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Thanks for your comment and glad it was beneficial for you!

This particular job was printed at 8-Pass (Quality mode), which is equivalent to 11 square metres per hour.

More of a HobNobs fan?

No the TrueVIS MG Series is UV LED. The chassis is similar to some of the older Solvent Printers though.

UV ink does have an odour, much like Solvent ink. I couldn’t say how this compares against other brands as I haven’t sat in the room with them, but there is a smell and we would still recommend placing the Printer in a room where the air is being turned over and circulated.

@@granthamsgt Thanks for the reply. What is your opinion on using this as a main window and wall vinyl printing printer? Do you think the odour will last couple of days after appliying the vinyl to an indoor ? as an example, if you get an indoor decoration job for a nursery can you apply it the next day of printing? Will there be a smell? is it safe? how long will the smell stay if well ventilated.

I see the Roland MG / LG being an ideal solution for vinyl and window graphics. The odour does decline as time passes and when cured, it actually meets the requirements of EN-71 Toy Safety. I would recommend arranging samples using some of your own artwork and materials to get a real impression of the odour and suitability for your clients. If you’re based in the UK, this is something we would be able to assist with. You can contact us via sales@granthams.co.uk.

The VG3 uses Solvent ink, which we would still recommend should be allowed to gas-off for 24 hours. This is recommended before cutting, applying or laminating. You may have seen reports of outgassing in as little as six hours, which is possible, but this has only been guaranteed on Avery Dennison medias. We know there are many people in the industry that aren’t in a position to wait until the following day, but whether there are consequences to this will depend on the substrate and how much ink has gone down. If you cut too early, you run the risk of the material curling / contracting and if you laminate too early the film may not adhere correctly and could fail (sometimes not even noticed until the following weeks). If you can afford to wait, leaving the prints 24 hours would be the recommendation.

Either would be suitable for wrapping - they both have the flexibility necessary for a full wrap. The only consideration I would point out is that Solvent ink does have an increased colour gamut / vibrancy, especially if you opt for an 8-colour configuration. This is often preferred if you need to hit particular Pantone references and corporate Logos. For example, many of our clients print Motocross graphics and prefer Solvent for achieving KTM Orange and Kawasaki Green.

@@granthamsgt Greetings. I'm interested in this for MX graphics specifically as well... Since the AP doesn't print white, you'd have to rely on the media being white correct? Without white, what if you were to print on holographic media? Have you seen this before and how did it work out? Thanks!

​@@antzm6464 Yes, your target applications are going to be predominantly white, but you could print on holographic media as long as it's a light shade (and also certified to take Resin ink). The standard colours (CMYK) in all Printers is transparent while White ink is opaque. This means that printing without White ink allows your graphics to take on the finish of the holographic media better, while White ink would create a mask. If you print on a dark material, your standard colours will not be visible without the addition of White. This video we put together explains it a little better. th-cam.com/video/lnPShTNCCSA/w-d-xo.html

@@granthamsgt Awesome thank you for that detailed information. The video is great 👌

The material is often referred to as Static Cling or Self-Cling Window Film.

Not personally - Metamark do a Metallised Film (Metamark MI-BS) that's Latex certified, but I haven't tried it on the new 4th Generation Latex yet. The difficulty with some of the more specialised films like Chrome / Holographic is finding a product with a matching profile. I'd say these types of application are more typical with UV ink, but there may be sources out there I'm not aware of!

Thanks for the comment and glad to hear you liked the video! We don't have any content on setting up Sandwich mode, but it might be worth checking out IT Supplies - th-cam.com/video/jhvP5XILZKc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Fq6TrvqCfh6uOfNB

Latex can handle fine text and achieve very small characters well, but it ultimately comes down to what you’re trying to achieve. Latex isn’t capable of getting the same level of detail you can expect on a Photographic Aqueous Printer or for the likes of leaflets / business cards / small-format Posters, but it’s usually enough for stickers and labels, as well as large-format signage (that’ll be viewed at distance anyway).

