วีดีโอ

Did you attach the joists from the outside of the 12 foot foundation? Or did you just rely on the joist hangers for the attachment to the 12 foot sides?

If you just had unscrewed those end 10 feet so the 12 foot was on the outside of the 10 feet horizontals - would that have fixed your 10 foot joist problem? I think so. Would have saved you the time of having to cut them all? OK that's precisely what you did! thanks

Thanks. Best Subaru rear wheel replacement vid on TH-cam. Cheers.

Thank Phil mine doesn’t squeak but flow is very low ! Very helpful

Great job on the video series and the cabin build! 😀🪚 I am building the same cabin and it is helpful to watch and learn from your build. I like how you adjusted the height of your loft and allowed for open space up there. It looks much more comfortable now. I also like the brown tinted tufftex you chose. It looks great with the wood.

Awesome video, I have been putting this off but no longer have that option.

I’m watching videos because I’m planning to build a tent platform in my back yard. I have so much time invested already and haven’t bought the first item. Well, except for the tents. I am wondering about preserving the wood to protect it from water damage. My platform will be 10 x 16. I have a Pomoly hot tent stove so I need enough space so I don’t have to worry about catching anything on fire and still fit the grandkids in there with me. But thank you for all the thoughts, mistakes, redos to save me from enduring the same frustration. Very nice deck. I’m hoping mine looks as good!

How did ya fix the issue of the hub pushing out the rear seal? Did you end up with inner race issues from pressing on it? Seems like ya need a seat that holds both outter and inner bearing. Yet the clearance there needs a tapered seat. Thanks for the video! Just trying to remedy running into the loose hub install.

This car is pristine. Try this job up north in the Salt and rust belt.

Pro tip Next time lift your car put your hand on the shock Spin the wheel, if you feel vibration in the shock, The bearing is bad.

Good job I got to do it I don't know if I can

Good effort and tenacity, screw the inevitable haters at the end of the comments, too. Just pinging in or staking the hub to the axle or whatever, is the only main critique I have, in a friendly nice tone. I only know from other videos I have watched. Also, using pb blaster on the big long 14 mm nut you couldn't get out by itself, seems to fix the issue, instead of WD40. And then lastly, I guess you made it work, but I came here looking for which press kit to use, I have both on my Amazon wishlist, but I feel like the rear kit would have been better hear since it was a rear wheel bearing, but maybe it doesn't matter. The rear kit is like $30 and the front $76 or something. Just my 2 cents. I am going to attempt the job myself in about a month, just researching a lot beforehand. Oh and I am also going to use a seal puller for the seals, and yes, use lots of grease. Good game and keep at it bro, positive energy to you!!

what happened to the washer at the end when bolt put back in arm?

땡큐~

I like the video very much! It reminds me of whenever I try to decide to do something myself and all of these unforeseen obstacles pop up. I actually broke a breaker bar half inch on the front so I’m not even gonna try this. Thanks for your sacrifice.

do u have the parts number bearing and 3 piece seal?

4 wheel drive the steering box the steering arm has to b lowered away from the steering box how ever many inches u raised the truck

The bump steer is not right the tie rod is probably lower than the bottom ball joint along er a arm is needed ,,,u raised the truck ,,,lower it 2 to 3 inches and it will stop ,,,if you don't want to change the a arm😊

Hey man, i’ve been using your video to do this job on my 2000 forester and your video has helped a ton. I got the hub out and got the outer arm down (the one that doesn’t have the weird cover over the nut/the same one you were able to get loose) but i cant seem to move the drum/ wheel assembly enough to get the axle out. I’ve tried getting the infamous long bolt out but i was only able to get the nut off of it. Was there anything else you did to get the long bolt out of the knuckle or did you just pull it out with the strut/outer arm attatched to the bolt? Anything helps thanks!

