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same here

In that case I'm glad that my conclusion was to buy the official cards!

yes correct but in my case I have a second option to clone the cf and swap the expansion card and make it internal. no time at the moment……. but overall as suggested not worth the time unless you get the newer version which is faster (sn560 ch) like my case. Also old xbox series s mb built is much better quality than newer, so keep your existing and upgrade nvme (which is the only advantage over newer xbox)

I agree and as time goes on it will get harder to get these drives. Having said that, the list in the video is fairly extensive and grows by the day. RGH is a good solution but not everyone has soldering skills, making it easy for those people to completely destroy their console. I would say the best compromise is to get any portable USB drive that is 2TB in size and just connect it via one of the USB ports. Personally I prefer a clean setup without unnecessary peripherals connected, hence the tutorial for the internal drive upgrade.

@@JoshuaChwee The only way the Xbox detected the card was if the SSD was completely clean (no partition table, not initialized). Even if I only initialized it, using MBR or GPT, at that point the Xbox never detected it.

@@tbtekuk thanks for the response. you clean the ssd thru diskpart is it?

@@JoshuaChwee Yes that clears the partition table on the drive and makes it blank. I've read some reports that a new update has broken the adapters even for those that had them working, so I'd say it's not really worth investing any more time or money on trying to get them going.

@@nigelpratt1831 You need the latest one as I mention in the video. Otherwise you won't have the 'Xbox HDD Maker' option.

Thank you for the help and a realy good video.💯👍

@@AchWave Only if you have a modded system in which case you can use any 2.5" SATA drive, skip the flashing step and go straight to formatting (up to 2TB). For non-modded systems then no, there aren't any SSDs that are compatible. Only the hard drives searchable on the compatibility list shown at 07:52 are recognised by the console and the maximum capacity is 500GB.

RGH3 is the way to go.

sad that modding a 360 is costly and time consuming wish there was a way to just slap an ssd in. all of my ps3s have ssds in them no modification

I have seen that FatXplorer has a potential upcoming feature that may enable the use of SSDs with certain controllers. If/when it releases I'll be sure to do a video on it!

@@tbtekuk if it happens that would certainly be nice to see

@@spawn8541 No it doesn't work unfortunately.

​@@tbtekuk might as well take the video down now as these cards are no longer readable by the system

@@AnthonyD-b3g I do keep seeing recent reports that an update has stopped those that were working from doing so. Either way the adapters are still for sale everywhere so the video helps people save their time & money and put it towards the official cards.

@tbtekuk Yes, they are available because they want to sell what has been mass produced as they take not much money to make. I certainly would've like for them to work as I finally got a series x this week and will have to move games around on my 4tb external now

I think they get away with it simply because there's now multiple brands (Seagate, Western Digital). Although it must be a slight grey area. Since in some cases they're twice the price of similar storage devices with the same capacity, have worse performance and can only be used for these consoles.

Since Xbox One the security on these consoles has been solid. Not a single one successfully hacked in just under 11 years.

then put it back into the expansion card and see if that solves the error.

also does the real expansion card have folders that are rooted? if so then the xbox is looking for files in certain folders that dont exist on our modded ones.

CrystalDiskInfo says it's 08.03.00

@@tbtekuk i checked the firmware on one of my ch sn530 drives and its 8.05.00

@@DB-fz9ub Interesting... I double checked Western Digital Dashboard and it says the firmware is up to date. I would need a .fluf/flu file of the 08.05.00 to test but it doesn't seem like it's available to download anywhere.

@@tbtekuk yes thats basically the issue. the 8.05.00 firmware isnt available anywhere. most likely its specific to the xbox. i guess we need someone to extract the 8.05.00 firmware from a drive but i dont know if thats possible. ive got another ch sn530 on the way.. ill see what happens with that one when it arrives..

