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Froehner Restorations
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 11 ส.ค. 2021
As a society, we've become wasters. Something wears out, and we trash it rather than fix it. Part of this is how poorly most things today are made, but also how cheap they are to replace. Largely though, it's a lack of "fixer" skill-sets that are no longer being passed down from generation to generation.
But in the last couple of decades, we're seeing a shift and this trend is starting to swing the other way. This channel is for the "makers" and the "fixers"--or those that want to be.
The Froehner Family loves fixing things up and this is where you can look over our shoulders and see what we do, and how we do it.
John has a background as a Master ASE Automotive Technician and loves to tinker.
John M. (Michael) loves creating things with metal, wood, or leather and is rapidly mastering these skills.
And Rose loves to help and is quickly learning how to fix things herself.
We hope you enjoy our channel.
But in the last couple of decades, we're seeing a shift and this trend is starting to swing the other way. This channel is for the "makers" and the "fixers"--or those that want to be.
The Froehner Family loves fixing things up and this is where you can look over our shoulders and see what we do, and how we do it.
John has a background as a Master ASE Automotive Technician and loves to tinker.
John M. (Michael) loves creating things with metal, wood, or leather and is rapidly mastering these skills.
And Rose loves to help and is quickly learning how to fix things herself.
We hope you enjoy our channel.
Small Appliance Fan Repair
If you have a small appliance that has a noisy or sticking fan, you may be able to repair it. In this video I show how I repaired the fan on our wine fridge.
มุมมอง: 99
วีดีโอ
GM and Chevy Small Block Starter Upgrades: 1972 Chevy C10 Starter Repair
มุมมอง 23K2 ปีที่แล้ว
UPDATE 11/2024: No issues since this upgrade!!! :-) The Green Truck is finally getting an upgraded starting system!!! While parts store starters used to last 3-5 years, I'm now replacing them yearly. The last NAPA starter lasted less than a year! In this video I'll be making 3 upgrades to our 1972 C10 starting system to hopefully take care of this once and for all! I don't want to break down ov...
Happy Birthday Green Truck! 1972 C10 Updates
มุมมอง 1.1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Our 1972 Chevy C10, The Green Truck, turns 50! Some quick updates on why our channel has been so quite. Here's one of the reasons: www.lockbreakerescapes.com And here's one of the reasons I got off my butt and did an update. Thanks to Rusty Wrenches for the recent follow and great videos: th-cam.com/users/RustyWrenches
The Green Truck: Final Drive & Rubber vs Polyurethane Body Mounts, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 4.1K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this final video of restoring the cab and interior of our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup, I go over the difference in ride quality between OEM style rubber body mounts vs polyurethane body mounts. Hope to dig into the next phase of restoring the Green Truck soon... Parts: Body Mount Kit www.usa1industries.com/product.php?productid=21068&cat=&page=1 Body Filler amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAKFUCI/ref=ppx...
The Green Truck, Restored Interior, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 25K3 ปีที่แล้ว
It's finally done! At least this part of restoring the Green Truck. In this video I walk through everything we ended up doing on restoring and updating the interior on our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup. www.usa1industries.com/ www.lmctruck.com/chevrolet www.66autocolor.com/
The Green Truck: Seat Restoration, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 5K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video we FINALLY get to the main event... To the part that kicked off this runaway project the seat! This broken seat is what turned into pretty much a full cab restoration. Follow along as we make this seat new again in our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup. It's longer than most of our video, but full of useful tidbits for you. Enjoy! Parts: Seat: www.usa1industries.com/1969-72-chevy-gmc-truck-ho...
The Green Truck: Full Tank Cover Installation, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 3.6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I show you how to prep and install the cardboard fuel tank cover on a 1967-1972 Chevy C10 pickup. This cover didn't come with any instructions and was tricky to figure out how it went together and fit into our truck. I couldn't find ANY info on the internet, let alone a video, on how to do this, so here you go. I figured it out as best I could. If you have any additional tips on t...
