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Hi. Yes, very simple to install. No, they are not off-grid. They do not operate without the grid being present. That would be a safety hazard, since there is no transfer switch in a microinverter.

I love them! I've had my own installed and they work way better than Enphase. I've sold nearly 300 of them and there are no failures and 100% happy customers. They work great and are the easiest to install. What more can I say. The price on my web store is the lowest it's ever been. Enjoy!

I haven't tested it, but it should work if you pre-charge it before connecting the battery.

​@@ToddDesiato Thanks for the quick reply! I've read many comments in the meantime and some say that a 48 V 50 A capable battery would likely 'fry the inverter'. Is this something to worry about? When I chose micro-inverters for my PV setup, I made sure they wouldn't cap the max. power output of the solar panels. So based on that I know a micro-inverter will probably limit the current inflow from a battery by design, but naturally I'm looking for safety first. On a side note: I like the modular concept of micro-inverters, for one you don't have a single point of failure and it's better scalable. In the Netherlands there is a company called HomeWizard who have picked up on this principle in the context of battery storage and they're actually launching their _Plug-In Battery_ which is basically a cost-effective AC-coupled design: www.homewizard.com/nl/plug-in-battery/ This 2.7 kWh battery storage unit can be plugged into any normal wall socket and will charge/discharge at 800 W max. which is within European regulations. People will be able to use more than one of these and then 'software unlock' the batteries to effectively operate in parallel (so 2 batteries at 1600 W charge/discharge and 5.4 kWh energy capacity etc.). For sure they're using a micro-inverter in this device, the big question is what they've done to make it battery-compatible, if anything.

It depends on what type of service and meter panel are installed at your home, and depends on the size of the system to be installed. There are many options available. We usually work all that out as we do the permit plan set. It is typically required to hire an electrician to connect the solar to your main service panel. That part is not DIY unless you're qualified to do that kind of work.

@@ToddDesiato understood, that makes sense!

Look at some of the earlier videos where I tried this. Yes, it works but the dc to dc converter is unstable. The frequency varies all over the place due to the 120Hz ripple current pulled by the inverter. The HMS-500-1T-NA can connect directly to the battery and you use a DTU, and a meter with RS485 to control the output.

i tried and it doesn't work well with hoymiles hms 2000, as a side effect - sometimes the connection with DTU disappears. DC-DC was not the cheapest. i stopped experimenting but it works, best - about 55V for me.

@@ruslanwel Did you use the resistor in your circuit?

@@deyumei7965 no, I turned it on on the input side (24V), I think the output current had delay, also the DC-DC converter has output capacitors

​@@ruslanwelwhat issue did you have when using the DC-DC converter？I am thinking about the same setup but I am going to use it daily It seems like drawing power from the battery will make it run at its maximum output continuously and it's not designed for that. Do you have any tips or suggestions ？Thanks

The only ones disappointed are the ones who want independent monitoring. It is possible, we have a solution for that. However, I've got 100% happy customers who have purchased the HMS-2000. It is a good, reliable inverter that never fails to produce power.

Hi Ben, I have the cables in stock at themicroinverterstore.com. Hoymiles warranty is contingent upon using their cable.

@@DiySolarHelpDesk Thank you for all I learned today watching you add the Hoymiles. I just ordered the trunk from you. I was going to express ship but there was not an option. I look forward to receiving it soon. Thanks again for getting back to me so fast. I will order my additional inverters and stuff from you after I set this up and play with it. I want to order the White wireless gadget as well to monitor my set up and will do that. John in Fallbrook

Code requires a disconnect switch, then into the panel. Make sure the breaker in your panel is positioned correctly for the 120% rule.

@@ToddDesiato Cheers mate, yeah, I intend a disconnect, question was more about skipping the AC trunk and just snipping the cable coming directly out of the micro inverter, guessing it's not got anything smart in there i'd be deleting. I'm off grid, though it's good to plan incase I ever, I should be only using 16amp, probably 30% less in reality.

@@EastyUK The only issue is it would void the warranty.

This one cannot, because it will exceed the Isc rating of the 350W inverter MPPT inputs. However, the HMS-500, 1000, and 2000, can run directly from a 48-56 Vdc battery. The limit is 25A. It's just not covered by the warranty if it fails.

​@@ToddDesiato Hello Todd, I recently came across a discussion online about the Enphase microinverter and its resistance fault check during startup, which requires detecting a certain resistance to function correctly, potentially preventing it from operating if the power comes directly from a battery. Do you think the HMS microinverter doesn't have that resistance fault check and that's why it worked? I am trying to set up a circuit like this to off-set my peak hour use during afternoon, do you think it will work in long terms? Thanks!

@@ToddDesiato How about the APsystems EZ1-M/H?

I didn't use the bagged pea gravel. I used #56 crushed stone, about 1 cu-yd for the first 4. Then another 2 cu-yd for the next 8, and I used CMU half-blocks for the last 4. The half-blocks installed much faster, were easier to move, and resulted in a much faster installation.

As long as the Voc is <55 Vdc, and the voltage is greater than 22V, they are compatible. For the HMS-2000-4T-NA, they range from 320W - 670W solar panels. Ideally, 450W-550W.

@@ToddDesiato Thank you for your answer. Finally, i selected LONGI 550W Tier1 solar panels. Will be installed soon

@@BlueThailand They would work well with the HMS-2000!

Net yet, waiting on wire and the utility shutdown so I can update my main breaker and solar breaker to accommodate a 60A circuit breaker and comply with the 120% rule.

