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If there is a check engine light on the dash, you can get the codes read at a parts store like O'reily or Autozone. If no check engine light, then I would check spark plugs first, especially if they have more than 125K miles on them. If those are good, I would clean the Mass Air Flow sensor. If it is neither of those, then it could be a lot of other things such as O2 Sensor, or Coolant Temp Sensor, but hopefully there are trouble codes stored in the engine computer. Good luck, thanks for watching.

@ fuel pump?

It's basically the same process except you will need to turn both sides equally. The best way is to take a sharpie or some other ink marker and make some marks on the turnbuckles each side and the main bar going across and on the tie rods. Anything to keep track of the number of turns so you don't lose track. I would do like quarter turn marks on each one. Then, just make sure you turn each one that same number of turns. This will keep the alignment the same and will only affect your pitman arm and your steering wheel location. The direction of the turnbuckles should be the same on both sides. Also, I would start with only like a quarter or half turn on each side and then drive it to see, because a little bit goes a long way. Good luck.

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching.

Agreed. If I was going to reuse the belt the little tool has a removal function as well but it would probably work better from the bottom. Thanks for watching.

Yeah, I would definitely keep the awning rolled up and put some clamps on the edges to keep it rolled. If I would have had two tall ladders, things would've went much easier. I've seen everyone else completely unrolling the awning on the ground and then trying to fish it into the top rail, all the while it is getting hung up on everything and has a chance to get torn. Good luck.

I will check my receipt when I get home, hopefully I still have it. But I'm pretty sure the two fixed pulley kits are 126124 (pulley and fat washer) and this part number replaces the old 604231 which has the smaller dia and longer length spacer. I remember looking all this up before I went to Hustler dealer. But, I will double check on my receipt, assuming I still have it.

I found the receipt and the part number is the 126124 like I thought. Also the other pulley on the tensioner is 604792. Hope this helps

I had siphoned out as much as I could from the power steering pump. That's what that small hose was at the start of the video. I had talked about it but due to editing to conserve time, that part kinda got edited out. Sorry! But, I just inserted a small dia rubber hose and then ran it down to a pan on the ground.

I ordered mine direct from their website: bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/

I added a description on the video just now. She was abandoned by her mother and was found wandering in a field in eastern Kansas. She was taken to Hope in the Valley Equine Rescue located in Valley Center, KS. They are a volunteer group that is taking good care of Josie

Possibly back in the trailer, and most likely sleeping while she can!

I added a description on the video just now. She was abandoned by her mother and was found wandering in a field in eastern Kansas. She was taken to Hope in the Valley Equine Rescue located in Valley Center, KS. They are a volunteer group that is taking good care of Josie.

Thanks for watching, hopefully it will help you with yours.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

Good input. I typically do look at the connectors when I pull them off just to check for corrosion or burnt wires, etc. Thanks for watching.

Dang that stinks. I was really worried about mine after I changed them but they held up until I sold the car. I don’t know if you bought factory Hyundai solenoids or not but sometimes the ones from autozone and Oreily can fail prematurely. It’s definitely a poor design from Hyundai. I’m now buying Toyota vehicles and so far so good. Fingers crossed 🤞

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching

Glad it helped, thanks for watching.

Yes, I've heard the Redheads are really good as well. I was looking at them before I found the Blue Top gears. I read a lot of reviews on both of them and I found them both to be good. The only reason I went with the Blue Top was because it was $100 less expensive. I didn't plan on keeping my truck for more than a few years and since the blue top had really good reviews, I figured I'd save the 100 bucks. I will say that if I had a newer truck that I was going to keep for 10 yrs or more, I'd probably have gone with the Redhead. Thanks for watching.

@@Roybwatchin Yep, that all makes sense to me and like you I would opt to save the 100 bucks too if not keeping the truck long term. I however made the decision when I bought my truck new in ‘04 that it could quite possibly be the last truck I ever purchased. I’ve invested the $’s for many upgrades for the 6.0 issues and other things for the long term and the truck is still in excellent condition overall. As I mentioned before I’m very happy with the choice in steering gearbox that I have and I know you are too. Stay safe out there and keep on keepin’ on!

I would check all the items I talk about in the beginning of the video. You really need to put truck on stands with both front wheels off the ground slightly and check all the items. If the upper and lower ball joints are not out of grease and bind when you turn the wheel, or the U joints (assuming it's 4x4) are not bound up, and all the steering tie rod ends, links, etc are good, then you likely need to look at the pump. The pumps on these are weak from the factory and I've read that its hard to find a good replacement. Some guys buy new ones and they are worse than the original. So, if you need a new pump, I've heard Napa has a decent one, but I would stay away from the remanufactured ones. Do some online reviews of several until you find one that you trust. I've even heard of guys that buy a factory one from Ford and have had issues. Luckily, the pump isn't that hard to change, but still a pain. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@Roybwatchin I had replaced the entire front end earlier in the summer. Upper and lower ball joints universal joints, tie rod ends, track bar, steering link and damper.

​@@stuartbrock7586another thing to check is the leaf spring bushings.

Yes it did!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Could be a number of things. Was the intake hose torn and that's why you replaced it? The MAF can cause bucking, but so can many other things including one that gets overlooked all the time and that is spark plugs. Depending on how many miles on your car, the spark plugs are only good for around 100 - 150K miles before the electrodes are worn and the gap is too large. This often gets overlooked. Is it throwing any codes, is the check engine light on? Might be good to check the codes if the engine light is on. Good luck!

@Roybwatchin Hey thanks for your reply, it was actually my sparkplugs. My intake hose was torn actually so i had to replace that. But my sparkplugs i got from Autozone just 3 months ago went kaput on me. I actually didn't look there initially because i had changed them a few months ago. But i got new ones and everything is fine now.

No problem 👍