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@@callumvaughan5947 Hi thank you .In the past have only used cylinders with built in buffer. On this job they specified volumiser and LLH . I decided to add 25ltr buffer . Last time I was there it seemed to be working well . Am away at the moment so when I get back will check. And probably take your advise. Thank you .

@ I get you’re just following a design, unfortunately half the designs I get given these days aren’t even remotely correct or efficient, it’s hard to find a good designer

@@samkenvin69 hi yes you are right ordinarily I would just use the buffer a LLH but in this instance the builder supplied LLH and no buffer I felt that LLH that he provided did not have enough volume so I fitted buffer. It works well . Notice there is also an in line volumiser on the return of the primary’s to the cylinder , this also adds more volume. Thank you

@@bornnieqc9117 hi no followed the design pretty much. But fitted a 25 ltr instead of 20 volumiser was in design It works well thank you

Hi no issues with cold weather , Although a few week ago we had - 5 and a fault code F 7 came up I tried to ring tec. help line but not much help so I took the initiative and removed the top cover of out door unit and all I could see was that the bottom tray was full of ice . something had stopped the condense from running away . I cleared it and left it for half an hour and it has been ok ever since . . The noise level of the out door unit is for the most part quiet just the sound of fanned air. every now and then it goes into defrost mode and there is a bit of noise and it is not for long I certainly can't hear it in the house . Thank you . Good luck. 👍

@HEATSEEKER1428 thanks very much for this 👍

Hi wow you have been very busy sounds like a great install. Regarding the remote control I know what you are talking about as I had noticed the difference with the actual control and the diagram in the instructions. I assumed that electric have just used the same installation manual for all of the mini splits they "produce " and that for the product that I have it is different. Regarding working out the COP . I assume If the unit is designed to out put 12,000 Btu's then it does this all of the time it is running , Regarding the noise of the out door unit I know what you mean I think the noise changes from time to time and I have noticed quite a lot noise when in defrost mode but in general noise from the out door unit no louder that say the fan on condensing boiler . Thank you and good luck 👍

Hi obviously there is a bit of sound from the indoor unit but not that you notice it. The only way that I can explain the "noise " just of air blowing . There is no mechanical sound. when the unit Starts up there is and initial rush of air but that only lasts a couple of seconds. If the fan has several settings. and if you are going to use the mini split mainly for heating then it is recommended to have the fan on the lowest speed. We do not notice the sound . If you need to hear the sound of one there are plenty of shops and offices that have them installed.Most of the time when I want to check if the unit is running I have to go up to it to check the air flow. If you do go ahead and fit one . it will not be disappointed Particularly if you currently have storage heaters . Thank you and Good luck 👍

Hi Regarding the cost effectiveness of an air to air heat pump I think you would not be disappointed . although electricity is more expensive per kWh the air to air heat pump can have a C.O.P of 4 . Plus . heat pump use is different to conventional gas central heating system . With air to air heat pump there is not requirement to have it come on when not needed . as heat is almost instant . The 2 No. heat pumps that I have fitted have made a vast difference to our energy cost and comfort levels . and no doubt our carbon foot print. Thank you and good luck.👍👍

Hi unfortunately I don't have the the pressures . You must follow manufacturers instructions but I would say if your indoor unit and your out door unit are running and you have the correct mode selected and your filter in the indoor unit is clean then you have very low refrigerant levels . if this is the case then I would check for possible leaks , Using either a vacuum pump or air pump of some description . Obviously not R290 . Thank you and good luck 👍

The out door unit is pre charged with the correct amount of R 290 . All you have to do is connect pipe set to both the indoor unit and outside unit .Ensure there are no leaks and then just open the valves on the out door unit . Thank you. and good luck .👍

Hi I totally agree. Thank you and Good luck 👍

@@AndyH-o7q Hi you will not be disappointed good luck . 👍

Hey how are you finding it so far?

