- 6
- 67 546
Dans Doing
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2020
I like to do a lot of stuff, I figured I'd record it.
Volvo 240 will it start?
I got this 1991 Volvo 240 running that had been sitting for at least 2 years! Discovered some not so good things too.
มุมมอง: 205
วีดีโอ
Ford OBS 460 Steering Column Rebuild Part 3
มุมมอง 10K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This is part 3 of rebuilding the steering column in a 1996 Ford F250 XLT with tilt, cruise control, and no air bag. This part focuses on disassembly and fixing the shift tube. Here's Part 1: th-cam.com/video/HzEGjtG3U9g/w-d-xo.html This video series should apply to all Ford OBS trucks and probably many other Ford vehicles. Once you get the airbag stuff off of a vehicle equipped with an air bag,...
Ford OBS 460 - Steering Column Rebuild - Part 2
มุมมอง 13K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This is part 2 of rebuilding the steering column in a 1996 Ford F250 XLT with tilt, cruise control, and no air bag. Here's Part 1: th-cam.com/video/HzEGjtG3U9g/w-d-xo.html This video series should apply to all Ford OBS trucks and probably many other Ford vehicles. Once you get the airbag stuff off of a vehicle equipped with an air bag, it should be identical. Of course, follow your service manu...
Ford OBS 460 - Steering Column Rebuild - Part 1
มุมมอง 32K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This part 1 of rebuilding the steering column in a 1996 Ford F250 XLT with tilt, cruise control, and no air bag. This video series should apply to all Ford OBS trucks and probably many other Ford vehicles. Once you get the airbag stuff off of a vehicle equipped with an air bag, it should be identical. Of course, follow your service manual, don't be stupid, and this is for entertainment only. Se...
1996 - 2005 Chevy Astro / GMC Safari Dash Trim Removal
มุมมอง 8K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This video details the methods to remove the surrounding trim on a 1996-2005 Chevrolet Astro / GMC Safari van, kind of... It's pretty much impossible to do it without breaking it, it's why that trim piece costs $150 plus and is gone from all the JY vans.
Ford OBS 460 - Oil Cooler - Part 1
มุมมอง 4.2K4 ปีที่แล้ว
I'm working on replacing the stock oil cooler that uses coolant to cool the engine oil on a 1996 Ford F250 with an older style air oil cooler from a 1980's truck (maybe van?) 460 (7.5L) Part numbers: Stock adapter- F5TE-6B856-DA Replacement adapter- E7TE-6884 Part 2 put on hold due to COVID.
Shit Dude ! Nice Comedic tare-down.
Dan how do you get the rack gear out from where the key tumbler goes. Mine will not come out
Who can't take it appart by destroying it😢😊
At 2:55 I assume that affects the key turning in the ignition. And if those bearings are shot they make it really rough to turn the ignition over " to run"? Because that is my issue with my 2009 ford e450. Really stiff to turn it over I'm wondering If that whole piece needs to be replaced. Yes I have a new ignition cylinder it turns nicely I cleaned the barrel where it goes. And I'm assuming it is broke somewhere. I have tryed dry lube spray as well. Before I owned it someone tryed to brake into it and screwed with the ignition.
Patient as a pedophile on a school bus. LOL, made me laugh!
Bro you shouldve just spoke! You breathe loud af
Let me know if you understand that we can troubleshoot and we will be educated Nobody knows how to do unless they study very hard on the certain tasks in front of them
Nice video man. Go straight up from the middle of the puddle and you'll see a weird little square platform with a corner cut off. That has your main pump and your filter mounted on top of it. You have a leak at the banjo fitting or one of the hard nylon lines. Might just need to tighten the banjo fitting but probably not. Could be the copper washer on the fitting. If the hard line is broken just cut off the portion that's leaking and replace it with some 1/4" high pressure soft fuel line and a couple hose clamps as the nylon stuff is not easy to work with. Once you have the leaks sorted I'd do however much of a stage 0 tune you're willing to spend on and pull the MAF sensor and clean the inside with some brake cleaner.
thanks, but poor quality !
what lower radiator hose did you use after replacing the factory oil cooler
I think it was from an 80’s Ford f250/350 with a 460. I had to use an adapter, but otherwise it worked perfect
Wanted to see how to remove not destroy dash
This guy doesn't even know what the hell he's doing he doesn't do anything he doesn't show you anything so it goes and get something to drink coffee
Never claimed to ;) read the disclaimer buddy.
What did you used to open the clamp things for reassembly? The ones that make positioning possible
Can u send me part number for parts and where i can get them
It’s in the description
*Does the kit used in this video repair the tilt feature?*
No it doesn’t. The tilt is just some heavy springs and clips. If those are broken you’ll probably need a junkyard column. Should be easy enough to see what’s causing the issue once it’s out/open.
