracing plate in, and shift the plate toward the back of the seat about 6". That is assuming you have a rivet gun, and you'd need about 1/8" rivets (before expansion) to fill the holes. I dropped 3 of 8 bolts holding the motors in. Using a hard drive magnet on a string you can pull them out. Especially not a problem if you just tilt the seat. No need to remove the seatbelt either; it's long enough you can pull the seat out the door with it attached. One of the first two cables I pulled seemed to be solidly protruding, but I think it had just slipped out. It pays to doublecheck and do every cable because I ended up with height adjust not working still. I don't mind much though, since it's always been stuck at a height I like.

i took the seat out and 2 bolts holding pressure before i saw this , what now ?

I'm in SF, CA.

Between nut and housing.

does the washer go between nut and housing or between the gauge and inside housing.

If nuts and washers are missing they may have come off over time. If you have only bolts sticking out of back panel you should install a washer an a nut. Best to use brass or coper hardware. Stainless steel hardware is good too. Good luck.

Both my temp and fuel gauges did not have nuts on the back. Nor did they have any washers. Should I install any?

Instructions: e30 These are very detailed instructions. Don't get overwhelmed. It's all straight forward, common sense. If it's not coming apart check if you removed all the screws again. If you have any questions email me. To remove cluster. 1. Remove large cover understeering wheel ( knee bolster) 2. Reach from under dash and remove two round nuts about 3/8" in diameter.one to the left and one to the right of steering column. These nuts hold the panel located between cluster and steering wheel. These are hard to reach. Yo cannot see the right side nut, but if you look under left side you may see the nut. It's silver color metal nut. 3. Remove that trim panel. 4. Remove cluster frame screws. Two at the top of the cluster and( I think 4) at the bottom of the cluster. 5. Remove cluster frame. 6. Remove screws at the top that hold the cluster to the dash. They are visible. 7. Pull cluster out a little. Disconnect wiring and remove cluster out. IMPORTANT: Note which wire going where so you can plug it back in when installing the cluster back. It's a good time to check all the bulbs. Replace Wedge bulbs that light up the back ground. They cost a few bucks but it will insure you don't have to do this job again in a few months. I think there are three wedge bulbs that give background light. Make sure to buy correct wattage of the bulbs. The wattage is marked on the back of the cluster. Now check the rest of the control bulbs. Control bulbs are smaller and they are special bulbs in a housing. You can check them with multi-meter/tester or if you don't have one get a 9volt battery. Keep in mind the bulbs are for 12 volt and 9 volt battery will not make the bulb bright but you will be able to tell if it's working or not. I've seen 2-3 bulbs per cluster not working in almost every cluster I repaired. Again I would replace them all unless you don't mind taking the cluster out again at a later date. The Cluster: 1. Remove all the screws that look alike on the back of the cluster. Make sure you remove them all. 2. Very carefully pry the cluster apart from the glass. There is a multi pin connector in the bottom center of the cluster that is also hold these parts together by strong friction. When putting back together make sure the pins go in their corresponding holes or you can bend them. You have to be careful. IMPORTANT: Never touch the faces or needles of the gauges. 3. Hold the gauges carefully and remove 4 screws on the back of the odometer/ Speedometer gauge. 4. Slowly pull the odometer/ speedometer gauge out. 5. On the side where you see broken gears remove two screws and remove the clear plastic plate. 6. Remove and replace gears. Install gears in this order: Gear 1, Gear 3, Gear 2. Gear one is the drive gear and should be rotating together with the shaft. Gear 2 and 3 should spin freely on their shafts. It is also a good idea to check your odometer for pieces of the old broken gears that may be stuck inside the odometer or next to the other gears. First replace the very small gear. Bellow you will find instructions on how to remove the metal sleeve of the smallest gear. Once the sleeve is removed press in the new smallest gear. Aligning all the gears is common sense so teeth of the gears are touching together. When pressing smallest gear on do not press more then necessary to be pushed on on the shaft or the mechanism on the other side of the shaft can be damaged. When all gears are installed put everything back together in reverse of dis assembly. Gear 1 The Small Gear.Remove the brass sleeve of the original gear 1 off of the shaft and discard. The new gear should be snug on the shaft and turn together with the shaft it is on. Use Diagonal cutters to pry the first gear sleeve up and off of the shaft. Use a pair of diagonal cutters as a pry tool. You can squeeze the sleeve length wise ( along the shaft) a little with the cutters to deform it and make it loose. Place the jaws under the Brass sleeve and with firm hand shakepressure pry the sleeve upward. Hold the jaws so that they cradle the underside of the sleeve but do not cut into the shaft. Be careful not to pry against an area that could be damaged by the pressure. To press new gear in hold the shaft with round nose plyers and using firm finger pressure press new gear over the shaft, so end of shaft is flash with the end of the new gear.

