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It does, you’ll need the center mount under the chassis or you’ll need to make something to hold the center of the driveshaft.

@Mitsu Mo's Garage

I got the brakes from the junkyard off an old Mitsubishi Diamanté. You can source the calipers from Eclipse GSX or Diamanté.

Drag DR31 wheels 16x7 - 225/50R16 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires (really great dry tire that works in wet conditions very well). FYI the better tire would be 215/50 unless your ok with rolling and pulling the fender and Quarter panes lips, i think a 215/50 or 215/45 tire Would clear the body better. If you have Evo 3 front fenders I bet the 225/50/16 would clear and look sick.

What read end are you using? Evo 1/3 OE stuff? USDM Eclipse rear subframe swap? I used Evo 3 rear but I swapped the ring and pinion gear to an eclipse so I could use the USDM DSM trans and transfer case. The gearing is different from the evo. It’s a better choice then sourcing Evo stuff which can be pricey.

@@modicaUSMC thanks so much. I assumed they were 7 wide but I appreciate you responding. I’m going to try 225/50 drag radials first .. roll front/rear but keep the coilovers up a bit and adjust as necessary.

@@modicaUSMC all evo .. full swap (minus body panels)

Couple ways you can do it. You can replace the Mirage floor pan with an Evo one or just weld/bolt in a plate over the floor pan and use a fuel cell. There are bolt holes in the rear frame rails that you use to bolt up the rear end. You have to cut open the sheet metal to drop the bolts down into. Make sure to weld the bolts so they don’t spin. If your ok to use a fuel cell then just weld in a plate so sourcing parts is cheaper.

@@modicaUSMC ok great thanks bro.......loving your build by the way.....real inspiration

Is the lancer shell strong enough to manage evo power or will I need to streghten it?

Yeah I am sure any number of things may have happened. Sucks because it would have been an obvious rejection if of us had noticed. Oh well now, live and learn, i have lost more on costlier mistakes.

Well Jafromobile your brightened my day with the notification i had a nice find on a rare head. The tear drop was quite deep and i only made its transition and edge a little smoother. I ended up cleaning up the runners really nicely and will update in the next video. This was an uncut head and a buddy of mine and old time DSM enthusiast hooked me up. I have a lot more content and the cars running great on 30psi at the moment. Just laggy but i expect it. ill have some more content up soon.

JINIUS I have more content but I am slacking a little on uploads. I Am near the Tacoma area and there are a handful of peeps doing old Mitsu swaps. You on any Facebook pages? CSM performance? Evo123?

@@modicaUSMC I am not currently on FB but I will rejoin. My project is in auburn. If you'd be down to meet up sometime thatd be awesome. Or DM or phone call? It would be greatly appreciated. I will try to find and dm you on FB

Kristal Lopez short answer yes, as long as it’s a sedan. Coupe not so much but only minor modifications are needed. Finding the full OEM body kit will be difficult and expensive. Check Facebook for sale pages and ask for suggestions. There are reputable people on Facebook and other areas but be cautious and always use PayPal or a secure source.

@@modicaUSMC understude thank you for your response very apreciated.

BoostedCajun if you go to ExtremePsi website you can buy one new from a non ABS 1g or 2g Eclipse. I found a 4 wheel disk car in the junkyard that was non ABS. Brand new they are around $100 part number should be MB895931

Art Theseven thanks for the tips. I haven’t found a clean set of fenders yet and I have the Evo lower control arms but can’t seem to source ball joints to replace them. I also have Evo 3 HKS struts to utilize the Evo sway bar but I am using a mirage sway bar that mounts to the LCAs. I have the rear sway bar mounted but the rear mirage control arms don’t have the bolts for the sway bar so the rear is a little loose.

Fiction Supreme watch the other videos, I document the rest of the build up until driving. Hardest part was sourcing the parts for the Evo 3 and figuring out what parts to use with since I was using a DSM trans and TC with an E3 rear end and needed to match the final drives. Info is limited but the swap is fairly Easy with a basic welder and some harbor freight power tools.

Fiction Supreme the USDM chassis is basically the same as the JDM one and the rear frame rails need to be cut open to expose the JDM bolt holes for the rear end to bolt up. Nothing is truly difficult on the swap unless your using a DSM rear. I probably won’t AWD swap my 3G 1991 Mirage but if I do I’ll surely make a video.

Jafromobile I didn’t even touch the intake runners but I did clear the carbon and refine the finish smoother on the exhaust runners. I also got a decent polish on the head but don’t have any polishing compound so it stays as a 800grit polish. I thought the Felpro might seal better and was leaning that direction. I am out of the Marines and have no base access to get E85... closest station is an hour and a half but I may get a couple 5 gallon cans and fill em for race days. I can get 101 easy but it’s almost $10 Merry christmas to you as well @Jafromobile can’t wait to see more videos.

Gerardo Leonardo DSM 7 bolt with Evo 9 rods and pistons, ARP head studs, OEM HG

NoBluffBuff this one is a 62mm billet wheel and a T3 .82 A/R hotside. Once cams go in this winter and the head gets rebuilt it should be in the low 11’s

@@modicaUSMC Winter is right around the corner, too. That's a nice sized hot side! What rpm is the motor seeing..also, front or awd?