@@Dans_Doing thanks for the response! IDKY tilt wasn't working before, but it seems to be now.🤷
Thank you for your excellant video!. I just replaced my shift tube bushings & it helped immensely, especially when the washer and clip fell out of the front frame hole.
I don’t know why people don’t just talk.
NEVER use an abrasive to clean a bearing seat!
Dan is it possible to replace the lock cylinder rack without total disassembly? Have the lock cylinder out and steering wheel off, but cant seem to pull it out. You stopped your video before you got to that part. Will you post the final assembly video?
You have to take it pretty far apart. I lost the rest of the footage so I won’t be making the rest of the videos unfortunately.
Hi do you have the part number of the lower radiator hose thank you
I can’t remember the exact part numbers, but I did use an adapter. Same hose as @foxboss9 in this video: th-cam.com/video/dLJ-v8vhXqo/w-d-xo.html
Don't any of you guys know how to get that lower actuator out? The whole reason I watched the videos, and you just ignore it.
On the top of the column, under the shift tube, there is a part called the shift pawl that prevents the lower actuator from sliding out. The shift pawl is held in place with a small pin in a difficult spot to drive the pin out. I used a screw driver to force the pin flush with the casting then a drift and hammer to tap the pin out a little further. Once the pin is pushed out you can grab onto it with pliers and pull it out the rest of the way. With the pin out the shift pawl comes out and the actuator will slide out of the tube. Not too difficult to do but take note, or take a picture, of the shift pawl before you remove it as a reference for re-assembly.
Don't any of you guys know how to get that lower actuator out? The whole reason I watched the videos, and you just ignore it.
Don't any of you guys know how to get that lower actuator out? The whole reason I watched the videos, and you just ignore it.
Where is part 4? you didn't show how to get the plastic lockslide out of its channel. it is spring loaded -where is the spring disengaged? your not done yet buddy :)
I lost the footage :( I can’t remember how I got it out.
Part 4, at least for ME: Go to a 'yard and buy as good condition used column as you can find ($75.00 in MY world), then just replace the entire column, which included the steering wheel, air bag, all the bolts, etc. Replace the ignition switch with your old one, then sh*tcan the old column. As Dirty Harry Callahan said: "A man's GOT to know his limitations!"
What a piece of Junk. Stupid Engineering.Probably drunk.
Yeah, piece of crap only lasted 25 years
I don't think it's broken. I think it just sits there and is held in place when the lock cylinder goes in. At least mine did and I was just doing the lock cylinder. Chimes still work so if it did break, it didn't stop it from functioning.
Dude where’s the rest of putting it back together? You know the hardest part?!? I got most of mine back together but I can’t figure out how to compress the last big spring on the top of the steering rod before you start putting the wheel stuff back on
I used zip ties to compress the spring
At 8:09 you talk about the bearing side out. I assume you mean the side where you can see the bearings and the plastic sleeve that holds them in place. Do you know if this definitely is the direction the bearing goes? And should the larger bearing face opposite or towards the inside of the housing. The reason I ask is because when I pulled mine apart, the plastic sleeve was curled up inside my housing. That would mean the large bearing should face inwards to the housing. Thanks for any clarification.
To answer my own question, for anyone else that needs the info. The plastic retainer side of the bearing goes to the inside on all 3 bearings. You should not be able to see that plastic side on any of them. Now, I'm off to fight with the ignition actuator rod and get it all lined up.
11:43 Do you recall if there is a different way to remove that white plastic rod that goes to the ignition, without digging out the green piece covering the ignition switch? That is the only thing holding me up. Also, great idea using zip ties on the tilt spring. 👍
I think I cover it in other videos, but if I recall correctly there’s a small gear under the ignition behind that green piece that interlocks with the ignition rack (the long white piece). That way when you turn the key, the rack moves back and forth. I think you have to remove it.
Thank you!!!!!
I just replaced the upper bearing while the steering colum was still in place. I know you said in the video but im still confused on which way the bearing goes in. Should the side with the plastic retainer be facing out or should the side with the metal be facing out? Right now i have metal facing out (cant see any ball bearings) but steering is still not right. Hoping I dont have to pull and replace lower bearing.
I don’t think it will honestly matter that much in terms of the direction of the bearing, but if I remember right, you want the metal facing out.
Russian method works always best! You made my day!😁
Let me buy some parts of you 😅
Very helpful videos. Please share Part 4.
Nesesito unavan astro del 2000al 2005 tengo 3000 dólares celular 686 106 5971
did the 80-89 filter adapter end up fitting without hitting anything?
it did! It fit perfect.
@@Dans_Doing Awesome! do you know where i could find one or the name of it?
@@MrSmith-oy3hs It's called an oil filter adapter. The part number is in the description of the video. I found mine through a face-book group called 429/460 Big Block Fords.
Are you from the Show Low AZ area? In your first video you said 2 hours from Flagstaff so...
