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I add a Redex cleaner every year to keep the fuel system clean. I believe it works and will always use it on my vehicles.

I cant see what went wrong... I mean what would a mechanic do different? I want to do this by my own and i got very confused by the aftermath.

I am trying to fix left hand drive 2006 version but can't find this thing. Anyone know where it is?

just use the best diesel possible and make sure you do drive it hard when possible .

I've used Redex dpf cleaner for many years and never let me Down plus Diesel injector cleaner.😁

redex is simply amazing.

Had dpf issue on my car, limp mode, £300 to clean... now use dpf cleaner additives and no issues so far..... so if the manufacturers are so good with testing etc.... why do we get EGR and DPF issues ?

Hi can u send u number same problem in my car starting problem I will speak with u

🇬🇧 👍🏽 January 2025! *This chappie - GLC HOW? = the best videos for this problem, on the Internet!* Additional note: This is a _massive_ problem - given how common Toyotas with this engine are. *NOTE* *1)* This video talks about an 'ECU reset' procedure *2)* It (or another one of his on this problem) - also mentions how, many people are finding that the problem seemed to be fixed when they changed this or that (e.g. starter motor 🙄) *3)* Even me - I changed the battery for brand new - & that 'definitely fixed' the problem (i.e. very problematic cold-starts/first start of day - to - starting first time, even in very cold weather) *BUT IN ALL OF THIS...* 📍𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙡𝙮𝙣𝙘𝙝𝙥𝙞𝙣 𝙬𝙖𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙗𝙖𝙩𝙩𝙚𝙧𝙮 𝙙𝙞𝙨𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙣𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 & 𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙣𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣!!📍 It's as simple as that. Yes - the SCV can get little stuck (bad design). Yes - warming it can help. And yes - you absolutely should at least have a healthy battery - because I think the voltage-drop from cranking leaves too little current for the SCV - meaning the plunger doesn't move as properly as it needs. Etc, etc. But - the _simple_ battery reset seems to be the actual solution - most of the time!

🇬🇧 👍🏽 January 2025! *This chappie - GLC HOW? = the best videos for this problem, on the Internet!* Additional note: This is a _massive_ problem - given how common Toyotas with this engine are. *NOTE* *1)* This video talks about an 'ECU reset' procedure *2)* It (or another one of his on this problem) - also mentions how, many people are finding that the problem seemed to be fixed when they changed this or that (e.g. starter motor 🙄) *3)* Even me - I changed the battery for brand new - & that 'definitely fixed' the problem (i.e. very problematic cold-starts/first start of day - to - starting first time, even in very cold weather) *BUT IN ALL OF THIS...* 📍𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙡𝙮𝙣𝙘𝙝𝙥𝙞𝙣 𝙬𝙖𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙗𝙖𝙩𝙩𝙚𝙧𝙮 𝙙𝙞𝙨𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙣𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 & 𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙣𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣!!📍 It's as simple as that. Yes - the SCV can get little stuck (bad design). Yes - warming it can help. And yes - you absolutely should at least have a healthy battery - because I think the voltage-drop from cranking leaves too little current for the SCV - meaning the plunger doesn't move as properly as it needs. Etc, etc. But - the _simple_ battery reset seems to be the actual solution - most of the time!

🇬🇧 👍🏽 January 2025! *This chappie - GLC HOW? = the best videos for this problem, on the Internet!* Additional note: This is a _massive_ problem - given how common Toyotas with this engine are. *NOTE* *1)* This video talks about an 'ECU reset' procedure *2)* It (or another one of his on this problem) - also mentions how, many people are finding that the problem seemed to be fixed when they changed this or that (e.g. starter motor 🙄) *3)* Even me - I changed the battery for brand new - & that 'definitely fixed' the problem (i.e. very problematic cold-starts/first start of day - to - starting first time, even in very cold weather) *BUT IN ALL OF THIS...* 📍𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙡𝙮𝙣𝙘𝙝𝙥𝙞𝙣 𝙬𝙖𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙗𝙖𝙩𝙩𝙚𝙧𝙮 𝙙𝙞𝙨𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙣𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 & 𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙣𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣!!📍 It's as simple as that. Yes - the SCV can get little stuck (bad design). Yes - warming it can help. And yes - you absolutely should at least have a healthy battery - because I think the voltage-drop from cranking leaves too little current for the SCV - meaning the plunger doesn't move as properly as it needs. Etc, etc. But - the _simple_ battery reset seems to be the actual solution - most of the time!

I’m battling a WEIRD issue with brake fluid on Ford Focus. Basically got the car neglected and the brake fluid (clutch too) was below minimum, so I topped it up straight away, after two weeks noticed that clutch pedal could be stuck, replaced master cylinder and flushed/bleed system and all was fine and dandy for 800miles and so…then one day got a blink on dashboard “brake fluid low” looked at reservoir and it was pretty much empty. Checked everywhere for leaks, nothing, absolutely nothing anywhere, pedals feels normal no issues, topped it up again but noticed black hazy cloudy things in the reservoir, not a lot but they’re there. Absolutely confused what the F is going on. But will be looking at restoring almost everything this spring.

My practice is to suck out the reservoir and bleed brakes on every brake change even if it is just the front brakes

Bro why u doing this barefoot hahahaha

just use a good quality fuel such as shell BP Texaco ect and avoid the supermarket brands there is a difference in the the final blend between brands the supermarket brands would be at the lower end of quality.

