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Yeah, my wife loves the bike and refuses to replace it with a modern, lighter, faster bike.

I used some basic latches from the hardware store that are 2 cm wide and 4 cm long. I initially used them on the plastic case, but then when the rear hinge split, I gave up on the plastic case. As for keeping the bits in place, it’s a piece of roughly 1 cm thick stiff foam. I used in my plastic case initially for the same reason.

Practice, but they’re not that thick, and I didn’t wear them while packing the bearings.

Yes, check the description for the exact model. They are fairly easy to swap out.

@@randomtasks thanks, gotta check then out. Did you have to do any fitting work or did they just go straight in

@@Attack-fb5rj There was no modification work required, although I think I might have mounted them from the bottom instead of the top. I would need to watch the video to check, so I recommend you do that.

The speakers are covered in the Part 1 video.

@@randomtasks allright, I somehow missed the part where you did the rear speaker install but I will look again. Been looking for fitting size speakers for the 9-3, thanks a lot.

I like it. It’s definitely brighter, but more importantly, it has a nice flat beam. I’ll probably like it even more in winter on my dark commute.

You must live in Canada with a 200kilo speedometer and those old townhouses and such. At least you don`t have a steering wheel on the passenger side.

It is possible to open it up. It was just screwed together.

It’s more expensive because there are less companies that offer insurance for electric motorbikes/scooters. Once more companies offer it, the prices should drop. I had to change insurance companies after the conversion.

It’s hard to get a shot of that in video. There’s very little slack. It just clicks into place.

My BMS came with a BT module. Try searching your relevant App Store for 彦阳BMS.

Hi Luca, sorry, but I’ve never fixed a cassette deck before. I created this based on forum threads that I had read. I suggest you do some research on relevant forums and see if anyone else has had the same problem and managed to solve it.

I did this over the course of 2 months, working only on weekends. Part of that time was spent mocking up the coupling bracket between the two swing arms, and then waiting for it to be manufactured. If I were to do the same exact conversion again, I would order what I needed ahead of time and could get it done in two weekends. As for cost, the bracket was roughly £200 and the aftermarket performance controller was about £300. I already had all of the NIU components, so that was probably about £800 worth of stuff, including the battery and charger.

@@randomtasksthanks for the info. I have a 2016 Sprint with a blown motor and was thinking whether I should pick up a used motor for around $800-$1000 or try a EV conversion. I'm mechanically inclined but I'm a total n00b to the EV game. So that has me a little trigger shy.

If you can find one, the ideal donor would be an electric moped that’s been in an accident. You need the whole wiring harness and lots of little components, so it’s best to get a whole moped if you can.

@@randomtasks ah ok ok, thanks. Any insights on which ones I should be looking out for?

@@tonytran1420 The NIU scooters are fairly reliable and common. As I showed in the videos, the NQI series battery fit perfectly under my seat. The MQI batteries are a different shape, so you need to take that into account if you find one of those. Super Soco scooters are good as well, but I’m not sure what the batteries are like in terms of dimensions. Take some measurements of the under seat storage of your Sprint and do some research on battery dimensions.

No problem!

I got mine from Aliexpress. The vendors change all the time, so you just need to search their site and you’ll eventually find the right one.

I’m glad you liked it. Admittedly, I’ve installed dozens of audio systems, so I might have glossed over the wiring. Basically, an amp needs constant power, a ground, and a remote turn on signal (so it turns on and off with the stereo). Given that there was an old amp that had power and ground wires, I reused them. I tested which wire was which with my multi meter. For the remote turn on, I connected the wire to the power antenna connection. Other than that, its audio in and audio out.

@@randomtasks very helpful, THANKS!

I’ve got another video on how I modified a Jeep head unit to add an aux input. There might be away to do something similar, but I haven’t investigated it. Alternatively, you could do an FM modulator.

For the first generation ECU (up until early 2018), the GPS is inside the ECU. For the 2nd and 3rd generation ECU, it’s mounted on the outside of the ECU case.

See my response to your comment on my other video.

Thank you

Yes, this is an excerpt of my body panel swap video where I swap the white panels for green. The ECU is the black box that I point out in the video.

I never said that I would show you how to remove the battery from the ECU, just how to remove the ECU itself. You can open up the ECU yourself, but you will void your warranty (if you still have one).

I’m glad you liked the video

Hi, just search for "NIU BMS" on AliExpress.com and you will find a few for sale. You just need to find one that works with the voltage and amperage ratings of your battery. www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-niu-bms.html?spm=a2g0o.home.search.0

The one I bought was under $40 USD including shipping (within the UK): www.racing-planet.co.uk/cover-brown-vespa-p-183681-1.html There must be an equivalent for sale in the US . . .

And there it is: www.racingplanetusa.com/seat-cover-brown-vespa-p-195085-1.html

No, it has a stereo output.

