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Sorry but they are the same. Just have to fiddle with it and resist the urge to beat on it too hard. You need the threads when you finally get it through there. Persistance.

@ “Persistence” is the perfect word for sure!

Honestly, I just took them out of the box and installed them. I figured I could adjust them later If I didn't like the setting. I drove it around a little and liked the ride how it was. Didn't really get a chance to play with adjustments to dial it in before it didn't matter anymore. Hurricane!

Thank you!

Hopefully that is what it was. Kinda looked like the basic green stuff. It doesn't really matter any more though. Upcoming video will explain.

The primary thing I would check would be the Idle Control Valve. I would clean it with carbonator cleaner first but may have to replace it.

No, it is "Bright Bronze Metallic" (paint code 966). In German it is called "hellbronze-metallic".

Thank You.

It is a 1966 with a manual transmission. The transmission is a 3 speed top-loader. It use to be column shift but a previous owner converted it to a floor shift, which I wish they hadn't done.

@@C3KPaddock Thanks for your time .... Yep, M3oT can be fun', and is also a additional security level. LoL I also have a club' on the steering wheel, tah slow down' {visual & tangibily} anyone considering busting a window to access ignition & .... ;-)

Based on what I have read, the electronic locking rear differential is open when the electronic lock is not engaged. That is why you don't need the friction additive in the fluid. I might have misspoke at one point in the video and said it was, whoops.

We didn't add any oil this time. We are going to add some oil and dye when we refill it again because the refrigerant leaked out again. These AC systems are a pain when you are chasing leaks!

@@C3KPaddock Thanks for the reply. No leaks yet for me, fingers crossed

I got it from FCP EURO (www.fcpeuro.com). Part # MAH-AD240000S

Yeah, I switched computers and was having trouble figuring out how to change the volume on each track. I've gotta fix it in future videos. Working on a car with your kid is the best thing. Mine is starting to take over and wants to do everything himself. I guess I'm mostly a cameraman and an assistant now.

Yeah, I never did replace those and I also need to pull the alternator off to replace the voltage regulator. This is also a smaller task I can do while I continue to procrastinate dropping the trans-axil to replace torque converter/pump seals.

Nope, it didn't hold up at all.

Yes it is a 352. It was purchased as a rebuilt crate motor about 15 years ago but has less than a 1,000 miles on it.

Thank you. Yes, fluid is pumped back into it from the transmission when the car is running. That is why you have to fill the transmission, then run the car a few seconds, and then top off the fluid again. Repeat until the fluid level is good with the car running.

I just refurbished my front calipers and painted them

Definitely working better since I screwed it back into the dash, but still having issues with a brake light and blinker. I need to put some time into figuring out the problem, but really don't understand what could be wrong when you replace all the wires with OEM harnesses and have the same problem as before. I'm going to need some luck I'm sure.

Why?

@@C3KPaddock that screw isn't for that. It only sets over center adjustment

Yet another tool I need to add to my Christmas list.

Yeah, I figured that out after we did the service on the car. I ordered what FCP Euro recommended before I knew to get 20W50. Owning this car is a learning experience. I will be sure to put that in it next service.

We did a valve adjustment at some point. I think it was after the injectors, but I would have to go back and look to be sure. We did find a few that were too tight and a few that were too loose. Sounded better to us once we were done.

Interesting, I'm going to have to try that. The door handles on the inside are not the best and I plan to replace them soon.

@@C3KPaddock Did you try the door lock?

@@ronniejohnson317 I did and worked like you said. Learn new stuff all the time! Thank you.

I guess you have to expect some broken bolts when you work on old vehicles, but it doesn't make it any less frustrating. Minutes turn into hours so quickly!

It was around $800. Maybe a little less.

That’s not bad for everything. My next issue is finding top dead center and learning how to set the timing. I am not a mechanic.

Me either. I just do research about whatever I need to do and give it a shot. Good luck!

Interesting? Our idle RPM didn't change after we replaced the injectors. I feel like it got a little smoother too. We have put like 2K miles on it since the replacement and still running good.

Thank you. I will definitely look into it and see what options I can find to avoid this problem.

We don't have one, so we didn't. Another tool to buy. Didn't matter though because there is a leak somewhere and it stopped working again. More work to do when summer comes around again.

@@C3KPaddock you can rent it from autozone and get your money back when you return it. You would of figured out that you had a leak if you would of properly done a vacuum . Also since you didn’t you might ruin the compressor and have to replace it too along with the new drier again .

@@chillyE30 Good to know. I wasn't aware that was something you could rent from there. We haven't been running the A/C since it leaked down. Thank you for the tip on the vacuum.

@@C3KPaddock any moisture in the system can corrode and kill the compressor as well as clogging up the system. putting it under vacuum for an hour or so makes all of the moisture in the system evaporate and get evacuated. the drier is there to continually suck up any incidental moisture that could get into the system to protect it, it can only soak up so much so it's kind of a sacrificial part, you'll need to replace it again if you try to get the a/c working again for this summer. it's worth it to get a set of a/c gauges while you're doing this (either renting or you can get them + a vacuum pump from harbor freight for like $150) so you can get a better idea of what's not working in the system. also the hoses in pre-88 E30s are older style (not future-proofed for R134a) so you're going to continually have at least a little leakage

@@Vanya2893 I broke down and took it to a shop a few days after we filmed the video to get the A/C vacuumed and filled properly. It worked great for like a week and then gradually got worse over the next couple weeks until it barely cooled again. I think there is a fitting on the dryer that is leaking. The shop said they did a leak test and it was all good, but when I took it back they said they were going to charge me again to service it. Frustrating!!! I hooked up a gauge and the pressure was way down. Going to have to get the equipment and do it myself I guess.

We love the look too! We also like that it is a great blend of an American Muscle style V8 powertrain, European styling, and German engineering.

What, you don't like mystery?

We haven't purchased any parts directly from Porsche. All out parts have come from "FCP EURO" and "928sRUS" websites. The parts due seem a little cheaper in Europe, but the shipping time and cost would counteract the savings. I'll definitely take any advise you have on where to get quality parts cheapest.

@@C3KPaddock I wrote long comment with names of places where I got spares from and it would not appear here, because YT thinks links, even in obscured form are ads? Just some names of places: partworks (they have also ebay shop and ship worldwide), rosepassion, design911, autodoc

We do like the car and enjoy driving it. That said, we also hope to have a profitable (or at least breakeven) auction experience. If it doesn't meet reserve, then we will definitely enjoy driving it. We also don't know if the "Magnus Walker" signature on the dash will help the value. Kind of a wild car whether people care about that or not. He is a big name in the Porsche community, but probably won't add any value. Plan to enjoy the auction experience and see how things work out.

@@C3KPaddock nice man! I didn’t see the Magnus signature but I doubt that will add any value. Maybe BaT is the way to go bc there’s a US ‘80 automatic with a lot of time left and it’s already at $13.5k! 35xxx miles though. I wish people appreciated how good these cars are.

I bought an 88 S4. I did 90% my own work and I have about 10k in repairs. Love driving it,but I am probably 5k underwater. That might sound bad but remember I have a running driving 5 speed that I have been driving regularly for the past 6 years. 5k in the hole for 6 years of semi daily smiles? I would not trade it. What would the depreciation on a 5 year old 25k car be worth that is now 11 years old?

@@TomMarquis66 Exactly!! It isn't always about the money. "Experiences" are often worth more than money. My son and I are enjoying the repair process and learning with every repair. Building memories!