The Green Truck: Carpet Installation, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 13K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I show you how to install the floor insulation and carpet on our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup. I also talk about gluing the insulation down vs not and why. Enjoy! Insulation: www.usa1industries.com/1967-72-chevy-gmc-truck-sound-deadner-set-w-foam-pad.html Carpet: www.usa1industries.com/1967-72-chevy-gmc-truck-molded-carpet-small-hump-w-in-cab-gas-tank.html Foil Tape: www.homedepot.com/p/...
The Green Truck: Instrument Cluster Restoration, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 7K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I cover restoring an instrument cluster in a 1967-1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck. Here's the gauge needle paint that worked best: www.hipoparts.com/fluorescent-speedo-gauge-needle-restoration-paint/
The Green Truck: Dash Pad Installation, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 3K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this short video, Rose and I show you how to install the dash pad on our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup. I had initially decided not to do this video, but added it after all because there were some tips worth passing along to others.. So it may seem a little out of order. Enjoy! Dash pad: www.usa1industries.com/1967-72-chevy-gmc-oe-vinyl-dash-pad-black-only.html
The Green Truck: Kick Panel Vent Restoration, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 1.6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video we show you how to restore the kick panel vents in our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck with some new seals from LMC truck. Now they work like new! LMC Truck vent seal kit: www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-chevy-gmc/cb-1967-72-kick-panel-set-and-air-vent-seals SIL-Glyde: smile.amazon.com/AGS-BK8-Brake-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B00HFL7EDS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=YKA4YHQFOYA4&dchild=1&keywords=sil glyde brake l...
The Green Truck: Paint Prep 1, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 2.1K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, Rose and I prep and apply the body filler inside the cab of our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck. Here's the products we used: Evercoat Body Filler: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAKFUCI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Evercoat Hardener: amazon.com/gp/product/B000P70V2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Green Truck: Paint Prep 2, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 9793 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, Rose and sand and prep the body filler for paint inside the cab of our 1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck. Evercoat 440 Express pinhole filler" amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZABEZA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Green Truck: Paint Prep 3, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 7203 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, Rose and I make the finish the final prep for painting the cab on the 1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck. High Teck 7800 Surface Prep: (ordered through 66autocolor.com, they called it Final Clean Wax and Grease Remover) www.66autocolor.com/products/final-clean-wax-and-grease-remover-xl-quart-size or www.highteck.com/wipeout-surface-prep-wax-grease-remover.html Crystal Clear Tack Clothes...
The Green Truck: Body Mount Installation Tips, 1972 Chevy C10
มุมมอง 10K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video we'll give some tips on how to install new body mounts on a 1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck, as well as talk about rubber vs polyurethane truck body mounts. USA body mount kit: www.usa1industries.com/product.php?productid=21068&cat=&page=1
The Green Truck: Floor Repairs, POR 15 Product Review
มุมมอง 1.5K3 ปีที่แล้ว
The Green Truck: Floor Repairs, POR 15 Product Review
The Green Truck: Cab Disassembly (1972 Chevy C10)
มุมมอง 8623 ปีที่แล้ว
The Green Truck: Cab Disassembly (1972 Chevy C10)
you never said if it worked?
Nope, hadn't used it much when I made the video. But it's been working great! No issues since upgrading.
Do yourself a favor. Put the heatshield back on the starter. That'll save you from having to replace it every few years. It originally came with one, but they get rusty and eventually a mechanic or whoever ends up throwing it out, thinking it's not necessary. So what happens? Starters only last a few years because they get heat soaked. Can't tell you how many times I see this problem and everyone thinks it's a bad starter design when it's just missing the heat shield.
Agreed, it makes a huge difference. I used a fiberglass wrap on the new one for this very reason. But it's also getting hard to find good starters at parts houses, another reason for the upgrade.
Would you consider adding the details of all the products you used?
