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What filament do you recommand that can support multiple vacuumforming in chain ?

Thanks for this. A simple cost effective solution.

awesome project. I bet you can utilize home assistant to control the heater entirely. There is a bambu lab integration to get the chamber temperature, and weather or not it is printing. Use that to control a zwave outlet to control the heater.

Did I miss the part of what your chamber temps were before the modifications?

It would be nice to actually get a response from email

What air filter is that one?

i think i will do something like this too

Dude this is sick!

Awesome mod thank you. I installed this a month ago and had great success printing asa that I was struggling with previously. Also what filter do you have installed in yours?

Bro you read my mind! I had a similar idea, thanks for confirming!

Great idea. What I do wonder though is how the internal components will behave long term. I can imagine the X1E has either components rated for a hight ambient temp. or are insulated appropriately ..

worried about heat creep? hotend jamming?

It would be interesting if the printer's firmware was in control of the heater. Maybe something that could be achieved with X1Plus 🤔

Files?!?

Heyas! thanks for the video. So is this thing still operational? It wasn't really made to be sitting in a hot chamber.

So based on your discovery I purchased the same heater for my X1C. For safety reasons, my printer has been added to my air duct system to vent the case to atmosphere actively. Because of this I'm inevitably going to be drawing cool air in through the gaps in the gas and housing since it's at a constant negative pressure. Do you think this heater will be sufficient enough to keep up with using a vent system? I should know in a few weeks once I get it installed, just curious your thoughts.

woww

Do you recall the depth you used for the logo on the updated version? I am working on some parts and using their technical specs is far too deep for what I am hoping to achieve. Also curious if you've printed any parts in 1mm and how those may have come out.

Im late to the party, but the temperature sensor is located on the button board on the upper right hand of the chamber. The button board has an emergency stop button and a sleep button to turn off the screen. That might be why there is about a 10c difference. It seems like an odd placement of the chamber sensor. I really do like your chamber heater. It’s very straightforward.

Great idea!

HINT: To remove that glue, it is PRETTY simple. You shall just use like sunflower oil, or something similar. Rub the part in with the oil (those remains you want to get rid of), let it soak for like 2-5 min, and then use a thin scraper made of hard plastic and scrape it off, or you can use your finger nails.

I believe the chamber temp sensor is above the glass door attached to the plastic housing above it.

My only gripe about my X1C, and it's now about to be fixed because of this. $41 total for me due to sales, and I already have a smart plug. woohoo! Polycarbonate has been my arch nemesis so far,

Super intersting to see a resin printer making functional parts not just miniature figures as most videos here seem to depict.

Pretty cool! With larger parts I have found the plates to show themselves a bit thin and bend upwards, (lifting away from the magnetic surface of the bed); I'll be curious to implement this upgrade and compare results. Also, the Doubble sided smooth PEI plates are a bit thicker and make a big difference in this kind of situations.

I was thinking of doing a vacuum chamber version of this , lower temps involved and IPA will still evaporate just need to reclaim it from the pumps outlet

你不弄胶肯定

I installed this and then started getting heat creep super bad on my abs prints when the chamber was at 60c. Do you use a different nozzle than stock? Seems like the stock nozzle and fan isn’t sufficient to cool the hotend when the chamber temp is this high. Several failed prints an hour in and then completely back to normal when I ran without the heater. Any chance you’ve run into this? I also insulated the chamber so the heater might be overkill for abs anyways, maybe heat creep is less of an issue with nylon? Plan on printing a lot of nylon as well so either I’m happy I did the upgrade if I can figure out this issue. Thanks !

Awesome for making and sharing this knowledge! Can't thank you enough!

Cool, but after some time in the atmosphere you are going to get down to 91% and stay there since you can't distill past 91% without a vacuum. Or does the machine vacuum distil?

Just thinking about doing it myself. How good is it?

muchas gracias desde argentina, estube buscando algo confiable desde hace tiempo, si bien el costo es elevado, es una solución ideal al problema del IPA

I think this is a stupid question but will just waiting for the material to melt and just using gravity to get it out work?

Very cool to see how this can be done professionally and cleanly.

Thanks for this. Good research for us as we prepare to disassemble and clean our unit. Design issues all around that these spills are so common and so CATASTROPHIC.

Does it impact auto bed levelling on Bambu? presumably the height one the printed areas is higher?

Bambu Studio now allows you to add textures and SVGs in the slicer the same way Prusa Slicer does 🔥💪 You can see how to do it in the release notes here: wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-1-10-0

How do you remove the tube? Mine seems real stuck, so I need to unscrew something?

6 months later... is there an update on longevity or any component wear? I just bought it all to do PC-ABS but I would like to know how your machine handles it long term

So to summarize this for the home hobbiest you CAN reuse your ipa after letting it settle and decanting the top layer off. If you further run it through a filter of some sort you will remove more of the dissolved resin portions but it is dependent on the formula of your resin and statistical chance. Distilling is the best way with a home distiller that has a temperature controller but that has safety concerns and you will not get it above roughly 80% IPA. Either way eventually your IPA will become so saturated that you will have to dispose and use new "fresh" IPA but there is really no way for the home hobbiest to know the saturation level other than the solvents effectivness at cleaning a part.

What does the inkbird C206T do in this loop? Does it turn on and off the heater to maintain set temperature?

This is a 50W heater were a Qidi 1 pro uses a 300W unit. Not sure it will be enought to be efficient.

Awesome mod! Thank you so much for posting a video. I've been wanting to put some sort of chamber heater into my P1S for a while and the heater and Inkbird just arrived today. Have you had any thermal issues with the electronics in the long term? I'm a bit leary about mounting the heater just on the other side of the back wall from the mainboard. Also curious about what some of the longest print times you've run with the heater on?

i am looking to do the same, except it will be outdoor ! I ve seen photo of the axio fan inside the tent, is it possible to make it work like that ?

No modification in oven?

Great information. I just ordered the heater and controller. Already happen to have a stack of the kasa plugs. Just tried ASA for the first time and I am at a 100% failure rate and I have been told by others that got the Layerzerodesign heater that they went from 100% failure to almost 100% success by chamber heating. This option is 1/4 the cost and from what I have heard regarding delivery times of orders of those other units, about 15 days faster to get a hold of so very happy to come across your video. Thanks!!!

You might want to put something on the bottom edge of the back panel to resist chafing the cables.

"everything out" where are the fumes going through that hole on the wall?

I use Onyx from markforged. On my P1S is going relly nice and also big parts. no need to make upgrades

Great quality check