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Farmall Parts Exchange
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2012
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Farmall 300 Hydraulic Pump seal replacement
มุมมอง 68หลายเดือนก่อน
Farmall 300 Hydraulic Pump seal replacement
Farmall 300 rebuild continues (part 3)
มุมมอง 1662 หลายเดือนก่อน
Farmall 300 rebuild continues (part 3)
Tractor tire/rim breakdown ( field expedient)
มุมมอง 46ปีที่แล้ว
Tractor tire/rim breakdown ( field expedient)
Farmall Parts Exchange Intro Video part 2
มุมมอง 872 ปีที่แล้ว
Farmall Parts Exchange Intro Video part 2
Dad had a 300 in the late 60s, it had a loader, not sure what brand anymore and he built a cab for it out of plywood and angle iron. Moved a lot of snow with that thing for the city and others in the day. Boy I thought that was a big tractor back then!! Glad to see you still have this one running and are taking care of it...
Thanks for sharing
My dad & I just installed an M&W 202PX pump on his Farmall H loader tractor. This video was useful just to make sure we didn't ruin anything removing the drive flange. I had to apply pressure to the flange and lightly buzz the drill center in the pump shaft with a small air hammer to get it off. I couldn't find any information on different magneto/distributor drive setups behind these pumps, but for some reason the pump distributor drive was an 1/8" shallower than the stock drive for the H4 magneto. The housings would mount up, but the magneto impulse dogs did not reach the output of the pump. Once the drive flange was off the pump, I was able to make a .11" spacer (and left out the c-clip) to put behind the pump output flange to space it out. The stock magneto and distributer just barely fits. We had to put the #4 plug wire on the distributor cap with it unmounted, then wiggle the cap & rotor as a unit onto the distributor body (routing a couple wires behind the oil filter housing) before clipping in the rest of the wires. We're probably going to hunt down some low profile 90degree spark plug boots to minimize the rubbing on the filter housing.
The overrunning adapter were to buy and it’s make model size and such would be helpful. My wife and I just inherited her dads Farmall 55 300 bought brand new by her grandfather and a 53 sh he bought around 20yr ago while he was doing some work on 300. I was thinking of using the sh for brush hogging over the 300 any thoughts and info would be helpful
With the Farmall 300, the chances are very high ( though not 100%) that you already have a live pto and wouldn't need an over running adaptor.
Great information thx I was in the navy subs and had several of those pucker factor moments😂
Glad to see shes coming along! I gotta get back on mine.
Good day from Ontario What is difference brween A neighbour who tractor pulls & he said 400 jet gives more power than sw-6 Thanks
I've had a 300 for 15 years or so and it quickly became my favorite. I love the little thing. Fast hitch, power steering, fenders. Whenever I square bale it's on there!
Good day from Ontario Yes they were nice tractor Why r u going to put 300 engine in W-4 Yrs ago we had SW-6 without lpto, boy o boy trying to sq bale was hard 1st gear was too fast heavy rows, buggar, we actually bought Allis Wd with allis loader to bale, dealer put rebuilt trans in & it would jump out of 1st gear going down hill, dangerous especially when wagon was behind & 2 loaders on it. Thanks for now
That engine in the floor is from an H. Im saving it for a W4 if I ever find a bad one.
Thanks for the info. Good explanation.
Your video is very helpful, thanks. I've recently acquired one of these set ups. I couldn't find a brand or any info on it. I'd like to rebuild or reseal it before putting it on my M. Can you tell me about the drive/orbital motor? How simple is it's internals? Is it o-rings that seal it or some special seals inside?
Could you tell us the seal number.?
Chicago Rawhide number 12424 M1, or MI. I can't make out the character after the M. I actually bought a replacement seal at Orilieys.
@@farmallerfa Thank you so much. That's very helpful.
I really like your videos. I recently installed live hydraulics on my super M and was told I should upgrade the camshaft gear. Is this true and what model gear should I look for?
If you can find one it would be advisable. I've never done it, but people smarter than me highly recommend it.
I really like your videos. I recently installed live hydraulics on my super M and was told I should upgrade the camshaft gear. Is this true and what model gear should I look for?
I really like your videos. I recently installed live hydraulics on my super M and was told I should upgrade the camshaft gear. Is this true and what model gear should I look for?
Boy I am very jealous I hope one day to find a Super M like that but I would also want the live pump off the distributor to run a dual or Farm hand loader! But I hope I don’t retire before I find one ! Enjoyed the video keep that old iron running 😀🇨🇦
well you gonna keep what i want frnt cover igonna change my h to live hyd
I put live hydraulics on my H with the original cover. The M&W pump had an adapter
the 300 series has heavier timing gears and then i can put ih pump on those like you have are hard to come by @@farmallerfa
Is block any good
The engine is fully seized and been sitting open to the elements, with no head for years.
Thanks for the insight, will be useful for my project 👍 how did you refasten the lead and cable or do you use loc tite to keep from backing out? Thank you again
I'm sorry, I don't follow about the "lead and cable".
@@farmallerfa when you pulled out the shaft you had 2 bolts connected by a small cable with a lead seal holding the cap for the inside bearing to the shaft. Is that a tamper proof seal like they had on the original governors of the farmall H. Or is the cable to keep the 2 bolts from backing out.
There was no lead seal. It was just wire run through the two bolt heads twisted after tightening.
You sound like Jerry Reed
For a loader, mount a sprocket on the crank shaft for #60 roler chain and mount a hydraulic pump on the outside of the frame rail. A good pump will have about 3000 psi and 24-30 gpm flow. That will handle any size loader that the tractor will fit.
Excellent video
very nice super H , I was just looking at a stage 1 in classified adds . had a really nice 3 point too. was or still going for $2200. Wish I would of held off on some regular H buys . So two 1100 dollar H's equal 1 super H stage 1
Thank you for the video, do you think that pulley is strong enough to power a larger pump like for a loader?
Good question. My best answer would be that it would depend on the pump. My father in law ran a small lift on a A Farmall with nothing more than a powersteering pump.
@@farmallerfa ok thank you I might have to try it, you said need to shim the fan ahead for the pulley?
@@timothykoller5210 if you don't shim the fan away from the waterpump, the blades will hit up against the new pump
Love this video and your other videos. Very helpful with my SMTA.
nice tractor. would love to own a 53 or 54. but I'm want one as original as possible. do not nee a 3 point as it would just be driven a hour a day just for fun. no more work for it.
I found that this kind of setup becomes unstable once the lift carriage goes above the top link so keep that in mind.
Very informative. Thanks.
I wanted to correct something I said during the video. The Super H and M have disk type brakes, not band typ as in the H and M. I realized I had said that about 3/4 of the way through shooting the video, and decided to correct it here instead of putting everything back together and reshooting.
Something that I failed to mention during this video is that the fan will have to be moved (shimmed) forward in order to clear the pump pully. Some kits have add on collars, but in other cases you will need to cut some heavy tubing, or other type of spacing device for each fan bolt.
I have a 1940 H an the bottom radiator hose is like yours that some previous owner put on an its kinda dry rotted so i got the tube an the connecting hose pieces an will install when i get a new radiator you have a good video look forward for more to come thanks for sharing your collection