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Thanks Shaun, I hope to put this jig to good use making doors for the next bench. Thanks for the comment. Cheers

@PatrickLake-n1h Hi I like it but I have broken the plastic bed insert and the dust collector. Having said that its pretty accurate. I have a video of a mitre station I am building coming up if its of interest to you? What do you think of your saw?

@CazualHaze i found it very accurate out of the box, the trench cutting facility is very useful. I converted the dust extractor to fit my cheap lumber jack hoover and it's much better. I'm glad that I couldn't get the 305mm one anymore, because this one weighs a F@@@@@ ton!!. That's the only downside I have with it. Once again, beautiful build.

Yep agree with the sentiment, you know you've got hold of it!! Cheers

So nice of you. Thank you.

That is a lot of money. Fair play they can charge that price but it’s so far out of the hobbyist world it’s Un achievable.

Thanks Malcolm, Now you put it like that it does sound terrible!! Truth is I had a good rummage in the settings and came to ground on 12. My ceiling is 200 mm lower than standard and the bench is 150mm higher than the norm so light is an inverse square law ( so I am told by an old TV lighting director) that helps with the levels. Yep each panel has its own psu you can see one hanging when I test the panels. Truth is I lost the footage poking around today I found it sadly too late to drop in. They run very hot so I think they will fail in the summer, I can replace them with a dc supply housed inside the shop when that happens. I have already tested them I need 36v @ 400w and I am good to go. Cheers

Thanks Shaun, My old shop used Flory tubes I was always worried they could strobe with the lathe but it was never a problem! Scored yourself a couple of useful things from the shop. Cheers

Oh how I wish I was that good! I think I could cnc one but the teeth would need a special cutter they don’t look like a typical gear tooth. I really hope it does not break as I don’t fancy a revisit! Thanks for the comment. Cheers

Thanks Adam the epoxy is pretty amazing stuff I got most of the holes out. It’s part of my damp course so I’m hoping I don’t get water seeping through ( so far so good)! Cheers

Hi @wilkbilt I thought of that but could not figure out how to it’s a complicated little thing Cheers

Thanks! 👍 appreciated

Hi @viteota good question its a common thing I found on all the commercial units I found. My guess is its because the spindle has a lot of mass ( the rotor etc) and would not follow the cut as easily as a separate lightweight bearing. Cheers

@oldestnerd well done making a cnc from an Arduino that's no mean feat! yeo the foil layer is a pretty good antennae. It had not occurred t me to use an opto isolator I am going to try lowering the impedance and hopefully drowning the noise first as its simpler ( I dont have an opto isolator at hand). If that does not work I will give this a try. Cheers

Hi @xenusceptic yep it is overcomplicated and I have not yet added the spoil board. I cant see how a limit switch would work for this. I've had problems where the tool vibrated lower in its collet then cuts into the ally base also the controller has had a paddy now and then and plunged straight into the bed. Cheers

@@CazualHaze the idea of the spoil board is to protect the machines bed I use 18 mm mdf boards not fixed down so they can be replaced when needed and zero the tool path from the top surface of the work piece When I made my first cnc machine I was paranoid about the bit driving into the bed but in reality it’s not a problem, I fitted a bottom limit switch to my a axis but it wasn’t needed when I rebuilt my cnc I removed it as it’s not required

@@xenusceptic you have had better luck than me I have certainly had issues with tools walking out and even the rich auto cnc controller going off on one and plunging into the bed. I do have a set of 12mm mdf spoil boards that I have not yet fitted, time is pressing as usual. Cheers

Hi @philshel1 Yes I have had a tool cut all the way through the old ally bed. I've had problems where the tool vibrated lower in its collet then cuts into the ally base also the controller has had a paddy now and then and plunged straight into the bed. I do use the spoil board as the base level (not yet added the spoil board to this). This is an attempt to save expensive tools more than the bed. Cheers

