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Always happy to help!!

@@bennimotlatsi8901 lol yes. It’s so annoying repair and I find this type of fridge is 5 times more difficult than a regular SubZeros. There is no room inside to bend a copper line, and it’s inside the insulation. But as a tech, I can’t run from jobs and yes, I always have challenges with small fridges )))

I had an older compressor which was removed from a fridge, so I don't have the part number. but make sure the compressor you use for pumping purposes, only will be used for the rest of its life. you cannot install that compressor on any other fridges. Compressors like the cheapest Frigidaire probably will be the best. They are all made by Embraco. A lighter weight is better. I know a tech, who uses the smallest compressor from mini-fridges. It just takes longer to pump. So my advise, get a regular fridge, but not too old a compressor. The suction is better in newer ones

Thanks!

Thank you !!

Hello. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number recordings.

Thank you !!

Thank you for watching !!

@@robertcaparelli3535 hahah. Yes I do it for faster and not touch it by mistake. I had a bad experience in the past when I got distracted and grabbed the joint. For some areas actually it’s useful not to damage insulation and paint from the evap coil. Usually when I braze brand new evap coil, painted parts closer to the brazing spot keep smoking with bad odor inside the house

@@allaustinrepairs2054 thx for clarifying

@@allaustinrepairs2054 I'm in the heating and air conditioning business I tried to stay away from refrigeration stuff but I have to do that job at my house because I have the same sub-zero fridge. It's leaking I've been topping it up with automotive 12A gas wirh dye. I was even going to try a leak sealer

@@allaustinrepairs2054 I need to find a sealer that's capillary tube safe

@@robertcaparelli3535 sealants sometimes don’t work. I guess depends on a hole that somewhere in the system. In my case I can’t risk it, since this customer had like 7 subzero units and very rich, it’s not like I care about his money, I just want to be professional. Adding sealant might leak or might fix it. And customer doesn’t care about the repair cost. So I just replace all the parts. And also we have one year warranty, so I don’t want to come back again for a recall.

You don’t have to pull out the unit since there is no access from the side or the backside of the unit, the only time you want to pull it out, if you want to place it on something higher to make it easier on your knees. I prefer to do repairs on customers place and it’s faster for me to complete the repair. Total for the repair depends, somewhere from $1700-$2300. This is most companies charge for the repairs. Most subzeros have built in panels installed, and kitchen looks nicer. Even advising customers to buy a new unit, kinda downs t make sense. For every this type of the repair, we have to arrange our schedule and come back for the installation, which took me 4 hours to complete. I spent like 20 minutes of that making the video lol. But yeah, you give customer an estimate, customer will shop around and they will make a decision. As for me, the repair is much cheaper. I hope I answered your question

​@@acrepaircenter9961 thanks for the lightning fast response! In terms of my question about replacement, I guess i'm concerned that the cost of repairs to such an old unit may continue to pile up since 1) other parts that haven't been replaced may start failing, and 2) more importantly - depending on the work of the repairperson, they may actually introduce more problems down the line (because they're incompetent or on-purpose. (As you showed, the previous filter replacement used off brand parts, but more importantly, they didn't put everything back properly, perhaps leading to the leak(s) that lead to you being called a few years/months later!). There are so many repairpersons/shops taking advantage of homeowners (esp those they perceive to be able to afford large repair bills) who may not understand the systems. To get someone trustworthy and diligent like yourself is a shot-in-the-dark, as opposed to the norm. So, from a long-term investment perspective, it would almost seem that if the fridge is extremely old, it may be better to replace with a new model from the factory (ID-27R in this instance) which may be more energy-efficient and have new warranties, than to take a chance getting a dishonest repairperson who'll take advantage of the situation (replace more parts than needed or take longer than needed). Even if the repair was done well, no repairperson is going to offer a factory-level warranty on the work, so you're taking a huge chance that the unit could break down again. For this particular unit, the homeowner must've paid nearly or more than the price of a new unit with the two known repairs, and they still have basically a 20+yr old unit, at least for many of the other components that haven't yet been replaced. So yeah... while $1.7k-$2.3k sounds like a 'deal' compared to a new unit... that price hardly takes the total costs into consideration. Sorry for the sentiment.. we've just seen so so many dishonest repairpeople, it's really sad.

They live outside the city, kinda a bit far and they have few big dogs running in and out all the time. Honestly as a tech I got used to all kind of stuff and even didn’t pay attention until you mentioned it ))

You will make a great technician for the researches and repairs you did on your fridge my friend )). Great job !!

I feel good every time when my videos help someone out there, and I am glad it helped you !! Thanks for watching !!

Agree on breaking those plastic tabs. I will warm it up with a hair dryer a bit before removing it .

