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Thanks for watching the video, and for commenting! What model Studebaker do you have? You are the Fredrick Winterburn that builds CDI system, right? I came across your site when I was searching for 6v CDI systems for possible use on my '54 Studebaker 4-door sedan that has a '64 259 transplanted into it, but is still 6v. Not many 6 volt CDI systems out there. I don't care for Pertronix systems because all they do is replace the points -- I've never had problems with points. This is a good reminder that I need to get back on the CDI project. Anyway,, thank you for watching!

Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for the great story. Yes, you are right on about the bellhousing that Studebaker used to attach the McKinnon engine to the BW tranny -- it was the same as Checker's. Not sure if Studebaker actually bought them from Checker, or went to Checker's supplier. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!

I'll have to paint the box fan to match the car! 🙂🙂 Thank you for the kind words. It will still need some fine tuning, but was happy with the first runs.

Thanks, hopefully it will run good too. 🙂

No, I don't believe so.

I am too!! It has made a big difference in the other cars I've done. Thanks for watching.

Hi, thanks for watching! As far as the accelerator linkage boot, I don't think that should be much of a problem, since this sound deadener is not too thick. Would think that leaving about 1/4" around the edge of the boot hole without the kilmat material should work. As far as where to stop in the front, I put sound deadener on the firewall before installing the firewall panel/insulation, so I'll just run the kilmat up to that.

I'm sure hoping it will! Thanks!

Thank you for the kind words Rob!

No no no​@@r1lark😅😅p

Thanks for watching, and for the info on how you prime the lube system!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you Rusty!

Sorry, don't think I video'd the rear axle bearings.

Thanks Rusty! I'm looking forward to it too!!

Thanks for watching! The Flight-O-Matics are good transmissions, but are quite different from 'todays' auto transmissions. They start out in 2nd gear (except for some early FOMs and some six cylinder FOMs) unless you either pull the lever down into low when starting out (then move it back to Drive when you want to go to 2nd), or unless you floor the accelerator pedal for a 'jackrabbit' start. 🙂 Yes, they are reliable transmissions, and fairly strong. Personally, I'm a 'manual with overdrive' guy, but this is such a solid low mileage car I didn't want to change it to manual. Good luck on yours!

Thank you Rusty!

Thanks for the kind words Rusty!

Yes, that is what I did. As I mentioned, not sure that did a whole lot but it made me feel better. 🙂

Well this is good to know Thanks.​@@r1lark

Thank you Rusty! One of my sons (the one in the video) moved about 20 minutes from us, so on his off days I can get him to help me on the heavy/big stuff. For years I did all this myself.

Thank you Tony. Yes, the frame and rear axle are close to identical between the '55 Speedster and GT Hawk.

I know I said bellhousing (I tried to put some text in the video to correct that), but it's really for the converter, to align the converter properly with the hole in the bellhousing, so the snout on the converter is properly lined up with the pump on the transmission.

@r1lark It's been a while since I've done a automatic. Used to doing standards all the time.

There is a aluminum ring that centers the bell housing to the crankshaft. If I could I would tap the holes in the back of the crank so bolts could be used , Studebaker should have done that .

Hi StreetFreak, thanks for watching and commenting! Do a search on "semi-tubular rivets", you should get a good number of hits. I have gotten them from this company in the past: www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/semi-tubular-rivets You can also try the same search on Amazon, but sometimes those items don't have a lot of the different sizes and head shapes. Just be careful, if they say tubular rivet they are probably for leather work; the rivets used in the vent window assemblies were pretty much always semi-tubular rivets. Good luck on your restoration!

Well, that hubcap had flown off one time previously, so no great loss -- two strikes and it's out of here :-)

Thanks Bill, it was good to see you today!

Thank you! You too!

Thanks Corey! It was a rainy day, but a little rain won't hurt a Studebaker. :-)

@@r1lark damn right. Lol

Hi, thanks for commenting. These are very easy to work on, as are most older American cars. Parts are readily available. Three of the biggest Studebaker parts vendors are: www.studebakerparts.com; www.mystudebaker.com, and www.studebaker-intl.com. There are also a lot of smaller vendors listed on www.studebakervendors.com. There is a large Studebaker Drivers Club, website is studebakerdriversclub.com/

Thanks for watching, and good luck on your Hawk build!

Bob, sorry to hear about your Belair. I believe the third brake light helps, but the biggest problem I believe is people not paying attention (i.e,, on their phone).

Well, I don't do Studebaker oil pan removal/replacement in the car; many do, maybe they have made a video. (I'll be looking for your video of how to do this with the engine in the car. 🙂) As for getting the thick square gasket in, just keep working at it. The current gasket sets don't seem to have quite the correct dimensions on this gasket, especially when compared to original Studebaker gaskets. That's why I had to turn it 90 degrees and re-angle the ends. Then it's just working it down into the groove. The Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket helps getting it in -- sort of lubricates it. As for the 90% that say not to use sealant on the side gaskets.........your car, your choice of how you do the side gaskets. I showed how I do them, but everyone has their own pet method.

Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, a ground directly to the starter is always good. As explained in the video, the ground cable goes from the battery to the stock location on the water manifold bolt, then another cable was attached to the same place and jumpers to one of the starter bolts.

Actually this video does show how to adjust the end play by pulling the crank gear and changing shims. The crank endplay had already been measured in the previous video -- see "Studebaker Rescue Video #19 - Crankshaft End Play Check". Thanks for watching.

Thanks Freddy! Hope you and your family are doing well!!

Thanks, hopefully things will move quicker with this car now!

Thanks John, glad you are getting notifications. I haven't posted a video though in a long time. Hopefully that's going to change. Got this car, plus engine assembly and testing for the '62 GT Hawk.

Hi, thanks for watching and the kind words! I used a Studebaker Avanti shop manual, but the 1959-1964 'regular' car shop manual has the same information. Here is a link to the Avanti Shop Manual: www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0001003a&uKeY=AAACE

Hi, thanks. The book is fairly expensive, also shipment to Europe. Is it more detailed than 1bad6t.com/pdf/t-10.pdf? Thanks for a quick feedback, Udo

Hi Larry, I know it's been a while, but my video camera is broke. And I have been shocked at the prices for new ones. Was hoping to get one that smooths out the video when the camera person (me) doesn't film very smoothly. Looking at the GoPro9 but it's pricey, plus it gets hot and shuts down unless it's in a area with good air movement (or mounted on a car or boat or bicycle, etc).

@@r1lark ok thanks , im glad your okay . im looking forward to more videos.

@@Oldcarnut63 Thanks Larry, hopefully not too much longer.

Hi Joseph! You have my sympathies 🙂, that is a really hard job replacing the oil pan gaskets working under the car! The thing I've learned about replacing pan gaskets is don't get into a hurry, even if something doesn't go right. I know that's hard to do, and I have to tell myself that on every one I replace.

@@r1lark the hardest part was keeping the front gasket set . It tookna second set of hands to do the final adjustments. I'll keep on my way now. Loving the Studebaker 1964 Champ with 259 w4 spd overdrive..

Rob, the last time I contacted him (a couple of months ago) he was still doing them. I have several that need to be sent to him also.

I found his email in the Turning Wheels studebaker magazine and emailed him a couple weeks ago and haven’t received a reply. I contacted the phone numbers listed but they say that they are disconnected. Do you know any other way I could get in contact with him?

Hi Rob, here is the last email that I used to contact Ingvar: ijvik@q.com Is this the same one you used? Sorry it took me so long to reply, I just saw your reply.