To remove cluster: New Gear1 is updated design. Old Brass sleeve gets removed and discarded. Read instructions! Make sure to check for broken off pieces of old gears inside your odometer. All pieces of the old gears can be stuck between the other gears and prevent it from turning. If they are not removed you can strip other gears when new gears are installed. If after installation of new gears your odometer isnot turning do not force it and look for small plastic pieces of the old gears. e30 These are very detailed instructions. Don't get overwhelmed. It's all straight forward, common sense. If it's not coming apart check if you removed all the screws again. If you have any questions email me. To remove cluster. 1. Remove large cover understeering wheel ( knee bolster) 2. Reach from under dash and remove two round nuts about 3/8" in diameter.one to the left and one to the right of steering column. These nuts hold the panel located between cluster and steering wheel. These are hard to reach. Yo cannot see the right side nut, but if you look under left side you may see the nut. It's silver color metal nut. 3. Remove that trim panel. 4. Remove cluster frame screws. Two at the top of the cluster and( I think 4) at the bottom of the cluster. 5. Remove cluster frame. 6. Remove screws at the top that hold the cluster to the dash. They are visible. 7. Pull cluster out a little. Disconnect wiring and remove cluster out. IMPORTANT: Note which wire going where so you can plug it back in when installing the cluster back. It's a good time to check all the bulbs. Replace Wedge bulbs that light up the back ground. They cost a few bucks but it will insure you don't have to do this job again in a few months. I think there are three wedge bulbs that give background light. Make sure to buy correct wattage of the bulbs. The wattage is marked on the back of the cluster. Now check the rest of the control bulbs. Control bulbs are smaller and they are special bulbs in a housing. You can check them with multi-meter/tester or if you don't have one get a 9volt battery. Keep in mind the bulbs are for 12 volt and 9 volt battery will not make the bulb bright but you will be able to tell if it's working or not. I've seen 2-3 bulbs per cluster not working in almost every cluster I repaired. Again I would replace them all unless you don't mind taking the cluster out again at a later date. The Cluster: 1. Remove all the screws that look alike on the back of the cluster. Make sure you remove them all. 2. Very carefully pry the cluster apart from the glass. There is a multi pin connector in the bottom center of the cluster that is also hold these parts together by strong friction. When putting back together make sure the pins go in their corresponding holes or you can bend them. You have to be careful. IMPORTANT: Never touch the faces or needles of the gauges. 3. Hold the gauges carefully and remove 4 screws on the back of the odometer/ Speedometer gauge. 4. Slowly pull the odometer/ speedometer gauge out. 5. On the side where you see broken gears remove two screws and remove the clear plastic plate. 6. Remove and replace gears. Install gears in this order: Gear 1, Gear 3, Gear 2. Gear one is the drive gear and should be rotating together with the shaft. Gear 2 and 3 should spin freely on their shafts. It is also a good idea to check your odometer for pieces of the old broken gears that may be stuck inside the odometer or next to the other gears. First replace the very small gear. Bellow you will find instructions on how to remove the metal sleeve of the smallest gear. Once the sleeve is removed press in the new smallest gear. Aligning all the gears is common sense so teeth of the gears are touching together. When pressing smallest gear on do not press more then necessary to be pushed on on the shaft or the mechanism on the other side of the shaft can be damaged. When all gears are installed put everything back together in reverse of dis assembly. Gear 1 The Small Gear.Remove the brass sleeve of the original gear 1 off of the shaft and discard. The new gear should be snug on the shaft and turn together with the shaft it is on. Use Diagonal cutters to pry the first gear sleeve up and off of the shaft. Use a pair of diagonal cutters as a pry tool. You can squeeze the sleeve length wise ( along the shaft) a little with the cutters to deform it and make it loose. Place the jaws under the Brass sleeve and with firm hand shakepressure pry the sleeve upward. Hold the jaws so that they cradle the underside of the sleeve but do not cut into the shaft. Be careful not to pry against an area that could be damaged by the pressure. To press new gear in hold the shaft with round nose plyers and using firm finger pressure press new gear over the shaft, so end of shaft is flash with the end of the new gear.

Yes. But to repair odometer and trip meter you will need to replace gears inside the odometer. This is very common problem. You can do it! Good luck!

My instrument cluster is faulty on the left side, The odometer does not count nor does the trip odometer. My car is a 1997 BMW 320i. Is this problem easy to fix. If so can i take the steps you have recommended on this video tutorial? or will the parts you recommended be the right option for my car?

This is amazing & I really like to purchase a set of gear wheels for my E30 BMW316i - 1989 model. Please let me know the price. Also the price of a complete motometer. Thanks a lot. Asoka

Well, your theory is interesting. Not all theories are correct in real life. I still have that belt tensioner on the car that I drive every day. And it doesn't make noise or had fallen apart. If this repair allowing me to use the part for several years its good repair to me. But of course you can buy new one. I have that option too, but I postponed it by 3 years and may be that greased roller has a few more years of service life.

This is a silly waste of time. The "dirt" inside that bearing is actually finely divided bearing material! Even if dirt had made it in, it would destroy the bearing within seconds if allowed to spin under load. This is a VERY temporary fix at best -- more likely a complete foolish waste of time. The bearings aren't THAT expensive! And the idea of repairing a seal with glue is laughable!

Excellent job!

Thanks for your video, the best vidro ever. I just fixed my seat :)

This repair is for when ABS light stays on. If it turns off after car start and later turns on it is more likely related to ABS wheel sensor or wiring fault/ malfunction.

Is it valid too when ABS light stays off after just starting the engine, but turns on whenever the car is moving? (indicating that it´s not reading any "info" from the ABS sensors).

Yes. It's a simple valve and of it gets clogged by oil it can be simply washed. The clip repair on the video has nothing to do with function of valve, but an idea of how to repair broken snaps of the plastic parts that fail when part gets old and plastic brittle.