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The point is to not have it pop up and down when you just barely touch it with the tip of your finger. I’ll skim it with body filler before painting. But if that’s not fixed the paint will not last long. Thanks for commenting

I’ve watched videos on welding iron, seems pretty tricky. Yes heating it up and slow cooling with a blanket oven or bbq. Nickel stick welding rods….

Those are great engines. So simple and easy to work on

For this car it’s an attractive cover for all the stuff under it

It is pretty! Thanks for the comment

It’s on my engine stand now. All re ringed an valves lapped. New reground cam and a coat of red paint. I have newer videos with electronic ignition and it was running awesome. Building a car for it too, see my last short with the sheet metal and wood floor

There are cheap flat aluminum adapters on eBay. They bolt on the ls block then you bolt the old type to those.

Good information, I’ve been driving my ls nova with the ar5 for months now. 7k in first at just about every light. It’s holding up so far

Thanks! I have other videos of it running. The best after the electronic ignition was installed. But it smoked pretty bad. That’s why I took it apart. Stay tuned!

I bought a second one. So much easier

Yes it is, my 1965

@@Motorhead_Mark sweet I just got one too is yours a manual ?

@user-david6265 no it’s a 6.0 w an automatic. But my nova has a manual and I like that better. So someday I’ll put a manual in my chevelle

Yes! So easy and it folds up. I have 4 now

That’s funny!

Yes I think it’s good. I have a bigger miller at work for the thick stuff. I use the 200 at home for time consuming sheet metal

I got a 3 jaw chuck with a Morse tapper 2 as one piece. Strangely it was 3/8 thread for the holder. I just used a threaded rod

Awesome comment! Thanks. Not sure if I’ll be able to get that on a dyno but I’m building all kinds of crazy stuff I haven’t filmed yet. Stay tuned for the Northstar in a Porsche 914 😀

Nice, I think that’s the only way

Cool, thanks for commenting. I did this a little on my flatbread ford v8

McLeod hydraulic. Blead it into a bowl like the instructions say or you will loose your mind. Plan on removing the hood and from seat to make it a bit easier

It was the points. I have a newer video with it running awesome. I have the engine apart for performance cam regrind and re ring. Stay tuned

@@Motorhead_Mark You got this! Nice work.

Oh are you watching with the sound off?

I don’t remember, but they have a distinct rise at the shifter. Look up images online. They come in a bunch of vehicles. Pontiac solstice too. The shifter moves back a few inches too, I folded up a new metal console and put a hurst boot on it. Made a shift lever w 8 ball on it😀

That’s what the internet says

It’s been like a year… I think the whole plastic thing comes out and I did an aluminum panel that fit in the area. The trick was the little bump at the steering column. I used a bench belt sander to form that. Hole saws, plywood to drill against. Assemble on a bench. I don’t think it was a big deal. I think the tach and speedo were smaller. Not 5”. I don’t have the car here

Cool thanks 😊

Unfortunately no, few other projects first. But hopefully I’ll make it a roller with the engine bolted in next month.

Bought them awhile ago on eBay. IDE 44? ??I have a newer video with the electronic ignition. Runs so much better!

It looks pretty good. I just dropped it off a the cam regrind shop for a performance profile. I just picked up a second straight 8 the other day

Ford uses a different bolt pattern. The input shafts are longer.. I have ford pattern t5 behind a packard straight 8. If you’re clever with tools you can watch my transmission adapter video. A piece of 3/4 aluminum off eBay. Drill press with a hole saw the diameter you need and a piece of paper you could use it!

@Motorhead_Mark I'm thinking of just slapping a 302 in there till I can afford to do a built trans for the ls

I ended up using an ar5. I found one for $600. The fabbot adapter was 400. Use my video for running the hydraulic lines if you do go with the ar5

I did get that car as a basket case with no motor. See my 1968 Torino video…so I needed to buy parts, those things are cheap and 1 wire makes them run. I have another that I’m about to drop into my 460 station wagon ohv.. see my 1977 country squire Ltd road warrior videos 😀

@@Motorhead_Mark Well the duraspark you took off will run with a $30 HEI module remote mounted and won't cook the module, won't be in the way either and it is even cheaper and performance is the same and it doesn't look like you have a skunk cabbage head under your hood. Oh and duraspark if the original harness is intact is only like 2 wires plus ground to the car. And it is also HIGH ENERGY too. I hate putting gm junk on things when it is unnessary and also is chinese garbage.

@@kblackav8or thanks for the comment. Yes not a fan of Chinese crap. Maybe I’ll look for that stuff on eBay

@@Motorhead_Mark here's what you do, the distributor that came on those is actually so good that MSD copied it. Until the fakes came out, for years guys would just remote wire a HEI module (on a piece of metal for a heat sink with some compound) to the Ford distributor and then pick a good coil to run with it. Not very complicated, cheaper and better quality typically than the chinese junk and it fits and works better. If you decide to upgrade to a MSD box.. easy, keep your distributor and wire up a MSD, MSD used to sell a harness to literally plug in to a Ford duraspark distributor. The MSD and Ford magnetic pickup are identical for the trigger in the distributor. I can't figure out how to post a picture on here but I have done it myself a couple times and if you google how to do it you will see the diagram to wire it is 4 wires and simple and you don't even cut off the plug on the Ford distributor, just use solderless connectors and plug into the blade connectors in there. The Ford modules if you get the right ones are actually quite good, do almost everything the HEI module does aside from being encased in a bigger box plus they retard the timing during start making the engine crank over easier. AMC and International both used Duraspark as well so it wasn't limited to just the Ford stuff. People hear 1 wire and get all excited but really nobody really raced those because they don't do heat well (meanwhile your hot air from your radiator is blasting it) they were notoriously unreliable in the early days of it and people had to carry a couple spare modules around. they are fine on GM stuff which is where they belong. On ford stuff they block your air cleaner on a lot of things, they block hoses, they are enormous and goofy looking on a Ford. If you paid $100 for the chicomm junk, I can do it my way for about $50 with rock auto parts and never pull the distributor. And if you can't do 4 or 5 wires, you shouldn't be rodding.

Yes I have improved, thanks for the encouragement. I welded some aluminum the other day. Came out pretty good. I like how it doesn’t splatter metal every where

I’ve put the engine back together with the transaxle. I have a Porsche 914 that’s going into as a mid engine transverse mount. Very technical build, probably take me awhile

Too many crazy people out there. Have you watched the news lately??

Ive only done a 5” aluminum round, but sooo powerful compared to the old motor. It would have stuck for sure. I made up that sheet metal mount for the controller. I think it’s the only way to fly

@@Motorhead_Mark Great Info. I had considered going to a three-phase motor and vfd. Going this route would be less than the motor by itself. Have you changed out the spindle head bearings yet. I'm told that cuts out a lot of chatter.

@faroironandcustoms6577 not yet, I only have 15 hours on it

Do you have a straight 8? Just dropped the cam off yesterday for a performance regrind

Wow! That’s a smokin deal!! Just pick up a regulator if your arc is getting blown sideways. If you think you need to set it to 15 line pressure try 8-9 if the arc goes sideways

@@Motorhead_Mark I’ve never tig welded before so hopefully I can learn on this

What did it for me was an Eastwood video. The guy stressed angle of torch and rod. Settlings on that machine are only voltage and current type

I just took the engine completely apart. Cylinder 1 had two stuck rings causing it to smoke badly. Otherwise the inside of the engine is in very good condition. Cam regind gasket set and rings is all it needs. Should be running again in a few weeks