Hello! I saw your original comment about the grey parts. I think you answered your own question, but just in case: I didn't polish or paint the outside bezel, I replace it. This was the only new part I used in restoring this cluster. Details of products used: - Bezel came from LMC Truck - The needle paint is listed above - The "clear coat" for the needles was a high end nail polish clear coat. Not sure of the brand, just don't use cheap stuff. - The plastic lens was restored using Meguiar's Headlight kit: www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiars-ultimate-headlight-restoration-kit-perfect-headlight-repair-kit-remove Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
OK, I ordered a new one because the old one was more like a rag, than a piece of cardboard. The Repair Manual by Chevy simply states in Chapter 8 page 8-2: "Step 2, under Fuel Tank: "Remove tank cover if so equipped". No install-info. They must NOT place a lot of importance on the item. I would think (my old Mechanic mind at work) that the cover is simply to protect the tank from the metal parts of the seat from rubbing against and causing a leak in the tank. So, as long as it is covering the tank, it would make no difference if it is right side up or not.
It's mostly their attempt at cleaning it up aesthetically as you can see part of the tank at all times, and most of it when the seat is forward. You could simply paint it a matte black and get the same result. I think I've even seen fancy carpet versions to really make it look nice, but that seems like overkill. LOL But yeah, not very important for function. Thanks for watching!
Good explanation!
You're lucky I bought two Mini starters and neither one came with instructions or installation bolt kit with shields I had to purchase bolts and shim kit separately...
Great video. Thanks for sharing your hard work.👍👍❤
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it--hope it was helpful.
Awesome video very simple and straightforward.
Thanks for watching!
Add Chevy's all my life I never have any trouble with starters ever stop on a cheap starter to put a good starter in there for an AC Delco a regular Chevy starter you won't have no problems with it add 40 to pickup trucks never had a problem with starter ever
I’m about to tackle it. Found your video so I could see what kind of struggle bus it would be. Mine came with a diagram but no real instructions. Thanks bud
You bet! Be sure to check the comment from gotammit below for more info.
Good job. Thank you for sharing
You bet! Thanks for watching. 🙂
Link or part number for seat cover?
Sorry for the delayed reply. I went to get one or the other for you and couldn't find either. Apparently USA1 Industries has narrowed down to only carrying parts for 73-87 square bodies. Bummer, they had good quality parts for these. ☹
Beautiful truck but you forget to show or mention the important thing. The motor ,a beautiful truck a nice motor go together.
I'm sure that'll be a feature in upcoming videos. But it has the original 350 that has been rebuilt once due to an overheat shortly after my mom bought it. Still runs great.
Talks to much and skips the instalation part..
My Drivers side end spring and support spring are broken just like yours. Where can i get replacements? any help would be appreciated...
LMC Truck or USA1 Industries both have them I believe. Thanks fro watching and good luck!
I just installed the LMC supplied 3 point seat belts in my 71 C10 and am happy with them.
Thanks! I saw they had a different version now and was curious about them.
The 1 screw for the armrest on both sides are stripped on mines . It was hell replacing the door locks thru the speaker hole
You convinced me
LOL! Glad to hear! Thanks for watching. 🙂
Hello. Im new to car repairs. What type and size bolt did you use to mount remote selonoid to chasis? Thanks
If memory serves, I just used a self tapping sheet metal screw. May have come in the kit. You just want something that will properly secure it and create a good ground.
Taper/no taper doesn't worry me, but different shoulder lengths do, as does the low grade steel. I'd like the cab to stay attached at all times, so... grade 8 or better. I'd rather spot treat the original bolts for rust than put shiny new garbage in as shipped with this bushing kit. They shipped what: grade 5? Imbeciles. I also find poor value in the undersized diameter fender washers - bushings expand a little under compression and the washer serves as a wear point [with a dab of silicone grease hopefully]. An undersized diameter washer will shorten bushing life because higher PSI values are constantly applied. One of the things I like to help preserve bushing bolts [where they sit inside a sleeve] is to coat the shoulder with sp400 [or similar preservative] as the waxy finish it dries to keeps moisture at bay. Lasts a good long time where mechanically protected. I've seen some ugly failures in the past where after many decades in service, the bolt head and nut seemed fine [on account of being painted], but... the shoulder wasted away and finally failed under load.