@@thomasd2796 It performs pretty much as expected. As stated above I currently only use it with off-peak electricity to stop the house cooling too much overnight. This is reducing the time I have to use my oil central heating, it will be interesting to see by how much after a seasons heating, but certainly some days I’m getting away without using the CH (I also have a log burner and fairly well insulated house). 3 hours overnight will use on average 2 kWh so on my IOG tariff this is 15p. If I had batteries/PV then I would use it more. In the main it is quiet although it can be a little louder (just fan noise) at start up and when temperatures dip below freezing. I will most likely not use it when minus temps are forecast as the external unit sits outside my bedroom and I live in a rural area so I am sensitive to noise.

Hi I am about list video on how the mini split has performed over a whole year.. If you are interested . Thank you 👍

@@alanbratton8357 Thank you for your feed back. Good luck.

Thank you and Good Luck 👍

Thank you for the tip .I will check it out ,👍

Replying to myself as Heat Seeker seems to be seeking heat elsewhere🤔 But short answer to my question is 'no', for too many reasons to list here, especially as it would seem very very few would read it anyway,, and even fewer would be interested ;-)

Hi I think there is no reason for heating the indoor unit could not be mount on the dwarf wall of you conservatory . As long as there is enough air around it. Electriq set a unit that is low level . it's a bit more expensive but it might suite your requirements Thank you and good luck👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Thanks for your reply. I did look at the low down unit Electriq make but it was slightly too high to fit on my wall and it would of meant cutting in to the window ledge, plus the noise it would make having all components inside. Thanks for making these videos - it has given me the confidence to give this a go.

Hi You might be able to get away with just using the "tails " from the indoor unit . depending on your wall thickness you might be lucky . The unit is supplied with the extension pipes any way . I can under stand if you are trying to avoid a coil of pipe behind your out door unit. Have you considered just extending the pipe to your needs and creating your own flared joint ?. The tools for flaring the pipe are reasonably cheap on the net. It sounds as if any joints will be outside the property , If within the property any joints will have be brazed or soldered with the appropriate materials . Regarding the vacuuming down of the pipe set ,the manufactures instructing explain how to commission with or with out a vacuum pump . I will try to send you a link to the type of flare tool that I use . Good luck 👍

amzn.eu/d/3R3apiy This tool is really easy to use. and when you are done if you don't want to keep it you can always sell on internet👍

Hi this is the kit that I got from amazon it has every thing you need .BACOENG 3CFM Vacuum Pump & Manifold Gauge Set - HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit - Diagnostic R12 R134A R410A R407C- 3 Pin UK Plug. Thank you and good luck 👍

Hi Please check regs ext.regarding electrics in bathrooms . Unfortunately the condense pipe cannot rise from the unit it must have a fall all the way. There are pumps available that will allow you to over come your potential problem . Good Luck 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 thanks a lot! Sorry, I ment in the bedroom on the en-suite wall not actually in the en suite. I fort that with the pipe but fort is best check! Thanks a lot for reply.

Hi Appiances direct sell both types the if you are not F-gas registered and you want to fit your own mini split the model numbers are for the 9,00 BTU eiQ-9WMINV-V4 and for the 12,000 BTU eiQ-12WMINV-V4 . I hope this is helpful and good luck .👍

Hi try this. Home Air Conditioning Air Conditioners ElectriQ EIQ-12WMINV electriQ Easy-Fit 12000 BTU A++ WiFi Smart Wall-Mounted Split Air Conditioner with Heat Pump and 4.5-Meter Pipe Kit Compare SKU: eIQ-12WMINV Quickfind Code: 865335

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Hey i have the unit i was under the impression i would not have to vac the lines just connect and go (I appreciate you did in your video) but the instructions clearly call for the line to be vacuumed!! So i guess i need a vac kit now too!

@@jaykilby458 Hi The instructions give both options with or without vacuuming down the pipe set . Thank you and good luck 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 i found the issue i ordered an IQ Cool Plus not an electriq Easy Fit!!

Hi thank you for your comments. Although I do vaccum down the pipe set in my installation . Manufacturers instructions (electriQ Easy-Fit 9000 BTU A++ WiFi Smart Wall-Mounted Split Air Conditioner ) says alternative methods can be used. Regarding the soldering of the pipe set . The solder and flux that I use suitable for this job. Thank you .

