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@@aquenture it can. Takes some practice to get the technique down. Switched solar cure resin recently which helps - hanging it in a UV booth takes the cure time to 5 min.

@@California_Drifts 🙏

@@ScootsMcPoot I hear ya. Grain is such a personal thing.

@EGWguitars absolutely, that's why I didn't want you to think I was dissing it. Definitely wasn't. It's a beautiful looking guitar already

@ not at all. Appreciate your feed back 🤘

actually i followed this and its wrong, i went back to the product diagram and it worked. probably ur demo os kinda reverse

@@yousocrazy1199 it can work either way. Depends on the orientation of the switch and which lugs you use.

@@EGWguitars yah i figured, this video help actually, i was actually have no idea what i was looking at the switch, until i saw this video. thanks

The wood was 3d rendered by a tree. So yes?

That guitar was 2:1 fast cure total boat epoxy. good stuff and great for structural, but for grainfill ive moved to UV cure resin. Can get a lot more done in 5 min cure time than 48 hours.

@@EGWguitars it helps a lot thank you

@@TIMOTHYVILLALBA-14 this is how we do it now. th-cam.com/video/NU8jz7fvn6M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vJE4dhk68sX0BQZr

Well... without diving into the baritone vs bass debate.... it's strung in standard guitar tuning from low E at 41.2 Hz. I love how he makes that voicing work.

Good question. In this configuration, the ZIVSIX is strung from 84-24.

Appreciate it. It was super fun to build, exciting to deliver, and mind-blowing to watch as he played it as if he was already familiar with it.

@@cjgsicknote uh oh…got a broken guitfiddle?

@EGWguitars couple of cracks in my old takamine's cedar top, along the grain, coming from both sides of the bridge, you know the ones!. And another crack just in from the lower bout an inch in from the bound edge. I've retired it until I can get it cleated up or diagnosed professionally at least. Taken the tension off and popped it in its case for now. Bought an eastman e10d-tc to replace it which I've admittedly fallen in love with big style but my old tak is my old tak man!!!

Those little tells are always fun! Sorry for missing your comment! Thanks for your comment!

@@sbrave not every 3 way is the same, but the vast majority of imports use this one. Your PRS likely uses a different switch, unless it’s an SE

@@EGWguitars I have an SE, with a 3 way, that looks very much like this with the lugs all in a row

After a few re-wires, I finally got it, (each pickup just gets wired to one lug) and damn, if the pickup is one lug off, it will only work in it's position, but not in the middle, when both pickups should be combined. This was a big help, thx again!!

@@sbrave nice work!

Because it is what the customer wants!

Thank you 🙏 it’s one of my absolute favorite builds. Aaron was even so cool as to let me borrow it in January to take around NAMM on my first year. Man…. I was nervous on those planes!

Just a guitar the customer had blocked the trem with a socket. I dig it.

GnR nitetrain

Sorry for missing your comment. I apparently missed a bunch of notifications. You got it figured out then?

@@EGWguitars Yeah I mapped it out. manually, and that was enough, but seeing the insides makes it much easier to understand. Thanks!

@@tweakrr99 awesome!

Sorry for missing your comment. I apparently missed a bunch of notifications. You figure out your switch?

@@EGWguitars Hey EGW - you have just given me flashbacks reminding me of that issue! It was a nightmare! Because I was connecting Tonerider pickups, even the boss of the company, Andrew, got on the case! (Tonerider are great). He rang me in person! But all to no avail. In the end I got a Kaish one and that wired up with no problem at all. Perhaps the original one was faulty, but I think I may have missed something. The Kaish one just wired up logically - there was no head-scratching necessary! But both switches were less than £10.00, so I just put it down to a learning experience - I didn't break the bank sorting it out. My new Resonator from Harley Benton is a different matter.....

Sorry I missed your comment. appreciate the kind words.

LTDs are great!

It’s definitely a little mind bending at first until you start to “see it”… but it’s all familiarity and repetition. There’s lots of really complex setups then still confuse me. If you want a nightmare, look at Les Paul Jimmy page wiring. Hooooooo boy.

Without seeing the wiring that sounds like in the middle position, the two pick ups are out of phase with each other. The first thing I would try with the information I have is flipping the polarity of the bridge pick up

What kind of measuring gauge is that and where do I get one

@@stevenhirsekorn3444 it’s a notched straight edge. Stew Mac has them, or many places on Amazon for cheaper. Just check and make sure they are in fact straight if you go with a cheaper one.

@@stevenhirsekorn3444the digital gauge is a stew mac nut slotting gauge. www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-nuts-and-saddles/digital-nut-slotting-gauge/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=%7C+GOO+%7C+SHOP+%7C+NBR+%7C+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwz42xBhB9EiwA48pT792tHxq5z8Ro_aZG_mBXIdrMJ1utU_sXcAkuERC-L0TOvn515Fi0fBoCQK0QAvD_BwE

@@EGWguitars hey thank you I really appreciate it

@@stevenhirsekorn3444 anytime!

That would be awesome. Dont get sucked in! LOL

I mean… it’s a spectrum 😂

You’re welcome!

That’s amazing man. Thank you. 🙏

That likely means that you’ve soldered the bridge wire to the wrong lug on the opposite side. Send me a pic and I’ll take a look There’s also the possibility that you’re using a slightly different switch. Most of them are the same, but they can vary. The point of the video was to show how they work… but it won’t be correct 100% of the time .

@@EGWguitars sent it to your instagram

Output CAN mean that, but it really just means output. In this case, output means to the volume pot. Signal starts at pickups, goes to the switch, then to volume and tone, final output to jack. The lugs are soldered together because with this kind of switch you have to use both sides in order to get the middle position to blend the signals of neck and bridge. One side is used for neck and neck middle, one for bridge and bridge middle, and they are both output to volume. Does that help?

@@EGWguitars I get that, I just want to make sure of how to treat each lug

@@byronmakesnoise gotcha Assuming you have the same switch: Lugs 1,2 bridge (or neck) Lug 3 DO NOT USE Lug 4,5 output Lug 6 DO NOT USE Lug 7,8 neck (or bridge) Or you can opt to use 2,3 and 6,7 and not use 1 and 8. (I think that’s how I spelled it out in the video but don’t remember) All depends on how you use the switch. You just have to be consistent.

@@EGWguitars understood. Will let you know how it goes

@@byronmakesnoise 🤘🤘🤘

Thank you 🙏

I’m not understanding your question

Sure man. So first of all, unless you’re a natural, this is truly a practice builds experience thing. And a good cut and buff is dependent not only on time, patience, and skill…. But on the quality of everything that came before. The wood prep The finish application And a lot of people have a lot of different techniques. Many people advocate starting at 600 grit and moving up. I don’t. It’s way too easy to burn through. That’s me. I start at 1000 and work the guitar evenly and lightly until all the shiny spots (the low spots) are gone. Then, or even just before, i move to 1500. Then I do a final pass at 2000. Then buff at medium compound. The then fine. I would highly recommend just doing some practice runs on scrap before diving into a guitar. But I didn’t even take that advice. Lol