Wow, lot of good info! I like the idea of coating the rubber. I can't speak to the long term quality of the new rubber, but it's way better than 40 year old rubber. Or the overly hard "upgraded" ones I put in a decade ago. Polyurethane does not make good body mounts! As far as the hardware, I agree and talk about that specifically in the video. I cleaned and treated most of the original bolts and washers as the only had a little surface rust and were just fine. And way better quality. Thanks for watching!
Does your truck still get heat soak after upgrades?
Seems to be just fine so far. So much better with the new setup!
Great video! Thanks! I have a mini beverage cooler that I bought and it got left subject to renovation dust and I’m sure it just needs cleaned and lubricated.
Hope it's helpful!
Do you have any tips for removing the front body mounts under the radiator? Ive replaced the under cab mounts but can't seem to get the front mounts to budge.
If memory serves, you have two options: 1) loosen all of the body mounts so the cab can raise with the front clip 2) remove the front clip from the frame and cab, or maybe even just loosen from both. Just removing the bolts under the radiator mount is not enough as you still have the weight of everything on them and trying to lift the radiator support won't work unless the cab is loose to allow it to move up with the support. It's all tied together. Hope that makes sense and helps!
Thank you! Yeah I did lift the cab and front clip from the body but seems like these things are seized on. I’ll spry them and let it sit for a few weeks.
@@justkause Yeah, if they've never been done the rubber could be fused to the metal. You may have to chisel them out of there. Good luck!
U need to ditch that cheap crappy st wheel and get an original period correct steering wheel.
It's on the list. LOL. I'm torn between another aftermarket that I really like and would go well with the gauges, and the new reproductions that are 15" instead of the original 17". It would look period correct, without being so huge.
Yep u got that bottom bushing upside down,,I have the same bushing. Kit n there completely different from the original,I had a problem with the core support crush sleeve not fitting right.
I am hating the polyurethane body mounts that I thought were better than the original rubber ones. BIG mistake on my part!!! Ride is terrible and you feel every bump and every noise vibrates throughout the cab. Even the somewhat worn OEM mounts were smoother and more comfortable.
Agreed, they're terrible. Same with polyurethane suspension components. They take a lot more abuse, but the vibration and harshness just isn't worth it.
The interior looks good, Looks period correct with some nice upgrades. You did well.
Thanks! That was my intent. I love the look of these trucks inside and out and prefer a more period look than modernizing everything.
I have a 67 C -10 long bed , Crate engine , 4 bble Elderbrock , dual exhaust . It runs well , but needs love and care . I need to sell it to renovate my old farmhouse . My wife has M S , and her health depends on country living . Text me , and I'll make a deal with you ! Maranatha !
You got bubbles in their floor panels because you shook por 15 up have done that many times works best if you stir it
Thanks for the tip!
How to put in tac
Que buen trabajo se pasaron lo mejor congratulechon.saludos desde chile.
You cant deliver enough amps with that bitty wire
That yellow wire is too thin
Not sure what you mean. The yellow wire is the trigger wire and does not carry a load. That's why it's so thin from GM. But the new setup had been working pretty good!
@@froehnerrestorations that yellow wire kicks the solenoid in. Is it hooked to a, relay? Coz, when volts go down AMPS go up & vice versa. Imho, that wire looks insufficient.
There is a trigger wire and the 3rd wire is the ballast bypass to put 12v to distributor for cold weather starting.
If you have problems with the stock style starter 2 to 3 starters a year wich for me 210.00 dollars a year high torque min starter so far has went 3 years and still running strong
Yep, that's my understanding and I'm hoping it solves the issue for me as well!
1:48 I love that your MOM had a gun rack.. think EVERY truck needs a gun rack.. in some form or fashion... ;)
Good looking truck
You've shown me a LOT of what I needed to know for this part of MY project.. THANK YOU!! Much Love!!! I would have liked to have seen how you dealt with the seat springs that were sagging.. to me a picture is worth a 100 words.
