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Yeah for real!! What the hell??

Hi Eli, I fabricated it out of 1/2" Aluminum plate and 1/2" thick rubber from Amazon, using cardboard templates and cut both materials on a sub-$100 chinese bandsaw. Then I drilled and tapped holes for an air hose quick connector (also using cheap NPT taps from Harbor Freight). Good luck with your motor!

Agreed. Although Toyota is slow to innovate, aren't free of engine problems, and the interiors (bar Lexus) are super basic. That being said, my next SUV will be a Toyota.

Jake Thomas I agree but...In 1968 I bought a Mini. The first time I went out in driving rain the car stopped. When I started to investigate someone told me to dry the coil and when driving in rain I should put a shield in front of the coil to stop the rain getting to it. I wound have minded but, came on, the Mini was designed in Birmingham. Didn’t the designers know that it rains a lot in Brum? Another time I was driving from Tamworth to Leicester. When I started the weather was fine but when I approached Hincley it started to snow. Of course the snow covered the coil and I had to abandon the car. Fortunately I milk float gave me a lift. To obviate this people used cooking aluminium foil as a shield. Trouble was that if you forgot to to take it off the water started to overheat. The car was very good but it had a lot of niggly things. Like the starter motor jamming. So you had to put it in forth gear and rock it forward and backward. Mind you-now I wish I kept it.

Jake Thomas That Miny had a mini cooper engine with a fantastic dashboard and servo assisted brakes. Very rare in those days. It was British racing green with lowered suspensions. I sold it for for 150 pounds. I drive a Toyota hibrid now. Out of this world.

Cheers!

Angled/chamfered side faces FRONT/radiator. Original LR parts have chamfer, aftermarket parts may not have chamfer - see this thread: landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/oil-pump-repair-kit-40174/page3/

The recommended sleeve are called "top-hat" sleeves. They have a flange at the top that sits in a groove that you would have to have machined into the top of the piston. The sleeves also have an o-ring at the bottom. The designs prevents the sleeves from slipping downwards and any future block coolant leak from reaching the cylinder head. The best place to get them from is actually England, even though the sleeves are made in California. It was less expensive and 1-2 days to get them from England via DHL than from the actual manufacturer in California. The website is: turnerengineering.co.uk. Good luck

Because the leaks sometimes don't show until you test at a higher PSI and with heat too (from halogen work lights).

Still daily-driving with this motor in 90F daily temperature for over 5 years. Only issue after top-hat liner and TIG welding repair was a leaking freeze-plug. You're right about the poor casting, these blocks were made with Buick 215 castings from the 60's sold to Land Rover who took total displacement to 280 cubic inches (4.6L). This led to thin areas where the cylinder head bolt holes are = leaks/cracks.

@@jakethomas2283 Jake Thomas Ahhh you're a lucky boy! 😊 - I know two chaps who had the same problem, and both of their engines still ended up leaking two or so years down the line! 😔 Both were 4.2L.. I've had a liner replaced in an otherwise perfectly good 3.5L once, but that was due to "negligent storage".. Water had rotted one sleeve 🧐 - but I had bought the block for £75 so what the hell.. Everything else was fine.. Total of £220 to have it sleeved, line honed, decked and tolerance checked.. Meh..

@@MrClassiccarenthusia the best remedy for this problem is to buy a Buick 350. Marvel's hero is not called Aluminum Man by no reason.

i had the same question, why he left that plastic ring.. :(

See this video: th-cam.com/video/ZeolFSL8JbY/w-d-xo.html. Go to Minute 5:50 of the video to see the camshaft sensor installation. The camshaft sensor is located under the water pump. If you are trying to find the camshaft sensor with the engine in the truck, you'll need to remove the cooling fan (which is mounted to the water pump) and then the sensor will be underneath the water pump as show in the above video. The cooling fan will be covered/protected by the fan shroud (which has 4 Philips head screws holding the shroud to the radiator shroud), so you'll have to remove the shroud to even see the fan to be able to remove the fan.

Yes, but the aluminum block and the cast-iron sleeves/liners have different rates of expansion and heat transfer properties. So in the end, you can heat up the aluminum block and the liners can be removed by hand - this is not possible without heating up the block. When you install new liners, they sit in a freezer for a while and the block can be heated up, that will make the installation process even easier than removal.

@@jakethomas2283 or pour liquid nitrogen on them just before install.

Yea, you shouldn't have any issues - I think some years had an oil cooler, but you could just swap parts as needed between the 2 - they are all based on the Buick 215 small block motors from the 1950's anyways - all Land Rover did was increase the displacement, but they bought all the rights and molds from Buick I believe.