When will you do the full evaluation?

Yes, as long as the AC and DC is within range, they work.

Yesterday, I saw them output 515W for a time long enough to capture one data point in the 15-minute interval data. At that time, the sun was refracting and reflecting through the clouds providing irradiance greater than 1000W/m^2. Nice!

It would make the BMS run hot, but it will work I think. I don't have one to try it.

@@ToddDesiato The BMS could be oversized and run it only i.e. at 50% rate to keep it cool(er).

@@KenSentMe- With that configuration, you would need a BMS for each microinverter. I just need a couple of resistors and a MOSFET. I have boards designed, but now I have Hoymiles Hybrid inverters HYS series on order. I don't need this anymore.

Did you open it up and push the 2 modules back into place? They get unplugged from the board during shipping. You simply push them to the right and they will snap back in and it should work. The bracket that holds them is too thin and bends when dropped in shipping, allowing the two charger modules to come loose from their edge connectors.

@@ToddDesiato Yes I did.

I didn't open up the unit, but I checked to make sure that the two power supplies are in. I wasn't sure if opening it up voided a warranty or anything.

@@awesomedee5421 I've never seen one fail after shipping. Usually, it's just a lose connection. Ask if you can open it up, or send it back for an exchange. It's a good unit. Mine worked great once I seated the module properly.

@@ToddDesiato I've seen one. I already tried wiggling the wires and also tried eating the two power supplies. One did seem to be slitly out, but I pushed both in as best I could tell. I didn't want to open the unit until I got an ok from the company in writing since they seem to be blaming me for the problem and that I've done something wrong. My unit doesnt work, and the some staff doesn't seem to have a clue. Now I'm told by Signature Solar staff that I can't charge a 57V battery with a 48V charger. They seem clueless what the problem is and what is going on and it's very annoying.

Yes, it is split-phase, 120/240V output.

Super. Will it also control what rate / how much energy is put back on the grid.

@@anilgarg57 Yes, you can program a lot of things.

So can it service 5k from battery and say 4k from grid. Total 9k?

@@anilgarg57 No, it can output 5kW continuously regardless of the source. There is an 8kW model and a 10kW model if you need more than that.

It did require a building permit, but in some jurisdictions, it is not required because it is less than 28" above grade. You need to check with your local AHJ. The cable is type TC-ER, which is rated for sunlight exposure, exposed runs, and direct burial. Conduits are not required. Each branch circuit is protected by a 30A breaker, and the cables contain a protective ground wire. It's the best solution for DIY and saves a lot of time and $$$.

It does not operate off-grid. It will run in parallel with an off-grid inverter that is listed to UL1741SA or SB, and has IEEE 1547 2008 or later.

@@ToddDesiato Thanks. I was thinking to activate the microinverter, I can fake the grid by using a pure sine ware inverter higher than my load requirement.

@@a.mirmousavizadegan7962 Yes, but that pure sine wave inverter must be rated for this or it will blow up. Which means, it must have UL1741 SA or SB, and must be 1547 2008 or later. Otherwise, that inverter will go bang!

Using a WattNode meter to monitor the input power from the grid, it communicates with the Hoymiles DTU-Pro and throttles the inverters to avoid export.

Thanks for the info

At 10-deg tilt it's not bad. This system is rated for up to 115 mph winds! The maximum historical wind speed recorded in this area is 92 mph.

Great question. Yes, very much so. For the metal ones, the array must be perfectly flat all the way across. The PowerRacks can be used on bumpy terrain. Also, the tilt of the PowerRacks being 25 degrees makes an enormous difference in morning and evening production. Hundreds of more Wh are gained at 25 deg tilt. The only think I don't like about the PowerRacks is that they only work for panels up to 1050mm wide, ~41", and most of the newer panels are much wider than that. Powerfield has a new rack coming out in Q4.

@@ToddDesiato Most appreciated. Glad to hear they are coming out with a size that fit new panels out today. I am visualizing them in my backyard. 😎

Great question! They work straight from the box. As close to a Plug-n-Play solution as there can be. The Data Transfer Unit (DTU) for monitoring is optional, and only around $300. If you want to discuss more and create a plan, I'm available daily at (877) 58-SOLAR. Thank you.

@@DiySolarHelpDesk That's great many thanks for that information ,that i couldn't get anywhere .I'm living in the UK so i guess i'll have to take a look at seller here ,so far only found Germany .

Did you look at the peak current with an oscilloscope, or are you just measuring the average DC current? The waveform is not flat DC. It is a 120Hz Rectified sinewave. At low input impedance (no MOSFET or resistor) the peak current is 2X higher than the average current, and exceeds the MAX input current spec. The microinverters rely on the resistance of the panels to smooth out this 120Hz ripple into a much lower amplitude sinewave, oscillating about the average current. While it does work, and I have shown that it does, the peak current, temperature, and longevity are expected to be much better when the impedance is higher. I use the MOSFET in the linear range to create an Isc equivalent to a solar panel, so that it is not zero-impedance.

@@DiySolarHelpDesk Are you sure you are not measuring RMS x 1.41 current? To smooth out 60hz voltage ripple down to 0.5V at 8A on DC side, a microinveter would need 133000 uF cap. Obviously that's too large to fit inside the micro, so 120hz current ripple is passed on to the input. C = I / (2 x f x Vpp)

I'm using the Hoymiles, HM-350NT, and the WattNode meter. I have them in stock at ncsolarelectric.square.site. Call me if you need them. (877) 58-SOLAR.