วีดีโอ

@@ashercohen4739 Thank you for watching and commenting! You can check out the video I have on reading wiring diagrams and if there’s anything I missed or you still need help with reading, just let me know and I’ll make another video to cover it!

@@johnmitchell8925 that is correct. I never purchased anything beyond the 1 year sunscription and realistically I mostly went for the monthly subscriptions because I didn’t plan on working on the specific car constantly, so I just bought as needed. However, that is also personal preference as to what subscription is best for you, but, you are correct in the pricing, and it seems Mitchell is the obvious better deal. The only factor that comes into play is personal preference again, and which platform you like better. I happen to like alldata better and the way they structure their information. Also, I can’t speak on alldata’s site being down because I have not experienced it at all, and I use it constantly. Although I have upgraded to the professional subscription, I’m not sure if it’s entirely the same in terms of how the website runs or performs, so you may be correct there as well, I am just not aware of that, and I personally have never seen any down time on alldata. Thank you for the info, and for commenting. Let’s get out there and fix something!

I feel your pain as well! And, I agree. This was nothing but pure laziness on my part for not doing the research and checking wiring diagrams first. I just ASSUMED that I screwed up when I put the dash back on and I stay (wrongfully) focused on that, and it cost me quite a few hours for a foolish mistake. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@RelaxingVibes202 Hello. What are you looking for help with?

@@noprosgarage 1997 VW golf VR6 2.8 12 valve wiring diagram

@@RelaxingVibes202 I’m not understanding what it is you would like from me. What system are you looking to work on? Are you asking me to help you understand a specific wiring diagram or asking for me to get you one? I cannot provide you with one if that is what you’re asking

@@davidbarretto5511 yea, unfortunately it does. That upper control arm bolt cannot come out without removing the gas tank. Unfortunately the head side of that bolt is really close to the gas tank but it passes through a few inches of metal before it gets to pass through the control arm, so even if you were to cut that bolt off on the nut side, you wouldn’t be able to push the bolt out of the hole because the gas tank is still in the way. I hope that helps you and wasn’t confusing in any way 👍🏻

@@noprosgarageno completely understood it I also snapped the clips where were you able to find replacements?

@@davidbarretto5511 Im sorry, it's been quite a while since I did this job or watched the video to refresh my memory. What clips are you referring to?

@@swansonbrown6736 hey, yes, I have one video on reading wiring diagrams. If you can’t find information you’re looking for in that video, let me know and I’ll help you out, or make another video on it

@@arthura7442 thanks for that feedback. You make a good point there, and I will use that advice in the future. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻

Thank you for the feedback. I agree that having this type of information easily available is a necessity to be able to fix cars these days. A lot of people complain about the price, but I have been very hard pressed to find any information like this for free. I know there are forums, and you tube videos, etc. but the truth is, it is hard to know what information is accurate and what isn’t, coming from people we’ve never met. So, it is tough to find trustworthy information, as much as it is hard to find a trustworthy shop! So I believe the information we can get from Mitchell or Alldata, or Motologic, or Identifix, is well worth the price they charge. I just happen to prefer Alldata. Best of luck to you! Let’s get out there and fix something!

You’re welcome. I hope it helped you, and if there’s any other videos you want to see, leave me a comment and I’ll do my best to make it happen 👍🏻

did this work for you?

@ivandrago2557 thank you, I appreciate that! I hope I explained it well. Voltage drop is a very accurate way to pinpoint an issue if you know how to use it!

@joee7626 thank you for the feedback. I thought that I might have over complicated it or drug it out too long, but then I also thought that maybe I wasn’t, because there are a lot of people that have a very hard time grasping voltage drop. I appreciate your comment. 👍🏻

I have tried using the alldata app with no success, so I just use it from the internet browser whether it’s on my phone or a computer. I will try it again to see if I can get an answer for you, but as of now unfortunately, I can’t help you with that question.

jroche26, that’s a cool trade to get into. I have some equipment for it myself, I have an im608, a dolphin xl005 (if that’s the right model number), and a few lishi tools. I am not a locksmith at all but I am trying to learn some of these immo systems. As far as a program for locations, to be honest, I’ve only used identifix, mitchell pro demand, and alldata. I happen to like alldata the best personally, but like anything else they all have their places and uses, and it’s beneficially to have multiple information sources if you could afford it. I only have alldata personally, but it does give you locations of modules and connectors and harnesses, etc. Pricing wise though, I think they are roughly all about the same, coming in about roughly $125-$200 a month for all access on most all cars. They also have diy versions where you pay roughly between $40-$60 per car for the year, but you would wind up spending way more money for the amount of cars you will be working on

There are also a lot of other software sources that may be better suited for what you’re looking for, but I’m not familiar with any other ones, so I can’t speak to their pricing or if they have everything you’re looking for. I hope that helps. If you need more help and want to give me a specific car, I can look it up on my subscription and see if they have what you’re looking for. This way you can get an idea about if alldata will work for you

Thank you for that! I’m glad to know I’m helping people, even if it’s only a little bit! Let me know if there’s anything specific that you want to learn more of, or as far as tracing the wiring goes, and I’ll be glad to add them into a video the best I can! I look forward to your feedback! And stick with it man, it will start to make more sense the more you do it, and then one day it’ll click for you! You got this!

