วีดีโอ

@@bluevyno4766 lots to unpack there. Shoot me an email and let's talk. Andrew@gwatneyperformance.com.

@@SilverSurfer77 factory everything, rad, oil cooler, manual trans with cooler in the rad.

@@mach5118 it works excellent. I purchased mine from PCM of NC many years ago - they still sell it.

@@1WickedSS I usually go to Empire, which is about half the drive for me.

@@andrewcammer2535 gotcha. Where is empire? I am from Western Mass so Lebanon is I believe the closest to me. Currently running 11.660. But should be in the 10s shortly.

@@1WickedSS Empire is south of Rochester NY. What's your setup? I went 11.67 back in '19, and it's been a slow journey since then. Went 11.1 last year, really hope to sneak in the the 10s this year.

@@andrewcammer2535 so I have TH400 trans with a 8in converter coming. 5500 stall. Last one was only 4200 stall and tuner and transmission guy said I didn’t have enough stall. GPI SS4 NFC cam. Holley high ram intake manifold. Borla exhaust which I may get rid of and just run headers. VMS wheels. Stock bottom end. Little bit of head work done to stock heads. Nothing major. Engine bored 20 over I believe. So a few things here and there. Should be in the 10s if not low low 11s. Last converter was killing me. Every shift I was dropping 1500-1800 RPM which is not good. My 60ft times are also trash 1.7s.

@@1WickedSS That ought to get into the 10s pretty easily once you get it lined out - sounds like a great combo. You think that sucks for shift drop - us manual guys are 2000+rpm on every gear change! Doing it the hard/slow way!

@@armandocarranzajr1751 that is a lot to unpack here in the comments section of a TH-cam video. Why don't you shoot me an email at andrew@gwatneyperformance.com where did the details of your build and I can help talk through the considerations you would need to make for the max package.

@@jimmyfreeze3782 ain't that skilled - I'd probably break an ankle

Glad you got it squared away. That's really the gain to be had with an aftermarket or factory ported throttle body - that response down low. If you look at the factory TB there is a huge step behind the blade that pinches airflow at low blade openings. This is done by the OEMs to make everything nice and gentle, but it sure is boring. TB porters, or aftermarket TBs reduce that step, which makes that early blade opening area extremely sensitive. Sorry to hear about the less that desirable issues with your Katech. We sell those routinely and I can tell you that as a whole, they are good quality and we have minimal come-backs, no more than any other brand. I can also agree that quality on parts in a very general sense isn't what it used to be, and that surely is frustrating.

Well - that wasn't the test. The test was pretty specific criteria - is there value in adding a 103mm throttle body to a factory intake manifold. For that, you obviously need the factory manifold. We've done a lot of intake testing (see below) which left us confident that the intake would become restrictive before the heads, so they were a non-factor. The fact that we picked up zero power and zero change in manifold vacuum is strong evidence that the flow limits of the 103mm on the factory manifold are not the throttle body itself, and the modification is not worth the effort and cost. However, we also did a big square port intake test a few years back that has a number of different manifold combinations on a heads/cam setup that was designed to really push the manifolds to their limits of performance. Here is the link if you're interested: gwatneyperformance.com/the-ultimate-ls3-intake-manifold-dyno-shootout/

@@BigPo24 I'd be happy to help with those questions, why don't you shoot me an email at andrew@gwatneyperformance.com

Agree - way too much for the current motor, will be awesome for the built motor next year

It's not something we pursued further. This was already a modified and ported manifold, so it's likely just the design of the manifold itself. I don't think you're ever going to overcome that. It's still one of the best Factory intake manifolds to be offered on a late model car, and even untouched they work quite well

Not required for a 1pc. I do need to do a video about the rear diff though - I have a 9" now and I wish I had done it sooner.

With the stock bottom end and no additional fly cutting and cylinder head Milling the compression is modest, and so games with E85 will also be modest, probably somewhere around the 15 wheel horsepower mark. With increased compression those gains could be a little more substantial, but port injected naturally aspirated engines only stand to pick up so much on e85.

@@andrewcammer2535 ....with this set up....and you wanted to add boost....would it be better to add a procharger set up or lsa set up ?

@@jameswessel42 this camshaft profile and compression ratio is more suited to the centrifugal supercharger, like a procharger, rather than a positive displacement supercharger like the lsa.

@@andrewcammer2535 ...thank you...just found your channel and love the content....nice car and build

@@jameswessel42 thanks! If I can ever help get you set up with something from us here at GPI give me a shout. Andrew@gwatneyperformance.com

I use an N2MB, which uses the clutch sensor, so I can dial it in to exactly where in the pedal travel I want it.

That could work. The converter is tighter than you would want it to be for naturally aspirated Duty, but that may be a compromise worth making because when you add boost it's going to be close to right on the money. If you want to get a Max package together, shoot me an email and I'll be happy to help you. Andrew@gwatneyperformance.com

This was with a 3.5-inch one piece aluminum driveshaft made by G-Force, so very similar. I agree, you need to be careful with drive shaft speed with this much rear gear. I have calculated critical speed somewhere around 7700 - 8000 rpm, which does impose some limits on top speed. I'm not big on roll racing, so it doesn't really matter to me, but someday I might consider going to a 4-inch diameter to buy myself a little additional margin.

