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No, you leave the ammonia test badge on for the duration of the QT process to make sure there is no ammonia spikes.

93 gallon marineland cube 30x30x24

@@douglassmith4403 I’m asking cause I want to put a Tomini Tang in my Waterbox 90.3 which is really a 60 gallon display 36x20x21

Raymond Olivares yes I took 4 days to bring up to therapeutic levels. It’s safe to bring copper levels up to 1.00 then slowly up to 2.0. Many say 1.75 but that leaves a low margin for error. I also use copper power and a Hanna copper checker. Works great.

The 8000 pump has 2110 gallons per hour. I recommend nothing less than 10X turn over per hour. So this pump would be good to 200 gallons if you ran it at 100%. I don't run any pump at 100% so I oversize my pump and run it between 50-75%. My tank is 93 gallons plus sump.

@@unclefreshreef4318 so how is it going? still good performance? did you have to clean it in between??

Nyshil ROY I clean it every 6 months. I also use the same pump for my mixing station and instant ocean loads it up with brown junk. That pump gets cleaned every 1-2 months. They have always worked great for me.

Mr Spoonz my luck a snail would be taking a nap right over it 😂😂😂

Monk's Reef's I have run 3 of them and a 10k and all of them have been quiet. Best pump for the money!

AquaticFury thats a sweet deal. I’m now a wholesaler of fish and coral and that’s way under cost. The fish is either sick or has been there a long time and they are trying to get rid of it.

Uncle Fresh Reef hi I can assure you the flame angels fish are very healthy they get hundreds in every day it’s just the fact that I live in Hawaii. Yellow tangs are $17.50 and they have hundreds Potters Angels are only $25 all butterfly fish are sold for less then $15 and the most expensive fish are fish shipped to Hawaii from Florida like Royal gramma $32. All different dwarf angles it doesn’t matter sell for under $25 size don’t matter. Every flame angel goes through my lfs before it reaches the whole salers. They are just overpriced in the mainland because of shipping

AquaticFury yes that makes a lot more sense now. I’ll send you my next order order can you deliver? LOL

John Hendrickson I actually used the the Tunze supplied black line and connected it to a check valve fitting. Then I used 1/4 inch RODI line direct to the Kalk Stirrer inlet. Highly recommend a check valve and make sure to keep a replacement they go bad.

Here is a link: www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-inline-check-valve-1-4-x-1-4-push-connect.html

AMusicalPsychosis no issues what so ever. I will never build a wood stand for me again. These welded stands are so much nicer and way stronger.

@@unclefreshreef4318 Did you ever skin it? I stumbled across your channel cause I have a 24x24x18 45 g that I'm going to be doing a planted freshwater tank in. I had unreasonably over engineered my first steel stand design. Yours looks much more simple and I'll probably go more your direction with my build.

AMusicalPsychosis I got lazy and never did anything fancy. I used Velcro and some white laminated particle board. Worked surprisingly well. Allows me to take off all panels quickly and easily for full access lol

inventoryking yes I still have him. Terrorizes the other fish and eats like a pig. Lol

Uncle Fresh Reef thanks for the reply. I am thinking of getting one. I would be adding 4-5 Tangs at once so maybe that will help.

inventoryking let me know how it goes. You have a YT channel?

Uncle Fresh Reef will do. Yes I do. It’s this one. I post alot

Let me know what you think of my channel.

inventoryking ya I like it. It’s been doing great. I switched to BRS pharma kalkwasser and it is really nice in that it mixes fast and has very low smoke or dust when adding it to the stirrer but I have found that after two weeks my ph just drops. I clean and add new kalk and it goes back up to over 8. The standard grade kalk seems to more gradually loose its potency instead of all at once like the pharma grade does. Otherwise it’s been great 👍🏻

Tijs 93 gallon marineland Cube DT and 10 gallon QT tank.

@@unclefreshreef4318 thanks for your answer!

Stephen Hess they ended up doing fine. I removed the flame angel and put him in an acclimation box and then released him at night. Releasing at night when the tang was sleeping allowed the smaller faster flame angel to find hiding spots. The tang could not catch the angel and eventually gave up lol.

@@unclefreshreef4318 Awesome to hear! Thanks for the quick reply!

