วีดีโอ

Its 2 x 2 and 3K carbon fiber bought from www.Polyestershoppen.com. It's real carbon fiber, now vinyl wrap :).

It's Stevik spray glue for resin infusion, use a very thin layer so there's also enough spots through that layer where the carbon fiber and resin can bind with the basecoat resin.

Clearcoat resin goes ontop of thr carbon fibre cloth, the black base coat goes on 1st ontop of the mirror caps then thr carbon cloth on top of that black base coat

Apply a BMW logo sticker on top of it.

@@Larssonnnn that’s what i ended up doing lol

It's almost impossible to not get orange peel with spray cans when spraying clear coat. I do recognize what you mean though, but that would also turn into a hit and miss results where most likely, the coats will be uneven, runny and full of drips. Even professionals with expensive spray equipment get orange peel, some less than others but it's a very big challenge to spray clear-coat without orange peel :). There are many discussions about this as well where people claim that it's better to leave the orange peel on as it offers more protection (which is true in some way). Also many cars just come from the factory with orange peel but most people don't pay attention to this, people usually don't look up close to inspect someone's paintjob unless it's a special car for events or something :).

I have not been experimenting with polishing yet as there is little reason to sand the final layer. It should not be a problem though. Personally, I think I would just sand the part with 320 or 400 grid and re-apply the clear. The version I used was DC008. I have tried with and without thinner and personally I think I prefer without, even though they say it's for brush use. Without thinner it's still very runny and smooth. What I haven't tried yet is using about half of the amount of thinner added to the mix that they recommend. For the best result, they do recommend several layers and sanding between (I used 320 I think) and with 400 before adding the final layer.

You can basically add layers as soon as the resin stops being runny and all bubbles are degassed. How long you have to wait also depends on the temperature you are working in. Some people wait until the resin doesn't stick to your finger anymore but does feel sticky and others (including me) add layers as quick as possible, while waiting for at least 1 hour. The other method is usually 90 to 120 minutes before you check how sticky the resin is. For the above reasons I recommend that you also brush some resin on something else so you can keep touching the resin to check without having to touch your project and possibly ruining it.

Some people really like carbon fiber accessories for their interior or exterior of their cars, like interior trims , shift nobs or even head light covers. Realistically if you have back round in composites you know that it takes more work to make an applicable part like this head light cover from having to make a mold of the original part and then lay up and vacuum bag then have to infuse it , demold it , trim it scuff it buff it then have to clear coat just to have a lighter version of the headlight cover which is not a big change in the cars weight when it’s plainly cosmetic so the answer to your comment would be it’s just more convenient and cost effective since it adds no performance value to the car.in the end it looks great and that’s the purpose it serves in this case.

You can only see the big difference in real life. If you make a nice carbon layer the material has depth, it changes how it looks the way you look at, day or night etc. It's alive. If you wrap with just carbon looking sricker (how i started), you basically just put a picture of carbon onto something. You might fool someone with a still image but in real life its a difference between night and day. I still have lots of different carbon vinyls but when I look at it, I just shake my head lol. Wrapping was fun, still do sometimes but can never replace the real thing.

There is more to it than just the aesthetics. When done properly, parts that have been skinned with carbon fiber are more rigid and durable - abrasion and scratch resistance, UV protection - Skinning offers a layer of protection that you just won't get with anything else. About a decade ago I bought a vacuum bagging system and autoclave to make custom parts for the Porsche 914 that I autocross. Since most competitions were out on hold during COVID I decided to build a sim rig at home. Even though I have all the equipment to make 100% carbon fiber parts for the setup, I opted instead to use 3d printed parts I had skinned. The finished products are far better looking and much more durable than regular 3d printed bits and the process is much quicker than making full carbon parts.

​@juanesteban8827 💯 agree. In skinning you sacrifice some weight/strength as opposed to a full (or pure) CF component, but you save time and money. The finished product is light years deeper & richer than a wrap.

Only for looks

Roughly 2 to 3 hours depending on room temperature. You can do shorter breaks depending on your resin. Most important thing is the resin having time to degas and not still being too runny. Takes some trial and error if you are impatient without messing it up 🙂

Probably between 0.5 and 1 mm. Depends on taste as well. Thicker creates a more depth look.

Roughly 2 to 3 hours depending on room temperature. You can do shorter breaks depending on your resin. Most important thing is the resin having time to degas and not still being too runny. Takes some trial and error if you are impatient without messing it up 🙂

Comes down to taste but I figured without music would be too boring 🙂

Good luck 😁

@@caraddix well turned out great 👍

It depends on temperature but usually between 2 and 3 hours. I always make a little spot on the side where you can just stick your finger in to test without having to touch your actual work :).

In some cases, I guess more complex shapes.

@@caraddix how long does does it stick for???

@@pedroalmodovar6709 The trick is to use just enough for it to stick during the process and allow enough resin to still get under the fabric and not use glue for long term, as that alone will not be reliable.

polyestershoppen.com/koolstof-en-aramide/koolstofweefsel-200-gr-m2-keper-111.html

Haha, yeah that looks kinda scary but it will create a better bond 🙂.

The main reason using glue is to save time. You can also do more complex parts in general using glue. Just go easy with the glue, this will keep enough space for the epoxy as well so you don't just build on the carbon held by glue. The 2nd layer should be able to get through the fabric and still hold onto the original part 🙂. At keast, that's my strategy here 😁. Just glue as an anchor will not hold over time.

Zou ik even moeten kijken, soms als ik een auto volg met de camera heb ik een andere auto erachter maar half of niet meer mooi dus dat is niet meer te gebruiken.

@@caraddix dat zou mooi zijn!😃👍

24 hours to be safe. I do sometimes turn off the pump sooner if I had a leak and to prevent sucking it dry but after that I still leave it in the mold until 24 hours have passed. However as I mentioned before, to be safe try to aim for at least 24 hours, the resin should be hard enough then not to easily bend.

I will ask an expert for you but personally, I have my doubts because it stays liquid and runny for a pretty long time. I will let you know what the expert with this stuff will tell me 🙂.

Some people the expert knows have done it with small projects but it would be risky. I think you can expect mixing results.

Thanks ! I know that some clearcoats are a bit more difficult to use as a in mold clearcoat, you need to time it correctly or let it cure 100% and then rough the surface and then put in the carbon fiber and do the infusion. I will see if I will make a test on this, I just found that I can buy this clearcoat here in Sweden. @@caraddix

@@NiclasGudmundsson What's the benefit of using clear in the mold? Why not apply it after?

The benefit would be to have a perfect flat surface against the mold and another would perhaps to have a surface that would be perfect without any pinholes in the carbonfiber. You can normally spray a 2K clearcoat in a mold and then make a infusion of epoxy into the stack of carbonfiber. @@caraddix

Ga ik denk ik ook nog wel doen :).

Graag!@@caraddix

The black basecoat is epoxy with pigment and also some extra fillers to make it a bit thicker and less runny (at least it is with this Resion version).