I definitely agree with that, there is some ET and miles per hour lost in the shifting for sure. The transmission was a little hurt when I bought the car many years ago, and hasn't lived a great life since then, and it doesn't put up with aggressive shifting very well. I have to baby it a bit. It doesn't like the high rpm either. I have since made a better pass that you can find on my channel, and that has a little bit better shifting in it after some more adjusting on the clutch stop to get a cleaner release. But, even that is still slow, and the car really needs the transmission worked over so it can be shifted like it should.

3.91s are the way to go with an all motor 6L80 car. I have a article with more detail on it: gwatneyperformance.com/gearing-and-converter-options-for-camaro-and-corvette-part-2-automatic-cars/

There is a lot to unpack here. I would think your difficulties are likely a combination of several things, including gearing, tire choice, and clutch release. You did not mention what tire you have on the car, but guessing at the wheel type and size I suspect it's some form of a moderately hard street tire. No matter what you do those are going to be a challenge to make work exceptionally well from a standing start on an unprepped street. If you're very serious about improving your performance from a dig then you'll need to think seriously about a wheel and tire change to compliment that sort of racing. In terms of gearing it is very hard to find a convincing argument against the 4.10 for naturally aspirated manual transmission fifth gen Camaro's. Rather than try to overwhelm you with information in this reply I have a article I've written on the subject that I would suggest you take a long look at. Here is the link: gwatneyperformance.com/gearing-and-converter-options-for-camaro-and-corvette-part-1-manual-cars/ Finally, the launch technique itself is absolutely important. I will start at the line with the car at idle, in gear, and pull on the emergency brake firmly with my thumb depressed on the release so that only remains on while I am holding it. Then I will start to release the clutch just enough to barely get the Driveline pre-loaded with a little bit of drag. Then I will set my launch rpm, and that's a huge variable dependent on the surface you're on, the tire, the gearing, the engine combination, etc. I can't tell you what you need because of the high number of variables involved, you'll just need to experiment and practice, which is probably the biggest key in this entire equation. Once I have my preload and launch rpm established I make a smooth release of the clutch and brake with a smooth application of throttle. With sub optimal traction you may need a fairly long slip with less than full throttle. Your long gear ratio is amplifying the length of the slip needed as well.

@@andrewcammer2535 Thank you, Mr Cammer. You are the man. I will check out your link. I really didn't expect such a thorough response to me. The Camaro community is lucky to have you and GPI. I definitely feel like the gearing and tire are my downfalls here now that Insee this response. I wish I had found this video and link BEFORE I did the mods. I have the hendrix diff bushings and the LPW cover. BMR subframe bush, toe rods trailing arms etc... I damn sure should have went with better gears or trutrac at the time but I was ignorant to that. I'm indeed running michelin pilot sport street tires as well. Time to search for a drag pack and bookmark some 4.11s

G-Force Renegade - it's part of the 9" rear end setup.

I’m trying to make it on stock axles

@@garrettmccarty2642 trust me when i say you won't. burned through at least 6. they can't take the 1-2 shift.

@@crowsgarage6669 ya I found that out just broke #3 on a 1-2 Friday night.

@@garrettmccarty2642 its rough just dropped renegades into my built 8.6" we'll see how long it lasts from what andrew says not long apparently the case is prone to cracking

Oh yea. I run a Tilton slave now because the OEM one failed a couple times.

@@andrewcammer2535 that will be what I get next I have gone through about 4 of the stock throwout bearings

@@justincruz6192 are you using the a metal throwout bearing support. The factory slave itself isn't too bad, but the throwout bearing support piece of it is plastic, and they melt and destory the bearing when they do. Feel free to reach out if you want to discuss or get setup with either a billet throwout bearing support, or a Tilton slave - andrew@gwatneyperformance.com.

I have the metal support the speed bleeder and the braided clutch line but after this one fails I'll need to get the tilton will my braided lines fit on the tilton also?

If the car is staying naturally aspirated then there is no reason to shy away from anything less than a 4.10. If you're adding boost or nitrous then sometimes you'll have a case for a less aggressive ratio. I have a really good article about choosing gear ratios for this platform on our website. Here is a link: gwatneyperformance.com/gearing-and-converter-options-for-camaro-and-corvette-part-1-manual-cars/

11.14@124. The 4.63 gear ratio makes it sound much faster than it actually is because it flies through those first two gear changes so quickly. It is definitely faster and more powerful, but it's still just a modest naturally-aspirated setup.

@andrewcammer2535 i wondered why your well into 4th gear crossing the line. Sounds unreal.

@@SR-uy7cx 60' was a 1.58.

@@andrewcammer2535 look forward to seeing you in the 10s so close

Horsepower and quarter mile trap speed are definitely relatable, but they require context, such as weight, density altitude, rolling resistance, gearing, aerodynamics, etc. Put the same motor in a C6 Corvette at Cecil County in November on radials and it'll run way faster, put it in a 3/4 ton truck at Bandimere in August on bias plys and it'll be be slower. It's got another 50whp now, and it still doesn't drop any jaws in terms of trap speed. It's been right at 124mph - that's on bias plys now. Radials would pick up a bit. Ultimately, this car has a big parachute on it in the form of that factory GFX kits, and I'm sure that hurts the trap speed as well.

Super slow.

You can e-mail me at andrew@gwatneyperformance.com - be happy to help!

It has Johnson ST2116LSR link bar lifters, Comp XD-A pushrods, Comp BSR Max-Lift shaft rockers, and PSI1513ML springs. Intake is a hollow stem stainless steel valve, about 96g.