The design of these springs tend to stretch or break. I didn't have any stretched ones that I recall, but did have a broken end one. Most of my issues were the old foam. I'm glad this video helped for your project!
5:08 Weird mic noise is static from your nylon shoulder strap.. I'd be willing to bet your cab isn't properly grounded to the frame with grounding straps.
It's the mic. It does that every once in a while. Doesn't help it was right on the seat belt. LOL
I love it! You've done a BANG up job so far. I've got a 1/2 ton 1972 Chevy truck okra white okra color scheme LWB with tilt telescope column and 3/4 ton overload leaf springs that came as an option making it what's called a HEAVY HALF... it was an old farm truck with saddle tanks and GO FAST A/C that I drove for most of my 25 years active duty... now I'm giving her some love in the form a frame up restoration including a new modern drive line... 5.3L EFI and 4L60 with air. I'm curious though why you didn't relocate the fuel tank when doing your restoration.. you could have maintained the LOOK of a tank in the cab but for safety reasons moved it to the rear between the frame rails.
Thanks for the encouragement. The fuel tank may still get relocated at some point, I keeping swinging back and forth on that. I let it be for now as this was supposed to just be a new seat and carpet...well, we see how quickly that escalated. 🙂 I hope to see some videos of your truck coming together! It sounds like a unique one and well worth the effort.
I'm 99% sure that is being installed upside down
Yeah, I think you may be right. One of these days I need to take another look and do an update...
@@froehnerrestorationsI don’t think it’s upside down , just not very well made . Mine looks like this also I used some sticky Velcro on back to hold in place
POR15 is a moisture cure urethane. You are correct, you can’t see it....... the stuff promotes corrosion. Best left in the can. The metal prep is a good product. You’re better off using epoxy for adhesion and sealing of marginally prepared surfaces. A surface that is sealed and pinhole free is not going to rust.
I wish my floor & kick panels looked that good...my floor, rockers, kick panels & firewall are all swiss cheese...I'm in for a lot of welding when I start body work...I may replace the whole floor, haven't decided yet...I'd like to save as much original iron as I can, but once it gets past a certain point, they make a full floor replacement, I'm seriously considering it...
Yeah, it's unfortunate when they get that far gone. So hard to decide what to save.
Awesome! Another long bed aficionado! That's worth a sub! I'm building a long bed too...I was raised in long beds & love them...nothing sexier than a long pickup truck...my dad bought my 1969 brand new off the lot, my grandfather drove it for years before he gave it back to my dad & now I have it...I drove mine for several years, but I'm now doing a total off the frame job on it now...thanks for not ruining this gorgeous long bed with the short bed conversion...👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Thanks! Agreed, the long bed seems to be underrated. Glad to hear about your restoration!
I also need to cut out some of my lower kick panel on my ‘84. You mentioned that the kick panel was a little “tricky“ due to it going down into some other things. Would you mind elaborating a little on that? Thanks for posting the video!
It's were I think 3 panels all join together and are spot welded. It's tricky because if it gets down far enough it affects those panels. At that point the ideal fix would be to separate the panels, repair individually, and spot weld back together. This would mean taking the cab off and putting in on a rotisserie and taking that section of the cab apart. Way more than I could do with what I have. I lucked out and was just able to get at what I needed. Hope that clarifies it and helps! :)
The kick panel extends down, laps onto the inner rocker.... and the rocker panel laps from the face side (with the fender off)
Great looking seat upon completion.
That looks like it'd be easier to take the seats out to. Oh boy my 71 K5 is going to be fun doing this
Yeah, it was nice to have the extra room having the seat out.
Oh crap that's what I used was the polyurethane energy.
Woops. Maybe you'll have better luck with them.
Would have liked to see video before the bushings and after the bushings ride. Kudos to the video though. I should have done the same thing to my 71 K5. I'm really anxious to get it on the road again to see what the bushings do. Almost done with the lift
I have to do this exact project in a week or two. It's the last thing needed to finish the restoration of the interior on my 68 GMC C20. Thanks for the great video. Should be a good reference.
Hope it helps and good luck on your C20. Such great trucks!