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@@SuperHurdman I built the mil but my dad helped and my son helped some. I guess I’m just not a big I person.

@@whoblowsthere002thank you for the compliment. I spent most of my time building the saw head first since it was the most to figure out all the details and make it all function. The most time was in the tensioning system since it requires more tension than most think it does. If I was to build another I would do the same thing. Saw head first then the track to match the head unit. One thing I didn’t want to do was build something that I was constantly tinkering with. And fortunately I haven’t had to do that too much at all. Im glad I went bigger and more stout in areas. If you have any questions I’d be happy to help. I Wish you luck with everything.

@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron My only other question that has been difficult to uncover through forums and such. Im going to use square tube for the entire engine cradle/saw head. What size square tubing should I be looking at? I was thinking 2.5" x 1/8" for the frame and then a size up for the engine box slide tubing in 2.75 or whatever it comes to be. Or should I be looking at 3"x1/8" for the frame and the size up to 3.25" for the engine box slides? Is 1/8 wall enough or should it be 1/4 wall tubing?

@@whoblowsthere002 I used 2”- 3/16th wall for the whole frame. It’s very sturdy. The cross frame I used a 4x6 1/4” wall because that’s what hi came across. But also that size because it’s also the tank for my diesel fuel that drips on a felt pad that wipes the blade for lubrication. But I also have a water tank and use it sometimes too.

@@shelbyadams9955 thank you very much. We enjoy it for sure.

@@DanielParadis-sr5nh Thank you very much for the compliment. We sure enjoy it.

Yes

It is 22 HP and has proven to be plenty for my needs. Thanks for the comment.

That seems like a reasonable option for sure. Absolutely the least efficient part of a whole sawmill operation is handling the logs and off bearing slabs. I agree with your philosophy and idea.

Thank you. I’m still working on plans and will go back through and let people know if and when they’re done. But thank you very much for the compliment. It’s still working very well for us with no break downs yet. I shouldn’t say anything though. Ha.

Yes I sure have. One day maybe. For now it’s still working well and when I have some time to put to finishing the mill up it will either be hydraulic or electric driven. Probably electric since it will use less of the horsepower of the engine to run a pump. And would be cheaper.

First thank you very much and yes there is a plastic sleeve in between the inner tube and the outer tube. About 1/8” thick. It’s not a very tight fit but just enough to keep out sawdust and allow it to move freely. And also not bind. I went around with the idea of roller bearings and other ideas and I’m glad that I went this route as it works very well still and no signs of wearing as well as not bouncing when cutting either. This plastic piece is something I made on my lathe.

Thank you that’s an amazing compliment. I really appreciate it. We still enjoy it very much and I’m glad we fought through making it.

Thanks for checking it out and the nice comment.

Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for checking out the video. Somewhere I show a close up. I know I did a second video and it might have shown more close ups. And the arm for the adjustable guide takes some figuring for sure. And I believe I showed how I made the tightening of the guide arm bearings which helps adjust the exact placement. And I do believe I also showed more of the bearings close up on the second video. If that doesn’t help let me know. I can get something better.

Hey thank you very much for that comment. It was labor of love and that hasn’t gone away. We enjoy using every time and finish with a big smile that it all came together.

Great build btw. Very well thought out. I'll be borrowing several idea's from yours.

That’s awesome. The whole head unit is so beefy that it doesn’t tweak at all. But I was very concearned of it being built strong enough as to not jerk while sawing. Which can happen with each tooth trying to bite. I’m glad I went over board kind of to make sure it was strong. And the cable was an after thought because of how heavy the head unit is to push. And I haven’t even been quick to get to the power feed because this works so well. Someday though I will.

Yes I do have a brazing tip. This time I chose to try the torch for more heat to keep the cast warm over a larger area. That was my thought process. Trying something I guess. Usually I do use just the welding brazing tips though. It is easier for sure I agree. Thanks for the comment.

I absolutely would consider helping someone! This was joy for me to make and every time I use it I’m amazed it all came together and works good without a bunch of tinkering. To make another one now would be some much easier than the first one.

@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron do you have a Facebook that I could talk to you on?

Thank you that’s great. I had the idea of doing that as well. Does it work well for you?

I hear ya. Fun stuff if you can swing it somehow.

Thank you. I appreciate it

Thank you very much I appreciate that.

@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron Still planning on building my own. you mentioned things you would do differently if you built another one. what would those things be? Also my self not having a lathe limits my abilities to manufacture.

Yes 18.75. Surplus center wheels are what I order to replace the broken one and it was the exact same as the original I ordered from ebay.

@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron Are those what you would recommend? The band mill I built and sold I used 19" Cooks solid steel with a slight crown, but they are a little pricey. I saw these we're very reasonably priced! I'm going to build another one. Gathering parts now. You done a great job on your mill!

@@melvinjohnson7981 thank you very much for the compliment. The wheels I have work well yes. Other than the first one breaking. But if I had to do it again I think I would go with cooks wheels. For sure a superior product but these have worked great for the price for sure.

What size of belt are used on those band wheels ,B56 or B57? Flat ,or crowned. I'm sorry to ask so many questions ,but I've never ran the groove type wheels.

Thanks Don. I hope your doing well.

Thanks for watching. Yes the heat has been brutal sometimes. Today was no exception.

I’m not following your question. Sorry about that. But thanks for watching.

Thank you very much. The mill is around 58-60” center of wheel to center of wheel. For a 171” blade. Max width for us is 37.5” that took some doing with the guides but we squeezed it in. And the posts max width is 40” between them I think. If you have any other questions feel free to ask for sure.

We’re in northeast Ohio. I believe grow zone 6. And our plants have been in the ground 12 days now. But they were also mostly 6” tall when planted too. But I think they have been doing very well in this compost.

@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron Thanks.

Yes my suggestion to that is to cut your can’t a bit over sized as your cutting not so much in your width but the height as your cutting down through the cant. And as you get at the pith or the center to them flip the log and cut off the bow. Like 1/2” then start taking of your boards whatever they may be. 4/4 or whatever. This is where having a scale that is movable comes into play. Say if you were wanting 12” wide boards and 12 boards to come off the can’t which would be somewhere in the range of 12” plus 1/8” times 11 cuts. If that makes sense. The scale is set at 1 1/2 at the 1” mark so that when you flip the cant you then set the scale at 1” at the 1” mark and you will be removing 1/2” price first. And usually it is 1/2” at ends and 1/4” in the middle from tension. If this didn’t come across with any sense I would be happy to make a video explaining it. Thanks for watching.

Hello sister…it’s me. Hi.