Thanks for the video. This is a useful video. Your model of faucet is the same as mines. But mines is an older version from 2003. I just replaced my hot water cartridge. I had to do it by myself but when I looked at the video I could see two flat sides on the brass body of the faucet. My faucet has it but the only difference is that I have a big thin nut holding the faucet body to the sink. You actually put a wrench on flat part of the brass body when you were loosening the cartridge out of the faucet body. Since I was by myself I had to figure out how to hold the brass body without damaging it or the threads for the nut. It took a bit of time to figure out a procedure to hold a wrench to the two flat sides on the body and using a 5/8 socket with a ratchet to loosen the cartridge but I got it done. I didn't need to pull out the faucet body. If I had someone to help me with this job it could easily be done in less than 10 minutes. I would need someone on top with the socket to loosen the cartridge and then torque the new one in while I'm under the sink holding the brass faucet body with a wrench. Another video does it that way. The cartridge was easy enough to loosen since I was using a longer ratchet. Oh yeah, I had to replace the shut off valves. I could barely move the handles on the valves. So I bought two 1/4 turn stop valves and replace both of them since I will replace the cold faucet cartridge later this week.

man your ttruck is beautiful, hardly any rust!

You are sooooo lucky. The ass that installed the sink I'm dealing with added so much putty to the faucet that I can't get the faucet handle off.

Sir, I just want to congratulate you on an excellent job and thank you for the video. Perhaps it's a bit too much for me to tackle on my 2005 Subaru Forester!

Moogs (ball joints) on my '12 Ram 2500 are on their second set, in about 50k miles, and that's after trying the AAM specifics for my model. These trucks are notorious for eating them. That's after only having the stock suspension, then coil spacers to level, then to full on coil level kit. I won't buy anything Moog until they get back to making good parts. I don't tear up my stuff, so lesson learned on getting quality parts. Going to try Dana/Spicer this month. The best thing to do though is get a heavy duty track bar. I've had death wobble before w/ family in the truck and wife wants to sell it. Haven't had it since changing over to a BD Diesel Track bar. Thing is stout!

If you orient the struts more vertical than horizontal they will work much better. I have the same struts on mine and it can stay up without support.

Where did you get the plans for the cabin? Great videos i enjoyed it. Thabk you.

Helo

I would have done a double fold-out bunk bed from the wall with chains

I would have used pine qood for the awning door so it won't be so heavy

I never saw you stake the axle nut! You need to take a chisel(not a screwdriver) and peen the locking ring f the axle nut into the groove of the axle. Otherwise, you’re going to be doing this job again, except you’ll also be replacing the CV axle assembly too. The splines in the hub and on the axle will get ground down once the nut gets loose…

What was the total cost?

Thank you. While I didn't need a cartridge, I appreciate seeing how a Kohler faucet is fixed. Helped me this morning and probably saved me about $200 for a plumber to do it.

Hi Can you please tell me the size of your cabin ? Thanks

Well done, now I have the car.

Great

Try all that up north in the snow county. Everything rusty

Faster to buy whole assembly , pack extra grease behind the seal , they have very little grease from manufacturer , , I check mine by jacking up rear , both tires off the ground and spin by hand , u will hear and feel which one is getting rough , I just replaced right rear and 22000 later needs a new one, did not pack extra grease in the first one, be prepared to replace often , just like the head gasket , replace drive and replace , after 1996 subaru went down hill , they are junk .

Has to add the’ music. Why? Why! Why do people think an annoying music track must be added to everything.

Not helpful since removal of Kohler faucet top was easy for him. Not all Kohler styles are this easy.

I changed the bearing and axle. The loud growling is gone but there's still a slight whoomp whoomp noise. That I think could be the backing play for the drums. But the sound gets louder when I turn. Its weird I don't know what's going on

Thank you!

Great Videos! I really want to try this. I purchased plans some time ago. You just motivated me, after seeing you carry that fromt wall!

Hey is that the front wheel drive bearing press from Amazon? I can't figure out witch one I need?

👏 👏. Great video. Makes me want to hate life right about now. I will say you put some effort into this 😂. Best video ever and way to use the foot and leg 🦵 breaker bar method. 🎉I do it so often. Love this.

JUST BUY THE SPINDAL.......DUMB

u have no clue what to do

What are the dimensions? Maybe you said it at some point but I missed it. Thanks!

Great video! I think the Kohler repair instructions suggest using a strap wrench and simply twist anticlockwise. Difficult to get purchase on the base, even with a rubber strap wrench. This looks easier (and less likely to destroy the finish!) Thanks again

Should have cleaned the bearing and antiseeze the bearing before assembly.

Good job, Sir.