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I was impressed with your presentation. However, when I checked the motors on my old saws, none of them listed a PF or Efficiency. Subsequent searches on the internet led me down a rabbit hole which took me all night to climb out of. Is there a method available to obtain the capacitor sizing? My motors are 3/4 and 1Hp Marathon Electric 120/240.

Excellent presentation young man.

those were built to last forever

This is the best channel I find it. thank a lot for your demonstration you are a very good teacher. I must give you 👍to all your video. Best regards

thank a lot teacher

Not a calculator program to input the variables to give you the capacitor answer?

Really enjoyed your video but because we are billed by KW and not amps do we really save any money? After PF correction do we still use the same kW?

Hi there! Now when I re-watched this, I realized there is something I'm missing : shouldn't TIP be voltage times FLA ? The final current draw, post-correction, is compared to FLA, but FLA appears nowwhere in the initial input calculations.

Great video! A lot of good useful information you can apply.

Is this taught in school to students training to be electricians and HVAC technicians or is this only taught to students studying to get a bachelor's degree in electrical engineering?

Old fridge compressor need about 40uF parallel to bring amperage down to a PF=1.

Your video not for everyone sir. Keep make video. I want more knowledge.

Smart meters and analog meters charge extra for poor power factor, a parallel cap can save MONEY men. They are not true watt meters but just VA meters!

Professor you just calculate the loss of power, how can you at the end does not feel it, this could be perjuice of investigator?

This is a very nice explanation of the capacitor value calculation, but it is misleading with respect to savings. In the USA, utility companies only bill small consumers for actual power, not apparent power.. Small consumers save nothing by power factor compensation, but they can free up circuit capacity. Large consumers have a more complicated billing structure that may include some charge for low power factor. I suspect the same is true in Canada and in other parts of the world. There is no cost to utilities to produce reactive power, but it does reduce their capacity and and the transmission losses have a cost. Utilities may install power factor compensation in substations and even on poles to reduce the transmission and capacity losses.

You can't really determine the cap value from nameplate numbers. It is a function of motor loading. You put caps on & vary cap & note the current & go for minimum. You save nothing as far as utility is concerned. Home power is charged based on real power, not reactive power. The only "saving" is less current in your home's wiring. This would be useful only if heavy load is on the edge of tripping breaker. The cap you are using looks like "motor starting cap". These are AC nonpolarized caps designed for use a few seconds at a time only! You need AC oil caps if you plan on running the load for any significant period of time. They are large for the microfarads you get! You also need to deal with the surge on turn-on. This will tear up the appliance's on-off switch. A better thing to do with this motor (assuming it has either starting cap internally, in the bulge on the motor's top, or it is split-phase start, both with centrifugal switch cutout) is to put an AC cap on the "starting" winding permanently (smaller than the starting cap) sized to balance the 2 phases in the motor internally WHEN RUNNING. This will make the motor run cooler & consume less real power, & will reduce vibration.

This is the best PF i have ever seen. Thank you very much. Im working on a project and ive been looking for a video to properly explain this to me.

Would be nice to also clamp an ampmeter on the black capacitor wire to show the reactive current. And a killawatt device on the input to demonstrate an improved power factor.

I'm learning about PF correction online..you sir are the best teacher I have come across!!! That was excellent explanation of exactly how power factor works that it was so much easier to understand than my course I'm doing at the moment! Subbed and liked 👍 thank you so much and cheers from Australia 👍

Very nice explanation, thanks for give us your important time …

I think your Watt meter only recognizes active power not reactive power . Correct me if I’m wrong.

One of the best no nonsense education videos I’ve seen!

very good info for off grid Battery, solar. every amp counts

Why didn't the manufacturer do it for the consumer by putting in the right capacitor ?

Great explanation! How would one go about calculating a power factor adjustment on a variable speed pump for example.

What brands and types of capacitor should I use on an old 1940s transformer welder? There is no markings on the capacitor. The equipment plate has these specs, Primary volts, 230v 60hz, max 37 amps, output 180amps max at 25v, OCV 52v-65v, F.L.P.F. 75%.