I'm in Phoenix. Always good to hear from another arizonian!
I'm trying to replace the small plastic piece that you stopped right before replacing in the 3rd video I haven't been able to figure out how to get the new piece to slide into the groove inside of the column that you left in
Hey Matt, I'm not sure which plastic piece you're referring to. At the end of the 3rd video I'm replacing the bushings/sleeves for the shift tube. Those are split, and just snap on. Do you mean the plastic rack that the key/ignition moves? I mostly just followed these instructions: www.steeringcolumnservices.com/steering-column-repair-how-to-instructions/ford/ignition-rack05-actuator-replacement-instructions.php I would post the instructions but steering column services is a great company that I'd like to work with again in the future and they're trying to sell the instructions.
@@Dans_Doing I was talking about the plastic rack that but I finally figured out that you have to shave alittle of the outside edge in order to actually get it to slip into the groove that it pushes
@@matttobolaski182 oh ok. I actually pushed out a pin using a punch to get the rack and other assemblies out. It's in the next video I'm editing.
I would love to see the rest of the series
Hey Dan, I think it's Dan, thanks for making this series on rebuilding this steering column. I believe that three quarters through this, I decided to spend the extra $350 more than the kit to just get a rebuilt one instead. This looks like a pain in the butt to try and get right and I don't have a spare vehicle to drive right now. Again, thanks!
Luckily I had a spare vehicle during this process, but I did get it done in one weekend. It is tedious, and not something you want to mess up since it's a critical part of the vehicle. Did you buy the column from steeringcolumnservices.com? Did it work out?
@@Dans_Doing Yes, it worked out just fine. Except for one tiny issue and that was, I should have pulled the steering wheel off while it was still in the truck. It would have saved me a walk down to Napa Auto to purchase a two jaw puller that I swear that I already had in my toolbox. I wasn't going to put the unit back in just so I could drive to the parts house and back. Hahaha!
how did you get the front part of the shaft cover off.... you were messing w/ the white plastic piece looked like you were using a pick to push down...
If you look at part two of the series, I get it off at about 7:25 of that video. It helps to put the tilt lever back in so you can release the bars at the bottom. The reason I had to use a pick is because the bearing had broken and was jammed between the housing and the shaft preventing the shaft from sliding out. Once you get the tilt clamps/bars off the housing, it should slide right off unlike mine.
@@Dans_Doing mine is still in the truck. It's off the tilt springs at the bottom. From what I can tell it's only be held on by/at that plastic piece. I will check again. I may have the same situation as you. I have watched all of the videos just not doing the complete rebuild. Just the front part where you pulled it off. Thank you again. Great video. Love the cup of coffee😄
@@Dans_Doing Dan - thank you again for the video, it greatly helped. I got the front piece off, it took just a little work. Like yours it sustained some mild damage where the bearing seats. The larger bearing was fine but the smaller bearing in the front was destroyed along with the spring behind the retainer clip. Now just waiting for parts to come in. I used a Dremel w/ a wire wheel to clean up the bearing pockets since its aluminum I didnt want to risk damage. the small bearing outer was fused into the pocket and had to use a cutting wheel in multiple spots to cut thru and hammer the bearing until it finally came out (along w/ some penetrate). Some damage but cleaned up w/ the wire wheel. I am also replacing the bushings under the shifter and the shifter boot. hopefully it goes back together. Hope this video helps other people and what I posted above. take your time and document w/ photos..
Just because a man has tools does not mean he knows how to use them. Please stop making videos if you don't know what your doing. Thank you
It went together great and works perfectly. Not sure what feedback you're providing. Please read my disclaimers in all my videos.
Dan what were the symptoms of your steering was it heavy feeling and not centering before it almost locked up
If I grabbed the steering wheel, I could move it in different directions, up down left and right. Lots of grinding and it wasn't smooth at all.
Dude I really want to see how do this you have spent 10 minutes jacking with the parts you got damn
@@daniellinehan7164 good point. I was trying to give an overview of all the parts in the kit. I start dismantling roughly @7:00
I lost the rest of the footage so I won’t be making the rest of the series, I apologize. I highly recommend going to the steering column company in the description of this video and buy their instructions and parts.
I cant believe how expensive the Ford Steering Column Full Overhaul Kit is $235.15. Yes please post the rest of the series I've subscribed and would like to see the rest.
@@mikeflores2010 yeah it was pricey but well worth it. The parts were almost all Motorcraft parts, the instructions were extremely well done, and the support was good. They were helpful and quick to respond. It's also cheaper than buying a rebuilt column.
Do you recall what size torx those gold bolts are?
The big ones are T30, the smaller ones are either T15 or T20.
The small piece that fell out was for the key in door open beeper.
Thanks for the videos Dan
This was a good one. Glad you helped me figure it out
Thanks man