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I bought one of these last week. Today, I tried to jump start a dead Volvo. Absolutely NOTHING. This unit is trash

What ya cant be helpful enough to just show us where it is????

Thank you so much, I was having the same problem 😂. This video saved me from having to buy a new one.

Trash ! Ac unit is defective

Anyway you can show the chimney?

Mine started doing that too. It's not the compact version though.

Mine did the same thing, but I found that my pool sweep was on but upside down so I didn't see it moving around. So I didn't give it a second thought. I saw your video went back out and saw the little paddles moving. That is when I switched the valve back to the surface and it started heating. So keep in mind that sometimes depending on the plumbing the sweep plumbing bypasses the heater.

Duct tape. I was able to slide some duct tape in there when the lid was mostly open without it sticking. Then open the lid all the way, which pressed into the two objects that I had lodged in there. Flosser and tooth pocket brush. Had to do it twice and each item came out. Stuff has been stuck in there for years. I was excited to find this video and immediately concerned I may screw up something by taking all that apart. Duct tape to the rescue!

the shift cable pops off the shift linkage by hand so you can move the shift lever - no need to pull the shift cable bracket first. ;)

Yesterday, I tried to be a good Samaritan by helping a stranded classic car on the road. This item failed to Jumpstart the car. Now I'm wondering if it can actually help me at all if my battery fails.

I was having the same problem. I looked it up on TH-cam and your video came up. I had no idea that button was on the side. Thanks so much for posting this! 😊

Your a life saver! Used my air compressor. Now works like a charm.

Thanks for the informative video! I bought one today. Do I need to remove it from the box and charge it before I can use it or will it work straight out of the box?

Would have been nice to see how you remove old switch and replace with new one. Dur.

It can only produce 500A starting current. My CCA is 575A. I talked to Michelin, they said it should be fine for 6L gas engines and below. I have 4L and 3.5L. Bought it from Costco but haven't used it yet. If my calculation is right, if my battery is not completely dead and still has 2V+, this jump starter should work theoretically. What do you think?

Along as it tightens..it doesn't matter what o ring ya use. It's not going to leak. The real issue is why the lid is so hard to get off when ya need to fill it.

Wers link to part in amazon

I didnt have fan speed 4.I changed resistor pack and now i got fan speed 4 and lost fan speed 5. Anyone have any i ideas whats wrong?

What is the best way to clean off the threads of the chlorinator?

Hey did you figure out how to fix it? We are having the same issue

I found the mirror glass but not the back plastic back part.

Thanks, this showed me I wasn't going to break it prying them apart.

❤

Thanks man! I just used my air compressor and did what you suggested and cleaned everything out and boom it works now. Appreciate it!

Correction - igniter sparks - pilot light won’t light.

We have this model water heater in a boat we just bought. We are having a heck of a time getting it to light. We have followed the instructions to a T but still can’t get it to light (the pilot light is on). Would be so grateful for any tips or hints to getting it to light. Thank you so much!

You sound like John Candy.

I hope you saved the old board. The problem with your opener was most likely the dark solder joint on the pin coming from the P1 connector, or the power supply board where the pins for the P1 are soldered. Mine the light would go out and then the unit would not work. A couple whacks on the side, the light would come back on. I had same dark spot on the signal board. Resoldered and it worked for a couple days, then started doing it again. I pulled both boards out and found the bad solder on the backside of the power supply board on that pin. Has worked perfectly ever since. These boards are obsolete now. I found a used one and ordered, just to have one.

nice! so eazy

There could be two possible reasons. First, the thermostat is in the boot-up process [If the display LED blinks green:]. Second, the display doesn’t receive power, and its internal battery is drained [If the display LED blinks red:] For the first reason try resolving it by removing and reconnecting the display. If the issue persists, press and hold down the thermostat ring for 10 seconds to restart it. You did a pretty good job charging it for about an hour. If the issue still persists after charging it, installing a common wire will resolve this kind of issue. A common wire is helpful so that the thermostat will get direct power from your HVAC system.

thankyou for showing the bearing's marks. I was looking for that part

Jesus

Where the reset button for my right side axle

Straight to the point and perfectly explained. 👍🏽

Thanks for the tip it fixed my heater with the same issue

yup! that was it! Thanks for the info!

Dealer in my area charges 500$ for this what a rip off!!

I'm having an issue with my pro stance 36. Even on the highest setting it's cutting super low. Then if I mess with the adjuster and the lever at the same.time.it will eventually find a spot where it's ok to cut on. Not sure what's going on. ??? Any ideas?

What’s the name of that sensor ???????

Thank you for making these. I've been looking for visual assistance with the 5160 eval and their TMC current sense board hooked to a owon hds242 scope. This is my first time learning scopes. Mostly for this purpose of tuning my driver's for a vzbot printer. While I'm still learning how to properly use the scope, you've helped demystify some basics for me. Thank you!

I saw this and bought the Andeman 4000 thanks !!!

Thanks for posting the video I have the exact same car and same issue. My question is do I have to remove the remove the dash to replace the servo motor? I can see 2 screws hold the motor and they are exposed.

Well, I probably use my 4yr old noco more than 50 times a month. As a tow truck driver, I often need to keep something with more sustenance than that of which the audew seems to offer. I dont know anything about the audew, but the voltage drop is of higher percentage with the audew, it also seems like it loses its sustenance at a considerably faster rate than the noco. I dont doubt its performance for a regular vehicle owner to keep in the rare instance that it is needed. I almost want to buy an audew to do my own testing to see if it keeps jumping cars throughout the workday. Alas, my GB150 has surprised many mechanics and tow truck operators that swear "a jump pack wont start this car" 🙃 so ill just stick with the noco.

How do you open the case, the video shows it apart

Thank you!

Hahahaha stupid situation!!!😅 I thought mine was broken till I watch this video hahahaha thank you so much !!!

I love how nothjbg was shown. Very helpful

Very helpful thanks!

Worked like a charm!

I have a 1991 LX176 I bought new with the Kaw 420V engine also. Been diagnosing a issue with it and discovered this igniter part I have never really noticed before. I tested it with my meter and got a reading of 1.3k/ohms. about same as yours. However, mine will fire up and run fine. I have seen these test new on TH-cam above 10.0 k/ohms. Not sure why mine runs with the reading I got.