Hi @fallerd Shop light video coming up I am a little out of sequence with these at the moment. As always I am making it overcomplicated! I dont have plans for aircon or heating at the moment, so far its been ok in the shop temperature wise. There is a fair chunk of insulation in it, I hope the temp is quite even throughout the year when I get the lathe and mill installed stable temp does help. Cheers

HI @stephengrattage5219 The Arduino has been powered by the usb on my laptop so noise on the supply has not been an issue. I have a dc to dc converter that takes the machines 24v rail and turns it to 5v for the Arduino it looks well protected there are caps and a coil on board, time will tell! Cheers

This would have been my suggestion too 👍

@@mickwilson127 Shielding the lead to the aluminium foil wont he'lp unless the aluminium foil is also shielded. A grounded shield plate under but insulated from the aluminium foil may help particularly if the source is underneath the plate. This will reduce capacitive coupling from such a source to the large area of aluminium foil. High frequency pickup can be reduced by low pass filtering followed by a Schmidt trigger input..

Hi @dingolovethrob Great idea I love the fact you can ask people for advice and stuff like this comes back Cheers! I will give this a crack and if it does not solve the problem then I'll try an opto isolator. Cheers Again.

I totally agree but a water quench should have changed it enough to say it can be hardened. It’s disappointing to make such a good tool at a reasonable price and not have hardened guides. Thanks. For the comment I will give it a go and if it can be hardened I’ll let everyone know. Cheers

Thanks 👍 have a good one!

Yep a bistable would be a good idea however I have a few arduinos kicking around so have tried one. So far testing the code works but have not yet put in on the router. Should be interesting to see how it works. Thanks for the comment cheers

Thanks Dave, I have got an arduino to do the heavy lifting the code is written just need to try it out in the real world. Yep the shop has been fully cat scanned with a sniff of approval. Cheers

Cheers

@fredmercury1314 thanks for the comment yes that is what should happen. I think it might be good to change the vfd to one with an external brake resistor that could then stop the spindle and possibly save the cutter after all they are pretty expensive. More to come on this in the next video I hope. Cheers

@brucegriffiths8861 thanks Bruce that is exactly what I was thinking of doing however being a lazy bugger I have bought an arduino. I know that’s complete overkill but there is a little sense in it. When you crash the tool and it all goes into estop the axis are frozen so the only way to clear the fault is to turn off and move the axis by hand. An arduino lets me have a reset button to hold off the estop temporarily. It also allows me to add more functions in the future. I hope this makes sense and thanks for the comment cheers.

@@CazualHaze You still have the short pulse detection issue with an arduino unless there's built in hardware to either stretch or latch on a short input pulse.. An FPGA would be more flexible but there's a steep associated learning curve and you need to devise suitable protection from 12V inputs and a suitable (discrete?) high voltage (>12V) open collector or open drain output device.

Thanks Bruce I agree with you I think the code will only be thirty odd lines long so it should cycle through damn fast with an 16M clock and 4M per instruction. Not done the maths yet. I could also use the interrupt function so it’s effectively just the interrupt service routine that will slow it down. I will connect the bed isolated plane to the 5v from the arduino so should not need much protection ( possibly a 5.6v zener) to protect against spikes. It did also occur to me to use a potential divider with say five to one ratio and connect it to the analog pin so I could detect a spike or a short and put into e stop. What do you think? Cheers

Thanks for coming cheers

Hi @YourNowOnTV yes you could do that perhaps the dust shoe could have metal bristles that could work very well. Great comment cheers.

@philshel1 the inserts are indeed quite shallow. I did not want them penetrating the board to stop chips falling through. There was not time on this video but I have some mdf to use as a spoil board which is easy to surface and cheap to replace. Cheers

That’s interesting I have had a look at planet CNC’s website and can’t find any information about it. Sounds like a really great idea. I hope to revisit this project I have some ideas I would like to try out. I am tied up with my new workshop probably until the new year. Cheers

@@CazualHaze yeah you have to turn the probe 180* one time and it figures out how off center the probe is too. It’s a great controller software. Gantry squaring, a lot of probe scripts, tool wear compensation, backlash compensation etc.