Yes and no. The gaskets stopped water getting in the lights and from entering the boot around that area. I also found water leaking in from one of the seams halfway up the edge of the hatch. I used some silicon and that seemed to help.

Also, if I were to do it again, I would probably opt for 3mm thick neoprene.

I didn’t go it because I didn’t have any handy. Either way, it sounded good to me. I was happy with the setup.

Thank you very much!

Thanks, I’m going to add some protection on the outside after I sand and oil the case. The thinness of the bottom panel does worry me, but it will mostly be standing on end or laying on the bottom panel, so it might be OK. If something happens, I can repair it, unlike the old plastic case.

Thanks for the sub!

Yes, almost every car is like this. Even if the speaker grill can be removed separately from the door panel, it’s usually held in place by fasteners that must be accessed from the back.

I'm glad you liked the video. I have no idea what the problem is with the BMS, but replacing it is a lot cheaper than replacing the battery. Obviously a $5 fix would be even better.

And what is the solution for reset?

@@Gehtdichnichtsan583 You could try disconnecting the BMS, waiting a few minutes, and then plugging it back in. I heard once that this might work, but I have never tried it.

@@randomtasks I already tried that no chance. I guess new bms then for me too

This helped a bit, but I also had/have the problem with water coming in via the seem. I used some silicon on both sides and managed to fix on the left side, but I still have the problem on the right. I might have fixed it yesterday. I removed the rubber gasket going on the right side of the gutter and noticed that the metal was bent down, which could have allowed a path for water. I fixed it and reinstalled it. It rained last night, so I need to go check for water . . .

Thanks for that additional information about the seam. Too cold in Connecticut right now to use silicone or other sealer so I put some of that silver tape (the thin aluminum tape used for insulation) over the seam on the side that leaked and that stopped it completely. I had previously sealed up the taillight but still had some leakage. @@randomtasks

Discharge

It’s a 29ah battery. The batteries in the NGT and GTS versions are 35ah.

You're welcome!

I'm glad the video was useful. There should be a 5-pin DIN jack on the back of the radio. This is the pre-amp output. I bought a 5-pin DIN to phono cable from Amazon and plugged that into the aftermarket amp. This is covered in Part 2. Here's the cable I bought: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M0FXR8A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

@@randomtasks Thank you so much for the info! May I ask, this 5-pin cable, what is the output from it? In other words, the red, white, yellow and black cables emmanating from it? I'm wondering if it's possible to buy an amp so that these cables can be the input straight into it. Are these four cables essentially the (+) and (-) for both door speakers? I.e. four cables.

@@eliasholenhannouch807 The four cables represent one channel each (i.e. front left, front right, rear left, rear right). Each of the cables has a phono jack, which has the standard polarity of the centre pin being positive and the outside being negative. I cannot remember which colour was for which channel, but once you hook up an amp, it's easy enough to experiment.

​​@@randomtasksthat confuses me a little bit. If the 5-pin has front left/right and rear left/right signals coming out of it, then if that's the case, which two of these signals do you use for the door speakers? Since you are only running two speakers through the amp, right?

@@eliasholenhannouch807 No, I am running all six speakers through the amp. Watch Part 2 of my audio upgrade videos. You will see that I install component speakers in the front doors and dash and then coax 6x9's in the rear. These are all powered by a 4 channel amp.

I ended up re-doing the gaskets again using thinner material (6 mm vs 10 mm). I also found that water seemed to be leaking in the seam just above the boot lid bump stops. I scraped away the old seal and used some silicon. This seems to have solved the problem. For now.

Hi, it's 彦阳BMS. The aftermarket BMS needs to have a BlueTooth module, and then it should connect.

It's not cheap, but it's high quality and it just works. I save roughly £15 each day that I don't take the train to work. I ride in at least 10 times per month, so that's £150 per month, or £1,800 per year.

Years of practice. :-)

Du är välkommen.

The GPS module is attached to the ECU, so if you unplug the ECU, it will completely disconnect it from the main batteries.

Hi, it's 彦阳BMS. The aftermarket BMS needs to have a BlueTooth module, and then it should connect.

Hi, I bought it from sinnisparts.com/

Yo no hablo español.

Not only do you have a lock problem, but you have an alarm problem as well. I don't have a guaranteed solution for you, but before you drill both locks (there is also the battery compartment release lock under the seat), I recommend contacting your local dealer to see if they have a solution. Maybe your VIN is linked to a specific key that can be ordered. Your VIN is under the seat, which you can't access, but your ownership papers should also have it listed. Good luck.

Thanks, I bought JL Audio C1-650 component speakers.

Sorry, can’t help with that. Check out the NIU website and/or consult the user manuals.

Depending on the generation of ECU, the GPS unit is mounted on the ECU or inside it.