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Bravo.....what I like the best .....easy eraser walls........write all over it..........cover floor .....are u using air craft flooring......honey comb .....cheers

Great video. Thank you both for sharing. Really good information here 💪👍. Thanks again

How is the weather and sound proofing? I haven't heard anyone comment on how well it blocks sound coming from the outside. Do you find it sufficient for blocking weather and sound? Enough to sleep in if parked on the side of a road?

All RV's should be made this way.

be dure to take time out from your building it to "eff" as you keep alluding to "effin' time"...

I appreciate this video so much! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and lessons learned!

I love your build. I'm so glad I stumbled into your channel. its amazing how much my design and yours overlap! I have a couple of questions: 1- can you talk more about the Huckbolt rivet tool? also, is the frame rigidly mounted anywhere?! sorry if I missed it in the video . good luck on your build!

Not to mention you have the proper PPE for running bare rims on pavement 😂😂

I miss this channels posts, wishing for a return 😂

Hell yah! Good idea!

Can't you cut thru these with a hot knife to melt through them?

I'm considering a similar build, your videos have been a great source of information. Keep up the good work!

This video was full of information, edited together very well. I'm going to sub, love this type of content. Thank you! The humor was funny too

loving your alternative approach!

Just a thought or experiment. I want to build one in a way that no one else has ever done. My idea is to use moris and tennin joints at the seams of a 4x8 panel. Then put it together with glue and when it's dry fiberglass over the seams so you don't have to have all that aluminum. I have come up with my own design of putting this together too save weight. On a light weight trailer. It's basically like a big jigsaw puzzle. I'm wanting to put the whole thing together off the frame then hoist it up onto the trailer after it's all together. All that will be left afterwards will be bolting it too the frame. I have worked in construction for the last 34 years.

What r u guys doing for insurance? Waiting on a video build update

When choosing to weld you are also choosing to have to inspect periodically (often) as part of your maintenance program.

Connecting steel to aluminum will allow electrolysis to degrade the aluminum touching the steel and you will be unaware to what extent until/unless you separate the two (based on my career as an underwater robotic tech (ROV's) Granted, factors underwater are highly magnified compared to in-air applications. Using a thin (1mm) sheet of insulating material or a thin layer of grease (Dow #4 if I recall correctly ) between the two will inhibit/ interrupt this electrical connection. The better you build this the higher the resale value someday and it's fun from an engineering standpoint to do things well understanding most of the factors without going down any rabbit holes and getting lost in insignificant details.

According to my limited knowledge of the subject boatbuilders learned through real-world expereince hulls made of welded aluminum did not last over time due to vibration. Superstructures did. Seems to me an overland vehicle replicates the vibration a boat traveling at sea sees. Good choice here, I have thought for a while this is the way to go, rivets not welding. Re: aluminum corrosion due to electrolysis- zinc anodes, very inexpensive and easy to install, odds are replacement not required <10 years at least.

I purchased my 1999 Ford-E350, Triton V10, 15k mi, no collisions or damagae, for $1,250 through Facebook Marketplace. I saw the ad and 8 hours later I was in front of it buying it. It was a hurricane-damaged (front right roof) class-C RV (Thor, Four-Winds). I demolished and removed the coach in 6 trips from Houston in the driveway of the very nice man who sold it to me (SW Louisiana). He even contributed electricity for tools. I was able to take all the debris and discard them 7m away leaving them by the side of the road for the county to remove for free along with all the other piles of debris from properties hurricane damaged. Demolishing the coach I found the aluminum square tubing sub-frame embedded in the composite wall to be paper thin and Swiss cheese in most places. No zinc anodes were installed per the very negligent design & manufacturing. Zinc anodes are very inexpensive and easily installed. Effectively the aluminum sub-frame provided minimal strength IMO. My plans are to purchase a used, excellent condition 16'ft long x 8'ft x 8'ft, all-aluminum commercial cargo box with front air damn (~$2-3k). If it comes with a hydraulic rear gate lift great but not required. Not sure I would keep the lift anyway but during construction very useful. The downside to this vehicle is: I do not like engine access through the cab. This motor has an inherent flaw in that the engine design does not allow the spark plugs to be screwed in far enough. Some engines will eject the plugs during operation. There is a fix for this but it is not a minor job and requires special parts. Essentially a thread insert. I plan to cross that bridge in the future if required.

