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I believe that one is a Bernzomatic mini torch (sometimes they are just called "a kitchen torch"). You can find them all over the place on the internet or at your local hardware store. (Personally I don't like the Bernzomatic one because it has a child lock that tires your thumb out. I used to have a no name generic one that was simpler to use, but the tip ended up melting.)

Great to hear! Thank you

I believe in that video there's two - "ruffles and feathers" and "nama-stay the night" by Essie. :)

Please read my full tutorial on my website (basketofblue.com). It has a lot more information (including about clear coats). Thanks!

I think I used brass wire solder (copper solder would also work). They have better color match for the metal.

It doesn't matter much what size it is. The bigger and thicker the longer it lasts. Some people like to make a coil out of copper wire (e.g. 16-12 gauge) Any reputable jewelry supplier will have sheets or wire. Plumbing pipe is not usually recommended (not sure of the reason)

It can happen, it is a very organic process. Weather is a big part of it. Please read the full tutorial on my blog (basketofblue.com) and you will find more info.

Thanks 🤗

You're welcome 😊

You got this!

You don't need to change it for the batch you are making (unless you decide to start from scratch). But I recommend new solution for new pieces.

If you read my blog you will get all the info. I use Protectaclear and there are samples of pieces to show what happens after coating. Yes, it will always dull colors but it depends on which colors.

Wow, thank you!

Thank you! Hope the video is helpful.

It can happen, patina is mysterious! Try again and possibly adjust the amount of ammonia. Sometimes too much fumes grows the patina too quickly or if you leave the piece in for too long. (I've noticed this especially with vinegar) Also, let the patina piece dry completely in room temperature before touching it.

I had some sheets patinated with salt and vinegar (not normal 7% vinegar, but the 35% one) and they came out great. The patina is different, it’s more of a orange/brown color and it doesn’t rub off. I made some lamps for a school project

Thank you. Glad it was helpful!

No, I've only worked with copper. Maybe I'll try that one day!

It was probably 20 gauge. It doesn’t matter that much because you’re building a layer of copper over them.

@@Basketofbluecom cheers for the info. Was thinking about getting some 14 gauge but won’t need to now ☺️

Diamonds are very hard, this equipment would not work for that.

I think you may be referring to building up a base before electroforming? You do that when you need to attach pieces together, or build up a solid base for the copper, for example ring base. If you don’t need to build up any base all you need is a conductive paint that you apply to sections of your piece you want copper to build on. A simple gemstone with a bail doesn’t need any additional base as long as you electroform a thick enough layer of copper.

I use Eurotool Cut Lube to lubricate. Also great for the jewelry saw. :)

I’m not understanding your question. If you mean a different metal then it’s a different process. (You can electroplate with silver or gold, but that’s a different process.)This tutorial is about copper electroforming so the metal is actual copper.

I'm not really sure what you mean. Copper electroforming always results in copper. You may be thinking of silver and gold plating. It is a bit different process and you use a liquid that has gold or silver suspended in it.

Look for a conductive paint for electroforming recipe. There are many out there, I always buy mine and just dilute it as needed. (I believe some are alcohol based, some water based. Mine I dilute with distilled water.)

I assume you mean the texture on the copper surface? That's a very interesting question and in my opinion is a bit mysterious! Many things affect the way the copper forms on the piece - the current, liquid contamination level, time, the shape of your piece and how it is suspended in the liquid... I find that with experimenting you will get a feel on how to achieve different textures. Generally with slower process (long time, low current) you get more interesting texture. Also, when your bath is just contaminated enough you can get interesting textures, but when the bath is Too contaminated they become rough and often ugly. If you start with very clean bath (new liquid or just filtered it) you get smoother and brighter finish. The way the piece is suspended affects where the particles will attach. For example if I make oval pendants that get surrounded with copper (similar to when it is bezel set) you need to turn the piece often or it won't coat evenly and you get bumps on one end. There is a scientific method to calculate current and time, and it relates to texture, but I am not a scientist. (there's a link to the formula in my blog of this tutorial post at Basketofblue.com). In my opinion by experimenting you learn the best on how to get the texture you want.