Hi Fresh thanks for the comment. So this video is over a year old now and a lot has happened and I have some updated information coming out in a new video soon. I have even opened up my own Fish and Coral business specializing in pre quarantined fish. So what I can tell you is every fish is different. But when it comes to blue tangs or any tangs in general I do recommend copper if anything is presenting itself. I do not pretreat fish with copper any longer. I keep them in observation longer to be sure. So with blue tangs I have had lots of issues resulting in the need of copper. First I do not use and recommend cuprimine. I use Copper Power (chelated not ionic) and I also use the hanna copper checker. I have not lost a fish using this method. I also still use a seachem ammonia badge as ammonia tests wont be accurate with copper. I have found in my experience that using a HOB filter with precycled biomedia is WAY better than a sponge filter. It is very cheap for media and I always keep some in my main display sump cycling. So when I am done I throw away the copper bio media and sponge. I have not had any ammonia issues. I recommend doing water changes and doing a 2 gallon water change on a 10 gallon tank is cheap and easy. Just mix it up in a 5 gallon bucket. At my store I dont even break down copper tanks, I do water changes and get the copper levels down and use them for future tangs and other non copper sensitive fish. I have no luck with copper on angels or wrasse. I do however treat every fish with prazipro as I see tons of worms and intestinal stuff happening. Hope this helps, this is how I do it and not necessarily how everyone else does it. Make sure you use the hanna copper checker is my only really strong recommendation. It's critical that you maintain therapeutic levels and not overdose.

Ah thanks for the quick reply. So using some bio media from my main tank will that reduce my need to do water changes in the qt? Doesn’t a sponge filter help anyways? And you mentioned no luck qt angel fish and wrasse?

@@pokemonpearlmaster Bio Media has significantly more surface area than sponge material to grow the bacteria needed to consume ammonia.Nitrite and Nitrate. So more surface area equals more real estate for beneficial bacteria to grow. That being said your colony will always be as big as the demand you put against it. So if you have 1 fish, the bacteria level will adjust to the bioload that the one fish creates. If you add a second fish the bioload obviously increases. so will your need for bacteria. But you dont have that bacteria instantly and thats where your "spike" comes from and why you need to do a water change. Then the bacteria catches up to the bioload and stabilizes. Hopefully that makes sense. So long term ceramic spheres can house more bacteria and hence make water changes less frequent in a QT, but does not eliminate them. LAstly, Angels and wrasse are very sensitive to Copper. I have had no luck with it so I stopped using it. I do tank transfer method or hypo salinity for these. fish. Thankfully they dont have the same susceptibility to parasites that tangs do so I see it less often. They do get internal issues so I use prazi on all fish.

that makes so much sense! thanks for taking the time to explain it to me. So just buy some bio spheres online and dump it in my sump? what about those yellow brick looking things? do they help with the bacteria. I have those sitting in my tank since they said it helps with nitrates and phosphate. Also when you say that no luck with angels and wrasses do you mean they died? currently my two tangs blue and yellow have ice all over, but eat and act normal. flame angel has some ich on tail but it keeps disappearing. I have been using medic in the past and it helped so I ordered some medic by poppy lab since I dont have a qt tank set up yet. also does prazi actually work? @@unclefreshreef4318

@@pokemonpearlmaster I would add a UV sterilizer to your display tank if you have corals in there. The medic is supposedly doing good things to beat down parasites and keep them at bay. The UV sterilizer will also but you need to make sure you change that bulb every 8 months as the UV will not be effective. Buy cheap ceramic media on amazon or ebay and throw away after use with tangs or fish that can accept copper. Corals, inverts and some fish cannot and the ceramic material will leach out copper and kill them. So just dispose of when finished. And yes, my angels both died. They had ich and I did some fresh water dips and very slowly brought copper up to therapeutic to only have them die in the last week. its pretty common for angels. Wrasse hate copper and ammonia so that is not an option in my experience.

I put 1 cup of BRS Pharma grade Kalk. It is WAY better than anything else and does not have all the dust issues when pouring it in. The Kalk dust went everywhere with non pharma grade kalk.

@@unclefreshreef4318 Thank you. Ordered the BRS Kalk as well.

Tyler Edgar 93 gallon cube

@@unclefreshreef4318thank you, looks nice.

@@tyleredgar98 thank you looks totally different now. I need to do an update video.

I'll keep an eye out for it. Was showing the girlfriend the tang cause we getting one once we get our tank going. Just got my first acrylic tank so gathering all the equipment now.

@@tyleredgar98 Bristletooth tangs are a great addition to your aquarium, but after keeping mine in a 90 gallon 30 inch tank I think they do better in a 48 inch long tank. They are very VERY active fish. They need lots of swimming room and water flow. Took a year for mine to stop fighting with his reflection. Now he is pretty settled in.

nmjhd1234 they only have one stirrer model now the one that I have. It’s the K1 good to 400 gallons. Just make sure you use the right amount of kalkwasser for your aquarium size and change out every couple of weeks to a month as you see your ph drop.