NoBluffBuff it’s been converted to AWD with Evo 3 rear end and DSM drivetrain. The engine is seeing around 8k and full boost at 5k but this is street tuned on ECMLink with STOCK cams. The head literally just dropped a rocker and caused the intake cam to jump several teeth and bend all the valves so.... head is getting fully built for spring time. Should be an easy 11s car here soon.

Jafromobile thanks man your practically my mentor haha. Between your videos I’ve been watching for 10+ years, the Chilton manual and DSMtuners that’s how I managed to know what I know now. I was babying it off the launch since it’s the first 900 miles on the build and I didn’t want to break it on first launch. It has an 11 in her. Next spring will confirm this and I’ll be gunning for high 10’s then. I was more aggressive on the second launch but missed 4th so I was slower. I think upping the rev limit on Anti-lag will help since I was only pushing 2psi.

Nefmamba it’s been running for months but I have been so busy I have not made any videos. I will try to get one soon.

darnel vennik I need to stop being lazy and upload the rest of my content.

Mitsu Mo's Garage keen to see the rest of the videos 🙁

Just _sollie_ I ended up using the mirage LCAs since I’m using the mirage sway bar. It’s just a stock replacement ball joint but they won’t fit in the Evo 3 arms.

I have heard 1g Eclipse DSMs might be interchangeable though. Something to look into

@@modicaUSMC thanks alot man. Will look into those 1g ball joints

AugustineOTC not sure about the 2g stuff as the rear subframes are pretty different. I think you’d be better off with an Evo rear. 1g DSM rears work as a friend is doing the swap now and has it nearly done. He had to weld in supports for the trailing arms and rear diff bracket. He also had to fabricate mounting points to hold the drive shaft. We both used fuel cells and external pumps but you may be able to use an Evo 1/3 tank with a 1g rear but I am far from positive.

@@modicaUSMC makes sense. Evo 1-3 frame rails should be a must too right?

AugustineOTC no the existing frame rails on the 4g sedans have the bolt holes to line up the Evo rear crossmember. You have to cut the upper floor open to expose the holes. Make sure you weld the bolt heads so they don’t spin while attaching the subframe. The existing trailing arm points work with the evo 1-3 trailing arms. You can get Megan racing rear suspension or use the existing I believe. I upgraded to full adjustable in the front and rear.

jarad pierce everywhere and anywhere. A lot of the Evo parts were sourced from the UK off of Facebook forums or scrapped by me off an Evo 3 I found in a Japanese junk yard. Parts have been sourced offline from eBay and ExtremePsi.com as well as other vendors.

@@modicaUSMC ok I'm trying to do the same conversion but finding it hard to source pieces btw I live in Barbados

jarad pierce find “ Mitsubishi EVO 1 2 3 parts and cars for sale” on Facebook. Message them and see if they ship out to you.

@@modicaUSMC ok kool thanks

andy lie I pulled the front bumper from an Evo 3 and a lot of other parts from an Evo 3 in Okinawa Japan. VIS might work but it’s probably just a little more expensive to source an OEM cover online and have better fitment.

@@modicaUSMC I see. Thank you for your reply. I thought you bought it from VIS Racing. The reason I asked is because I order the Evo 3 kit but I never get the parts for almost 2 months. I wonder if other people also experiencing the same problem. And it's a nice car you have there :)

andy lie thanks man! Yeah I’d call the company. I’m sure the kit is being made as there is likely not a high demand. The lower bumper spoiler is not factory but the rest of the body is OEM panels.

@@modicaUSMC Oh yeah, can you tell me what size is your wheel and the offset? I was thinking to buy wheels with size of 15x8 but I don't know what offset do I need. Thanks in advance

Supun Saranga subscribe my dude and see my other vehicles. I’ll have another video up shortly as I had to pull the engine again to diagnose an issue but should have her running soon.

Supun Saranga however it is very simple. I needed to cut a portion of the floor out to expose the rear subframe bolt holes mid way up the rear frame rails. Once a large enough hole was cut out I was able to hang the studs and mount the rear subframe. I welded the bolts to the frame rails so I could apply torque and will be welding then closed. I have a video showing this so check it out and let me know if you have any other questions

Supun Saranga you just made me realize I never uploaded the video. It’s up now

Simeon Thompson. I bought a 4g64 block that didn’t run right but was said to be built. Found it had the wrong crank (88mm over the 100mm). Traded the block and a DSM crank and some pistons that weren’t all that good for this 7 bolt fully assembled stock with all bolt ons. I was told the block was a JDM evo 1 but it didn’t matter to me. I rebuilt it and found evo casting numbers on the pistons so I guess it’s legit. The engine is just honed stock bore with Evo 8 pistons and rods, ACL bearings with ARP stuff paired to a partially built head. The 4g64 only had rods but they were Manly I beams. I had them machined to get a fresh circle and used them in my 91 mirage with Wiseco .020 over pistons.

simeonthompson94@gmail.com. Email me

Simeon Thompson just ask a question chief.