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Thanks mate, glad I was able to help.

That’s mate, might be a mic issue

Thanks for the feedback mate, I wonder if anyone else had that problem. I might watch it with headphones on too.

@@sullysshed no worries. Loved the vid mate. Thank you for sharing

@@poerava no worries mate, thanks for watching

Thanks mate, it’s all been a learning curve.

I don’t sorry mate. I looked into it briefly but changed routes so didn’t go any further. They make a kit for hiluxes if you wanted to get an idea of how it’s done.

@@sullysshed No worries. I thought there might have been an option out there for a transfer with a slip yoke, not a flange on the back. I think some jeep transfers people have made a new shaft that would allow for a flanged output. I've got a 4j in my GQ and have put subaru brumby calipers on the rear for the handbrake. While they work I wouldn't trust them. That aside I am stoked to stumble across this channel, doing a great job for a chippy (I'm a brickie) and making things look achievable for most who know how to wield a grinder. I've got project binky to blame for my build

@@bennyjahmin3953 I’ll be swapping the factory transfer case out to a Jackaroo transfer case at some point in the build mate. One of the benefits of it is that it gets rid of the slip yoke.

@@sullysshed Other than putting a hand brake on, is there any other benefit to the flange over the slip yoke? And any other benefits to the jackaroo transfer? They still have some sort of electronic actuator don't they? Just a manual lever for high to low?

If you get the right one it’s gets rid of all the electric actuators and you can get reduction gears for it too.

Hi mate, a couple of reasons. Rope speed, air freespool, reliability/strength and rope capacity are the main advantages. The only advantage the low mount had was that it would fit easily in most bars.

New episode dropped today mate! Cheers

Thanks mate! Definitely give it a crack.

Cheers mate, I’m glad you’re enjoying it!

Thanks heaps mate! Once I get the four link done in the rear I’ll go through and give it all a birthday I think.

Thanks mate!

Cheers mate, thanks for watching!

Thanks mate!

Thanks mate! I’m pretty much winging it. I’m a carpenter by trade which helps with the hand skills. I learnt mostly from reading a lot of 4WD forums back when they were a thing, mainly Pirate4x4 and outerlimits as well as a lot of TH-cam. I’ve also learnt from working with mates who are either mechanics or boilermakers as well. I built a comp truck/offroad race car to different levels over 10 years that has given me the experience to tackle this as a custom project. This is a big reason behind starting the channel for me, if one person learns something from me or it gives them the confidence to give it a crack themselves then I’ll be happy.

Impressive stuff mate, really enjoying the build!

Cheers mate, appreciate the kind words.

4mm 250mpa steel, I would have preferred to use 3mm 350mpa steel but couldn’t find a sheet locally.

The worst ideas I’ve seen, up there with torsion bars.

Thanks legend, I appreciate the kind words!

Thanks mate, I go through all that in EP 1. But yeah triangulated 4 link rear mate.

Thanks mate, I’ll try and include more of that in the next video.

Nah I hadn’t planned to mate, don’t really want to take any work away from Ironhide. They support events locally and are good people so would prefer not to.

Thanks legend!

Thanks for the feedback mate! I’ve been using a Rode Go mic since the start, all the audio is recorded using the same mic, might need a lav mic maybe?

Thanks mate, good news for you then, episode 4 has just gone live tonight! Cheers

Thanks mate!

😘😘😘

😂😂😂😂 60% of the time it works every time

Absolutely, couldn’t believe my luck tbh.

Yeah they really are a terrible idea.

I should be able to run the same GVM as the 80 series

Nah it’s not that much mate. That might be the installed price.

yeah thats installed and engineered

@@sullysshed AHh righo. Yeah $15k is outrageous

@@brettellis3948 I’m not sure I’d say outrageous mate, there is a lot of work involved and people will pay for the convenience of having it done for them.

Cheers mate. Still figuring it all out haha

Thanks mate, I might aim for a bit longer, cheers for the support. I figured it would have to have a drain and fill somewhere, not sure why they don’t make it obvious, haha.

Haha cheers mate, rookie mistake

Hey I’m looking at their kit aswell. Wonder if it’s worth just getting the basic kit and then buying a wrecked or chassis from an 80 series. The kits quite expensive with no steering box etc

@@bonz3580 The kit takes a lot of the thinking out the job I imagine. The next episodes will show the process of the work behind figuring out how to make it all work.

@@sullysshed yeh definitely, might get the basic kit and get my own diff etc

@@bonz3580 That’s the option I would have gone for mate, get the bare basic to take the thinking out of it and get the other bits yourself.

Cheers mate!

😂😂😂

Haha I hear that so often “doesn’t suit my driving style” 😂 translation “I’m a shit driver” I just shake my head and say so change your driving style mate

Thanks mate, it’s a tricky one, I want to make the videos as concise as I can so people don’t get too bored. Haha

😂😂😂

Thank mate, I had planned to do a budget wrap up at the end of the build but I might keep track of it through the build as well. Might try and get that in the next episode. Cheers.

Hey mate, episode 2 is going live today at 5pm QLD time. Not sure what it will cost to be honest mate and could be lots of variables depending on what suspension you choose.

Cheers mate, that's my main motivation for doing the videos really. I have learnt so much from TH-cam and 4WD forums back in the day, if someones gets something out of it that helps them with their build then it's worth it.

@@sullysshed yea that’s it aye, good on you. I’d be interested to know what it will cost you. I’m sure everyone will want to know but good stuff man.

@@bradsta9751, I will certainly do a cost break down at the end. Might even track it through the build too.

Cheers mate! I won’t be using a kit. I’ll be covering a lot more on that in the next couple of episodes.

Looks like a JD! Also interested, I'm in the market

Cheers mate! It's a Tufflift 4 ton clear floor.

Basically a compound of angles is my understanding. Uni joints can only take so much angle before they will slightly bind on every rotation. It may not cause an issue at all or it may vibrate so slightly that it’s not noticeable but you’ll be forever changing uni joints.

@@sullysshed as long as the diff flange and the transfer flange are close to parallel the angle of the unis won’t matter unless they kiss the yoke or flange.

@@sullysshed also awesome job man I can’t wait to see your next vid.

Cheers Dan, yeah I'm following what your saying. If you look at Dana Spicer they reccomend no greater than 7 degree operating angle, thats probably a bit conservitive but even if you say no more than 10 degrees is optimal. The car won't be especially low, so I'm assuming the driveshaft angle will already will already be close to the 10-15 degree mark, I'm just a bit wary of adding in even more angle with misalignment. I'm happy enough to be wrong but it's just one of those problems that is not that hard to avoid if you allow for it during the build process.

@@sullysshed id say they are meaning the yokes no more then 7deg opposing, think of the angle of a lifted 4wd's shaft, its much more then 7deg. Even stock height ones probably are. Are you gunna have a new clip up soon? I'm pumped to see it.

Thanks mate, glad you liked it.