I’ll take a closer look at it I need a new controller for my old laser cutter Cheers

Hi yep it’s a 6090 all now works well the bed upgrade is coming along well. No plans to upgrade but I will with my laser cutter when I get that far. I had looked at Masso but it’s quite expensive. I think uccnc is probably best bang for buck! Cheers

Thanks 👍

Cheers Shaun

Cheers

Good point I haven’t thought about that. Being a lazy bugger I know what will happen. It will get left until it’s so full of dirt that it fails then I’ll clean it out and fix it!

Adding a proper filter behind the mesh (that one will only catch small birds and the like) to keep dust out of the cabinet might not be a bad idea. At least it will extend the time to fill it up. 😅

@@andli461 yes, but having negavite pressure in the cabinet, will draw dust and stuff in every opening, so unless the cabinet is airtight, it will draw dust

⁠​⁠​⁠Absolutely agree 100%. Stopping what can be stopped from entering, i.e. fine dust, can’t be a bad thing and as you mention filters your self, I think we are on the same page here. My main concern was that the wire mesh will be rather useless for anything smaller then a kolibri. 😅

Hi Mike I did all the design, you don’t need to have full drawings but you may need to comply with building regs that’s where the fun starts. That entails a heap of maths to show it won’t fall down. It’s best to ring your planning department and have a chat! A garage may well be within permitted development and or replacement so you may be good to do whatever you need. Good luck with your project. Cheers

Tough question I am considering the same question as you. I hope to do some work on my house, wood is cheaper no bricklayer needed but won’t last as long as brick! I six months when I’ve finished with the architect I could let you know! Cheers

@@CazualHaze thank you for the response, my first time doing any building style work and wanting to keep it as simple, safe and effective as possible, first time buyer and really into working on my cars so want a nice tidy space for that exactly!

@@billysmith5168 Good luck you should get a garage in 30m2!

Thanks 👍

Hi Matt, checked today there is an internal brake resistor no terminals for an external one. Still thinking over the filter I have a sheet of mesh used for microphones but cannot find it anywhere. Cheers

Cheers keep watching I think I can do better!

Glad you enjoyed!

Cool, thanks!

@cherhanamiya1 that's a thought I still have them ill do my best at giving it a go. Cheers

Hi Did you manage to make a Video about trying to Harden the Original Collet/sleeves? I'm on fire ti see if you created the video n also to find out the results prior to buying one of these particular Pocket hoke jig, as I've not got a lathe, to make new collects unlike yourself. Best Regards

@@cherhanamiya1 Hi not made video as yet tied up with another video at the moment. I will get there bear with me, my gut feeling though is they wont harden. Cheers

Video on its way!

Thanks I did but but my um, err, oh, memory that's it gets stuck! Cheers

Hi Tom, No plans as such just a bunch of calculations. Apparently you don’t need full drawings for this just calculations to show it’s up to building regulations. Look at the comments I put a list of the spreadsheets etc together for someone else that may help you. I would suggest you speak to your planning department they will help you. Cheers

Thanks for this I had no idea that’s the power of the internet. The new bushes are holding up well I do think the drills are a little bit crap so I will keep an eye out for the fluteless version. Cheers

Cheers thanks for the comment. I have to say Canada is such a beautiful country I have been a couple of times and Vancouver is one of my favourite cities. You have a lovely country!

I paid around £40 for this I think around half the price of a “good make”. Cheers

@@CazualHaze thanks for the info!! Hope you have a good weekend, take care

Thanks, you too!

Good question! I don’t know but guessed it’s for different widths of woods Cheers

@@CazualHaze oh yeah, never thought of that! Seeing you drill three holes made me think it was for three holes only.