Hello from Jamaica. Do you teach classes on this?

My foreman just dropped a transformer on its side today. I’ll look like a hero when I test it tomorrow haha thank you.

Thank you so much! I went along with your lesson and built a spreadsheet to do the calculations at the same time. I have a much better understanding and greatly appreciate the time you put into the video! Well done!

I’m an apprentice lineman and we’re going over magnetism currently. This helped me so much. Thank you sir!

I’m an apprentice lineman and we’re going over magnetism currently. This helped me so much. Thank you sir!

Thank you! Great instruction!

As asked by Muhammad 1year ago. Why are motors produced with this inefficiency in them? Are the motors with two capacitors on them corrected already. Im nowhere near a electrician just always trying to learn a bit of something. Thanks for the lesson.

What I wonder is if the harmonic distortion (I) has any consequence in maintaining the magnetic field in the motor coils. I want to think it's meaningless compared to correcting PF.

Thank you for this! (I'll be back soon for 3Ph classes 🙂) Meanwhile, I have a diaphragm (inductive load) pond air-pump that at 120.8v meters at 78w (claimed) and 1.58a (claimed), but it didn't make sense to me. I have some homework to do and a plan. And now I can imagine how makers size run caps for CSCR vs CSIR motors. That said, It seems that any CSIR ought to be checked out.

Excellent video first and foremost! Incredibly helpful and easy to follow along! Quick question for you though. After solving for the proper capacitor for the PF correction, you came up with the 82.xx mfd capacitor. I noticed that the capacitor you selected from the HVAC distributor was a plastic body capacitor. Normally in my trade (HVACR) the plastic body capacitors are used in the starting circuit applications and the metal body capacitors are used in the run circuit applications. I'm curious and would like to know if it would make a difference (if any at all) if A: there was a specific reason as to why you used a start capacitor style or B: could you use a run capacitor in lieu of a start capacitor so long as the mfd and voltage rating were matching?

You really haven’t done anything, you should have checked the amps with the bell on and put the machine under load. You could’ve lost those amps just by taking the belt off and reducing the drag. Sounds like bullshit to me

thank you sir... wondering why the power factor capasitor does not come with the motor when you purchase the equipment.

Deserved my sub! May i know what type of capacitor used in this video?

greetings from the Philippines

is it as strong?

Super helpful. Great video

Very nice explanation and really big difference after improving pf what about 3 phase motors is there any difference or only use 3 capacitors of the single phase case thanks

Hi, ive got a 300v 3phase motor and I'm trying to put an encoder on it. Part of calibrating the encoder is I'm suppose to lock the motor and then set the encoder to zero. How do I know what's a safe voltage and current i can connect to the phase 1 and phase 2 wires without burning the windings up but will rotate and lock the rotor to the zero position? Thanks

It would be interesting to know the value of the original capacitor, I assume it was lower than your computed preferred capacity. Also, your HVAC or electronics guy could test a few of the 20% tolerance units and help you hit your target capacitance. I agree with other comment that raised efficiency should prolong motor life, etc.

Dear Serge, How many microfarads of capacitor do I have to use for 10A 270V active load ? I am trying to power my 2500w boiler with DC direct from PV panels. I destroyed 2 SSR relays so far. The relays are raited for 40A 400V DC. Nevertheless, they burned. I have no explanation why it happened. I planned to use 60A 600V SSR relay with IGBT transistor inside. I found this video, and I am hopeful that the capacitor will do the trick of sprakless switching off the circuit.

Need to add that lower current means lower heat generated. Therefore, all heat exacerbated aging is slowed. Also, less heat generated in large industrial shops where there are more machines, therefore summer workspace cooling requirements are reduced.

Question? Why don’t manufacturers put the right capacitance in to begin with? Is it cost? Is this why some motors have two capacitors?

If the motor is only 54 percet etc efficient then it wonter matter what the va is because it can never give more than 54 percent etc, that means if we want the real power which in this case would be 95 percent efficient that means we will have to buy a motor with a bigger va ha ha ha ha....

Thank you for the video.... I already subscribe...