@@DB-fz9ublet me know is this works

Thanks for your feedback. Interesting opinion on what is considered 'antique'. I know many people who use systems with a similar (in some cases worse) specification in 2024, older MacBooks for example have similar processing power. I've looked at your channel and noticed your PC Build from a year ago... very nice! However it's not something to compare this to or even look at under a similar light. This is just about trying to save as many elements of the existing hardware from landfill as I could. Had I not acquired the A88XM-E along with the RAM, Processor and Cooler for just £10 it would have ended up there anyway. Only the original motherboard became waste as it was practically useless for any meaningful build, even more so since the CPUs it is compatible with do not support the SSE4.2 instruction set and are therefore unable to boot Windows 11 24H2 update and I assume future updates. In terms of benchmarks, the video was already too long (it was originally much longer still) and needed to be wrapped up at the end. There are many other videos/websites that provide this information anyway. Most boards will warn of a low/dead CMOS on boot (older ones won't boot at all) and they're easily accessible. Inline with my previous point about the video being long, it was barely worth mentioning unless it interrupted the process, which it didn't luckily. In terms of the unlocked APU, I could have mentioned it but it was not something I could properly utilize or test since I was still using the original 300W power supply from 2009 and the included cooler wasn't amazing. The original Athlon is a 95W processor and so is the A10, I may have been able to up the multiplier slightly for minimal gain but for worthwhile overclocking I would need to upgrade the power supply and most likely the cooler... I didn't want to incur the additional cost. Thanks again for watching!

@@tbtekuk Ok. Thank you. Very kind of you to say. You checked my channel? Cool, Thank you again. I don't remember if I had said anything about the CPU. I have an i9-10900k that I've got cranked up from 3.7 to 5.4 GHz. Actually, I can't even test it on the R23. It crashes on anything over 5.2. Heaven crashes it, too. The only one that I've successfully tested it on was the Valley. I did all of this just for fun and to play Medal of Honor, lol. One time, I was playing and I saw the Frames per second app run up to 3,000, but the game crashed. I suspect the budget Wi-Fi that I had back then. You are definitely a very sharp tech. I am impressed. But, for some reason, I can't stand that old technology. I'm sorry, that is my problem, definitely not yours. You most certainly know more about computers than I do. I didn't know anything about a handful of the things you talked about. I'm new school all the way. You prolly noticed that I do not even have an Optical drive? I'll take down the grade. Another thing that aggravates me is when someone builds something, and then doesn't test it. I mean with a regular benchmarking app. Oh, and you skipped right past loading the OS and what ever you had to do to get it to run Win 11. You are a good sport to put up with me. Liked and subscribed!

@@jasdeepsingh7002 Yes the official documentation says 8GB maximum and I believe on the earlier BIOS versions it was. But yes if you are on BIOS version A11 then you'll be good to go with 16GB (2x8GB). If it's also got the dedicated graphics card then it's definitely worth it.

@@PippeML Doesn't need to be plugged into mains all of the time, however if the battery is worn and the processor power management settings aren't set correctly then from a full charge you can end up with 5-10 minutes or even less before it's dead. Something that many people aren't actually aware of is that ultimately Laptops aren't really designed to be used on battery primarily. The battery allows you to relocate or keep you going temporarily in a power outage but in the most part you should be using it connected to the power supply. The main reason for this is the processor in a half decent machine cannot run at its full potential on battery power. I actually set the processor to max out at 50% on battery power, which performance wise makes it the equivalent of a Dual Core i5 of the same era, when it's not under load it'll drop down as low as 5%. I go from having 20 minutes or less from a full charge to around 2 hours (the battery is the original, fairly worn). I have also used Task Scheduler to help by changing the maximum processor state to 5% when idling and then back to normal when it's in use. This also helps keep it cooler when idle. Will possibly make a video on this at some point.

​@@tbtekuk hey thx for the answer! I'll set up my i7 840 QM to be 50% when on battery... I hope that does the trick! Thanks for the tip man!