The new Roland MG Series (the direct replacement for this model) can be equipped with an Extension Table, which allows you to run rigid sheets up to a maximum of 1.0mm thick, so based on this it's definitely a possibility.

@@granthamsgt is MG series any good? What are turnaround compared to solvent printer? (Ive seen your calculations resin vs eco solvent?) where uv printer stands in there?

@@recrafty8572 - it ultimately depends what you want to get out of a Printer. Each technology has its own advantages. For the MG, the main selling points would surround the white ink, instant cure, cold curing and low running costs. It doesn’t have production speed, but the LG would be an alternative to this, which is much faster. We don’t tend to recommend Solvent for white ink due to the high running costs, reduced speed and additional maintenance, however, nothing comes close to the vibrancy and quality of Solvent ink, which makes it great for vehicle graphics and motocross. That said, it’s recommended that you leave Solvent to cure over 24 hours before you cut, laminate or apply in order to get the best results and longevity. Resin / Latex also benefits from instant cure ink and the main selling point is that it’s odourless with major environmental benefits compared to Solvent and UV - as you’d expect, this can tick a lot of boxes for certain clients. Up to now, Roland Resin doesn’t offer a white ink option. In terms of cost analysis, UV will be fairly similar to Solvent but will be much cheaper to run when you account for White ink as well as power consumption. If you’re UK-based, feel free to drop me an email with what you’re looking for and I can break it down further. - Jamie Reader sales@granthams.co.uk

Hi Peter - the take-up reel is in use. This was only attached once the Printer had run a good length so we weren't wasting media. There are sections where the media does end up reaching the floor, but this is due to the slack required for achieving the contour cut (which wouldn't happen if the cut paths were smaller, but in this case the cut paths were over a metre in length).

UV ink has a consistent matte finish without any additional varnish or layers. The gloss was then achieved with Spot Varnish applied on top of the print. 😊

Thanks, we appreciate the comment! 😊

These were printed on Metamark MD-WF (Printable Frost) - granthams.co.uk/collections/metamark-product-range/products/metamark-md-wf-digital-window-frost

why the contour cut before print, is it have to do with the take up reel or shrinkage? Also did each file cut first then print? I have this exact print and love it but just trying to work out some kinks.@@granthamsgt

Cut then Print is all to do with avoiding possible shrinkage. The take-up reel would've handled Print then Cut no problem, however, the cut path needed to go through ink, so there's an increased risk of curling / shrinking if we cut immediately after print. The reason for the feature is simply to allow the operator complete a job in a single automated process, without having to go back to it the following day and finish it (or run the risk of doing something wrong and having to start from scratch again) and also giving you the opportunity to send a job out same-day (granted, I'd still prefer to let the print 'breathe' for a while before I packaged it up).

It's ideal for small batches, which I'd say 100 small decals would fall under nicely. For quantities like that I've always run them without registration marks anyway, even when running print then cut, and have yet to experience alignment issues on the new TrueVIS Series.

I see users printing then cutting through the decal and backing paper into a custom shape immediately after printing. cutting into a bleed color will you get edge curl? if you do experience edge curl whats the benefit of a print cut machine if you have to remove the print let is dry then reinstall print and then cut? thanks mike @@granthamsgt

@@jamr9420 Hi Mike - yes, cutting into ink immediately after printing will most likely cause the vinyl to curl. Sometimes you can get away with cutting immediately if you’re working to a white border / bleed around the ink instead, but unless you leave the ink to de-gas as per the manufacturers guidance (in most cases it’s 24 hours) you could still experience shrink and curling issues depending on the level of ink that’s gone down. The benefit of an integrated Printer / Cutter is a reduced initial investment and less footprint compared to a separate Printer and Vinyl Cutter. If you have the space and budget though, two separate machines will always be the most productive.

Hi - the MKII has been superseded by the new MKIIe, which retails for £21,195 + VAT.

Hi Jay - I'm fairly confident you could technically print UV ink to a DTF Film, but it couldn't be used for the same purpose. DTF film requires a specific toner or garment ink and as far as I'm aware, there are no DTF films that support UV ink at this time.