Uncle Fresh Reef i will be dosing it using the neptune DOS and so i might have it at its maximum saturation. How much kalk will be the max amount that we can add to this k1 for maximum saturation ? Also you mentioned about changing it every few wks to a month as ph drop indicating the purity depleting so maybe its wise to use less and dose more? Does this kalk reactor lives up to your expectation as far as its reliability? Would you have had purchase or run something different from this? I appreciate any feedback. TIA

nmjhd1234 I use 1 cup in mine which is probably too much. BRS suggests 2 teaspoons per gallon of RO water. That’s the max saturation. Check out their page for a load of information. Anything more wont help saturation. Good luck!

Thank you!

TN Salty thank you

Ya I'm growing SPS very well. I have a pocillopora, Stylo, Birdsnest, Monti all growing very well. I run 45% Blue and 15% white at peak time. I'm getting a Seneye soon for some other projects and I will be measuring this tank as well. I'll post an update soon.

Uncle Fresh Reef I have the 32” pro timer and running 65 blue and about 15 on whites. The lights just seem sooooooo power at those numbers.

@@The_reel_archer I also have a Pro 32 Timer on a 48x24x10 inch frag tank. I have those par numbers. It is 22 inches off the water surface and I'm getting 260 par at 90/50 (blue/white). I can run the whites harder and get 300 pretty easy. At 50/20 I'm getting 160 par in the middle and it falls off around the sides.

@@The_reel_archer Mike Herman wasn't playing around when he made the SB Reef Lights LOL. Hope they work as well for you as they do for me.

Uncle Fresh Reef well I have already had to have one repaired that’s less than a year old so........ quality could be a lot better

billshreeveable yes I did. All you need to do is get a wireless router for your SB Reef lights separate from your home wireless router. I don’t have my SB Reef router connected to my modem so it does not have internet access at all. I then turned off my home wireless network and my SB Reef lights both quickly connected to the SB reef wireless router. Once this is done I have never had a problem with them not being connected. Now that this is done I use my iPhone to connect to the SB Reef wireless router to make any changes I want to make or “sync” them to the same time. Hope this helps.

Matthew thank you 👍🏻

Matthew it would have to be about 18-24 inches to be higher than the inlet if the Kalk stirrer which would put it above the bottom of the aquarium. Not the way I wanted to go. I bought a few extra check valves to make sure if I have another failure.

That's a good tip. I didn't have one handy for this time but on the next build I will have a mirror ready!

Juss Less, where did you put the mirror? Thanks in advance.

Use a mirror at least twice the size of the fish a place it on either side of the aquarium and it should keep the problem fish distracted for a week or so so the new fish can pretty much roam around uun bothered after a week or two you can remove it and the new fish should be left alone

tamn3 I’m using a BRS 1/4 push in check valve. In fact I just made a video where it failed and I had to order a couple more. Check it out.

@@unclefreshreef4318 Great video. DO you have a pump or a doer pump from the water reservoir to the kalk stirrer?

Ed Bleka dosing pumps don’t work very well on kalk stirrers. They were slow and very noisy. I recommend and use the Tunze Osmolator. It’s bullet proof and is the best in my opinion. Make sure you run a check valve between the ro reservoir pump to the Kalkwasser stirrer inlet or you will back siphon big time. Make sure you get a spare because they can fail

Uncle Fresh Reef I just installed the tunze Osmolator. Can I put the out line from the stirrer to my sock area? Thanks again

Ed Bleka yes recommend putting it behind the return pump chamber. This helps keep the saturated kalk water from coating your return pump and probes. I also ran into issues with kalk percipient coating the Tunze osmolator optical float level sensor and cause it to fail.

Daily Reefing thanks I really appreciate you and Niles stopping by! LOL 😂

Koaleigh Aquaria thanks! He is a real character! I knew I could only have a small Bristletooth tang so I searched for this whitetail. They are not very common and expensive when available. I got this for a deal though.

Uncle Fresh Reef He's a real centerpiece to your tank, something to be proud of. Is he from Hawaii or Tahiti?

Koaleigh Aquaria thank you very much. Definitely learned a lot over this first year back in the hobby. Hopefully my second year will go smoother. Can’t wait to see your 125 progress!

Thanks Jerry. I bet you are a happier reef keeper without the antics of Tangs LOL. They can be a pain sometimes.

Well I left out my large tank is only 60 cube so the tang police would be on me. lol But even if I had a larger tank I'd be tang less

That's why I have the Bristletooth tang in my tank is a 90 cube, wasn't big enough for a Zebrasoma. You could always get a smaller tang and then rehome him at a later date if he gets too big or upgrade tank sizes but I agree, sometimes a smaller tank is pretty rewarding not having to deal with tangs. I'm planning a 210 build soon and I am strongly considering make it a Wrasse only tank LOL! Unfortunately the wifey loves the BT and even named him so I am sort of stuck with him. I think I will get a purple tang to put his attitude in check LOL.

Frenki not eating with copper is normal. You can add carbon to remove the copper.