@@Thewaterspirit57 Unfortunately if you want any chance of it working it has to be the drive I use in the video or the SSSTC XA1 311024 drive. Both of which are used by Microsoft as the internal SSDs for the consoles. The only chance you would ever have of a 2TB one working is to wait for the upcoming 2TB console release and see what drive they use in those and buy one. Anything they say about making it simpler for the user is ultimately just an excuse for them to monopilise the market and charge a lot more than what the storage is actually worth compared to NVMe SSDs on the market. What's worse, CFexpress maxes out at 4000MB/s which is only just over half of the speed of the leading Gen 4 PCIe NVMe drives (7000MB/s+) that are much cheaper.

@@tbtekuk I can always test the drive and see if it works, maybe even hacking the drivers so they're the WD 530s to recognize the SSD (if I can even figure that out), but I can try a bunch of methods to get the SSD to work, since that will be the tell if I even want to get a Series X (I have a friend who has one so I can test this) Either way I could either keep the SSD for something else, or return it.

Let us know if its works bro ​@@Thewaterspirit57

@@Haloreachfenix Is your console an early model?

@@tbtekuk i tried on series x and series s . They work as it should . The series s is recent from my friend

@@Haloreachfenix Interesting... Thanks for the info! My current theory is it's something to do with the drive firmware version. The fact yours is from a Series X supports that too.

Thanks for watching! Visibly the adapter looks fine, all of the pins seem soldered good and the drive goes in firmly. The one thing that has made me doubt the reliability/feasability of the method is that I read a comment on a non-english video (had to translate it) which ultimately said that they had got one of these that worked perfectly fine in a Series S, then they took it over to a friends' who had a Series X, inserted it and got the error I showcased in the video. Worst part is, they then took the adapter home and put back in the original Series S and they still got the error and were unable to use it ever again... which makes me believe there's some Microsoft trickery going on. Since there's no real way of knowing exactly what causes the error (which makes it unusable) I can't recommend people waste their money trying to get it to work.

@@tbtekuk That's an interesting scenario, I don't have a Series S to test that with, however I can say that I've used the drive with both my kids Series X consoles with no adverse affects. It makes me wonder if that individual had set up the drive to be used on multiple consoles or if they missed that and that's what caused the issue. Anyway, I get why you wouldn't recommend it, it's the safe way to go. At the time I went down this path this method was significantly cheaper so it seemed worth the risk to me. I got all three of my adapters for around $13 CAD, and the drives were roughly $120 for the SSSTC's and the WD cost me $140 CAD. At that time the 1TB Seagate drive was still $300 CAD. So, I figured the worst case was I overpaid for a few slow 2230 NVMe's 😂 Cheers man!

@@MenTal9R It's good that they are working for you! I think there are other uncontrollable factors potentially at play here too. Like the age of the consoles and/or firmware version of the drives themselves. Ultimately it's clear that it's not as simple as the sellers of the adaptors make out and it's almost a lottery for having the right hardware. My Series X is a fairly newish model dated February 2023, are yours by any chance older? With a lot of time and money spent it's probable that the issue(s) could be pinpointed but as you mention the time for it being relevant/worth it has passed, at least for the 1TB version. I have seen that MS are going to be releasing a 2TB series X in the near future and so it will be interesting to see what drives they use and if anyone is able to get those working in adaptors too.

@@tbtekuk That could be related, my three X's are all day one launch models. Yes, I was thinking the same thing about the 2TB versions. I'm expecting to see drives show up on eBay hehe... The problem that really irritates me is that it still comes down to them using 2 channel drives instead of 4 channel drives. Beyond just the cost savings of splitting the 4 native PCI-E channels the CPU has, I starting to think they did this on purpose to make it difficult to do anything other than buy their expansion drives & to force people to have them repair consoles when the internal drives fail. I seriously hate crap like that as I'm firmly on the side of DIY. I mentioned this part in my video. IMHO.. what Xbox should do (to be consumer friendly) is produce an adapter for the expansion slot that down converts a Gen 4.0x4 NVMe to a Gen 4.0x2 channel drive and allows for a full 2280 drive to fit. They could just have the CF-Express portion that plugs into the console and a 6" cable that connects to the housing & the housing's chipset would do the down-conversion. This could work simply because if you plug a gen 4.0 x4 channel drive into a Single channel PCI-E adapter and drop it into a slot in your PC it works fine. It down converts, and the drive is just slower. I actually thought someone would have made something like this by now. Perhaps there's some sort of firmware restriction, but if that's the case, Xbox could probably eliminate that requirement via a patch. If not it's incredibly scummy. I'm tempted to get one of the LE Series X 2TB consoles, but they're going to be so expensive here in Canada, I just have a hard time justifying it hehe... The prices on all the consoles should be way down by now. Every single component in them has dropped in price dramatically since they launched.