This is why as 40 years a mechanic, I drive a EV . Never been happier & cash in my pockets 😊😮😊

1 liter of petrol in a full tank of diesel (40 liter tank)

No they want you to buy new parts more often thats why they dont want you to use them

I have repeatedly proven to myself over the years that REDEX does exactly what it says on the bottle. I bought a cheap Fiat Grande Punto for my son some years ago. It was running poorly and I hoped I could fix it. It was so bad, I had to drop it down to first gear to get up our hill. I ran 3 tankfuls of REDEX through it (nothing else) and after the third it was a completely different car. It flew up our hill in third gear with ease. I then fully serviced it and after that it was even better. That car served my son well for four years before he bought a new car (new to him) REDEX? It works. 👍

i watched the whole video and followed every step. But somewhere i must have missed an action in the protocol which caused my engine (d4d, 2.2 l, 100 kW diesel, 2008) not to be reset. Is there a checklist with the different steps available? i noticed that you keep the brake pedal depressed, that the handbrake is pulled up... is the gear lever in a certain position? in short, is there a checklist? by the way: great video....

I have Battery Tender, and they say it's ok to charge the battery while it's still connected in the car. Just connect the positive first then the negative. Do the disconnection in reverse order: negative then positive. Your idea of not connecting the charger to power until after you connect the cables to the battery makes this point moot. 👍 Thanks for the informative video.

Ordered the seal. Hope it helps

Badly titled, as you speak only about diesel fuel additives, a dying sector of the market, and don’t talk about petrol fuel additives! It’s all talk, no testing and total waste of time!

Perhaps if we could go back to when Redex was the only UCL, we would be better. All the 'clean up' equipment added to diesel and petrol cars which build in failure at a later date. I run a Golf diesel Bluemotion, to avoid the dreaded DPF light coming on I put a bottle of DPF cleaner every 4th tankful as I rarely do long journeys these days.

Just coming here to report my results using Redex. My 2015 Ford Transit Connect 1.6 tdvi was getting 43-46 mpg on the motorway with careful driving. The van had been used for very short trips in traffic for a couple of years so I thought I'd try some Redex to clean out any build-up. Did the same 120 mile drive yesterday and got 53 mpg, so an increase of about 10 mpg compared to previous runs of the same route. Based other people's results I was expecting either no increase or a marginal increase of a couple of mpg. Absolutely astonished by the results.

Can it be replaced with another non-original one, for example, a Rav 4?

Now you're talking about petrol engines.

Did you notice any improvements in engine performance?

I don’t really see the problem, brake fluid is relatively cheap and it’s an easy job to do (or for a garage a very easy job not to do!). Simply suck the fluid from the reservoir, refill then pump fluid through each caliper in turn until fresh fluid comes out, job done.

Interesting. Thanks and cheers from the states.

I use millers eco max diesel in all of my cars and vans. Find it help with mpg and also with soot contents of the dpf’s.

Millers ecomax is one of the best 50ml to 50 litres used it for years.

How old was the fluid which was drained from a vehicle?

2000 ml 320 key wont turn left or right with dead battery. so cant get in to reach hood latch so genius explain how to open my hood ?

To fix: Do w40 then clean, and thank me later

To be fair, if your car doesn't need it, then it's not going to make any difference.

The testers are cheap and work well. Suspect in the majority of cases that changing the brake fluid is one of those tasks that dealers and independent garages do without it being really necessary as part of the overall brake inspection/service and it justifies them charging a higher fee. A lot of people can’t be bothered investing the TH-cam hours learning about the topic and end up paying the premium whereas…………….😊😊

'Why are there not recommneded' I think it's time to brush up on your English skills mate!

Fun fact alert , Redex was used on Lancaster bombers during ww2 . 👍🇬🇧

1:26

Dis-coloured fluid in the reservoir is a MOT point in the UK.

Just wondering….the VW brake fluid had a sticker 9/19 on it….the date it was opened perhaps? A good habit is to mark the opening date on the container.

The benefits of redex are mainly after use, so the 57 result was helped by the previous redex clean

Redex is not very good Archoil is much better

Stick a glug of 2 stroke oil into your tank,,, been doing this for years..

Super stupid hillbilly fix.

Thanks pal. Same issue,clutch is good.

I bought one of those testers, after I bought a four year old , very low mileage peugeot rifter , Previous owner had it serviced once, at the correct mileage not yearly, no brake fluid changed. I tested the brake fluid, it was near perfect. My very old car, hadn’t had a brake fluid change for three years, the tester found lots of moisture, but still not very bad, these testers work. Many years ago, a mechanic told me there is no need to change brake fluid every two years, in our climate it takes a lot longer before a change is actually needed, and that was based on years of garage work. Dealerships rip people off, with extremely high hourly rates, as they know people worry about smaller garages. In saying that, you need to avoid Halfords / National tyres garages. You can get Substandard work. A wheel nearly fell of my old car last month after they did some work. They claimed something else got lose, but it was the same drive shaft and hub they were working on..

Cold start problems with a diesel engine can often be down to something as simple as a bad heavy duty battery or bad or loose connections at the battery or bad or loose connection at the main connections to the glowplugs common rail connection .. and then there is of course the relay .. which is demonstrated here . the relay can become defective or indeed the connectios to said relay . and also the one nobody wants hear about the ecu or ignition circuit . . it saves a lot of trouble and trial and effort to have a good car . or vehicle electrician to check it out first . not the guys at the carparts shoppie as they are not always in fact hardly ever so trained on this technical stuff . hard to find a good car elecrician these days probably have to book her in to a proper motor electrical shop. for testing and fixing . but expensive.

Bought a 2 year old VW EV due it's first service. I declined the VW extortion and went to a good independent. The only brake "issue" which was not really an issue was that because an EV rarely uses brakes the pads need to be whipped out on a regular basis, pads and calipers cleaned up and greased. I changed the brake fluid at 3 years and will do the next change at 6 years. To date I have replaced the wiper blades and brake fluid and the car is now over 4 years old.