As you probably know compared to other refrigerants R290 has a very low G.W.P, and as long as all manufacturers instructions are adhered to there will be no problems . Thank you .

nick you aint got a clue 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😅😅😅

Hi Yes the pipe s are really better going out of the rear of the unit . I'm not sure there would be a great efficient benefit from vacuuming the pipe set down as apposed to just releasing the refrigerant straight into the pipe set. The only reason I vacuum down is to ensure there are no leaks . Thank you .

Hi As long as Manufactures instructions are followed there is no danger. All pipe work and associated fittings and valves must be tested before any refrigerant is introduced . Thank you .

​@@HEATSEEKER1428so you carried out a pressure test with oxygen free nitrogen to 1.3 times the maximum working pressure?

i have a gas heater in most of my rooms. each carries a 15kg propane gas bottle 🤣🤣🤣😅😅😅😅😅

you are right when installing units that have a very high G.W.P You need the F_gas registration . However R 290 has a very low GWP. so no F gas required. The manufacturers instructions for these units state that there is no need to vacuum down the pipe set before introducing R290 into the system. Is R290 the future ? Thank you 🙂

you aint got a clue 🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂

HI Sounds ok just remember that condensation comes from out door unit as well , also it will drip when it defrosts. The out door unit is supplied with a drain cock so it the dripping is a problem you could pipe it to a more convenient spot . Thank you and Good luck 👍

Hi Not a silly question at all .I have had thoughts on this my self. I think as long as you fulfil the clearance criteria in the manufacturers instructions and the proposed fitting location is safe you should be ok. Appliances direct sell an all in one unit that can be installed at high or low level . Thank you and good luck 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Thanks for the swift response. I perhaps should have said that my prime objective is heating not cooling. We all know about radiant heat & convection currents etc that affect how comfortable a room might feel, but I wonder if these systems have the room unit high up because of how the heat provided circulates around the room. I'm guessing here, & need to further research the science behind the best positioning of the indoor unit. Maybe it would be draughty if positioned nearer the floor. Anyway, I have another question. What is the maximum temperature rise the unit can provide between the air surrounding the heat pump outside & the unit inside? For example, if on a frosty night the outside air temp' was (say) -7 deg C, what is the highest temperature of the air produced by the unit inside the house? Your energy usage notes were taken in some winter months - did you have any particularly cold nights to assess this?

Hi The manufactures instructions state that the unit is efficient to -5c. the units are designed to heat spaces no larger than a given size. so my understanding is that for every degree below -5 then the targeted inside temp will coincide. i.e If your target temp inside is 24c and the outside air temp is -7c. then inside temp will only reach 22c.. Of course this all depends on insulation levels and if your heat pump is correctly sized. Regarding my experience of heat pumps performance in very cold weather I don't think the COP went much below 4 if at all. I will see if I can find some info. Thank you

Hi This video will be very helpful th-cam.com/video/xD6ZmTYvF4U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XAosoNjR6kJP22js This guy has already done it . Thank you and good luck 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Hello, I have a question about the indoor connection. Did you use compression joints on the inside connections? There is a warning on my unit to use mechanical joints outside and solid joints inside. If you have used the supplied mechanical joint on the inside could you tell us your reasoning. Thank you kindly, Douglas

Hi No I did not use the manipulative compression joints inside the property , as the installation instructions state these type of joints must not be used inside the property or within the thickness of walls or voids. If you are considering joining the pipe work with in a building then you must make the joints with an appropriate material Braze or specialist solder and flux .( not the flux and solder used for general plumbing purposes , ) Specialist soldiers and fluxes are available on line .(its not cheap .). I would not recommend doing this work unless you are very confident and obviously follow all manufactures instructions and test all pipe work and fittings thoroughly. Thank you and Good luck 👍 @@douglasjohn

Hi Here is a link to an existing video showing what you are proposing to do . I hope it is helpful. Thank you . 👍th-cam.com/video/xD6ZmTYvF4U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dD6OmqbEzn12GeYT

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Thank you for your detailed reply. I have another question: How did you check your connections? Did you use your vacuum and then apply soapy liquid after filling, or did you also perform a positive pressure test?

I think you must be mistaken. Appliances direct have the units for sale . There is no requirement for F-gas engineer as the refrigerant is R290. Thank you .