@@MenTal9R Well interestingly the majority of people who have reported success have day one/early released consoles. May be something to note. Interesting idea with the 2280 adaptors but ultimately this was a point blank intentional design to monopilise the storage expansion market. Same as what they did with the internal drives, making an additional partition with a key that changes every update. Making it impossible to repair if the drive completely fails. It's to cut out the third party upgrades and repairs and make it so they financially benefit in as many situations as possible. Ultimately CFexpress is the wrong interface choice anyway since it maxes out at 4GB/s whereas PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMe's are often up to 7GB/s+. Would kind of be a waste to put a x4 NVMe on an interface that can only support the throughput of a x2 drive. But again x2 drives aren't common and MS know this, which adds another challenge to any repairs/upgrades and increases the likelihood that people will go directly to Microsoft for any services.

If you look at 3:44, you can see the third option is 'Move or copy'. You should then get the same screen listing everything. If you've only got 1 extra storage, bar the internal, then anything you tick and choose 'Save Changes' will be moved to the external storage. If you've got more than 1, then at the top there is a drop-down selection to select which storage to move it to.

@@tbtekuk Thanks for the response. Exactly, at 3:44, if I choose move/copy, only the whole game including base/addon is selectable (not broken out). The option you choose at 3:44 "manage installation on storage" is only add/remove, there is no move on that screen.

@@hh777hh What game is this? I know Call of Duty doesn't allow you to move the individual parts (Campaign, Multiplayer etc) to external storage... but technically they aren't 'Addons' just parts of the core game, which makes sense.

Unfortunately not. The ports, disc drive, buttons etc are located in different places. You would need to drill out additional holes to accommodate. Probably makes more sense to modify the existing or a spare One X housing.

From experience some do and some don't. Worst case scenario they are just the same as the original designed capacity. Just don't buy 'cheap' ones. I always use trusted suppliers for customers as it's not worth the risk.

The 'correct' firmware is unknown and I couldn't get hold of any when I searched.

Technically you can do it without removing the screen but because a level of force needs to be applied to remove the battery, it's best to detach the screen so that it isn't a hindrance and you don't cause any damage to the flex cables.

That's great! Glad I could help :)

In regards to screens, we are limited by the motherboard and the pinout for the screen connection cable. 9/10 there aren't any other spec options, especially for older laptops. I do often see anti-glare replacements but that's about it (for older laptops anyway). The resolution on the laptop in the video is 1366x768 so not FHD but still HD (above 720p) so it's adequate enough.

Since I uploaded the uploaded the video ive done some further research and it looks like another factor could be the firmware version of the drive. Something you'd never know until after you've purchased it. Ive also seen comments of people who had working ones and all they did was plug them into a different console and the error appeared, even when they put it back in the original console. There's just too many factors to manage and navigate, it's not worth risking the investment. Better to just buy the official ones even though the price is inflated.

Well the current processor is a 2nd Gen so you'll need to stick to one within the generation. That i3 is a Dual Core processor with a TDP of 35W, so the best one you could safely upgrade to is an i7-2640M. But if you find out that your mobo is ok booting the Quad Core processors with a higher TDP, then in theory you could upgrade all the way to the i7-2960XM (same as the one in the video). But value for money wise, the best choice at that point would be the i7-2760QM