Bro, these videos are awesome!

I've seen comparable builds using poor mans fibre glass, Cotton painters drop cloth and titebond 3 wood glue over extruded construction foam. These glass on foam panels are bloody expensive by comparison, but definitely hard as hell

This is wicked inspiring! Looking to build something similar. Can you share the rear width of your rig from outside tire to outside tire? We are looking at a 7' wide habitat and are debating buying a dually (then super singles) for more width in the rear. Thanks!

Amazing! Love this kind of stuff. I wasn't planning on building with this - yet... but it gives me more ideas on what to possibly do later. Thank you.

Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

I would NEVER use a van they are a pane in the butt to work on because most of the motor is bot accessible from the hood and when you open the doghouse in the cab your looking at the back of the bell housing of the transmission.

Hello! We wanted to express our admiration for your content. Your videos are a joy to watch; we are always left feeling inspired and informed. At BeaverCraft Company, we are dedicated to providing high-quality tools for outdoor enthusiasts, and your channel aligns perfectly with our mission. We particularly enjoy the passion and enthusiasm you bring to each video, and we believe your followers would love our new product just as much as we do. We invite you to collaborate with us on a particular project. We want to offer you one of our flagship products from the BeaverCraft bushcraft line to feature in one of your upcoming videos. We believe either a knife or hatchet and adze would make an excellent addition to your gear, and we are confident your followers would be interested in learning more about it. We would love to work with you and believe this collaboration would benefit both of us. If you are interested in this opportunity, please do not hesitate to contact us. We look forward to hearing from you soon. Please contact us: im@beavercrafttools.com Or in instagram: beavercraft_tools Our BUSHCRAFT KNIVES: beavercrafttools.com/collections/bushcraft-knives Our AXES, HATCHETS AND ADZES: beavercrafttools.com/collections/axes-hatchets-and-adzes

I'm hoping more videos are coming. You guys are doing a great job. Maybe a cost breakdown video?

This is really great info. Thanks for the video!

I have use a Fein oscillating saw on fiberglass that worked pretty good and didn't grab much.

While alcohol will clean the surface of the aluminum so that your adhesive will stick initially, it doesn’t address the issue of aluminum oxidation. The surface of raw aluminum oxidizes over time and releases from the parent metal, and there goes your bond. Apply a conversion coating like Alodine to your raw aluminum pieces before gluing to them or powder coating them for greater adhesion longevity. Or better yet, have the pieces anodized. (You’ll need to grind off the anodic layer wherever you’ll be welding.)

Do you have a parts list of everything you’re using (spring system, brackets, etc.) listed somewhere?

Really good video, lots of information to get started with. Thank you!

Loving this build. I love that you're using aluminum and huck bokts! So smart. Great info RE corrosion issues

Pretty cool build so far. I have a trailer that I want to build and your strategy would be great for that project. Thanks for sharing.

Killer build! I am looking to do a similar build with the same lift and tires from U joint. Can you tell me how high the roof of the cab is with the 37's and 6" lift? I will be doing a pop top as well and want to fit in the garage. Thanks so much, subbed and excited to see the next stages!

Good idea to build a full scale model. Especially since building from scratch you get full feel of usable space.

Why aluminum? Pull-truded high strength fiberglass would have less thermal expansion differences to the panels.

And wondering how a flat panel box truck loses mpg compared to an aerodynamic curved B van.

Waiting to hear an R value and whether that's open or closed cell foam. Fire retardant?

I would love to be able to build things out of these composite panels, but nobody will sell them to you unless you’re a contractor

Awesome! Just found your channel, I'd love you to do a video on why you didn't like the exoskeleton route... I'm thinking of going exo so it would be great to see all the issues you encountered, what you did and didn't like about it etc. 😁

Beautiful, amazing you can drive out on that point.

Epic footage!

Good video thanks for sharing. God bless you and yours.

So generous of you to take the time to share your experience. Thank you!

The angle was .25 thick, is all the aluminum square tubing the same .25 thick?

Epoxy for fixing delam - Any kind of epoxy?

Wow, thanks. I work on boats. Great information

Language was a turn off watching