@@HEATSEEKER1428I’ve been researching heating alternatives for a house with no gas supply - that’s how I discovered. REFCOM reported Buy It Direct to the Environment Agency, who sued. Jan 2024. The units are still for sale, but cannot be bought without evidence that they will be installed by a registered engineer. I’m now looking at the monobloc type that are hermetically sealed & still DIY

@@HEATSEEKER1428 i just went to order one from Appliances Direct and they will not release the order until you have supplied a certificate number of a F-Gas qualified engineer

@@jaykilby458 you tried to order a different one. they are not all the same 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Hi yes this is the environmental friendly gas version with a very low G.D.P. ( Global warming potential ) Thank you. 👍

The indoor unit is the only one that's plugged into the wall. The black cable connects the outdoor unit (the condenser) to the indoor one.

Hi the 3 pin plug is the supply to both units via . the indoor unit . This is the only power input and simplify's the installation. .No need for complicated external switches . Thank you .👍

Hi I think if you read the specifications on the unit it says that your pipe set can be up to 12 meters . PLEASE CHECK THIS.👍 . If you are not exceeding the specified max distance then you should not have to add more refrigerant. Thank you . Good luck

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Thanks for your advice

HI To Box the piping in I just used a strip of 5mm MDF. Using some door stop timber as a support / ground.. I am not a carpenter so terminology might not be correct. I worked out what my widest point was and the bought the smallest sheet possible to fulfil my needs and then got B & Q to cut it into strips. I used this thin material because I wanted the boxing to take up as little space as possible . Thank You and good luck with your installation 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Thank you for the info. Think I have the exact same unit as this vid so will be interesting to see how it goes!

Hi The best way to check is with the app on your phone , I have checked on my appliance and the grey "block" on my unit is solid. . no holes but when I select clean on the app the unit starts up , I assume on clean mode which must be ionisation. Having said that you are right the instructions are a bit vague . Perhaps try giving the tech help line a cll with serial numbers to double check. But as my unit starts up on clean mode II can only assume that it does ionise. Thank you and good luck👍

Hi Not vacuuming the pipe set probably will not make a lot of difference to the performance of the unit . as long as you don't leave open ends for long amount of time . Be sure to check the pipe set and connections for leaks before letting full pressure into whole system .. Thank you and good luck 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 Hi, I'm wondering how you did the connections for the indoor unit to the piping? There's like 2 plastic bits on the indoor units piping, and I soon as I loosen it a tiny bit, it sounds like gas is coming out. There doesn't seem to be a valve like system to stop the gas?

@@loshan1212 Hi It is no problem removing the plastic bits on the connections of the indoor unit. they are under pressure weather it be positive or negative, It is just how the manufacturers have shipped them fully tested. That hissing sound you hear is a good thing. I would try not to remove plastic plugs on the indoor unit until you are ready to make the connection. To prevent any dirt or moisture entering the pipe work. Obviously follow instructions when connecting to the out door unit, Thank you . and good luck 👍

Hi The manufactures instructions don't indicate there are any negatives if you don't vacuum down the pipe set. I would just take a lot of care making sure all of the pipe work and joints are sound . Follow the instructions and you can't go far wrong . Thank you. and good luck 👍

Hi The mini split systems That I have installed in my video's Are Made or badged by a company called Electriq .The refrigerant is R290 so no F gas registration required . Thank you. and good luck 👍

Hi I don.t think you will be disappointed you have purchased great product. Good luck👍

Hi You won't be disappointed these heat pumps are reasonably priced ,easy to install and very economical to run . thank you and good luck 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 yep it’s on my job list- only daunting bit is core drilling the 63mm hole through the wall 😵‍💫

@@Umski Hi good luck . I have to say I found 6 3mm a bit tight if you are buying the core bit especially you could go a bit larger . Thank you 👍

@@HEATSEEKER1428 thanks for the tip - 65mm looks like the closest one, though it does feel a bit annoying spending £45 on the bit and extension just to cut one hole, so I'm trying to find someone who might have one to borrow nearby!

Hi You are right there is no need to vacuum down the pipe set . The instructions go through this procedure. Regarding the cooling capability's I have only tried it briefly . According to the manufacturers in the unit is more efficient in cooling mode , so I don't think you will have any problems . Thank you and good luck 👍