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Hey there, there is a thread about this on the creators github: github.com/wagiminator/C64-Collection/issues/18 Basically, the 1571 is reported to work, and the 1581 "I suspect the 1581 will work as well, as long as you don't use operations that require things like partitions or extra tracks (formatting). " I personally only have the 1541, so that is all i can test myself.

🤔. I don't recall having any left over screws, but i will go look at it. If that were the case, that would have made the insert a lot more solid. Thanks for the comment!

@@Retro_Cave The kit should have included 6 screws, but yeah assembly was abit confusing without instruction or pictures. Took me like an hour trying to figure out how all the parts came together. Here is a video its a different kit i believe its an older version, just imagine that bracket that is separate and gets attached to the shell is now just one hole piece in the newer version. It should still give you the basic idea how it gets put together. th-cam.com/video/kdb2tI_zoL4/w-d-xo.html

@@cidelogic I watched that video, mine totally didn't come with that mounting bracket. I'm sure its just a different design or something, i got mine here: amazon.com/dp/B0CKQZ8KK1?ref_=pe_386300_442618370_TE_sc_as_ri_0. And after watching my video over again, i got two screws i can't account for in the video. That being said, i'm sure your right, i could have attached the shroud to the board first. Welp, maybe i will take it apart and fix it properly (assuming i can find the screws)

Some many ups and downs, i had to get my tv to even tune to channel 96, then the RF adapter was bad, then the fuse was blown. In the end, its working though :)

@@Retro_Cave Victory goes to the persistent!

the black insert came with the mod. Its injection molded and not 3d printed. This is the kit i bought: www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKQZ8KK1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Oh no! :facepalm:, i mean... *poof! its a Dreamcast!

I'm running out of things to double check. I get a blank video when i turn it on, tv sees the snes sending out a signal, but i get nothing :/

I did a full re-cap. Still dead :( I will re-visit the connector and see if i can get anything.

Glad to have you and thanks for the suggestion! I will work on some in the future :)

Oh, i never use lead free solder. Leaded all the way.

Lead free is hard to work with, and doesn't have the flex or give like leaded solder. I use leaded unless i absolutely cannot for some reason.

@@Retro_Cave Yep, I absolutely agree with you. In addition, the risk of destroying various components and/or the circuit board is quite high, as the processing temperature for lead-free solder is significantly higher. The longevity of the solder joints is also highly questionable.

I grabbed the OST and apparently that first song was a little too repetitive :| I'll find a better balance for the next video.

Lol, what? What Piano?

Scrub scrub, ya, i've cleaned it quite well.

Which LED? The adapters i make should all have green LED's. The LED's on the 1541 disk drive really shouldn't matter what color they are, as they are not RGB.

dude my led is orange also an when i enter python-diskbuddy-gui.py i just get a syntax error @@Retro_Cave

Oh, no problem. There is a battery inside that needs replacement. Here is a video tutorial: th-cam.com/video/10J9l2NfSIo/w-d-xo.html

You never had a 30 year old SNES I'm guessing

@@DimitrisDr3am ur right hadnt though some youtubers had told me they had Nes snes for over 30 years and still works

Both my SNES's were working until i started messing with mine, and i did something to it. It didn't just stop working on its own. I'm STILL trying to figure out what i did to it.

@@Retro_Cave i see. In the 90 s i only had sega genesis not Super nes. I didnt pick up snes until 2018 i got it for 77 bucks at a gamestore in town

That would be the key step in the repair is to understand what you did when you first started tinkering. Sometimes, accidental tinkering can result in a loss.​ What was the cause that got you to crack it open? My guess when the fuse blew its a possibility it also knocked some of the ppu or cpu ic's out. Usually a blow fuse is a easy fix but if more current went in after the fuse blew by tinkering that could have caused the damage. @Retro_Cave

Could be a processor problem. they make snes cartridges that are made to troubleshoot specific codes that you can look up. Please post an update video🙏🏻

@@tommyfobe84 i can't even get it to boot my everdrive to run the troubleshoot cart. I've re-capped, and tried a new D1 diode. So far no dice :(

I MIGHT have figured out the issue. I was poking around looking for shorts when i found a shorted capacitor... which in turn led me to a shorted inductor L1. I ordered new parts and will do an update when i get them.

Did you check voltage reading after replacing the 7805? If you see a voltage drop, it could be a blown component somewhere

For starters, its packed away. Secondly, when i decided to make these i got a tad bit in a hurry and fried my U2 CIA chip. I can make a video using this device, but i can't actually use the disks on my C64 at the moment :(

From wikipedia: In soldering metals, flux serves a threefold purpose: it removes any oxidized metal from the surfaces to be soldered, seals out air thus preventing further oxidation, and by facilitating amalgamation, improves wetting characteristics of the liquid solder. Basically it allows the solder to flow and adhere to the parts smoothly. Otherwise the solder will bead up like water droplets. Best way to think of flux is as a surfactant.

I re-capped the main board already. I have not done the smaller board where this chip is. I will be doing that next.

no probs had this fault as well with the sound board just to find out it was the caps👌👍@@Retro_Cave

Thanks for the feedback! You are always welcome to share my videos to anyone. I will have a Neo Geo CD video coming up a little later, so keep an eye out for that one too :)

I don't have access to view that link. :/

I just changed it to public, you should be able to see it now.