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Hats off to you sir for getting that mess sorted out and made safe. Well done 👏. I think I would have walked away from that one. That looked like a right pig off a job.

Worth pinning a link to the 'pdf' document mentioned as the first comment. It's not immediately obvious (given the link shortening) which link is the one you meant. Thanks for the video.

90% sure the problem will have started when the smart meter was installed, most meter workers are not given full electrician training so can't legally go into RCD isolators or consumer units. Those RCD isolators can be a pain when they have clamp type connections, always coming loose when disturbed, that's why they need to be clipped in place before changing the meter 😬

A very interesting video. I love my Heatmiser system, fitted it many years ago, over 12 years maybe. Our house is open-plan on the ground floor, using a wet under floor heating (UFH), with 5 or so loops, laid in aluminium spreader plates under oak veneer engineered flooring, it is just one zone. About six years ago I added a conservatory/utility room with wet UFH, laid under screed with a natural stone tiling on top, this is a second zone. Upstairs is a third zone with ordinary radiators. The hot water is a fourth zone. We are both retired and spend a lot of time at home, especially in the winter. Using the app I change the programming daily as we go into and emerge from winter. Each year I come up with a few tweaks that I try out to refine the process, the app is simple enough that this can be done quickly. We live in the SE and thankfully our winters have been mild for the most part, we spend the winter days in relative comfort in the conservatory. I believe I understand my system well as I have fitted it and learnt about it over the years. I would hate to be plonked down in front of a strange, complex system, as you were and told to fix it before the end of the day, great work.

No glands or grommets on switch-fuse, conductors not identified by sleeving (or tape) and black been used for neutral, all ring alarm bells, I wonder what else you will find ?

It took me ages to get my Heatmiser system properly, although in the end it was a lot to do with the manifold recycle/by-pass valve having solder debris in it. Did you use Heatmiser HW timers for the hot water?

Could you talk any slower?

Wow this vid looks like what I need. Just as a rough and dirty estimate… how best to get power to a shed 1 metre from the house, then continue on to a future garden room 9 metres from the house? One cable popping up in the shed, then carrying on to the garden room? Just need sockets and lights in both, and two electric radiators in the garden room. Would 16mm2 cable do the trick?

can you demonstrate how you would work out a payback period calculation for this work I think another content creator worked out around 17 years with battery and no PV do you think this is about right?

I’m sorry, but surely even a customer can see this is an absolute s*** show.

Nice install! What make of box did you use to house the controllers? I’m looking for a large box to do something a bit similar. Thanks!

As an electrical engineer and heating engineer I have never seen worse good luck 👍 sir

Hi, Im enjoying all your Lutron RA2 video's very informative. I have a quick question that you may be able to help me with. I have RA2 installed in my kitchen and I want to add my curtain track to the RA2 control, is this possible? I was looking at installing a Somfy Glydea electric curtain track and motor, is there a way to make this communicate with the RA2 system and controlled via pico switch and app? Look forward to hearing from you.

Thats horrendous, did they turn up on a horse and cart 😂

Thank you for the videos they are very informative, any chance you could share the details of the relay for connecting to the vr71?

Been trying to connect the hub to the charger and this video was really useful. Thanks!

Hi, It is very educational, and learned a lot. I have a small question. I have GIV-HY-5.0 G3 inverter and a Gem120CTM meter. But not able to commission it. Potal not seeing the meter. Use ports 9 and 10 on the meter and the meter port on the inverter is correct. (+ & - are correct on both ends of the cable.) there is output on this twisted cable. But the system not seeing the meter. The meter displays all data such as voltage, download power, current, frequency, and so on. Maybe I require an EM115 meter !!! thanks

I thought that using the VR71 would negate the need for a 10 way wiring centre, seeing that you have a Heatmiser Wiring Centre also Please provide more details on the relay and the VR10 pip sensor you mentioned shows up as either a tank or solar sensor. im sure alot of householders are stumped as to how to get Vaillant wiring centre and UFH wiring centre to work and maximise modulation

Hi mate where does the white one go ? Thanks

Look Forward to the follow up, great vid mate 👍

Good content something different to board changes, hope their is a part 2 would like to see conclusion of this job.

Feel sorry for the guy that has to service that manifold inside that little cabinet

Thanks for the help pal

Hi you said there it’s not possible to extend the ct cable length, is it not possible with Belen ? Is the only option the Dora things, they are soo expensive 😔

Many thanks for more deital and reviews these days. There are many options for a mix system. uhf, not sure which one is the best 1) honeywell 2) Dryton wiser 3) salus smart home 4) Heatmiser

Thanks for your review I wish you slove the issue Which one is the best for mix system underfloor heating and radiators 1) honeywell 2) Dryton wiser 3) salus smart home 4) Heatmiser

My underfloor heating doesn’t go above 20 degrees what could be the problem ?

😂😂 work or hé someone make with this job

Some joint that is!!!! 🤷🏻‍♂️🤦‍♂️

That installation 😵 Rough as, glad they got a proper spark in to sort this. Great content, keep up the good work. 👍🏻

Hi, Interesting video. Just subed you. What reading was you getting at the sockets for the R1+R2? Would this be more than r1+r2/4? I got some high readings from sockets in the past, but useing some switch cleaner on the tester plug brought the reapinds down. I put this down to the contacts being dirty.

Will this control unit work with other branded sauna heaters like Harvia?

Just notice, uh8 wiring box all deep switches for testing are on, that's the problem

I didnt add the door sensor. And now it comes up door open. Is there any way to get it to work without that door sensor installed?

Promo-SM ✅

They are flow meters on the top which measures flow rate per minute not bar pressure 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Hi, love the channel. I wonder if perhaps you could help: a small number of fellow Givenergy Gen2 inverter owners had their inverters fail in the past week or so (relay fault) which now means our systems are not working. We've had absolutely no luck with getting Givenergy to respond with a timely solution so we were wondering if you have any internal contacts at Givenergy you could reach out to on our behalf. Thanks and keep up the good work!

Really informative video. Thanks Paul. I might have to get some of those for my house. 🫣

Nice Video , Thanks

Where are you based?

whats the range like from stats to logic relay box for actuators?

shite work

Crazy how UFH was not separate from upstairs, was never going to work

You say the board was off but the main switch was still up

Hi, don’t suppose you have a guide to the uh4 system, I see this one is a uh8. Doing a self build and not quite sure whether we have everything for a zone. We have a ds1 and a activator, and the pipes/wires. are we missing anything ?

What terminal does the battery management cable go into ?

So are these wireless switches or hardwired?

Nice VID. Tought that the light ZS was 5.87?

Many thanks for this video. Am looking at adding an AC coupled battery to my exisiting Enphase PV solution. Probably late now, but you could have saved teh coinduit by having the data cable enter with the battery cables and then loop out of one of the spare compression glands.

Yikes, I could spend a week working in that garage and still be triggered by it.