Jake Thomas I just saw the other video with the leaking block and I hope I don't have that problem.I just spent $2,500 on this Landrover decided to do an engine flush because it didn't have any oil pressure and now all this is happening so I was just thinking about either putting in my 2001 Land Rover engine in like you said... Thanks a lot for that comment..or I have a couple 1996 to 99 Range Rover Motors laying around I'm just trying to get this truck ready for winter and trying to find the best option possible. I don't need all the horsepower /torque on this going back and forth to work I wish I could find on the internet what year engines I can fit in the 03/04 instead of hassling you... LOL... I just noticed that you said something about the beval on the Rings going down on your pump gears.I was trying to figure out if I installed the pump gears correctly maybe that could be an issue I have low oil pressure. and if that's the case now I gotta figure out why I have a leaking block or white smoke coming out the exhaust

I was looking at your video and you said something about the bevel facing down.. it looks like both sides of your ring had the same bevel is there really a difference because I couldn't tell the difference in your video... I guess I'll be taking the pump off once again and checking the bearings and see if they spun

@@jorgepizarro3327 The video on the link I loaded explains that the narrow passages where the water pump mounts could cause a water leak so if you have a small leak near the oil pump housing then perhaps a new gasket with some permatex grey gasket sealant would help. th-cam.com/video/3NLoDcyiBnE/w-d-xo.html Also, if the leak there them maybe injecting permatex into that area would push enough in to seal the issue.

@@jakethomas2283 Does the 2003 Range Rover have a engine cut off sensor to kill the engine when the oil pump fails? I'm looking at one for sale for $1200 but the owner says it cuts off in seconds but when he cranks the valve train is noisy but that's due to it sitting for 6 months and little to no oil circulation. I see nothing thus far about a cut off sensor but it makes sense though to save the engine. Thanks

I replied to your comment in my other video. 2004 should have less oil pressure issues. However, I would try to replace the head gasket - just download the factory service manual for free - Google "RAVE Land Rover Discovery II" and follow the procedure. For about $150 you can buy a Victor Reinz head gasket kit online, complete with all the little extra seals and NEW cylinder head bolts. You could probably have the cylinder heads out of the car in 3-4 hours if it is your first time. If you want to remove the engine completely, that should take about a whole day (at least it took me that long). With a used engine you could have a cracked block - your blown head gasket may actually be a cracked block (it happened to me).

2004 is the year they finally fixed the oil pump issues. If you changed the oil pump, you are capable of changing the head gasket - for $140 you can get a complete Victor-Reinz kit with new cylinder head bolts from Miami British (miamibritish.com/shop/land-rover-head-gasket-kit-bolts-discovery-i-range-cl-vr/). A used engine will cost that much in shipping alone. Unfortunately, you may remove the cylinder heads on your original block and discover a leak in the interior cylinders like I did (3/4/5/6) (th-cam.com/video/zlRkbeY7_IY/w-d-xo.html) which would indicate a cracked block and need for top-hat liners (Turner Engineering in UK good supplier). I bought a used 2003 and thought it had a head gasket leak, but I found it was actually a cracked block (they usually crack near the cylinder head threaded bolt holes). With buying a used engine it may have a cracked block too, so you kind of either bite the bullet with the block you have or risk a used one also having a crack. Really, it is a crapshoot either way, if you have a healthy budget just get a remanufactured block, I can recommend Turner Engineering in the UK.

Consider yourself lucky! Better safe than sorry though. You can't go wrong installing an Oil Pressure Gauge in the cabin though. Check out some of the Land Rover forums, I installed a Digital GlowShift and have had no issues. I also added a Glowshift Water Temp gauge, an UltraGauge will show water temperature too, but it won't read voltage or oil pressure.

Jake Thomas I just did the oil flush and now I can't even get a oil pressure reading. I don't know if the line is clogged or what I'm going to drop the oil pan tonight when I get home and check it out and if it's not clogged I don't know what else to do.... I had low oil pressure before the flush and I've clean doall the sludge before I put the engine flush in and then after 2 flushes I put fresh oil 15/49 and changed the filter and now I get no oil pressure

If you had low oil pressure before, then that changes things - I thought you were doing a preventative change, like I did. Your low oil pressure may be due to something blocking the screen of the oil pickup tube. Another issue could be you have an affected block with the bad front timing cover - what happened was that there was a batch of bad front timing covers from the factory - the alignment pins were just a little bit off and that would cause the pump gears to prematurely wear and eventually cause low oil pressure and failure of the engine. So, if you check your oil pan for sludge and you don't find any, and nothing is blocking the oil pickup tube screen, then you may have a mis-aligned front timing cover. A potential solution would be to remove the alignment pins or simply widen the holes the alignment pins go into. This would allow the timing cover to properly line up, as some VINs are affected - check online for the list of affected VINs. The engines with the affected VINs would usually only last 50,000 miles before the engine would be replaced. I hope your issue is just a blocked oil passage. Please double check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge hooked into one of the factory-plugged ports on the bottom of the timing chain/oil pump cover, if you are going off of your LOW OIL PRESSURE light, then you may have a bad sensor, so check with a mechanical oil pressure sensor first. Did you pack the oil pump with vaseline/grease before starting the engine so you weren't starting the pump dry - it could seize without lubrication and then you would have no oil pressure at all.