Hi Jimmy. No, there is no difference between the pro version and diy version as far as the wiring diagrams go. There are a few other differences, with the main one being that with the pro version, you get access to ALL vehicles and as many as you want, while the diy version, you pay per vehicle. I hope that helps!

Mine broke on the rear driver as well. I was thinking of running the bolt on the opposite side as well. No way in hell am i doing all that bs for a bolt

Yep, same here. Just finished the job by cutting off the head of the bolt and ran a new one backwards as you have both stated. Added a little locktite for good measure. BS to have to drop the tank.

theres a reason all engineers designing cars should have a mechanic with them when their figuring these things out so when they do something stupid the mechanic can crack them across the knuckles with a wrench

Yea, European cars suck. I tend to stay away from them. However, I’ve worked on Jeeps, Hondas, Toyotas, dodges, Chevys, Fords, and out of all of those, these Libertys are built pretty shitty. But, I do agree, there are WAY worse out there for sure.

You can put a jack under the rear differential or axle tube, and start coming up on the jack. Watch which way the suspension moves. It should move in the direction you need. If not, reposition the jack, and try again until you get the movement you need

Thats kinda where its jacked up could i put a heavy duty ratchet strap on the right side of axle an right side frame an safely pull it foward like that ? Or wpuld i have to move the jack from the diff first?

@@osavage3136 you definitely could try a heavy duty ratchet strap, if not, maybe you’re up too high on the differential, and you need to let off the jack and see which way the suspension moves. Obviously put a jack stand under the frame first before you let off of the jack

Thank you i appreciate it def gonna sub to ur channel helped alot💯🤞

@@osavage3136 No problem at all. Glad I could help! Thank you for the sub! 🤙🏻

Yes they do!

Awesome thanks man currently replacing the upper intake gasket on my Buick lesabre with the 3800 series 2 engine with that plastic plenum there worst design (plastic with hot metal) lol

@@joshh9003 No problem! Lol absolutely man! These engineers got it “figured out” though 🙄 (yea right). Alldata and Mitchell both offer torque specs, I just find that alldata is easier to find what you’re looking for. Good luck with the gasket replacement, they’re usually somewhere around 80-106 inch pounds (not always though) so, make sure you have a good, low end torque wrench!

Thanks for the feedback! That was my original intent with this channel, and then I figured I’d ask you guys and see what you all thought. Again, Thank you for the input! And thanks for watching!

Yea, it does for sure! Luckily my trade doesn’t require me to be on graveyard all the time! However, sometimes I can be on graveyard for a week, and sometimes it will last a few months. Either way, it’s not fun, and I respect anybody who works that shift at all, ESPECIALLY those who work it constantly for all of their career.

I like alldata the best. I found them to be the easiest to use

@@noprosgarage ok I got u but what version please?

@@Authentic60th alldatadiy. I left a link in the description, but it’s alldata.com/diy Also, where are you located? If you are not located in the USA, I’m not sure if they will have what you’re looking for. The “diy” version from what I can tell seems to only be available in the USA and Canada regions. So if you have a car from Europe alldata.com/diy might not have the information you’re looking for. I hope this helps you!

@@noprosgarage ok now I understand, I base in Nigeria.

@@Authentic60th Ok. I hope I was able to help you

I agree 100%. You can never really have “too much” information, it all just depends on what you’re comfortable spending!

Hey Tom! Yes, identifix does have a “diy” but it seems to be expensive to me. Its $20 a month, but unless you cancel it when you don’t need it (like you haven’t worked on the car in a while) it’s a recurring charge which equals $240 a year for 1 vehicle. That seems pretty hefty to me. The pico 3000 series is a good scope, just always be mindful of your input voltage capability. I appreciate your subscription, and I will continue to put out content that will help you get more comfortable for sure!

And yes, they do make it look easy lol!

Identification has a diy 20 dollar a month cancel at any time But it’s not all access

Thank you for that. It can be rough, but it’s part of the job. Luckily, I’m not ALWAYS on night shift, but it can last quite a few months and 12 hour nights. So, I am trying to put out content as I can. Thank you for watching!

@@noprosgarage Peace Sir.

I’m glad it helped you out! 👍🏻

You’re welcome!