@@paulpatt5481 That is a good idea. Never thought about that.

Glad the video helped someone out there !!!

You probably have the same board. If you pay attention, there is a line in the middle of the board. It’s actually two pieces together and you have to brake it but be careful not to damage the harness connecting them.

Yes. Those two board have a line in between and must be separated before installing

It was low on Freon. I repair so many of subzeros. Restricted kinda still has Freon in the system. This one didn’t. And compressor pump will do the job. I think, learned from other respectable techs in life and on the internet, you pull -28 psi it should be ok. Mine does -28psi. What else do you need. Just get a newer compressor and don’t be afraid of doing extra steps with the repair.

A vacuum pump has 2 stages for pulling deep vacuums PSI has nothing to do with a vacuum that’s pull rate only Microns is what you have to observe Sub zero would not approve your evacuation procedure Get a micron gauge and connect it to your set up Moisture is your enemy I really like Sub Zero it’s built to more a commercial standard and consumers certainly pay a lot for it. So professional service with the correct tools is to be expected

You can use vacuum pressure unit conversion and compare PSI to Microns. The regular compressor can be used to vacuum the system. But it has to be a dedicated compressor for vacuum purposes since with all the contaminations from the systems you recover freon, and the compressor cannot be installed in the future on any new refrigerators. It has to be only for vacuuming purposes. This is not me, but it was approved by tech support at Viking as well. With Sub-Zero I cleared this question a while ago. I just had a chance to call Viking the other day and asked this question. Regarding the moisture, it will be anyway in the system, we have to install a new filter dryer, and the filter dryer must be replaced with any sealed system repair, no matter the age of the unit.

I have a double door Hisense and a side by side Haier. Both around 1.5yrs old and with r600a and inverter compressors. Both failed in the current Heat-wave. Gas leaked. Am trying to fix the double-door Hisense. Used an old compressor for the vacuum. But the running pressure was -20 psi. Ambient temp is 35 c So went and bought a vacuum pump 2cfm Did a vacuum for 25mins and refilled the gas by psi. Filled in upto 35psi standing pressure and started it, after 2hrs The running pressure is again -20psi 😢 I think it might be a restriction How to confirm?

@@RitinPali Hi. Yes, it could be a restriction. Or it could be a freon leak. You need to get a pressure reading on the high side where the filter dryer is. If it's also -20 psi on the high side, you have an internal leak. Sealed systems have up to 5 years warranty on parts so I recommend calling the manufacturer and letting the repair tech do the job. But you have to pay for the labor which is expensive for this type of repairs

Typically I turn the tank upside down, then the Freon will be in a liquid form. Use my weight I charge exactly how much it needs Freon. Shut the tank off and then turn the unit on. But on this video I realized my weight doesn’t work and I charged the Freon without weight and it takes a very long time. When tank stays straight, the Freon grows as a gas, so I used gas. I didn’t want to overcharge it. I don’t like charging this way.

R-134A is not a blended refrigerant so it will not fractionate because 134 is only 134A May be charged liquid or vapor. All 400 series gases or blends and have to be charged liquid

@@randomrefrigeration4564 for 134a it doesn’t matter you charge liquid or gas. Even with the tech support of subzero I spoke about it. Nothing wrong with either way. Liquid is by weight and it’s faster way to charge.

@@acrepaircenter9961 that’s exactly what I said in my comment liquid or vapor doesn’t matter with 134A it’s not a blend I’m sorry you refrigeration knowledge is very superficial

Yes. Personally I don’t understand the price compare to the size. Too expensive !!

They are 5000 dollars. I need to repair mine.

I am glad the video helped !!

Thank You !!

Yes. I actually fix subzero. I live in Austin Texas area. If you live close to Austin please let me know, I can stop by to check out your fridge.

I am in NY (Nassau county). Would you be able to recommend someone that can do this job near me?@@acrepaircenter9961

Yes I understand. Most people refuse the repair. Just make sure you do not purchase another LG or Kenmore Elite. They are the same

@@acrepaircenter9961 Yes when my compressor died I googled LG and realized they suck. So no more LG fridges that's for sure and I'll skip Kenmore as well. My repair guy did mention about LGs not being reliable

I am glad you didn’t need any parts. Those elements are so expensive

Sorry for the late response, I know one thing that igniter has to be original Wolf igniter. You cannot use any other igniters. Probably the screen above the igniter is not allowing the gas to ignite. Other than that I do not think of any other issues. I always call tech support of Wolf and its free for anyone to call. I would love to know what was the issue in your situation.

I am glad I helped someone with my video !!!

The best place and only place Great Plains appliance parts. They sell OEM subzero parts and typically it’s the cheapest place to purchase parts.