Jake Thomas I did exactly what you did in the video and afterwards I had flush the engine and then cleaned out the oil pan Which did have sludge in it I put new oil in it and a new oil filter and thicker oil thinking it would help it would start out at 20 pounds of pressure and then dropped down to 4

well I got all the bearings out except for the main one I've heard that one doesnt really goes bad but the other 4 are shot to hell. I can see copper on the edges of them now I'm going to take the cover off to get to the front I am so tired.. but then again it's getting easier to work on every time

Well, they are stretch/torque-to-yield bolts and that is what the Buick engineers, who designed the original 215 block the Land Rover engine is based on, recommend. If you don't tighten, you may or may not develop a leak in the future. I don't know because I followed the instructions in the official Land Rover Discovery manual - download it for free online - search RAVE Land Rover Discovery II and you should find a PDF.

basically, they are expansion bolts. they act like a spring and keep torque during heat up and cool down of the engine. just like a spring, they do lose tension over time which is why you should always replace them with new ones when replacing the gaskets.failure to do them to spec means you just wasted time and money and it's not a question of if the gaskets will fail but. how far you get from your shop before they do. the initial ft/lb torque is to seat the gasket or "mesh " it to the head and the block. the final 90 degree turns is to secure the heads to the block with out placing unwanted torque to any random spot on the head while at the same time making sure all the bolts are tight and secure.

Ha. Funny. I wanted to make sure it was well-lubed as it starts dry.

and 2 minutes worth of tightening oil filter housing bolts.

jflandrvr00 😂😂😂😂😂😂

The bolts are torqued in a specific order, download the FREE official Land Rover Discovery II manual, called the RAVE. The torque is set at 15 ft-lbs/20.3 Nm, then you tighten all an extra 90 degrees, then tighten all another 90 degrees. So it is a 3 step tightening process for each bolt.

~$650 shipped for new top-hat liners, valve shims, cam plug, block freeze plugs from Turner Engineering in the UK shipped DHL to USA. $520 for boring cylinders/installing sleeves/honing sleeves to pistons/deck block surface. $200 for honing main bearings/polishing crankshaft/installing cam bearings (I ended up removing afterwards and installing new Buick 215 ones with the tool Lisle sells)/cleaning block/honing cylinders (this was before I found leak). I also installed all new piston rods, lifters, and a bunch of other parts, so it was probably $2,000 (estimate) in total. I have an Excel with all the truck build costs, but don't have it separated by engine/interior/electrical, etc.

I'm surprised you have to import liners from the UK to fit a 1960s Buick V8...

The Buick block was iron, it didn't need liners. Land Rover ruined the engine design by casting it out of aluminum.

@@Bread996 That is not correct, the Buick design was originally aluminium but the way they cast the blocks around the liners gave a high amount of casting rejects, when Rover bought the design they merely cast the blocks and fitted the liners retrospectively.

I followed a Mercedes forum post. I have the Mercedes factory manual on a CD, but have to use an old XP laptop to use it, so I just trusted the forum.

boris lizz

Hasn't leaked yet, going on 3.5 years....The new block freeze plugs DID leak coolant though and I used Permatex Indian shellac gasket compound the first time. No other leaks though beside the freeze plugs.

+Audfile It was just a quick video for a Mercedes forum response. I have more videos showing replacement of the water pump, brake pads + rotors, spark plugs, DIY wheel alignment, alternator bearing, leather seat backs, etc. I haven't uploaded them due to laziness. Jet fan is a huge Harbor Freight shop fan because....Florida summer, non-conditioned garage.

+Riza Khan Because you can forget which bolts or order you went in. It is just a precaution to avoid missed bolts.

When working the installed engine, it’s way easier to have the bolts marked.....especially for the 2nd set of 90 degrees.

+watahyahknow I TIG welded the holes and then installed top-hat liners from TurnerEngineering in the UK (actually USA made sleeves, but was cheaper and quicker to order from UK).

interesting , was looking intoo a manufacturer closer to europe myself , will look intoo that one thank you ...... oh darn their landrover only

Такие дыры они делаются или как?

No, after the initial 15ft-lbs torquing, I switched from a torque wrench to a long-handle 1/2" drive ratchet (www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-extendable-ratchet-62311.html) for leverage for the remaining two 90 degree torquing processes.

duane lloyd you ever get that E350 belt back on the right track? I'm having the same problem on my 07 e350. I would appreciate your reply

It was the idler puller.

+Tom Kay No leaks and going on 2 years. I did have coolant leaking from block freeze plugs, so replaced them and no leaks now.

Yeah it's fine. Rear main seal is leaking now. Victor Reinz garbage...